Hi All,

I’ve tried everything I can and now turn to here for advice

I have a 2009 Skoda fabia 5 door hatchback where the electric driver window doesn’t work - only front electric windows

The situation is:

The driver button doesn’t lower the window

Driver button lowers passenger window ok

Passenger button lowers passenger fine

Window lowers and raises no problem when I insert the key in the driver door

Found some broken wires in the door bellows - which I’ve now repaired.

Believe I’ve checked fuses.

Tried replacing the dual window switch

I have an infamous double click for the central locking -incase relevant.

From this I believe that l:

The wiring is all working fine

The motor works - as window lowers with key

Switch is not the problem

Can anyone help me narrow down the issue further to get this working for the summer! 🙏

From your excellent investigations I would think the problem is almost certainly a corrosion problem that is affecting the driver's side motor module circuitboard.

The pin of the connector on the board which is the input which controls the right (driver's side) window from the switch, specifically.

I have posted lots of images of the sort of damage that can occur under the connector body, but can't remember which thread they are in.

I'll search out one or two examples and post here shortly.

Replacement or repair of motor will be only effective solution, I believe.

Edited 16 May16 May by Breezy_Pete

All of the above damage is produced by condensation in the gap between the plastic connector body (connectors have been unsoldered in all these images) and the board surface.

Edited 16 May16 May by Breezy_Pete

17 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

All of the above damage is produced by condensation in the gap between the plastic connector body (connectors have been unsoldered in all these images) and the board surface.

Thank you!

Please can you tell me where I find this board - the old ball and chain is a certified board repairer 👍

It's in the plastic part of the motor module.

I made a little video which shows safe removal of it, in this thread:

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/537822-front-window-going-mental/#findComment-5996101

If the steel motor casing is just pulled out without the precaution shown in the video, brush damage is very likely.

On the way to removing the board, the first step is to unclip the adaptor which connects door loom plug down onto the board.

Close scrutiny of the contact forks of this that go down to the board-mounted connector will be worthwhile before delving any deeper, as there may only be corrosion on there, but I doubt it.

(Second, obvious step is to remove the 4-off Tx20 screws holding metal motor can to plastic housing).

Edited 16 May16 May by Breezy_Pete

The damage in this picture is affecting the connection I would expect yours to have damage at. (Driver's window switch input)

Thank you so much!

Plugged the car in tonight and an error would seem to confirm your suggestion also!

The window motors have no comms with any other modules (by design). They chat only between themselves.

Don't think that scan result is related to window problem.

On 16/05/2026 at 16:43, Breezy_Pete said:

On the way to removing the board, the first step is to unclip the adaptor which connects door loom plug down onto the board.

Close scrutiny of the contact forks of this that go down to the board-mounted connector will be worthwhile before delving any deeper, as there may only be corrosion on there, but I doubt it.

(Second, obvious step is to remove the 4-off Tx20 screws holding metal motor can to plastic housing).

Here are the results of my dismantling Breezy_Pete.

I have a friend who is qualified in micro soldering, so have passed both pieces over to them for cleaning and repair!

There does to my eyes seem to be some black and green residue over the components.

Any further advice for me?

Two more!

The board damage - if present - won't be visible until the yellow-ringed connector is removed.

33 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

The board damage - if present - won't be visible until the yellow-ringed connector is removed.

Thank you Pete!

I’ll pass it along and leave it in the friends very capable hands!

Most of the pins are easy to solder-suck clear of solder for removal, the hole size is quite generous for the pins.

The two exceptions are the ground pins, which take a lot more persistence.

As we view that photo, they are the two nearest the camera in the right hand column.

It's well worth making sure every pin is free before levering the connector body away, otherwise any pins that still have webs of solder may get pulled through the plastic body of the connector.

The pins I mean :

23 hours ago, Breezy_Pete said:

The pins I mean :

Had this from my friend today Pete!

Another!

.

Needs a bit more cleaning on topside to see clearly, but possible short to ground plane here, which is the connection that is giving trouble, I think:

5 hours ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Needs a bit more cleaning on topside to see clearly, but possible short to ground plane here, which is the connection that is giving trouble, I think:

Had these to say all done!

Excited to try it back in the car, will be sure to post the outcome

23 hours ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Needs a bit more cleaning on topside to see clearly, but possible short to ground plane here, which is the connection that is giving trouble, I think:

Refitted today, and everything’s almost the same.

Internal switch still doesn’t work, window goes down with key in outside lock.

Only change is window goes up a fraction each time with the key in outside of door - it used to go up with one turn.

8 minutes ago, Josephineyy said:

Refitted today, and everything’s almost the same.

Internal switch still doesn’t work, window goes down with key in outside lock.

Only change is window goes up a fraction each time with the key in outside of door - it used to go up with one turn.

I'll message you about getting a known good motor to you as a diagnostic aid.

My next suggestion is to clean the contacts of the adaptor connector that goes onto that board-mounted connector.

In this photo of yours there's some crusty green corrosion residue in a few places, and I think I can see some on the contacts of the fork that goes onto the driver's window switch contact pin on the circuitboard. Ringed below.

Also it is probably worth gently and carefully squeezing these contact pairs together, to improve the contact pressure when it is fitted back down onto the circuitboard. The legs of the forks are quite long, so I think they can open up a bit over the years which maybe unhelpful.

You may as well clean up all the contact surfaces of all of those fork pins while you're at it.

All the fork pins were cleaned when the board was re soldered.

I will check their angle and give them a pinch on my next dismantling!

Mananged to find a replacement motor to try for £20 too, just waiting on the postage!

All done and still no good, 🤦‍♀️