These would be stored for the purpose of replacing bits that fail. The donor is a GLXi (135 engine) and the potential recipient a GLXIe (136). AFAIK the car has been stood almost 3 years and has not been dry stored. My list of possibilities so far includes:

Mirrors.

Headlight units +reflectors etc.

Fog light lenses (so I can try out some high wattage bulbs maybe hehe).

Radiator with fan, and possibly expansion tank.

Alternator.

Fuse box.

Switch panels from dashboard.

Passenger seat.

I have been considering removing the top of the engine (cylinder head) also, along with all the parts within it (not sure I feel up to stripping something like this). This would give me practice of working on an engine (to for example replace a head gasket) and if I ever need any of these bits then I have a spare. I'm guessing these aren't prone to those sort of problems though? Also not sure what makes the 135 physically different to the 136 (I think it's the valves themselves so the top of the engine wouldn't be any different?!)

Are there any other bits that may be prone to failure/problems that are relatively easy to take out?

Thanks in advance.

Rear lights

The screws look very rusted on the rear lights but will try on those that remain. I wonder if I can simply select a small drill piece and drill through without causing damage.

Hmmm, the head may be worth keeping for sure.

ECU is a must!

The 135 is a lower compression engine, the only difference to my knowledge is the pistons. One of the engine has flat topped pistons, the other engine has dish topped pistons.

All seats, and steering wheel, if they've better trim on the GLX.

the car. just keep the whole car!

ps if either have smoked rear lights i will pay you handsomely for them...

It's my GF's Dad's. He's had it on the drive for a few years and now wants rid ASAP so the space can be used to park and the place looks a bit nicer. My tailgate is rusting through but AFAIK the one on the other is even worse than mine. When I get some time (never seem to have any of it :( ) want to try do something with the rust. All I can think is wire brush, something like kurust, wire brush, white spirit, aluminum tape and some sort of paint across it. Could also spray some anti-rust spray inside the cavity that I have from Lidl but my guess is it's just a glorified WD40.

Unfortunately no smoked headlights on either favorit and one headlight bit is already removed. (I think these only supplied on the blackline/silverline models?) I've seen a favorit blackline occasionally parked at the pub around the corner. Nice to know these cars are still on the road.

I have seen people say there are x number of these cars left on the road. I wonder how they found that out and if it's possible to see how many favorits are still registered?!

ISTR there's a way of finding out how many of are still registered throught the DVLA. Of course, the DVLA are on record as saying that 1/3 of their data are inaccurate.

I have stripped about 4 MOT failure favorits for spares. I always take the starter motor if it is good - very hard to get new now. The seat belts are worth taking as these fray - a friends car failed MOT on belts and I was able to give him a set. All the plastic poppers are worth keeping and if you have an elderly relative like I do as a passenger who keeps getting their foot caught on the plastic trim over the door sill they are worth keeping.

keep the whole dash - the circuit boards are getting expensive. If you live near a rough area keep the window glass incase some little **** decides to smash yours.

Basically just think of anything that you could need say in a years time when Skoda will not want to know about it and keep it.

How heavy is the cylinder head with inlet and exhaust manifolds likely to be? Is it a one man or two man job to lift out? I would assume as it's aluminium it should be more bulky than anything.

(This is assuming my GF's dad doesn't mind me taking it, even though it's off to scrap). Guess it would be good to clean one up in my spare time, clean the throttle body etc etc and renew the valve seals etc etc etc (hopefully I'm not too far ahead of myself, but at least practice on something that isn't critical can't cause any harm.)

Also just found out the ECU's are different for the 135 and 136.

135 PN = 004 046 011

136 PN = 004 046 008

Coil just went on my daughters car - an early felicia which has same coil as the Favorit.

Garage quoted her

cylinder head weighs not too much, exhaust manifold is quite the heavy though. you'll probably be able to get it in one go if you've much muscle, but i'd recommend taking the manifolds off first if you can.

like i said before though, everything. if the boot and bonnet are rust-free, them, as well as all your lights... even the bumpers, the wheels, c'mon man - only scrap the empty shell!

Don't suppose anyone knows if getting someone to take away a car as scrap is likely to cost anything these days?! Even if all that's left is a rusty shell? (Worst case scenario in somewhat remotish south wales).

I could do with an estate parcel shelf / load cover if there's a spare one anywhere...

Simon H

scrap metal is high, around

I could do with an estate parcel shelf / load cover if there's a spare one anywhere...

Simon H

Sorry to dissapoint but if there is one (not 100% sure) I doubt the condition would be good as the rear screen was used as a donor for my car, after an antifreeze can in the sun exploded (was previous owner not me, lol). I think water will have leaked in. Anyway if it turns out I have either bit spare that's useable will drop you a PM, you're not a million miles away as I'm near Leeds centre.

You're not selling a used starter motor on Ebay by any chance? Just wondering as you and the seller are both in Cleckheaton.

No, it's not me selling a starter motor. Thanks for the info about the parcel shelf - let me know if it's any good and we'll sort something out.

Cheers,

Simon H