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Intermittent ACC 2019 Kodiaq L&K

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Hi everyone.

 

Every so often my ACC is just not available; no little indicators on the dash and no reaction to its control stalk.

 

It seems to be on the first use of the day, so I was wondering if it was being affected by battery condition. I had that checked today and it’s at 71%, which the guy from Halfrauds said was ok.
 

I’ve only had the car a couple of weeks and it’s going back to the dealer to be checked but they can’t fit me in until end February!

 

Does anyone have any ideas or similar experiences? 
 

Thanks for looking.

 

Graham

I've had the same thing on my 2020 L&K 2 or 3 times. Don't know why it happens, but stopping the car and starting it again cures it.

 

  • Author

Thanks Alan. Sounds exactly the same thing!

 

If I get an answer from the dealer, I’ll post it here so you can see it.

 

Cheers!

I have assumed it is just a computer glitch. All computers experience them for who knows whatever reason. I have worked with computers, and sometimes they just glitch. Often caused by power fluctuations. As it is quite a rare event in my car, I am happy just to restart it.

  • Author

Thanks Alan.

 

 I’m pretty convinced it’s a voltage thing. Like you say, probably just a glitch!

 

cheers!

I have just had the same issue as you, first thing in a morning, restart after 5 minutes and it would all be OK again - and my horn also stopped working at the same time. New battery solved it.

 

After reading some other people's issue with the horn not working, and suggestions that it is related to the battery, I recalled my a comment from my service last November that the battery had 'failed' the dealer checks. I thought nothing more of it since the car was starting fine, even on frosty mornings. Last week I charged my battery over night to test the horn theory, and for the next 3/4 days I had no issues. Bought a new battery and fitted Saturday and so far it's not skipped a beat!

  • Author

Thanks Mark

 

Yes, that’s exactly it! I’ve narrowed it down to first thing in the morning. I also briefly saw a message saying that ACC was disabled. After turning off and on again it’s fine. Not tried the horn…

 

If I hadn’t had the car for such a short time, I’d go for a battery replacement myself but as it came from an Approved dealer as an Approved Vehicle, I’m hoping they will go down that route for me at their expense. I’m sure it’s a battery condition thing…

 

Thanks for dropping by and adding to the story!

 

Cheers

 

Graham

Seems to be a common issue on them all from reading other very similar topics/threads/posts, it tends to happen when the car has been sat for a fair while so might just be voltage related. ACC and horn will both not work until the car is restarted. might be worth cycling the power once before starting if you've left it sat for a while. mine did it the day i collected from the dealer after it had been sat for a week, not done it since but i drive a fair distance every day for work.

  • Author

Hi Tom
 

Many thanks for that! A picture is emerging! I will try it tomorrow and if the ACC doesn’t come on, I’ll see if the horn is also not working.

 

Looks like I’ll have some useful feedack for the main dealer when it goes back!

 

Appreciate you joining this thread and adding to the story.

 

Cheers Buddy!

 

Graham

  • Author

So, same issue this morning and I tried the horn, too. Geuss what - it didn’t work, as per others’ experiences!

 

What a strange little glitch! I’m sure the dealer will learn something here!

 

Cheers!

 

G

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Author

Ok, an update!

 

From the dealer: when the battery goes below 80% charge, the vehicle automatically turns off comfort settings and goes into protective mode, disabling the ACC. My battery was at 70%.

 

the dealer fitted a new battery and all is well!

 

Cheers!

I now have something like this too; the car is struggling to start in negative ambient, and then it turns off ACC. Guess it's time for a new battery...

  • Author

Sounds that way! Good luck and I hope a new battery sorts it, like it did on mine.

All the best!

  • 2 weeks later...

How much is a new battery and what's a good brand to get? Mines doing the same thing particularly after a frosty night, been wondering what was going and and yes restarting did cure it.

  • Author

Hi Mike. Glad you have an answer now!

The dealer provided the battery under warranty, so I’m afraid I don’t know how much it cost. I would go for the battery with the best warranty if it were me. I’m sure others here will have opinions on the best brands…

Best of luck!

1 hour ago, MikeH01 said:

How much is a new battery and what's a good brand to get? Mines doing the same thing particularly after a frosty night, been wondering what was going and and yes restarting did cure it.

First make sure, what battery type you have. AGM or EFB.

Probably AGM though.

The original one is usually Varta.

Do not forget to recode the car after swapping the battery, otherwise the charging could be problematic.

Suggest to buy your own battery and get it changed at dealers. Unless you own a VCDS.

New battery should be around 120 - 150 eur. 110 quit about in average.

I had my AGM one in the Superb changed and coded in for around €300 total. That was back in the depths of -35C last winter, so it was the only one on the shelf (and €240). I expect the Kodiaq one (which has really died now, unless someone can recondition using a ctek or so) to be cheaper. Tudor was the last one, I'd expect an Exide one this time, and they're on the shelf in the local store for €180. That's an AGM. 242x175x190mm, around 60Ah.

Just changed this year, Exide Start-Stop AGM 72Ah 760A 135 EUR.

But the accu center coded all wrong, the battery charging was abnormal. Even after long ride battery showed 12,3 V. AGM should be 12,8.

Weird was, that even my coding done by VCDS did not work.

Skoda dealership recoded it and now everything is ok.

  • Author

Hi linni

Until this thread I had no idea that the vehicle required coding after a battery change. You learn something new every day!

Cheers!

there's a control module for electronics and it controls the voltage and current used to charge the battery. AGM needs higher voltage than standard batteries, for example.

Mine was replaced today, let's see if that's cured the EGR issue or if there's loadsamoney involved... 🤔

garage swapped the battery. coded it. Checked the EGR - still sealed, and then ran the adaptations - and a test run appears to be fine. So maybe this is another thing to add to the list: if your battery is low, your EGR may also start to play up...

i will probably take the car down to Helsinki Thursday, let's see how that goes.

  • Author

Good to hear! Thanks for adding to the story!

Have a good trip to Helsinki!

Cheers!

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