:( I didn't check that before I went & paid a tenner for a coil. Still no return through the green ign. wire so it's NOT the coil! Though I do now have a spare... (And a spare ECU & Hall sender :lol:).

OK, now how do I find pin 24 on the ECU plug to test the green lead for a circuit?

(From an unrelated thread)

Well with your felicia, what the problem?

YouTube - Piece of **** Car Music Video Please, only for the liberal minded!

The problem is no spark, specifically, no earth return from the coil through the ECU, so the ECU isn't giving the go-ahead to cause the coil to charge & discharge; none of the sensors - swapped out the Hall, no difference, bypassed the Immob, no difference, none of the temp or pressure fuel side sensors would shut the ign down apparently (I have doubts about the manifold temp sensor, it affects the MPi unit) would cause this problem. Yet it remains.

ECU Knackered

Freekin' Ada!!! Just been quoted £530 + for a new Skoda part.

I was also advised that BBA-reman repair them. I'll check the site to see if they still exist.

Yeah try them, weve used them before...

The prices are a bit steep for them but it depends how much you value the car, thats what i say to customers.

Thanks. I phoned them; £35 for a test or £215 for test & repair + P&P. There's also a company in Ilkeston, Derbyshire called ECUTesting.com Automotive ECU suppliers and their prices are similar.

I'm actually going back to the idea of the Hall Sender, a new one may be in order as I have a 2nd hand ECU & despite bypassing the immob, that failed to work too. Two duff Halls beats two duff ECUs.

Chances are ECU according to my walking skoda bible here....But keep trying!

I was shocked last week to find my "N" plate 1.3 had an immobilizer! I found this out by trying the spare key to start the car after a flat battery, with no immobilizer the car starts but will not run. The key contains a small transponder thats it no lights or any other features

I was shocked last week to find my "N" plate 1.3 had an immobilizer! I found this out by trying the spare key to start the car after a flat battery, with no immobilizer the car starts but will not run. The key contains a small transponder thats it no lights or any other features

It was a surprise to me too! (And I've read your thread )

Hmmm just think all the extra insurance you've paid when you declared it on the insurance as not having an immobiliser :eek::(:(

Hmmm just think all the extra insurance you've paid when you declared it on the insurance as not having an immobiliser :eek::(:(

WHAT A VERY VERY GOOD POINT!!! Thank you! (I'm only about £150 anyway, but still...)

Update:

Definitely NOT the hall sender, thankfully Farmers will take it back

I did notice, whilst I've been playing, that the white 4 contact socket behind the evaporation cannister (passenger bulkhead) is corroded really badly, so much so that one of the wires has fallen out :eek:

Is this the VAGcom socket and might it have shorted out as a consequence of the corrosion? What effect would it have if it did short? (Probably not good :()

Hi there

can't help you with the plug but all this points to two possibilities for me:

1. faulty wiring to the coil

2. the ecu not reading the transponder thingymajig

I would go for the 2nd option as i am pretty sure that this prevents the ecu from sending power to the coil but will crank over the engine. I know you say that you have had the key matched and everything but i think the problem may well lie here.

One thing to try is to turn the ignition on for a minute without starting it. This resets the ECU to my knowledge and may help i don't know.

Found the VAG com, it's not that connector:

The connector is in the drivers footwell to the right of the steering wheel, a mirror image of where the bonnet release handle is. You can check:

6U,Skoda Felicia,01,03,15,25,41

Engine, ABS, Air Bag, Immobliser and Diesel Electronics.

Hi there

can't help you with the plug but all this points to two possibilities for me:

1. faulty wiring to the coil

2. the ecu not reading the transponder thingymajig

I would go for the 2nd option as i am pretty sure that this prevents the ecu from sending power to the coil but will crank over the engine. I know you say that you have had the key matched and everything but i think the problem may well lie here.

One thing to try is to turn the ignition on for a minute without starting it. This resets the ECU to my knowledge and may help i don't know.

Thanks Harry,

1. Yeah, considered that and it would be the green wire from the coil to pin 24 on the ECU to test. I have no idea which one pin 24 is and I don't really want to go sending 12v down any old circuit. The whole connector appears to be sealed so there's no way of finding it visually.

2. Again, wiring loom... (maybe ECU)

I'll try the minute ignition on ANYTHING! lol

What's frustrating about this is that I'm 49 and I got trained as a mechanic 32 years ago. This is the FIRST car problem I've had that I could not fix myself.

Any news? Its like a movie. I just have to know how it ends!

Now myself i dont have any knowledge from skoda. I have never been under the hood of one. But have you checked the distrubitor(sp?). Or is the problem even before that one?

I also have another experience from audi: is the engine properly earted to the body?? I could not get my audi to start after a engine swap. Turns out it i had forgotten to connect the earthing strap. But its unlikly you get it to turn without the earth so i doubt it.

Only suggestions. its a bit difficult with the language and not being able to see the problem with my own eyes.

If this 4 pin connector has a blanking plug over the top of it (or it's missing and nothing's plugged in) then that's the diagnostic connector for the Bosch monomotronic system (but it's not the same as the usual vag com ones). As for what would happen I think one is a positive 12v wire so that might not have a good effect being earthed out.

There's also another one in front of it I think which has a plug with wires coming out of it plugged in.

What's frustrating about this is that I'm 49 and I got trained as a mechanic 32 years ago. This is the FIRST car problem I've had that I could not fix myself.

Damned computers :thumbdwn:

If this 4 pin connector has a blanking plug over the top of it (or it's missing and nothing's plugged in) then that's the diagnostic connector for the Bosch monomotronic system (but it's not the same as the usual vag com ones). As for what would happen I think one is a positive 12v wire so that might not have a good effect being earthed out.

There's also another one in front of it I think which has a plug with wires coming out of it plugged in.

Damned computers :thumbdwn:

Woo post 201 :lol:

Thanks, I thought I'd caught sight of you saying that in another thread a while ago. It's a loose white socket with a brown, a black/red, a green/black and a yellow wire all double connected (i.e. they run live past it) and part of the dashboard/body/lighting loom rather than the engine loom.

Yellow may go to the tacho, though it's a different guage wire from the yellow coming from the engine loom. (This is the one with most corrosion).

Brown's earth & is an open ended connection.

I find only one reference to a Green/Black wire engine to cockpit & that's the ignition switched live to the ECU... Well it's not that, but in testing it, my central locking has stopped working :confused:

Now I'm REALLY confused!

That will be a fuse, the loose yellow caught one of the other wires in the back of the connector block & a big yellow wire is the main feed to the central locking - fuse 16. Popped!

No, that isn't the "funny connector" for the Bosch monomotronic ECU. Oh well, back to the drawing board...

Any news? Its like a movie. I just have to know how it ends!

Now myself i dont have any knowledge from skoda. I have never been under the hood of one. But have you checked the distrubitor(sp?). Or is the problem even before that one?

I also have another experience from audi: is the engine properly earted to the body?? I could not get my audi to start after a engine swap. Turns out it i had forgotten to connect the earthing strap. But its unlikly you get it to turn without the earth so i doubt it.

Only suggestions. its a bit difficult with the language and not being able to see the problem with my own eyes.

Thanks, it feels like an episode from the Outer Limits to be honest :P

No, no nothing else has come to light other than a possible engine loom swap out. :eek:

Yes, engine turns and no, no spark nor a return feed from the coil to the ECU. It's looking more and more like the ECU is dead :(

If you have a haynes there is hopefully a wiring diagram at the back which will hopefully show the wires you mention, but the diagram will probably take time to interpret.

Yes, they're not straightforward, are they?

Anyways, I'm going to test the loom by unplugging all the sensors etc. (to prevent damage, tho only the Hall is not 12v) and go from there... If the ignition green makes a circuit (I'll test each ECU connector in turn, including the earths) then it's the ECU that's died. If I don't get any feed through the green, then it's the loom.

(I could get a car that runs for less than the cost of repairing the ECU - and definitely for the cost of a replacement - they're even £400 from Butts!)

Preliminary tests on the loom suggest a problem there, I'll open the ECU connector up & double check from the contact.

There was no circuit from conract to contact so I've bypassed the green ing. wire so now there IS a circuit from contact to contact - still no go! I'll have to check for spark again now - this gets more baffling by the moment lol - and kinda more depressing :(

Anyone know of a carb/points conversion?

Convert the whole thing too carbs and make ur own wiring loom! Call it a "performance upgrade"!

If I fitted pedals & a bicycle chain it would be a performance upgrade at the moment

Hmmm this is a tricky one isnt it

Ok not a wiring expert or anything but from the wiring diagram there is reference to an ignition amplifier labelled 63.

is this seperate from the coil and between the ecu and coil?

if so perhaps this is the problem??

:confused:

Hi Harry,

thanks for your input.

As 3 wires go to this item and 3 wires go to the coil (& not 2) then I'm pretty sure this is part of the coil (though why Haynes make it a separate component, I have no idea :confused: :thumbdwn:).

I think I'll swap the ECU out now I've got a circuit on the green ign wire. At least if I get the immobiliser start then stop problem I'll know I'm somewhere in the right ballpark.

One thing I haven't given much consideration to is the relays, though they look like they only affect the fuel side (other than what goes on in the ECU ).

Well spotted anyway, Five stars :P

I just had one of those weird remembering moments... A couple of days before it broke down, the tickover stayed up at the fast 1000rpm rather than drop to the normal 6/700. I usually check the temp guage whilst driving though that particular memory is missing atm.

Not the "dreaded coolant temp sender effect" is it? It ran perfectly well other than that & I dismissed it as a one off...

How u doing? Im still waiting for the solution here!!!

I guess your still doing the same since no update in a while but. Im getting abit nervous about getting a felicia because of all the problems with them not starting, ecu blown and etc here on this forum. Guessing its not the same problem with the diesel?