About to embark on Skoda ownership, Superb L&K Estate

[commievid]

Hi all,

 

Not sure where I should have put this here or just simply made a welcome post.

 

I've been on the lookout for something practical and with a poke, in advance of in laws requiring taxi services later in the year.

 

With no actual practical cars available, the wife and I decided on as big an estate as possible.

 

Our shortlist initially was something like an Octavia VRS Estate, but we've then started looking sideways into things like an E-Class S211 E55 AMG. We tried one over the weekend, but just a few days ago, we saw this:

 

https://www.glencairnmotorcoltd.co.uk/cars/skoda/superb/2.0/1066105/

 

It ticks the petrol, 4x4 and L&K trim boxes. Colour choices be damned.

 

We'll be picking it up over the weekend and then making a day of it.

 

I will assume he will pop the car for an MoT prior to pickup, but the biggest obvious caveat is that this is the first car I've ever bought sight unseen.

 

Once I get her home, I'll maybe then use this thread as a diary of sorts, as I'll be giving her a proper once over servicing wise and then planning updates/upgrades. Whether I'll be brave enough to tally maintenance/upgrade costs, hmm, maybe.

 

MoT history suggests a rough time with the suspension, so that's the first order of business. Find OEM springs and probably B6 DCC dampers (I'm assuming DCC was used in L&K trim).

 

Next update will be the weekend!

[Gizmo]

Welcome, I've moved the post to somewhere more suitable.

Whilst the Bilstein B6 is very impressive it would IMO be a shame to lose the DCC as I really loved it, sporty (for such a big car) when required and uber luxurious (almost boat like!) for when parents are in the car.

 

[MarkyG82]

31 minutes ago, Gizmo said:

Welcome, I've moved the post to somewhere more suitable.

Whilst the Bilstein B6 is very impressive it would IMO be a shame to lose the DCC as I really loved it, sporty (for such a big car) when required and uber luxurious (almost boat like!) for when parents are in the car.

 

 

B6 is available as damptronic which is Bilsteins version of DCC.

[commievid]

Yeah, it's pretty dear, but given the MoT has suggested leaks over the last few years on presumably the standard ones, I am making an assumption that the Bilsteins will be a bit more robust, and they're not much more compared to the B4's.

 

I'm presuming the damptronic will pretty much be equivalent to DCC, probably firmer, but it's one of those where knackered suspension -> firmer is still transformational.

[Ootohere]

Welcome.

 

This has been a Trader with a good reputation, i have no experience of anything recent.

 

Assume nothing about MOTs, ask.

 

So be sure the Haldex Services were done, @ 3 years / 30,000 miles or when last done.

The DSG Serviced, when was it last done. 

Due @ 40,000 mile intervals.

[ChrisCh]

Give it a good look over and make sure that the DSG has been serviced every 40,000 miles. Would be good if the Haldex had been serviced too (and ideally a new filter) with new oil.

 

280 L&Ks generally get snapped up very quickly - so you've probably done the right thing!

 

 

Note that you can get the head unit upgraded to the later model (2017) larger screen, that's certainly an upgrade that I've enjoyed on mine (see my build log for more info).

[commievid]

Yup, intend to replace anything oily, DSG and Haldex etc.

 

I've actually started eBay surfing regarding the MIB 2.5 and 9.2 inch screen as that'll then lead to the Virtual Cockpit and so on!

 

So I'll be raising questions over the next few weeks/months!

[commievid]

Ooh, just started reading your log @ChrisCh and yeah the idea of possibly upgrading MIB2 to MIB2.5 would be super convenient, so definitely would rather do that than need to source both screen and head unit.

[commievid]

@Rooted called it, the presumption of the final sale price was predicated on them not bothering with an MoT.

 

I decided to bite the bullet anyway, and we headed up to Bo'ness to collect the car.

 

Car drives absolutely fine, wife was delighted.

 

There is a strange amount of rust along the sills of the car, I'll remain optimistic that this surface stuff and due to its life spent around Aberdeenshire.

 

It did however fail an MoT carried out on the day, as I was able to book an afternoon slot yesterday.

 

Snapped front spring and a windscreen washer jet not working.

 

Not the end of the world. Intent was to lay this car up for a few months to give it the once over (suspension included). So it just confirms the previous MoTs over the tired suspension.

 

Washer jet I'll presume is a straight swap, but it does feel that the one working one appears to have a delay, and the rear washer doesn't seem to work at all. Sounds like something I may end up needing to dig deeper.

 

Whilst the comfort setting can be a bit wallowy, it does make sense on some of the roads (especially M6 around Birmingham), so I'm in two minds about whether B6's might mar that versus the OEM Monroes.

 

Definitely need springs though, I recall seeing posts about springs that might raise the height compared to original L&K ones, I'll have to plan that.

 

I believe @pab567 is the guy to go to regarding the MIB stuff, so I might send him a PM shortly to plan that ahead.

[Warrior193]

Hello CV, did you get a rebate allowance for the broken spring? 

[commievid]

The asking price was £11500 and got it to £11000.

If I was doing the minimum for an MoT, I think £200-250 would buy a pair and I swap them over.

 

I'll be laying up the car over the next few months so I'll probably go overboard with the suspension refresh.

I'll probably use this thread to keep tally costs for those curious enough.

[commievid]

Original plan was for B6's, but with the thoughts of comfort, I'm now in several minds.

 

Looking at https://www.bilstein-shocks.co.uk/ it sadly looks like only about £100 difference between B4s (https://www.bilstein-shocks.co.uk/products/23-238978 and https://www.bilstein-shocks.co.uk/products/20-238988) and B6s (https://www.bilstein-shocks.co.uk/products/23-254343 and https://www.bilstein-shocks.co.uk/products/20-254353)

One could probably scrape up the Monroe OEMs for less than half of the price of them, and if its close to OEM, the price jump for the B4s are a little harder to justify?

 

May have to toss a coin (or three)...

[nicknorman]

This is my old car. Happy to advise on what was done when etc. Generally the Haldex and DSG were serviced by me at the appropriate times, Haldex pump gauze cleaned, engine oil & filter changed every 9000 miles or so (I put it on to fixed servicing after the first couple of years). I think it is probably due new spark plugs but on the other hand, when you change them they still look good as new. Brakes pads are getting a bit thin IIRC.  I got £9k trade in for it.

 

Yes one front shocker went, £500 for a new one! The other side was still fine when I sold it. I also had 3 broken springs at various times - VW group springs are rubbish! I guess the 4th one had broken without me realising it. Sorry about that! Not sure why there is an issue with the washers, they were fine when I traded it in but that was early December.

 

Some rust appeared along the sills after a prolonged encounter with a snow drift. I did treat it with rust inhibitor and repaint it, but maybe it’s come back. Definitely just surface rust though. A bit poor for a modern car!

 

i never used comfort, almost always sport or occasionally normal on slow bumpy roads.

 

Anyway hopefully it will be a good car for you, the engine and gearbox were as sweet as when I bought it with 9k on the clock in Sept 2016. I only changed it because I would need a new one in a couple of years and I don’t like the 2024 Superbs - I got one of the last 2023 ones.

[commievid]

Thanks for the info @nicknorman, I've found your post about the drama:

iIt is a shame that the Springs were having these issues circa 80-90k miles, I've only ever seen a snapped springs on a 170k car and 18 year old car in separate incidents, not one still actually quite young in the grand scheme of things.

 

I want to believe Aberdeen would be generally saltier due to needing more grit on roads and the vicinity of the sea being a possible factor?

 

I will probably likely go with the ones suggested here, being a smidge higher and thicker (although a Diesel might suggest it could be higher still, due to weight?). Will depend on pricing I suppose.

 

 

Edited 26 February by commievid

[nicknorman]

2 minutes ago, commievid said:

Thanks for the info @nicknorman, I've found your post about the drama:

iIt is a shame that the Springs were having these issues circa 80-90k miles, I've only ever seen a snapped springs on a 170k car and 18 year old car in separate incidents, not one still actually quite young in the grand scheme of things.

 

I want to believe Aberdeen would be generally saltier due to needing more grit on roads and the vicinity of the sea being a possible factor?

 

I will probably likely go with the ones suggested here, being a smidge higher and thicker.

 

 

Actually that “fault damper” was the suspension level sensor issue. Fairly trivial to fix. When the front damper pumped all its oil out, there was no dashboard warning. And indeed it wasn’t noticeable when driving, presumably due to the anti-roll bar transferring the damping action from the other side, I was fairly surprised when the guy in the MOT garage showed me the damper he’d taken off, he could pump it with his hands with absolutely zero damping effect.

 

Regarding the springs, I’m 67 and had plenty of cars in my life. Before this car I had Saabs and Subarus, all very high mileage. I never had a broken spring, so it is not me or the environment, it is the crappy VW springs!

 

It’s the same with the rear brake discs, the OEM ones had to be changed at 20k miles. The fairly budget replacements ones (Delphi iirc) were massively better than the originals.

 

Car was always garaged overnight and Aberdeen doesn’t normally suffer from a salty air environment because the prevailing wind is offshore, but there is obviously a lot more salt on the roads for longer, compared to Englandshire.

[commievid]

I suppose the cynic in me would say that the best engineered cars last not a day longer than 3 years, otherwise it's bad business not being able to sell new cars to people.

 

Regardless, I've now ordered a set of Eibach springs from Autodoc, R16391 and R21093, alongside top mount and other rubber gubbins. £312.38

 

So I'll probably track three sections:

 

Maintenance: Stuff like general servicing or repairs, whether scheduled or unscheduled.

Upgrades: Any of the possibly "fun" stuff, or perhaps less "fun" mods.

Miscellaneous: Anything I've needed as part of VW group car ownership, think bespoke tools that I don't already have in the garage.

 

So, thus far:

 

Maintenance: £312.38

Upgrades: £0

Miscellaneous: £0

Edited 26 February by commievid
Eibach springs, not Bilstein!

[nicknorman]

17 minutes ago, commievid said:

I suppose the cynic in me would say that the best engineered cars last not a day longer than 3 years, otherwise it's bad business not being able to sell new cars to people.

 

Regardless, I've now ordered a set of Bilstein springs from Autodoc, R16391 and R21093, alongside top mount and other rubber gubbins. £312.38

 

So I'll probably track three sections:

 

Maintenance: Stuff like general servicing or repairs, whether scheduled or unscheduled.

Upgrades: Any of the possibly "fun" stuff, or perhaps less "fun" mods.

Miscellaneous: Anything I've needed as part of VW group car ownership, think bespoke tools that I don't already have in the garage.

 

So, thus far:

 

Maintenance: £312.38

Upgrades: £0

Miscellaneous: £0

If you are into doing your own maintenance then these days something like VCDS, ODB11 etc is pretty much essential. I made some changes to your car including turning off seat belt warning (because I use the car at the gliding club airfield a lot and I hate beeping things!), changing the leaving/coming home lights to the fog lights, activating traffic sign recognition and probably some other stuff I’ve forgotten. I did reverse the seat belt warning thing before I sold it.

 

I would also recommend getting a throttle pedal box, I had a Racechip one (transferred to new car). Of course it doesn’t ultimately make the car go any faster, but  the standard throttle response is very soggy and the pedal box transforms the way it seems to drive.

[commievid]

So I've started building up a shopping list and am awaiting bits and bobs.

 

I've noticed this:

 

So missing one of those emergency key bits in the spare fob. @nicknorman if this lying around anywhere (also, the umbrella...) then DM me and I'll see if I can sort out postage costs?

 

In the meanwhile, took some photos and sent it to a guy on eBay:

 

Will it work? Probably not, I imagine its quite difficult to cut keys based on a few photos, but it fits in the fob and it'll do for now. £12.50

Here's how she looks after a quick clean (then rain):

 

Unfortunately I got a bit eager with the pressure washer:

 

Existing rust probably loosened the paint so even more has lifted off. I think it at least tells me its all surface rust. I've dabbled a layer of corrosion block grease which I use for the Lotus, whilst I probably plan to just give a quick blow over with some rattle cans once the weather gets better, and before I take it to a proper body shop.

 

This made me giggle as an aside: https://www.aberdeenlive.news/news/aberdeen-named-most-corrosive-place-6737176

 

Maintenance: £324.88 (+£12.50)

Upgrades: £0

Miscellaneous: £0

[nicknorman]

8 hours ago, commievid said:

So I've started building up a shopping list and am awaiting bits and bobs.

 

I've noticed this:

 

So missing one of those emergency key bits in the spare fob. @nicknorman if this lying around anywhere (also, the umbrella...) then DM me and I'll see if I can sort out postage costs?

 

In the meanwhile, took some photos and sent it to a guy on eBay:

 

Will it work? Probably not, I imagine its quite difficult to cut keys based on a few photos, but it fits in the fob and it'll do for now. £12.50

Here's how she looks after a quick clean (then rain):

 

Unfortunately I got a bit eager with the pressure washer:

 

Existing rust probably loosened the paint so even more has lifted off. I think it at least tells me its all surface rust. I've dabbled a layer of corrosion block grease which I use for the Lotus, whilst I probably plan to just give a quick blow over with some rattle cans once the weather gets better, and before I take it to a proper body shop.

 

This made me giggle as an aside: https://www.aberdeenlive.news/news/aberdeen-named-most-corrosive-place-6737176

 

Maintenance: £324.88 (+£12.50)

Upgrades: £0

Miscellaneous: £0

 

Regarding the key fob I have virtually never used that key, it has always sat in a box in the living room. Just checked it, no emergency key there. I am fairly sure it wasn't there when I got the car. On the other hand, in 7 years and 102,000 miles I never had to use the emergency key. Also I am fairly sure that you get 3 keys with an L&K, I certainly did with the new one. But when I got that car at 6 months old they definitely only gave me 2 keys.

 

Umbrella - I kept it for the other side as you only get one with a new car. Tough!

 

What I do have is the plastic things for the boot that clip off the bottom of the sides. They have velcro and can be plonked on the boot floor to stop stuff rolling around. I took them off when I was hoovering out the boot and found them after I'd sold the car - forgot to put them back! Can send if you like.

 

As to the paintwork, that is quite annoying because I spent hours sanding, treating with rust converter, spraying primer, spraying the base coat and spraying the top coat. Looks like I shouldn't have bothered! I guess the rust converter was rubbish. But yes it is just surface rust and it all appeared suddenly after i had driven through a snowdrift.

Personally I never use a pressure washer on the car, I always just used a hose and a soft brush thing with soap dispenser. IMO pressure washers are not good for the moving gubbins as it can get water into bearings etc. I never used snow foam either, but interestingly in conversation with the manager at the showroom where I bought the new car, he volunteered that I should not use snow foam because it is very alkali and makes the chrome bits around the doors corrode, which is not covered by warranty.

[commievid]

I found myself forced to use the pressure washer as my normal hose gun had a split (probably some overnight freezing temperatures and water left in the hose), so didn't have anything to wash with otherwise! Rest of the car is fine though, but I'll be gentler next time.

 

Had a similar experience with a Tesla at less than 3 years old where the sill paint flaked off leaving primer underneath, so that was amusing. Not sure why I didn't learn my lesson.

 

No worries about the umbrella, don't think the boot gubbins are probably worth your time and effort to sort out.

[commievid]

So these arrived today:

A second hand Panasonic Toughbook (£154.95) from eBay something rugged that probably makes sense when underneath a car (and especially as my previous Surface Pro has a smashed display).

 

I probably a clone of an older Hex+Can somewhere, but I reckon the amount of hassle and effort to get that working probably outweighs the outset for a proper one. In for a penny...

 

Decided to go with the wifi and bluetooth capable Hex Net from Gendan (£430.00) so that the USB cable isn't needed, could be more convenient, as I imagine situations where I may need to bleed an ABS pump and just take the laptop with me as go around the car, etc. Either that or it stops me from tripping over the cable like an idiot.

 

It's the 10 VIN example, and I suppose if I get to a point where I can charge people for its use, then I could upgrade to unlimited and put them all in as business expenses.

 

I'll probably spend a bit of this evening but most likely the weekend running through it and probably getting a massive list of codes or whatever the correct nomenclature is before I start doing something more potentially destructive.

 

Maintenance: £324.88

Upgrades: £0

Miscellaneous: £584.95 (+£584.95)

[commievid]

As has been inferred in earlier posts, it looks like it is possible to upgrade an MIB 2 setup to a MIB 2.5, and after reading, re-reading, and re-reading again, I've decided to set this weekend out to give this a go:

 

https://github.com/harman-f/MHI2_MIB2_AIO_FW_Update_Template/wiki/G11-to-G13-conversion

 

So this "All-In-One" firmware apparently has the ability to convert what it describes as G11 (MIB 2) to G13 (MIB 2.5).

 

There's probably all manner of pitfalls that I'm naive to. The absolute worse case scenario that I can foresee is that I brick the head unit completely, at which I can then cry to @pab567 whilst throwing money his way either to fix it or replace.

 

Best case scenario though, is that the only requirement is a replacement display. I don't know if the display has Component Protection, or if its just a display for the head unit and nothing more.

 

One of the first things the above page outlines is to update to the latest G11 FW 1st!

 

So, holding down the menu button on the display and some menu rummaging reveals:

The currently installed "train" is MHI2_ER_SKG11_P2104_1 and the logs suggest some previous updates in the past.

 

There's a neat website, https://mib-helper.com/ which can take this "train" and provide a bit more information.

 

So here's an excerpt from the above site:

Quote

 

1. Firmware details:
Generation and tier: MIB2 High
Region: Europe & Rest of the World
Brand: Skoda
Version: 8-inch display
Trade Name: Skoda Columbus
Firmware version: P2104 (MU: 0318)
Firmware type: Production
Hardware vendor: Harman or Aisin (target market dependent)

2. Latest available firmware updates:
Latest official firmware update: MHI2_ER_SKG11_K3343 (MU: 1433, details).
Latest possible firmware update: MHI2_ER_SKG11_K3343 (MU: 1433, details).

 

 

The site even provide links about where to download this firmware, Youtube videos of the steps, and details about navigation maps and POI updates.

 

The site is https://mibsolution.one/ and essentially, I just downloaded MHI2_ER_SKG11_K3343.7z in addition to MHI_ER_SKG13_P4526_1_AIO_MU1440_20230504.7z in preparation.

 

Whilst there, I downloaded the Gracenote2_AIO_payload.7z (I've never heard of Gracenote before, but Googling suggests its music metadata) and the P350_N60S5MIBH3_EU.7z for maps.

 

The map download is a whopping 26.1GB, so the site provides a link to download via a more dedicated site. The site is slow, taking an average of 2-3 hours for a firmware. One of the files last night only took 4 minutes though, maybe I lucked out with low contention rates after midnight?

 

All the guides and advice around the internet suggests a FAT32 full size SD card, which is a bit annoying as I have mountains of microSD cards, with their respective adapters.

 

With firmware and updates though, probably best not too much with fire, although having said that, I still acquired a 128GB full fat SD card (£10.99 from Amazon), which made the additional requirement of FAT32 need a few more hoops.

 

Normally, Windows gets a bit awkward with sizes greater than 32GB and will use exFAT by default. Internet suggests several tools for the purpose, but Rufus https://rufus.ie/en/ appeared successful.

 

Rufus appears to do a quick format, so only a few moments and it looks good:

It's then a case of copying over the contents of MHI2_ER_SKG11_K3343_MU1433.7z over to the SD card. I would suggest to download the 7zip app via https://www.7-zip.org/ as its much faster than Windows' 7zip archive handling.

 

So the SD card should look something like:

That should be it for this stage of the process. So pop the SD card over to the car, stick the ignition on, wait for the system to boot up and pop the SD card in.

Before I forget, as per firmware updates on anything, always a good idea to keep things plugged in:

I have a few of these because owning several cars means that a few will be dormant at a time, and it's always good to keep things topped up. I don't know if firmware update processes can happen with an engine running, but that's a possible alternative.

 

So, I think because this is a normal firmware update, it should be a case of accessing the menu via holding the button again, and finding the option to update:

 

Then with any luck, it'll scour the SD card and find it:

 

Confirm things and then wait.

 

Hopefully, it reboots a few times:

 

 

Then everything should be as per normal. Returning back to that menu and double checking:

 

The update should be complete!

 

I will now need to mentally prepare myself for the big update. This arrived yesterday:

 

With the G11 to G13 conversion page outlining only 9.2" screens work and for Superbs, it is 3V0 919 606 D:

 

So hopefully all present all correct. £315 from eBay. Noticed some scratches on the screen, but I'm hopelessly optimistic that it'll not be visible when the display is on.

 

Also acquired some removal tools, (£3.49 from Amazon):

 

Apologies for essentially outlining a probably standard update procedure. I'll be doing similar for the conversion so that if it goes belly up, I can at least have some record for posterity of what NOT to do.

 

Maintenance: £324.88

Upgrades: £315.00 (+£315.00)

Miscellaneous: £584.95 (+£14.48)

 

Edited 2 March by commievid

[pab567]

Good luck!

[commievid]

So, got cracking on with this G11 to G13 conversion.

 

Usual disclaimers: Please don't try this at home unless you're sure it'll be ok, I can't be held responsible for others!

 

So the first order of business was to take the 128GB SD Card I used for the previous update and gave it a quick format with Rufus, followed by copying over the G13 AIO firmware.

 

The contents contains instructions to perform the G11 to G13 conversion, so I followed them to the letter, changing properties on the metainfo2 file from:

 

To:

 

So a couple of flags to disable version checking and what "train" the update supports. I note that for the Skoda ones, it has a wildcard MHI_ER_SKG11_* so I suppose anyone with a bit more bravery could try it with any version of the G11 "train", but I wouldn't recommend that at all.

 

It also mentions in the website guide to rename the _Swdlautorun.txt file to remove the underscore prefix, which should then mean the card insertion is enough to kick start the update process.

 

So a few deep breaths...

 

But before that, made sure the battery charger is in place and keeping the battery topped up (it was left on overnight, so I think it'll be good).

 

Then some preparatory stuff.

 

Firstly, for this particular display, remove the trim around the display:

 

I used fingers at first to get some purchase then a standard trim removal tool to slide around the rest, and it pops out:

 

This reveals the slots for the insertion of the keys, so inserting the keys and with a bit of wiggling in my case, it should come free:

 

I left the display hanging slightly, so that once the update reboots and then expects the newer screen, I can then swap them over with just the two cables to change.

 

I few more deep breaths, and the SD card is now inserted into the head unit, with the display immediately detecting the card and showing the same messages as yesterday with the normal firmware update procedure:

 

These photos are almost the same as yesterday:

 

However, once it rebooted, the display remained black, but I could hear what presumably was the head unit fan (or at least some fan around the glovebox), so decided this was the moment that the head unit was now only going to work with the new display.

 

So pull the old display out enough to get my fingers onto the connectors, and luckily they all came out without much drama. Inserting the connectors into the new display then revealed:

 

Did a little first bump as the display is on and working!

 

I then got a warning message, one which the guide explicitly mentions:

 

It stresses to just press skip, as cancelling could be a disaster! So once skipped, it pretty much finished:

 

Checking the version by holding down the home button:

 

Success!

 

It took pretty much the same time as yesterdays firmware update, so around 35-40 minutes.

 

Next step is to reinstall the maps, which I've decided to do with the SD card reformatted again, but this time to exFAT just to feed my curiosity.

 

The install process is then the same as a standard firmware update, going via the service menu to search for updates:

 

The install for this took longer primarily because of the huge size of the maps I presume. Took the opportunity to give the car a quick once over with a vacuum. It will need a few more goes by the looks of it, but it is what it is.

 

After a few more restarts:

 

Maps are on.

 

I also added POIs via another update, this time, via a microSD card with an adapter. This also worked, so the general advice of using a good normal sized SD card is more a wise precaution, if for whatever reason you don't want to spend the £8 or so for one.

 

Maintenance: £324.88

Upgrades: £315.00

Miscellaneous: £584.95

Edited 2 March by commievid

[commievid]

I found this whilst rummaging and cleaning up the house:

 

Can't remember what car this was intended for, but I suppose it'll be this one!

 

Decided before I fire this off, to remove the cabin filter. I'll be replacing it as part of the complete service overhaul that I'll be doing, and given the car isn't going anyway, I surmised it'll be fine to leave it out. Don't want this thing essentially being trapped by the cabin filter.

 

Fairly typical job, where the glovebox needs removing, or at least here, just dropping down. There's a couple of rubber buffers:

 

Which fantastically just need pushing up on each side and the glovebox starts coming free. I'm easily impressed maybe?

 

The glovebox catch then comes away with a tiny bit of effort:

 

To reveal the cabin filter housing:

 

There's three plastic tabs at the top, middle and bottom, and they just need a bit of convincing downwards to come free of their tabs and it then slightly angles away and comes free.

 

The cabin filter looks better than some of the horrors I've seen:

 

Probably a couple of years by the looks of it.

 

I moved the front seats forward all the way, and fired the aircon bomb and put it behind the drivers seat.

 

It's still doing it's thing right now, I'll give it 20 minutes or so. Make sure the car is on full blast and recirculation!

 

I've noticed this on the dash, and looks like the cruise control buttons are showing:

 

Maybe something with the firmware update, could be something needed coding, or the fact that car hasn't moved since all this, I'll swot up around the forums to find out.

 

So, my first mod is complete!

 

Now, to actually acquire other mods and actual stuff to service this car!

 

Maintenance: £324.88

Upgrades: £315.00

Miscellaneous: £584.95

Edited 2 March by commievid