Despite resetting several times I'm still getting this code up after a few miles. I spent some time reviewing old threads but they always seem to peter out without resolution. So here I am.

Firstly the throttle body is clean, the EGR pipe entering it is clean and the car runs fine.

So I gather (and correct me if I'm off here) the likely cause is a sticky EGR valve? So I think the next logical step is to remove and clean. What is the best way of doing this? Does the silver pipe need to be unbolted from the EGR to remove or can I just release the intake screws and remove with the pipe attached? Bolts seem stuck...

So any input on this is welcome.

Hi there, was looking at this the other day and it might help.

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/341913-fabia-14-16v-bbz-egr-throttle-clean-out-advice/

Alasdair

On my 1.9tdi there is an EGR cooler as well as EGR valve. There is seperate valve attached to the cooler at rear of engine. Not sure if yours has similar. Mine was insufficient flow due to stickin valve on cooler.

Alasdair

Might be a worn EGR valve rather than a sticking one. A sticking one ought to generate a specific code saying 'position mismatch' or similar, since there is position feedback from a potentiometer in the top part.

EGR valves on petrol engines tend to burn off any local carbon build-up cos they run very hot. As said in that linked thread, it's only generally the TB end of the metal pipe that gets occluded, where temperatures are much lower.

No cooler on these, @Alasdair1 other than the long steel pipe.

There's a little pipe on the side of the EGR that equalises the pressure above the valve, with a tiddly little air filter on the end of the short flexible pipe.

It might be worth pulling that filter off, and seeing how much suck there is on that pipe when the engine is idling (EGR should be shut below 1500rpm). It is expected that there should be a bit of air entry here, due to the clearances round the valve stem and wear on the valve seat, but if it seems like a really strong suck, that air is probably leaking through to the intake manifold and potentially confusing the engine ECU.

If EGR valve is thought to be original, it may be time to replace, genuine Pierburg recommended over the many cheap chinesium offerings.

Edited 6 March, 20251 yr by Breezy_Pete
tagged wrong Alasdair

4 hours ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Might be a worn EGR valve rather than a sticking one. A sticking one ought to generate a specific code saying 'position mismatch' or similar, since there is position feedback from a potentiometer in the top part.

EGR valves on petrol engines tend to burn off any local carbon build-up cos they run very hot. As said in that linked thread, it's only generally the TB end of the metal pipe that gets occluded, where temperatures are much lower.

No cooler on these, @Alasdair1 other than the long steel pipe.

There's a little pipe on the side of the EGR that equalises the pressure above the valve, with a tiddly little air filter on the end of the short flexible pipe.

It might be worth pulling that filter off, and seeing how much suck there is on that pipe when the engine is idling (EGR should be shut below 1500rpm). It is expected that there should be a bit of air entry here, due to the clearances round the valve stem and wear on the valve seat, but if it seems like a really strong suck, that air is probably leaking through to the intake manifold and potentially confusing the engine ECU.

If EGR valve is thought to be original, it may be time to replace, genuine Pierburg recommended over the many cheap chinesium offerings.

Thank you. Lots to consider there so I will work through. I did read that original linked thread but it's a shame we never got to hear if the work was carried out or successful.

I'll have a look for a new EGR as its definitely original. 20 years old and over 80,000 miles.

On my Fabia with the PD130 cleaning the EGR is very easy and running premium fuel it stays pretty clean.

Excessive flow is what the MAP sensor is telling the ECU, but it might not be anything to do with the EGR valve, it can be caused by air leaks into the inlet that are bypassing the throttle body, check thoroughly for vacuum leaks and check the breather system as well. There is also the possibility that the EGR position sensor is sending back the wrong data, you can try re-adapting the EGR valve if it'll let you, if the adaption routine fails then the EGR valve is defective and needs replacing. Petrol EGR valve is nothing like the diesel item and any comparisons are unhelpful at best.

On 11/03/2025 at 16:07, sepulchrave said:

Excessive flow is what the MAP sensor is telling the ECU, but it might not be anything to do with the EGR valve, it can be caused by air leaks into the inlet that are bypassing the throttle body, check thoroughly for vacuum leaks and check the breather system as well. There is also the possibility that the EGR position sensor is sending back the wrong data, you can try re-adapting the EGR valve if it'll let you, if the adaption routine fails then the EGR valve is defective and needs replacing. Petrol EGR valve is nothing like the diesel item and any comparisons are unhelpful at best.

Thanks. I'll add the breather to my list.

Update. I saw that original Pierburg EGR valves were on super special discount - £81. My local motor factors was asking £160. So I ordered one. Will be arriving shortly.

Inlet is all clean and definitely no leaks. I did have one on the servo hose though but that wasn't the problem as it was replaced around about a month ago.

I managed to free off the two EGR M8 flanged nuts - one needed a nut splitter. Tough!

I'll update here with EGR findings as well as the breather.

Edited 12 March, 20251 yr by Tailhappy

Despite removing the EGR nuts (x2) it remains stubbornly in place on the two studs. Beyond smashing at it with chisel and hammer is there any 'knack' in removing it? I've soaked in plus gas, used a lever and struck it with a bit of wood. Not 1mm of movement.

A decade since I did the one on our Fabia, but I seem to remember that the studs had become a bit non-parallel over time.

Think I somehow squeezed them together, or pushed them apart at the ends to square them up, then prize the thing off.

Might be corroded on with white aluminium oxide jamming everything up too. Heat will probably help.

Is it the metal pipe that won't come off, or the EGR itself?

If metal pipe is off, is the outer metal gasket off too?

Remembering now that I moved that outer gasket along threads to the end, but left it on to hold studs parallel while freeing the valve body.

33 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Is it the metal pipe that won't come off, or the EGR itself?

If metal pipe is off, is the outer metal gasket off too?

Remembering now that I moved that outer gasket along threads to the end, but left it on to hold studs parallel while freeing the valve body.

Metal pipe is off and to the side Pete. Gasket removed too - I thought it may be trapping the EGR. I agree, it's probably gunked up - but nothing to get hold of!

Thanks for the tip of non-paralell studs. Will check that.

I have just shaped the end of a flat bladed 'pound through' screwdriver to a fine wedge. See if I can create a bit of movement after blow torch application.

On the YouTube video the old EGR just slid off 😄

It's not giving up! Chunks of EGR flying off but not 1mm of movement. Perfect Saturday🙄

Can you unbolt the bracket that attaches it all to the side of the head, so you can work on the bench/in the vice?

Undo item 28 bolts:

Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts

Bolts look pretty rusty so will probably have seized in alloy. Try some thin oil, leave to soak then heat and when hot more oil and some more heat till oil just starts to boil/bubble and keep repeating. The heat should expaand alloy and let oil into bolts. I use a plumbers heat pad to protect surrounding wiring/plastic etc. I also bought a map gas blow torch with small burner head so I could be more accurate to where the heat is going. Hopefully enough oil will get into bolts to free it off.

Cheers. Well it's tea up now. The oil pressure sensor was in the line of fire so that's gone too.

The right hand stuff through the EGR is free - moves away. I have really heated and Plus Gassed multiple times. I've tried to remove the right hand stud but it's frozen. However it means I now have a small gap so what I intend to do is now the EGR is mostly gone to saw it in half, remove the loose half and rotate the remainder.

I'll try those two bolts and if they do move I'll take the whole assembly off. But those bolts are risky. Don't want them shearing.

Edited 15 March, 20251 yr by Tailhappy

46 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Can you unbolt the bracket that attaches it all to the side of the head, so you can work on the bench/in the vice?

Success! Those undid

Try some 5w30 oil or ATF rather than plusgas and some heat. I find plusgas/wd40 tends to evaporate when its heated.

Alasdair

Needs no words 😄

Well at least the EGR came off 🙃

Despite getting the stud cherry red multiple times it didn't even budge one jot. Only movement was the stud twisting. But I'll drill and tap no problem.

"Slide EGR off the studs" 😅

Its the alloy not the stud you should be heating, in fact a heat sink or cooling the stud with a wet rag creates more differential expansion.

That said from the photos it doesn't look like it was ever going to release, cutting the alloy away would have been the only way to save the stud.

Hopefully you can drill out the remains cleanly, do you have any left hand flute drill bits?

1 hour ago, J.R. said:

Its the alloy not the stud you should be heating, in fact a heat sink or cooling the stud with a wet rag creates more differential expansion.

That said from the photos it doesn't look like it was ever going to release, cutting the alloy away would have been the only way to save the stud.

Hopefully you can drill out the remains cleanly, do you have any left hand flute drill bits?

Oh yes it was the alloy first. Did that a couple of times. And freeze sprayed the stud. Then tried really heating the stud to see if I could free it. No joy. All the hammering and leverage had also weakened the stud I think.

Yes I do have reverse drills but in this case they just drilled a hole. I managed to get out some old stud out with a centre punch.

I think this is one of the toughest jobs I've ever done.

Edited 15 March, 20251 yr by Tailhappy

That was seriously stuck!. Sometimes it just wont come apart no matter what you do. Hopefully you can get the broken stud out eventually.

Alasdair

Does it look like this is missing something?

No, it's just a NRV that's lets air in but not out.

No, it's just a (very) little air filter.