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Intelligent IC mister install - injector help?

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I finally set to work on installing the Autospeed Intelligent IC mister setup this morning.http://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng22.shtml

Temps are over 40 deg with high humidity, so it's slow going.

So far, took off the bumper, installed the bigger washer bottle and the headlight washer pump, ran hose line to the IC, installed the sensors.

One little prob though, I'm hesitant to proceed with the necessary tap into any one of the injectors +ve line, mainly because I want to be sure I've identified them correctly.:eek:

With the cover off the 4 injectors are there at the front of the block. There's a loom with 2 wires running along the front, and another with 4 wires plugged into the side of the block it seems.

Would I be correct in assuming the 4-wire loom is the right one, or is that for a completely different thing?

Thanks for any help pointing me in the right direction!:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

Cheers

A very hot and sweaty Bas

thought the injectors are placed inside the head? :confused:

Hmm, trying to get my head around those diagrams in the link. Is it the duty cycle wire you're trying to wire up as it sounds like its related to the brake switch somehow? :confused: The other 4 wires appear to be 2 temp ones and a 12v and earth. Not sure why you need to start tapping into the engine harness wiring. :confused:

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You splice in to one of the wires in to an injector. I'll just do a search on here as to which colour it was on the Octy, BRB

Its the same system TaviaRS had on his 1.4 16v. The system works of the duty cycle of the injectors. Once the injectors go past a set limit the mist system is activated. Sure it also works of turbo boost as well.

I know their some guide on here somwhere relating to the 1.8T engine.

Its the same system TaviaRS had on his 1.4 16v.

For someone who has had 2 non-turbo intercool-less cars (1.4-16v and SDI), Jon knows a lot about it :rofl: Perhaps he helped fit it to his friend's cars? :confused:

Chris

Ah ha, on the Octy it is the pink/purple wire, NOT the thick red one - this assumes that your injector has two wires going in to it. I remember I tried the thick red one first and it wasn't that one so stripped a bit of the second one et voila - injector duty cycle sorted. The thick red one is a constant the pink/purple one is cycle

HTH

Yes Chris, I fitted thinks like this to my friend's car :D

Baz I had a look at my wiring diagrams and replied to your earlier email -

I am assuming you want to pick up the

Hmm' date=' trying to get my head around those diagrams in the link. Is it the duty cycle wire you're trying to wire up as it sounds like its related to the brake switch somehow? :confused: The other 4 wires appear to be 2 temp ones and a 12v and earth. Not sure why you need to start tapping into the engine harness wiring. :confused:

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Jason it looks to me like they've used the brake lights as a trigger in that CCT, when the brake is pressed the mist is off or something.

Stu,

What you have is the following:

A live feed to power the unit

An earth for the unit

A lead which goes to an injector to pick up the duty cycle

A temp sensor which you attach to the back (warmer)side of the i/c ie out of the airflow

A temp sensor which goes where the normal ambient temp sensor is (or you can mount it same side as the i/c but out of the air flow.

A lead to trigger the spray pump

That's all IIRC, nowt to do with brakes as they do not impact the operation of the unit.

I agree mate, but that CCT above deffo shows a connection to the brake light for the duty cycle so I can only assume that they are using that as the trigger.

Injector pulse would be the ideal I would think although it may cause the pump to stop and start too frequently or does the unit 'dampen' the pulse into a constant?

The diagram is wrong and Basil is on the right track, it goes to injector duty cycle.

The way the unit works is on a combination of parameters. These are adjustable by the user.

1. Difference in temp between the ambient temp and the temp at the back of the i/c ie you can set it to only trigger if the difference between the two is more than 10 c

2. Injector duty cycle - if the injector duty cycle is more than 75% then trigger.

It's clever as both parameters have to be met before it will trigger, so, if you are sitting in traffic at idle nowt will happen until you hoof it :D or Driving along gently, same will apply. In Winter you can drive like a nutter and it will only trigger once inlet temps rise. Saves using loads of water. It has a time delay built in as well, so pump will run on for a couple of seconds (I think you can choose how long for) so if you lift for a corner or brake, the pump will still be going as you come to accelerate.

As I say, jolly clever!

This is where I am going -

10237.attach

  • Author

First of all - thanks to all the friendly people helping out here.

Having a look at the head, I can identify the 4 injectors. Their ends are joined by a common solid plastic "rail"/loom. At the end of which only two wires exit - one purple/pink and the other black, same gauge.

The wires in the loom going to the big round black connector on the right of the engine are 2 colours each.

I am very confused - surely each injector should have its own coloured wire coming off of it, and all 4 head off to the ECU.

Hang on! thanks to the diagram kindly sent by Stu - AFTER junction T80 the injector wires all become 2-coloured. That's where I'm going to tap in!

I hope you are keeping a photo diary of this Bas!!!

  • Author

I've borrowed a digital camera - I'll get some pics tomorrow Stu, I promise.

I may have to seek some professional help (!) about passing the wires through the firewall. I took out the glovebox (rem: LHD vehicle here), and there's no sign of the grommet that's on the other side. Gotta get a wire coathanger.....

Where is you're bonnet pull?? Passenger side?

  • Author

no, on the driver's side

Drop the lower dash panel, that's where you're washer grommet will probably be.

  • Author

you mean above the glovebox, Stu?

Is, any idea how many torx fastners to open, where they are?

Thanks

Bas

No i mean under the steering wheel bas.

The first part of the guide here http://www.fabia-vrs.com/cruise.htm gives info on dropping the panel.

  • Author

OK, update on the install - got almost everything sorted out, except the duty cycle.

tapped into injector 1 (brown/white after T80) and the spray controller unit "rejected" it (the relevant LED lit up and then went out, meaning "wrong wire" to injector) But the other injector wire is to a common ground, I think!.

gonna have to cautiously experiment - stick a tester needle through the thin purple-pink one first coming off the top of the injector loom. That doesn't work then stick the lot one by one!

I'll find the bu**er!!!!!!

Cheers

Bas

  • Author

The duty cycle is absolutely no-go.

Despite considerable help, the unit is rejecting the vRS's injector signals. I've emailed the manufacturer to see if it's a diesel/petrol compatibility issue.

There are other ways of triggering the Fang setting - boost gauge, trigger circuit on the accelerator line, etc.

The throttle is DBW so will have an electrical signal.

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