Hello everyone, I have a problem with my Kamiq 1.0 Tsi. After replacing the clutch, the car wouldn't start, but it only started on the third try. The next day, the same thing happened. It started on the third try, then worked fine, and now it won't start at all. I have one engine fault code: 16097 - Fuel Pressure Sensor (G247) P019300 - Short to Positive. I replaced the sensor, but the same thing happens. Please help me find the cause. Regards, Łukasz.

You need to walk along the entire length of the wire to the sensor, maybe it got pinched/twisted/broken somewhere during the clutch repair...

Edited 18 December, 202518 Dec by mr_igor

Hey, I ran a multimeter through the signal cable to the controller, and there's continuity. Sorry for the poor translation.

Check from the sensor connector to see if two of the contacts show as being shorted together.

Edited 18 December, 202518 Dec by Breezy_Pete

Does it matter which pins? What if they are shorted?

If any two seem to be shorted (when unplugged from the sensor) it could indicate that there is wiring damage somewhere in the loom. Damage where insulation has been affected and conductors are touching each other.

This is what the fault code could be telling you.

But should I disconnect the ECU connector or leave it on while checking? I'll try to check it as soon as possible.

Best is to disconnect ECU connector also, yes.

Test each contact at the 3-way connector to each of the others, and also to chassis earth (engine metalwork).

If both connectors are unplugged each wire should be unconnected with anything else.

OK, I'll do that and let you know what happens. And the sensor that VCDS g247 shows is sensor number 04c906054c?

I checked the wires, and none of the wires are shorted to each other. The short to engine ground is on the green wire with the purple stripe. But that's probably a minus (-). After checking, the two outer wires are 5.0V. Where should I look next? Maybe a relay?

If the wire is shorting to chassis or maybe trapped/nipped by any other metal it will still show continuity unless physicaly broken. Unplug both ends and check theres no continuity from any of the wires to a known good earth on car to rule out a direct short to earth rather than other wires. Sorry if this seems basic but its quite often missed.

Just noticed Pete may have sugested the same.

Alasdair

Edited 18 December, 202518 Dec by Alasdair1

1 hour ago, mlody38 said:

I checked the wires, and none of the wires are shorted to each other. The short to engine ground is on the green wire with the purple stripe. But that's probably a minus (-). After checking, the two outer wires are 5.0V. Where should I look next? Maybe a relay?

Circuit looks like this, where 486 in circle at the bottom is an earth connection in engine prewiring harness and D141 is a 5V connection in same harness. Engine ECU is grey section at top of diagram.

No relay involved.

I see that both sensors have the same (+), but there's nothing else. I had both plugs disconnected, and the only short was to ground on the green wire, as I described.

Maybe the ECU itself is going crazy? Because it's the only one controlling the G247 sensor. How can I check that?

10 hours ago, mlody38 said:

I see that both sensors have the same (+), but there's nothing else. I had both plugs disconnected, and the only short was to ground on the green wire, as I described.

If both plugs were disconnected when you saw 5V on the violet/yellow wire, then it is shorted to the grey/yellow wire somewhere along its length.

That situation is exactly what the fault code suggests.

I wrote it wrong, buddy. I checked for a short circuit with the connectors disconnected from the ECU and the sensor. I checked the voltage with the connector connected to the ECU and the ignition on. And the short circuit is only on the green/violet wire to the engine housing. Of course, both connectors were disconnected at the time.

OK, so your readings all look OK then.

The signal (yellow/violet wire) probably has a so-called pull-up resistor inside the ECU, so that when the sensor is not doing anything that wire will be pulled up to 5V, as you observed.

Very unlikely to be an ECU fault, I think.

Use VCDS or other diagnostic software to view live data from this sensor while engine is running.

I think so too, especially since it started on the third try after reassembling the transmission. It's as if something isn't connected. Maybe the yellow-blue (signal) wire is actually damaged and makes contact when the ECU plug is unplugged, but then disconnects when plugged back in.

And if the signal wire is broken, will VCDS indicate a short to positive?

10 minutes ago, mlody38 said:

And if the signal wire is broken, will VCDS indicate a short to positive?

Yes, because of that pull-up resistor, if there is such a thing.

Is there any oil or other fluid inside the sensor connector?

No oil or other fluid is missing. The sensor is new.

And the contacts of the connector are clean and dry?

Yes, I even blew it out with contact spray.

Maybe something as basic/daft as the fuel pump, this won't show up as a fault on the diagnostics but you can check its resistance with a multimeter with the plug removed, you could also check that there is 12V at the plug top, you should get 12v for ~ 5 secs I think, you then lose this because the car hasn't started.

I checked the pump and it works for a few seconds after turning the key.