A member recently wrote the following in answer to a recent query re: 1.8T engine reliability.

'The engine is well-known for its capabilities of being tuned and its reliability, ONLY IF THE OWNER ensures a good maintenance and drives it properly (taking into consideration some basic rules regarding a turbo engine).

In reference to the following quote;

'taking into consideration some basic rules regarding a turbo engine'

I have recently bought a VRS 1.8T and am intrigued to know what basic rules entail, especially if it will prolong the life / maintain performance of my engine / car.

Please let me have your thoughts

Appreciated,

Steve H.

Regular oil changes with a quality oil is essential.

regular oil changes is a must on a turbocharged engine....

also allow the engine to cool after a high speed run before switching off...

get the timing belt changed at the right intervals or sooner

edit: beat me to it:D

And also it letting it warm up properly before giving it beans. Keep the revs low from cold too.

If you can afford it, use the better petrol.

And also don't baby the car when it's warmed up - give it "death"!

Chris

and in my opinion while driving, gradually push the pedal to the metal, if you want to that is, instead of just banging it down. seems to drive smoother and saves the turbo from trying to max itself out from nothing rather than building up like its designed to.

hope that makes sense to you!

regular checks and the above really.

Oh and good garage you can trust if your not too good with a spanner

Oil, Oil, Oil..

If you "use" your turbo engine "properly" the oil, and how it behaves and is treated, plays a large part in looking after it.

Use a good quality oil and change it regularly - none of this daft (IMHO) 12K mile service change intervals, change it every 6000 or so, it costs so little to do.

The oil isn't just some slippery stuff that lives in the engine for the fun of it, it cools as much as it lubricates, and carries away combustion by-products, leaving all that stuff floating around in there for 12k+ miles doesn't do it any favours.

As said, warm it up properly before giving it beans - that means warming the OIL up not just when the coolant temp gauge shows warm, it will take 5+miles of normal driving to be properly warm.

Also cool down properly, if you have been driving quickly, let the engine run for half a minute or so (*edit* if you've been properly caning it immediately beforehand, leave it running a few minutes) before switching off, that will let the turbo run down and let the oil take away the worst of the heat from the core, that would otherwise end up baking burnt oil deposits onto the bearing assembly over time.

If you want to get the best out of it, use decent fuel - the additional cost is so minimal and the benefits far outweigh the extra cost. The 180bhp vRS is designed to run with 97/98RON fuel and although it "will" run on 95, the difference in performance is marked, as a result of the management system retarding the ignition in response to engine knock on the lower RON fuel - this in itself isn't doing the engine any favours at the best of times. For anyone that doesn't believe this, take a look at ignition knock retard component values on VAGCOM while you drive MPG will likely improve slightly too.

Not engine-related, but if you've been using the brakes hard and they are hot, don't apply the handbrake immediately until the discs have cooled, this will avoid heat distortion of the discs.

Regarding a good choice of 'quality' oil. What specific brand or type is best. when I was driving my Polo G40 and other VDubs it seemed 'Quanta Syntha' (SP?!) was often recommended. Haven't got a clue what my present 1.8t Golf is using (although I should know!). Please excuse my ignorance, but I recon I'd like to do it properly with my new Mk2 vRS when it arrives.

Cheers,

M

There are some basic rules for each engine car, written in its service manual. BUT, regarding the turbo engines, one should have some "inner circle" knowledge to run it properly...hereby are several hints (please read as much as you can in the net about this 1.8T, it is important to know every issue which could arise at one moment):

- after ignition (let the leds in the dash go out first!), allow the engine to run about a minute or so (especially when the weather is cold!) before move on.

- the temptation to run fast and to push it hard is a fact, but never drive sportly BEFORE the engine temperature indicator shows a normal condition (90C) > let the engine warm up!

- pay attention to the service intervals and any other service operations (all related to the miles/km of the car) such as: brakes, oils, filters, cambelt, etc.

Gas RON 98, not less - risk of detonations, use oils with VAG 503.00 specification (0W40, 5W40) from known brands: ARAL, Mobil 1, etc

- after the engine warms up, you can feel its power. Be as quick as you wish....BUT once you've decided to stop and turn it off, allow the turbine to chill: let the engine run 3 minutes with the car immobilized!

I do not say I know everything but if you have further questions, feel free to ask. I have a 4-year experience with this engine on my last 2 cars - both Octavia.

would you recommend using an engine flush? before changing the oil or would this be bad for the bearing's in the turbo ?also what is the best oil to use i know its 0w40 but which brand is best for price e.t.c

i've used engine oil flush before and imho it doesn't make an awefull lot of difference

If the oil is changed regularly there should be no need to flush.

Also worth noting that just because the coolant is up to temp, doesn't mean the oil is...

would you recommend using an engine flush? before changing the oil or would this be bad for the bearing's in the turbo ?also what is the best oil to use i know its 0w40 but which brand is best for price e.t.c

I would say that until 100.000km 0W30/40 for a turbo engine is good, than 5W40 it is more appropriate.

Take a look at the tabel hereby:

Righto Which Brand Do I Get Then? Mobil 1 Perhaps, As I Will Be Changing My Oil As Suggested Every 6k Or So, And Is There Any Specific Brand Of Oil Filter Or Do I Just Get One From A Dealer

If the oil is changed regularly there should be no need to flush.

Also worth noting that just because the coolant is up to temp, doesn't mean the oil is...

good advice

Try Opie Oils I get my oil from there 'Silkolene Pro S 5W 40' it was recommended to me when I had my Subaru Legacy Turbo (excess of 220BHP) and it has been recommended for my 1.8T. Lots of good advice from the guys I would take it all on board. Hammer the car before it and the oil has warmed up properly and you will hammer the turbo in no time...new turbo = big bucks.

- after ignition (let the leds in the dash go out first!), allow the engine to run about a minute or so (especially when the weather is cold!) before move on.

.

I dont see the point in doing this, you want to get the oil moving around the engine as soon as possible, not the engine idling and the oil sitting in the sump.

Righto Which Brand Do I Get Then? Mobil 1 Perhaps, As I Will Be Changing My Oil As Suggested Every 6k Or So, And Is There Any Specific Brand Of Oil Filter Or Do I Just Get One From A Dealer

Costco do 4l of 0w40 Mobil 1 for £24 inc vat IIRC.

P.S. Why do you type every letter with a Capital?

I dont see the point in doing this, you want to get the oil moving around the engine as soon as possible, not the engine idling and the oil sitting in the sump.

I understand perfectly your point, but one minute in colder winter days won't hurt any engine.

But whats your theory about hanging around, how does that benefit the engine?

But whats your theory about hanging around, how does that benefit the engine?

the principle is that it allows a small amount of heat into the oil to bring the viscosity down to aid flow before the engine gets loaded, also gives the oil pump drive an easier time when the rpm is then increased with normal driving. I doubt this is practically a significant issue with this particular engine, especially with modern low viscosity oils, but I have known situations in the past where oil pump drives have actually sheared due to the load of trying to pump cold thick oil too quickly :eek: !

I have known situations in the past where oil pump drives have actually sheared due to the load of trying to pump cold thick oil too quickly :eek: !

ford cvh anybody?? i've seen these shear off the oil pump drive before

ford cvh anybody?? i've seen these shear off the oil pump drive before

yep, and ford cross-flow, and pinto