Good evening fellow Skoda owners.

My daughter purchased a 2022 Karoq about 8 months ago from a car supermarket. It has only got 38k on clock.

Had a few issues initially with suspension noises which the dealer eventually sorted out.

Recently on a long drive got a message on dash "Clutch temperature too high - drive on" which was accompanied by the EPC light coming on and another message "Ensure clutch pedal not depressed"

I have driven it myself and found that particularly when in high gears and putting foot down hard the revs increase and then the EPC kicks in and cuts the revs before all of the above messages appear.

Took it to a trusted VW garage who suggested that it could be the slave cylinder which has some kind of valve which are known for not fully releasing the pressure in the clutch hydraulics and could be causing the issue. I think at some stage there was a recall for this, not sure if on this particular variant or if on another platform sharing the same drive train.

The slave cylinder has been replaced and unfortunately has not cured the issue, so its going back in soon to be looked at again and potentially looking at a new clutch which is going to be costly.

There is no smell of burnt clutch when this happens and the biting point is not high as I would have expected if the clutch was worn out so its a bit of a strange one. The slave is not concentric which rules out fluid leaking onto the clutch, not sure if oil could have found its way in there.

Just wondered if anyone has experienced this issue at all and if the only cure was to replace the clutch.

Its out of warranty with the dealer now but from past experience its a wear and tear item anyway and wouldn't be covered. It still has a couple of manufacturer warranty left but guessing that's going to be pretty much useless now anyway for this issue.

My last car had 105k on clock when I sold it on its original clutch but I guess it depends how the previous owner drove it.

Cheers guys!

Hi , how does the car start on a hill ?

Any vibration when letting the clutch out at the biting point ?

Hi it seems fine starting on a hill no judder or anything unusual. Seems to engage ok and accelerates under moderate load but then starts to slip under heavy load.

Hi ,

Well that throws my idea out of the window.

I had a VW Passat that used a new idea then of a Dual mass flywheel that was designed to save weight and provide a better ride.

I know what I am going today is obvious but you really need to found out what the problem is before throwing money at the car.

In the Passat the VW dealer thought the clutch had failed but the cause of the clutch issue was the dual mast flywheel had failed.

Unfortunately I feel that a dealer visit may be the only answer and speak to the master technician.

Really sorry I could not be of any help.

I recall reading a post from an owner with a low mileage 1.0 with a clutch issue. Search this forum because I think it was eventually proven to be a faulty clutch.

Thanks its been back in today and decision taken to install a new clutch so fingers crossed that cures it 🤞The biting point feels better since it's had a new slave but is still slipping so they think that the faulty slave over time may have damaged the clutch.

6 hours ago, thamestrader said:

I recall reading a post from an owner with a low mileage 1.0 with a clutch issue. Search this forum because I think it was eventually proven to be a faulty clutch.

There were a couple of earlyish issues - something had been sprayed on flywheels that was causing clutches to slip when the cars were in transit mode (for delivery) and damaging them. Also also some suspected issues with the electronic parking brake releasing too slowly so the clutch was workinga against it.

Other than that, there's always the odd failure. We had a new clutch in a Polo when it went in for first service and I mentioned the pedal was very stiff.

Well the clutch has now been replaced. I had a look at the old friction plate and it was completely knackered worn down to the rivets and disintegrating on the edges.

Unfortunately now 2nd gear is very notchy and struggled to engage it when cold so it's going back in tomorrow to be looked at again.

Also now noticed an issue with the hold assist. Green light comes on when stationary but then doesn't release until clutch pedal fully released by which time the engine stalls. Wondering if this was part of the cause of the worn out clutch. Either that or the previous owner was a bad driver. Having had a look online othere have reported this and was fixed by either a recalibration or software update by skoda. It's still under warranty until November so looking like may be a trip to them to resolve. I have tried a hard reset by disconnecting the battery for an hour (every dash light and warning came on afterwards) Also tried to hold the button down for 5 seconds and then another 5 seconds but nothing has worked.

I've just serviced the car and noticed that it needs new rear pads so ordered a set but have since seen that you need a diag tool to put the electric caliper into service mode 😮‍💨 my obd2 tool only reads and clears codes so probably going to have to pay for that to be done Also.

Whatever was wrong with manual handbrakes? 😌

You mentioned a mileage of 38,000 miles, if the rear pads need replacing after only 38k miles that is not very good. Rear pads should last at least 100k miles, lends weight to the hill hold or electric hand brake not releasing fully.

12 hours ago, thamestrader said:

You mentioned a mileage of 38,000 miles, if the rear pads need replacing after only 38k miles that is not very good. Rear pads should last at least 100k miles, lends weight to the hill hold or electric hand brake not releasing fully.

Absolutely, unfortunately it sounds like a vehicle that has probably been mistreated, or used for a great deal of towing

12 hours ago, thamestrader said:

You mentioned a mileage of 38,000 miles, if the rear pads need replacing after only 38k miles that is not very good. Rear pads should last at least 100k miles, lends weight to the hill hold or electric hand brake not releasing fully.

That's quite out of date, really. Cars now with electronic brake distribution brake more evenly, and stability control often uses a rear brake on corners. A qucik search shows a 2013 post from a Yeti owner years ago confused about why the rear pads went first. Rear pads are pretty small compared to fronts.

Our Ateca (same car as Karoq) did a 35 mile each way motorway commute in my daughter's hands. That had new rear pads at 80K, which seems decent, but the fronts were reported as only 40% worn. So if fronts lasted 50/60K, changing the rears at 38K wouldn't be out of court.

The Ateca was driven by daughter with autohold always on but now I'm using the car I leave it off, just using the "hand"brake manually with the switch when needed. I found, if anything, that the brakes tended to release too early and I'd find the car rolling. I am concious not to hold the car with the clutch, as I expect it's tiny. It's pretty flat where we live though.

All sorted now. Garage were able to plug car in and said they needed to tell ECU that a new clutch had been installed which then sorted the hold assist out and now releases perfectly. They also did rear pads and everything feels OK now 🤞

On 11/09/2025 at 10:58, Piescoffer said:

All sorted now. Garage were able to plug car in and said they needed to tell ECU that a new clutch had been installed which then sorted the hold assist out and now releases perfectly. They also did rear pads and everything feels OK now 🤞

Glad you got it sorted, but would have thought they would know they needed to do the reset after a new clutch.

1 minute ago, daveo138 said:

Glad you got it sorted, but would have thought they would know they needed to do the reset after a new clutch.

Yeah the garage are actually bmw specialists primarily so not used to working on VAG stuff as such but glad we got there in the end. Never expected it on a newish low mileage car but the car came from a car supermarket and no idea who previous owner was or if it was ex rental etc. Back in the day buying a car I would always ask dealer to see log book and then try to look the previous owner up in telephone directory 😂 data protection doesnt allow you them to show you anything anymore. If an old receipt or invoice has previous owners details on that has to be removed as well.