cv joints - 1.3 felicia - 1998

[fel123]

Hi everyone

Got a few questions about CV (constant velocity joints):-

1) How long (in mileage terms) would you expect CV joints to last?

2) What causes them to fail?

3) What would be the symptoms of a failed or failing CV joint?

4) Would it cause a MOT failure?

5) How much would they cost to replace? and would you need to do both at the same time?

Thanks in advance

[bobob]

Because CV joints on drive axles are used to transfer torque from the engine to the driving wheels, they are often operated under high stress. The joints are lubricated in manufacture, and a flexible boot installed to seal the joint from dust and moisture. The boots can crack or tear, which will allow the entry of moisture or dirt, the deterioration of the lubricant, and the accelerated wear of the joint or its components. Even in cases where the boot is not damaged, the joint can wear over time. Often the wear exhibits itself as shallow grooves formed in the tracks.

A defective joint will usually be manifest by a rhythmic clicking sound when the joint is flexed and under load, or in more extreme cases by significant vibration. The clicking is especially predominant when the vehicle is under load, such as when accelerating around a turn. Indeed, oftentimes a defective joint will not exhibit the telltale clicking, even with the joint flexed, if the joint is not operated under significant load.

I've never had a cv joint failure since my days of driving a mk1 mini, but i've had plenty of cracked/torn cv boots, guess i've been lucky or the MOT has spotted the tear in time

[KenONeill]

1) Years and years as a rule.

2) Bad luck, or loss of lubricant from a torn boot, as a rule.

3) Rythmic clonking noises, louder when the car's on lock turning towards the good side (IIRC, if I don't the clonks are louder when turning towards the bad side).

4) A ripped CV boot certainly will, in which case a failing joint should. A completely failed joint certainly does, because the car can't be driven.

5) Both? There are 4 CV joints on a typical FWD car, 2 inners and 2 outers. Depending on make and model, you may be able to replace each joint individually, or need to replace a driveshaft. There is no need to replace the good shaft just because the other one's gone.

[flabio]

I had my driveshaft replaced at about 60,000 miles on my 98 felicia,it cost

[fel123]

Is it possible to attach sound files to these posts,

so that u guys can here the noise?

thanks

[fel123]

Update: -

Have checked the rubber boots and they all seem ok, (No tears, and no sign of grease sprayed all over the place).

Could the CV joint still have failed with the rubber boots all intact?

The noise isn't there when driving in a straight line.

thanks

[KenONeill]

Yes, it's possible for a CV joint to fail without the boot having torn first.

[pinkskud]

my old mk1 felly did 10,000 miles on two shreaded boots, had no probs

probley wouldnt have lasted to much longer mind.

[fel123]

ok, it sounds like the cv joint has gone, as the clicking/clunking noise disappears when driving in a straight line, and when turning but foot off the accelerator pedal.

However, as all the rubber boots are still intact, how do i know which one has gone?

How much would it cost to fit a cv joint?

Are they easy to do?

Can it be DIY job?

Thanks

[blinkinink]

i had a cv joint failure once on a felicia a while back, due to a torn cv boot, loss of lubricant. The symptoms in my case were a severe rocking of the steering wheel peridoically, what i later found out is that each time it started rocking, i was losing a bearing from the cv joint i was very lucky that as the last one was falling out, i was on the motorway and pulled into the services (just, after driving about 2 miles on the hard shoulder at about 20mph with the steering wheel rocking side to side) put the car on full lock, and heard a loud clunk, at this point the last ball bearing had dropped out, and the shaft was just spinning in the casing. i wasn't going anywhere

as for replacing, yes nice and easy if i recall, all i did was remove the roadwheel, undo the centre hub bolt (possibly the track rod arm as well, i can't remember, was a while ago i did it) then pull shocker away from the cv joint, sliding them apart. then tap the cv joint from behind towards you, holding the driveshaft into the gearbox firmly, it should pop off its circlip, and then just tap the new one into place after greasing it up nicely. best bet there is to hold the cv joint frimly at the back of it, and line up the bearing straight so it should tap right on. did it on both sides jus to eb safe as i never knew when the other one might pop its clogs

cost wise, silly as it might sound,i used a second hand one that i checked over, was in ok condtion, just made sure it was well greased up. make sure you put plenty of grease in the boot too when you put it back on, jus so there is some suplus.

hope this helps, (all be it a bit long winded)