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Collecting RS petrol at 11am tommorrow


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:D

So what do I check ?

Already mentioned to sales guy to remove suspension packing, make sure tyre pressure is right, dewax and wash car but do it right and use a sponge not a brush. Was reluctant to let them near it but saw the job they did on the showroom car and hardly any swirl lines.

I guess I check for the usual scratches, dents, loose trim, warning lights..blah.

When driving the thing over the next few weeks should I keep it under a certain speed or rpm. Last RS, I just floored it from day 1 and maybe that contributed to high oil consumption. Some people have told me these things are road tested first and I can do what I want. Others say the wheels, bearings etc.. need to be in and keep it below 50mph for first 1000miles.

Also - cruise control - how does that work. Is it on the wheel or stalk. Last thing I want to do is set it by mistake and not be able to unset it. And how do the rain sensitive wipers work ? About the only 2 things I am not familiar with.

Finally - what is the correct pressure for 18" tyres, and when you get the wheel alignment done (geometry, tracking, whatever) do you trust your local tyre kickers (mine did not and still does not have settings for the old RS even - nationwide outfit known as Advance Tyres) or bring it to main dealer (my dealer does it manually as they don't have the laser gear).

Oh yeah..almost forgot..on the 18" are they tyres hard compound jobs which will wear after 12k miles (like the Dunlop 2000's on my last RS) even with normal driving. And what is the tyre of choice these days ? Assuming I want something that is going to last 20k miles+

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tyres will be a one of many nthat seem to be coming out of the factory at the mo.

Cruise is easy, you'll work it out just looking at the stalk.

Most people seem to run 30psi in tyres and wear seems consistant

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Well - collected it at 3pm today. They had it ready, so signed a couple of forms and that was that. Transferred over insurance. No increase in premium this year at all (insurance up this month) despite bigger engine and newer car so happy with that. Then again, no decrease in premium :(

Only drove the car 20km home and nowhere else today as dying with the flu but am well impressed. For some reason the mark1 felt a bit nippier in the lower gears but that was putting out over 225bhp. Anyway, the car definitely feels more solid to me. And holds the road better, and it seems like you are higher up in the cabin compared to the mark1. Kept it around 80kph all the way home.

I personally like the fit and finish - some people I know think it's too bling. And I like the improvements on the seats. I am a bit heavy and on the last RS, the padding on the side bolsters on the seat went through the frame after a short period of time. These seats feel a bit wider :) Overall everything about it is better. Also regarding, when I got onto the home stretch where the road is particuilarly grainy and tends to cause rattles in most cars (even my mark1 rs on 16's from new) there was not a sound out of this. Of course I do expect rattles eventually. Price of driving on crappy roads with low profile tyres.

By the way - the discs in my car are red not green. Always though green discs for petrol and red for diesel ? Damn..maybe they sold me a diesel by mistake !!

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By the way - the discs in my car are red not green. Always though green discs for petrol and red for diesel ? Damn..maybe they sold me a diesel by mistake !!

All Octavia RS's Petrol and Deisel have red calipers now, it was a model year change-so alls well- enjoy

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yeah..it didn't feel like a diesel to be honest. Knew from the rev counter anyway.

just hoping I don't get the suspension creaking problem. already informed my dealer about reports of it. hopefully it was sorted in the late 06 cars on.

damn...I forgot to collect the touchup stick...thinking ahead I am :)

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:D When driving the thing over the next few weeks should I keep it under a certain speed or rpm. Last RS, I just floored it from day 1 and maybe that contributed to high oil consumption. Some people have told me these things are road tested first and I can do what I want. Others say the wheels, bearings etc.. need to be in and keep it below 50mph for first 1000miles.

err...yes you should keep it under a certain engine rpm, it should say in the handbook, but no more than, about, 3500rpm for the first 1000 miles.

the car (especially the engine) is still tight from the factory and gunning it to the redline, or close to it, will, to be honest, wreck it, in the same way as revving it hard from cold.

hope this is of use, enjoy the vrs fella.

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err...yes you should keep it under a certain engine rpm, it should say in the handbook, but no more than, about, 3500rpm for the first 1000 miles.

the car (especially the engine) is still tight from the factory and gunning it to the redline, or close to it, will, to be honest, wreck it, in the same way as revving it hard from cold.

hope this is of use, enjoy the vrs fella.

You could read this: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

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Thanks. He seems to advocate driving the engine hard from day 1.

Anyway, manual says to avoid high revs, do not use full throttle, and do not go beyond 3/4 max speed of any gear for first thousand km. And then gradually increase up to 1500km.

I'll just keep it at 80kph or below and use common sense with the gears.

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Keep it at 80 kph? May as well plan your next day's overtaking maneouvres in your dreams the night before. Current advice seems to recommend that you run a car in "positively" ie not too low a speed and certainly not too low revs through the gears. Plenty of variable revs ( don't leave it at the same revs on the motorway, slow down, speed up) iand gear changes up to a limit (3,000 for for first 500 miles and gradually increase it over the next 1500 miles ) and definitely don't labour it in any gear and you should end up with a properly run in engine that gives you manufacturers performance or better and doesn't drink oil. :) thumbup:

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Thanks for the advice. Will just drive normally then. Although not much driving now as stuck at home sick :( Collected it Friday. 30km up. And it's sitting outside the door since. It's bloody killing me !!

By the way, where is the best place to order the touch up stick (I know I will need it eventually). Dealer is crap at getting these things.

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By the way, where is the best place to order the touch up stick (I know I will need it eventually). Dealer is crap at getting these things.

Ring your dealer and order the part mentioned here, http://www.briskoda.net/forums/new-octavia/race-blue-touch-up-paint-now-available/60530/?highlight=blue+touch

I have got one and so did Mcgyver so it should be listed in MDL.

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Cheers. Unfortunately they are "slow" getting stuff. It took 6 months to get a replacement vrs badge for my Mk1 which a **** ripped off with a screwdriver breaking my front grille in a few places and damaging the radiator !!!

By the way, I recommend this. Have been using it for years. If you do a good job you can't tell where the chip was after you have finished.

LANGKA Paint Chip and Scratch Repair

Can't believe the word cha..v is starred out.

Well....scobe then :)

(just ordered 150€ of car detailing stuff :)

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