Following on from my Noisy Suspension thread, I attempted to remove the off-side link today merely to inspect it to see if new ones were needed.

After using penetrating oil on the top bolt, it loosened fairly easily with a 16mm socket in an extending wheel wrench. Of course, once loosened, the rod with a T30 fitting in the centre turns when the nut is loosened. I used a T30 bit in a 1/2inch T-bar to try and hold it while undoing the nut. This was hard work as you're effectively re-cutting the thread on the end and it gets more difficult as you get near the end. Anyway after a good while I got it off, so on to the bottom nut.

Working underneath the car, the bottom nut is obscured by the wheel arch trim. I removed some T25 torx screws which gave me a bit more access. Again, I undid the nut but holding the Torx bit while trying to use the spanner on the nut is even more difficult whilst working underneath the car, especially as on the off-side, the only space to move the spanner whilst the wheel arch liner is still in place is on the left which is difficult if you're right handed. I found that with the Torx bit in my electric wheel wrench I could fasten it back up whilst holding the nut with the spanner (but not undo it) , and as I'd been at it from 12:00 until 15:20 with no lunch, I decided to put everything back together.

So, anyone any tips?

Should I remove the wheel arch trim? Is there a way to clear the visible threads in the rod? Should I try some cutting oil?

Perhaps a good clean with a wire brush might clear the threads prior to applying penetrating oil. However, it might be wise to just replace them as I think some wear will be present.

Edited 10 February10 Feb by Wonky

You know what, it is at times like this that you might consider buying a suitable set of taps and dies.

I've been there done that, but quickly thought "f' this" and headed out and bought a suitable set of taps and dies, in my case, from Screwfix, which is still all intact and very much in use.

So that means that I tend to wire brush, then clean any exposed threads using a die before adding in release oil.

From memory, is the partial blocking of the ARB link nut by the car "bits" not just down to whither or not you have the car jacked up or still resting on its wheels but with them on ramps?

Edit:- I've even, before buy a suitable set of taps and dies, ended up with the Torx bit ending up expanding the section of the thread out beyond the where the nut starts from - and that really was a show stopper forcing me to chopping the end of the thread off and so trashed that ARB drop link. In my years of working on 2002 VW Polo 1.4 , 2009 SEAT Ibiza 1.4 and 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI, I've never ever found any of the drop links to be worn - which was a bit annoying for the 2002 car that I ended up chopping the end of one drop link and fitting new VW parts, the 2009 car got its original drop links refitted so the bought Febi replacements are still available, the 2015 car currently has its original drop links refitted to it, the new VW drop links are still available, but maybe I'm frightened to fit them as THEY COST A BOMB - warning, the VW Group drop links should never be bought if you can help it as buying them will hurt your wallet!

Edited 10 February10 Feb by rum4mo

Thanks for your very helpful post @rum4mo .

Until reading your last paragraph, I was starting to think I was being silly not just cutting them off and replacing the links (even the Meyle HD's are not expensive on ebay) thinking they're bound to be worn out after 80k miles, though I don't know they haven't previously been replaced (nothing in the service history to indicate they have). So, having read what you've said, I think I would like to remove one intact just to check.

My father (died nearly 40yrs ago) was a Cabinet Maker, and I have in my mum's garage somewhere, some taps and dies, but I suspect they're probably Imperial. I assume they wouldn't be compatible but would the closest size one be enough to just clean the last 3mm of the thread up? I've already wire brushed them.

I think next week I will try some Deox-Gel (rust removing gel from Bilt Hamber) left on the threads for an hour or two, maybe re-applied and left again then rinsed off and some 3 in 1 oil applied to the threads. I'll also see if I can get a small set of mole-grips on the spindle once I've loosened the nut or apply some pressure to the back of the nut with a spanner between the end of the roll bar and the nut.

Edited 10 February10 Feb by phs12

Better not to try using Imperial taps and dies on Metric stuff as that would only compound your troubles.

Note that I only ever use these taps and dies to clean up threads and never to cut new threads.

If I need to cut new threads I use “proper” quality taps and dies.

Edited 10 February10 Feb by rum4mo
Dies not died!

Ok, so last Monday I had another go at this. Again no success removing the nut on the off-side lower ARB balljoint but it suddenly dawned on me, why not take the upper balljoint nut off, remove the top of the link from its bracket and check for any play; there was no play.

What didn't occur to me until I got back home that evening was to swing the arm round and check the lower ARB balljoint for play.

So, back I went today. Jacked up both sides and sprayed penetrating oil on the near-side upper ARB balljoint nut. Left that to, well, penetrate I suppose and while I was waiting removed off-side upper ARB balljoint again and swung 90 degrees to test the lower ARB balljoint; still no excessive play as far as I could detect (there's a different (looser) feel when your holding the whole link rod but no 'play').

Back to the near-side, the nut undid easily but still had to hold the balljoint rod with the T30 bit in a T-bar. Again, no play in either balljoints.

So, while I'm under there pondering what to do next, I notice this;

Uploading Attachment...

Edited 23 February23 Feb by phs12
Photo load problem

....the rear control arm bush.

So , I shove a crow bar in, and if this 3 second video loads up, this is what I find;

Bingo, a very worn rubber bush.

So, do I replace the bush or fit a new control arm?

Looking at some Youtube videos it looks a pretty scary job involving special tools and disconnecting the driveshaft, but then I found a Mister Auto video for the Fabia Mk3 where they just undo the bolt holding the rear bush and three bolts holding the arm to the stub axle and that looks more manageable.

Video file not working, so how do I post up an MP4 video file?

Edited 23 February23 Feb by phs12
Text change

Here's a Youtube video link that will publish at 21:15 today

https://youtube.com/shorts/yXw0lFqUuLo?feature=share

It’s certainly looks well worn. Straightforward to change, you are supposed to fit new bolts when you replace the wishbones. The Mk 2 is different to the Mk1 wishbone.