It all started in another topic.

 

The front suspension has very little movement space before it hits the buffer with a loud bang.

Even small irregularities on the surface of the asphalt could make front go BANG.

 

 

I've decided to find a solution to this issue I'm having for years.

 

Also, I wasn't content with the condition of the front suspension and all undercarriage and also the steering. I've used this opportunity to check it all.

 

It ended up big and I've found some scary and lethal issues by surprise.

 

Here is the story:

 

First, I've discovered this:

 

https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x9drh9e

 

Also the inner ball joint:

 

https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x9drihw

 

The rack has vertical play on the left side too. Needs nylon bushing replacement.

 

I've removed and checked it on the bench for judging it better.

 

 

Side to side movement is not smooth.

There is a dip around middle.

 

So, there is no point keeping this rack or trying to fix it.

 

- I've also discovered that the left swing arm rear bush was worn.

- Both swing arms had signs of wear. So it is a good idea to replace them together.

 

 

- After the advice of @Papez , I've searched for Felicia 1.6 specific damper and springs but couldn't find any locally.

Local sellers don't recognize the difference. They are usually offering one standard damper and one standard type spring for all variations of Fav. and Fel.

 

I've removed and measured the spring I currently have. It is around 35cm and 12.8mm core thickness. Standard Fav. spring. The shape and height OK. No need to change.

I've cleaned and lubricated the strut bearings.

I've found Sachs 100667 and bought them.

 

 

The spring plates were in trash condition too.

 

 

I don't have a lift or a trench.

I work on the ground.

 

 

https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x9drmfs

 

Removing the main bolts are easy but there is one small nut nearby. Which is a real pain in the a** to remove it.

It took 30 minutes to remove just one M6 nut.

 

 

https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x9drn7g

 

In the end,

I ended up replacing:

Both swing arms, dampers, damper stops, dust covers, strut rubber bushes, spring plates, strut mounting plates, whole steering rack and steering rack clamp rubber bushes.

 

It wasn't a smooth work.

I've encountered many obstacles and problems during the work. Some of the problems were unrelated to work. I had to remove dismantle and reinstall the struts 3 times and the steering rack two times because of disruptions which ended up immediate use of the car.

 

But even without disruptions, this is not easy work. Especially in winter and below zero conditions.

 

https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x9drnl8

 

So what was the lethal issues were you talking about? You ask. Right. OK.

 

This time, I'll leave the rest of the pictures.

 

You tell me the whole story.

 

 

 

 

Edited 8 February, 20251 yr by R_Blue

Top hat cracked no no that cant be its metal fatigue, it shouldn't happen to steel

1 minute ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Top hat cracked no no that cant be its metal fatigue, it shouldn't happen to steel

But why?

There is a reason. It's in the last pictures.

I mean there is rust yeah but still

Just now, Thefeliciahacker said:

I mean there is rust yeah but still

Let the other members try and chain the links together.

I see something, vehicle was driven for a very long time with a collapsed top mount bush. This means that every shock loading directly affected the steel top hat. 

Edited 8 February, 20251 yr by Thefeliciahacker

1 hour ago, R_Blue said:

I've decided to find a solution to this issue I'm having for years.

 

I wonder how you could drive this way for so long?

It was a matter of time that a bad thing will bring a second and as a chain reaction the disaster will come Inevitably.

 

Sachs are good for normal driving.

I have changed my Top Mount when i had my previous Koni in 3rd scale and i replace them again after the refurbish work.

 

Here is the root cause of the problem.

I don't blame anyone for something deteriorated to the point of being unrecognizable.

 

 

This is a €3 part. Called "bump stop" or "helper spring" or "shock absorber rubber stop".

 

In the pictures above you can trace its ruined remains.

10cm part reduced to 1cm.

 

The front shocks were bottoming out in every excessive force. Resulting accelerated shock absorber wear. Every time the shock absorbers had bottomed out, it sent shock waves to the chassis. Resulting the top mount to get cracked.

 

11 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

I wonder how you could drive this way for so long?

When I bought the car 4 years ago, all of the suspension items were shining new. Including the axles.

This issue with suspension was present from day 1. So I've thought, this was an old car with very soft suspension. It must be normal to be louder than other cars when the front suspension bottoms.

Compared to modern cars, everything is noisier after all.

I haven't driven another Favorit too.

It seems, either the previous owner had tried to save on this part ( €6 ? I don' think so) or they had an argument with the mechanic about the price and the mechanic had sabotaged the work by not installing the new bump stops.

If you look carefully one of the ruined remains had been installed reverse!

 

I have adapted a keen driving style to watch irregularities on the road to avoid bottoming out the suspension. I also memorize all potholes  low manhole hatches. Maybe once in a month, one side bottomed out.

Sometimes you can't avoid the big irregularities, you know. Especially when chasing a car in front of you. It suddenly appears. I think one of that occurrences had caused this crack to happen.

 

11 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

It was a matter of time that a bad thing will bring a second and as a chain reaction the disaster will come Inevitably.

Yes. Exactly.

I'm glad my a** got frozen on the ground. %100 percent worth it.

 

Disaster averted.

Thanks to @nta16 and @Papez.

 

11 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Sachs are good for normal driving.

I have changed my Top Mount when i had my previous Koni in 3rd scale and i replace them again after the refurbish work.

 

My first choice was air shocks from Veka.(Not Vika! ) But one of them was leaked in its box. I returned both.

 

So lesson from this story:

Don't trust. Check everything. Every little detail.

 

Check your bump stops.

 

 

If they are destroyed or crushed that can lead to serious damage.

 

 

6U9412303

115450330

are the part codes, here has 3-4 euros.

 

2 hours ago, R_Blue said:

Don't trust. Check everything. Every little detail.

 

It's nice that you have the knowledge and the space to work, for sure i can not do that kind of repairs lying down in the street so every time i visit a repair-shop and the car is lifted-up i ask from the mechanic to make an inspection to wheels-suspension-steering rack-ball joint etc and very often i make a visual check on the CV gaiters.

I don't think its the bump stop.
Not to mention the dampers have internal soft stops and possibly the spring would bind up. Frequently bottoming out is not probable either.

The problem lies somewhere else

25 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

It's nice that you have the knowledge and the space to work, for sure i can not do that kind of repairs lying down in the street so every time i visit a repair-shop and the car is lifted-up i ask from the mechanic to make an inspection to wheels-suspension-steering rack-ball joint etc and very often i make a visual check on the CV gaiters.

I wish I had a closed private garage. I'm working exposed to the weather as you do.

 

If you have a trusted mechanic and enough money to pay, I'm sure they'll spot any sign of wear and tear.

For the most basic checks, like you've said,

30 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

an inspection to wheels-suspension-steering rack-ball joint etc

They are asking money. Naturally.

 

57 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

and very often i make a visual check on the CV gaiters.

Regularly checking the CV boots is a good practice. As soon as one spots cracks, it must be replaced.

 

14 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Not to mention the dampers have internal soft stops

They don't have any.

The old ones are in the house. They don't have such internal soft stops nor the ones I've installed.

 

 

I don't think the bumpstop was the root case, more likely it's a symptom. Dampers shouldn't bottom out regularly, the fact that they aren't extended on your photos may suggest they were far from the best condition.

21 minutes ago, Papez said:

I don't think the bumpstop was the root case, more likely it's a symptom. Dampers shouldn't bottom out regularly, the fact that they aren't extended on your photos may suggest they were far from the best condition.

Imagine you are in a left turn. Front right suspension fully collapsed. You see a patch on the asphalt. There is about 0.5-1cm of surface difference. When the right wheel hits it, you hear a metallic BANG. Same for the opposite side.

That was happening all the time.

I have no other explanation.

1 hour ago, R_Blue said:

Imagine you are in a left turn. Front right suspension fully collapsed. You see a patch on the asphalt. There is about 0.5-1cm of surface difference. When the right wheel hits it, you hear a metallic BANG. Same for the opposite side.

That was happening all the time.

I have no other explanation.

In fact our vehicles have a lot of travel and can go so low that you almost scrape the oil pan

Edited 9 February, 20251 yr by Thefeliciahacker

For anyone who want to do this work at home,

 

Other than standard tools, (Socket wrenches, open ended wrenches, adjustable wrench, pliers, screw drivers etc)

You need specialized tools:

 

- To be able to separate the knuckle from the shock absorber, you need a 1.5 or 2kg hammer with a short handle. Otherwise, you won't be able to remove the suspension assembly.

- You need a good quality, safe, spring compressor kit.

- You need jack stands.

- You need a trolley jack or a bottle jack to be able to push the knuckle back into the shock absorber.

- Balljoint separator is a must have if you don't like to go bang-bang-bang on the knuckle ring. (Deteriorates it too)

- For rusty and stuck bolts and nuts you need an impact wrench. I advise compact rechargeable models. I have AC corded one. Powerful but heavy and big. I can't use it everywhere. Pneumatic  is good too but it needs investment into an air compressor and some accessories of it.

- A breaker bar with 1/2" socket size minimum.

- Long pry bar for pressing down on the track rod ends while tightening it down. (You get leverage from subframe mounting place)

- Rubber hammer at least 600gr. (You use it on new parts when some concussion force needed without damaging the paint or causing dents)

 

Replacing the swing arms is hard because of the position.

Remove the track rod end balljoint, remove the lower balljoint. Remove the bolts securing rear bush clamp of the swing arm. To be able to remove the little nut, you must either pry the subframe and insert an open ended wrench to be able to hold the bolt or, try to pry the clamp itself with one hand with a flat big screw driver and while doing that, your other hand ready with the impact wrench on the nut. I cleaned the bolts' exposed threads with wire brush using dremel before making the attempt to remove. There was anti-gravel paint covering on the threads. After removing the clamp, finally you can remove third connection which is a rotating bush. The nut will come off but don't expect to remove the bolt easily. It's friction pressed. It can only be removed and reinstalled by hammering. Don't damage its threads.

 

Reinstalling is the reverse of removal. But you have to use your jack again to be able to push the clamp on to the rubber bush. Watch out for the small bolt while rising the jack though. You don't want to break or bend the bolt. Make sure it is positioned well into its hole on the clamp.

 

Removal of the suspension assembly:

Remove track rod end balljoint. Remove the nut securing the shock absorber from below. Use a heavy 1.5-2kg hammer to hammer down the knuckle. Use penetrating oil to ease up the process. As the knuckle lowers down be careful not to drop the wheel hub suddenly. The brake line might get damaged. So hold the wheel hub and place something under it after the total removal of the shock absorber.

To be able to remove the suspension assembly from the car now, you must remove the two nuts from the strut tower. Don't try to remove the big nut on the center!. Hold the strut assembly by your hand and lift it while removing the nuts from above. This way you will prevent stripping the threads.

 

After removing it from the car, lay it down, use your spring compressors to be able to remove the nut on the top which holds all parts together. The spring force is severe. Use the spring compressor wisely. Clamp it secure and tighten it equally in pairs. When a spring is compressed, it is a loaded and deadly weapon. Don't forget that.

One of the most important detail about the removal and reinstalling of the top nut is the  requirement of holding the shock absorber shaft while trying to turn the nut. Don't turn the shaft with the nut. Normally you do it from the tip of the shaft using a proper sized wrench or adjustable wrench.

I couldn't remove one of it and I had to hold the shaft from inside with big pliers and used impact wrench on the nut. You can do this if you are not planning to reuse the shock absorber but if you are planning to use it, whatever you do, don't scratch the shaft surface. It will damage the seal inside and the shock absorber will leak, rendering it useless. Maybe one can hold it with soft buffers placed between the tool and the shaft.

 

Check all parts.  Replace the rusty or worn or damaged ones.

Strut bearings may be reusable. You can split them open and check inside. There are small steel balls inside which are free without a cage. So don't drop them. If there is not severe damage, clean, grease and reuse the bearings.

Decompress the spring carefully and see its shape in free form. If it looks warped, replace it. If it has excessive rust, replace it. Check for splintered, cracked areas. If you see any, replace it.

Measure the height.

356mm (with 12.6mm core thickness) for Favorit and Forman

340mm (with 14mm core thickness) for Light 1.3 Felicia.

356mm (with 14mm core thickness) for heavy equipped 1.3 and 1.6 felicia

(I couldn't find info about the 1.9 at the time of this topic. So, sorry if you are looking for that)

 

If your spring is collapsed beyond standard measurements, replace it. Otherwise, you can continue to use your springs.

 

 

No: 23 is the top rubber bush. I'd replace it every time. You will find it crushed %99 guaranteed.

 

Reinstalling is the reverse of removal.

Hang the assembly on the strut tower with the two nuts. Hold it and press it up tightly beneath while reinstalling the nuts. Otherwise you will damage the threads.

Clean and grease the knuckle's interior.

Insert the shock absorber bottom into the knuckle, observing the security tab behind so it is perfectly positioned in the middle of the pinch opening.

Using your bottle jack or the trolley jack, slowly and carefully lift the swing axle. The knuckle will slide and sit on the final position. There is a stop on the tab which will prevent further movement of the knuckle. Also you will see the securing bolt will be lined up with the security tab's recess.

Insert your bolt and nut and tighten it according to the torque spec.

 

Steering rack replacement is not hard if you know what you are doing. (I'm talking about the manual steering of course)

 

Start by removing the negative terminal of the battery.

Remove steering wheel.

Remove the steering column covers.

Remove the control arms to prevent accidental damage.

Remove the bolt from the universal shaft at the bottom.

Remove the steering tube bolts. (4 total) Memorize the order of washers, spacers and rubber bushings on the bolts.

When the steering tube and the shaft is free, carefully maneuver it out of the fascia and remove the ignition switch cables. (Don't forget their positions and colors)

With the whole assembly in your hands, try to pull it gently.

If you are lucky, the universal joint at the bottom will slide off without much effort.

mine was severely stuck.

In this case, this method will save you from having a headache.

There are two universal joints. One at the bottom, one at the steering tube connection.

Give a slight angle to the upper universal joint and use a decent sized hammer, hammer it upwards from the universal joint base while continuing to pull the whole assembly with your other hand.

It will slowly move upwards from the base joint and will be free.

Remove the track rod end balljoints.

Remove the four bolts securing the steering rack.

You can remove the steering rack out of the engine compartment from right side of the car. Through the wheel well. (This is a LHD car.)

 

Reinstalling is the reverse but you must prepare well before installing the rack or it will take a lots of time adjusting it later.

I did a mistake by adjusting the new rack according to the factory data but it was an asymmetrical rack. So I ended up having wrong steering center.

Measure the rack movement on the bench. Mark its center before installing. Make sure it is at dead center before installing.

Install the rack. Use new clamp rubbers if required.

As soon as you finish installing the rack, mark its input shaft position on the bottom plate inside the car. This is important. You must match the steering rack center with the steering tube center of locking. If you accidentally move the steering rack, you can use this mark to regain the position.

Don't install the steering gear inside yet.

Having the wheel hub straight, by your vision, adjust the track rod end ballojoint's position without moving the rack. Adjust the length of the balljoint so they fit into place by not moving the straight position of the hub. Mine new rack is offset so the measurement of balljoint extension is not equal.

Install the road wheels and tighten the bolts slightly without moving the steering rack. Using a level meter, mark two points from the front and rear side of the wheel while referencing a detail on the wheel. Like hub edge. Do the marks on the same height on the other wheel. Using a tape meter, measure the wheel distance from the same tire grooves. One measurement from front. One from rear. We need equal measurement or slight toe in. But this measurement is very rough. Aim for equal measurement. We do this only for the initial run to the nearest computerized alignment shop. My adjustment ended up 0.7 degrees miss in each wheel according to their system.

With the steering lock on, hold the steering tube and steering shaft assembly straight to its mounting place and insert the bottom universal joint carefully. One notch miss and you will end up steering lock not locking straight.

Unfortunately you must demo the setup before full reassembly. So, just insert the bottom universal joint and screw at least the two bolts securing the steering tube. If the bottom side universal joint is not sliding in, use hammer again to hammer it in place.

After securing the steering tube, slide the steering wheel in and demo the setup.

You must achieve side to side perfect mirroring of the steering wheel. If the left stop position of the steering wheel does not fit the mirrored shape of the right, try re inserting the steering wheel while passing a notch to the right or left, which is required.

If you achieve side to side mirroring but you end up road wheels not straight when the steering wheel is straight, too bad. Steering rack is not properly centered. If it's not severe, the wheel alignment shop can true it for you. Otherwise you have to adjust the rack center again, according to the straight position of the steering wheel. You do the adjustments again from the track rod ends to achieve straight wheels.

 

Confusing right?

It took 6 hours for me to adjust the rack center on the car and matching the lock center of the steering tube and reassembling everything back together.

I think it takes practice to make it faster. 

 

 

Edited 9 February, 20251 yr by R_Blue

1 hour ago, R_Blue said:

Balljoint separator is a must have if you don't like to go bang-bang-bang on the knuckle ring.

Nope have done it without a spreader. 

Depends on the space available and angle but the two-hammer method can work, particularly with a second pair of hands on a lever bar if room.  Working of a car from the ground outside is not ideal or fun (or sensible for later in your life).

 

Too late now, but in UK we have places that can make real steel springs for low cost that could outlast the car, they can be made to the size and rate you want or to factory, much better than the factory or replacements, I am surprised you don't have such places, as the UK has lost all it's skills but still has a few of these types of places around.

 

Great to have such a report/guide to such work.

 

I think the dampers must have been in a shocking (pun intended) state possible from when you got the car, as said there is loads of travel for a wheel to hang down a pothole.  You thinking all old cars are slow and do not drive well is common to what others that do not know think which is why I always suggest where possible to try driving as many many good mechanical/electric examples of the same car before buy so that you know how well they could or should go compared to potential purchases.  But life is all about learning and experiences, just that it is less expensive to learn from other people's mistakes, I have about  six lifetimes of them for cars old cars alone. 😆