One thing I have just noticed; the rev counter doesn't move when trying to start it. Would you mind trying to start yours with the king lead disconnected & see if your rev counter moves please? (It doesn't even move with the plugs out.

:iagree: although I guess forums like ****roen one's get people with more car problems

Yeah, because citroens are all unreliable and ****, unlike Skodas which never break down or have quality issues. At least citroen don't bend you over and f**k you up the a*se with servicing costs higher than a BMW unlike VAG.

Yeah, because citroens are all unreliable and ****, unlike Skodas which never break down or have quality issues. At least citroen don't bend you over and f**k you up the a*se with servicing costs higher than a BMW unlike VAG.

I've never had a car that hasn't broken down, nor heard of one that's over 10 years old that hasn't either

I've never had a car that hasn't broken down

I'm not surprised reading your sig of past wheels

At least citroen don't bend you over and f**k you up the a*se with servicing costs higher than a BMW...

:iagree:

...long before anything serious happened to the machinery in my beloved Citroën GS it was corroded to a heap of rusty dust :rofl:

...long before anything serious happened to the machinery in my beloved Citroën GS it was corroded to a heap of rusty dust :rofl:

:rofl:

One thing I have just noticed; the rev counter doesn't move when trying to start it. Would you mind trying to start yours with the king lead disconnected & see if your rev counter moves please? (It doesn't even move with the plugs out.

Haven't tried with disconnected lead but noticed when leaving work that the rev counter doesn't move until engine's up and running (i.e. just having the starter turning is not enough).

Guess it has something to do with that the starter relay cuts off a lot of electrical thingys.

So I would say it's perfectly normal?

Thanks (I tried it with the plugs out too and still no revs, so I'd tend to agree)

I'm not surprised reading your sig of past wheels

I had the Zephyr for a week & it broke down twice!

Im guessing i know what Psyzygy wants for christmas...... =)

Any more luck?

Im guessing i know what Psyzygy wants for christmas...... =)

Any more luck?

As I've got both spark & fuel plus engine turning over, compression, clean plugs, reasonably clean air filter ects reconnected (& tried with it disconnected again) and STILL not even attempting to fire, I think another plug into a computer is needed (after running the battery down again :lol:). Luck? :rotz:

Eh... that sounds amazing. Never heard of such a thing. Fuel, spark compression and air. Thats all you need.

Do you have a solid spark? If so have you tried running it on "starting gas"(norwegian name"?

So lets say you have 100% spark.

Where did you check the fuel? Fuel pressure? Fuel pump running?

Fuel in cylinders? If you do not have fuel reaching the cylinders something could be wrong in the throttlebody(sp?)

But then hopefully it would start with start gas.

I think i remember reading that you checked the ignition timing?

I would try to get the computer but also going back to basics. Could you get it to jump if you "gave it a drink" as we say in norwegian (pour a little gas into the cylinder?

Cold-start: car fires then dies (BIG improvement )

This also means that it has a fuel problem, despite there being petrol on the plugs when the car is cranked... OR the immobiliser

Aaaaaarrrgghhhhhhh!!!!................

Cold-start: car fires then dies (BIG improvement )

This also means that it has a fuel problem, despite there being petrol on the plugs when the car is cranked... OR the immobiliser

Aaaaaarrrgghhhhhhh!!!!................

so we've got spark now, but not enough boomjuice....

possible problems I can think of are...

Fuel Pressure reg not working/holed.

Leaking pipe dropping pressure.

Injector blocked

Failed Fuel pump relay.(if the spi uses one..I'm basing my ideas on my bmw fuelsystems)

Fuel pump clogged/ not priming properly...

I'd start at the business end if there is no teltale whining/buzzing from the pump.

One of the first things I noticed was the fuel pump running then cutting once pressure was gained

The fuel relay clicks

No fuel leaks

There is SOME fuel getting to the plugs, so I'm thinking (and as the car has done well over 40 000 miles) that the fuel filter may be blocked... Thankfully I have jack & axle stands :P

I will also invest in some throttle body cleaner

One of the first things I noticed was the fuel pump running then cutting once pressure was gained

The fuel relay clicks

No fuel leaks

There is SOME fuel getting to the plugs, so I'm thinking (and as the car has done well over 40 000 miles) that the fuel filter may be blocked... Thankfully I have jack & axle stands :P

I will also invest in some throttle body cleaner

god, we make a good team:thumbup:

god, we make a good team:thumbup:

That's coz we're on Briskoda all the time

(I had the last post on 17 of the first page of threads once :lol:)

That's coz we're on Briskoda all the time

(I had the last post on 17 of the first page of threads once :lol:)

heh!

briskwhores:thumbup:

thing is, we actually give some advice, and try to help...

How old is the fuel filter?

It says in the haynes manual that the fuel filter should be replaced every 40K, under the maintenance section. If its clogged it may be your problem. Good luck in fixing it.

How old is the fuel filter?

Ummmmmmm... How old is the car? It's done 72k and the filter probably has never been changed

It says in the haynes manual that the fuel filter should be replaced every 40K, under the maintenance section. If its clogged it may be your problem. Good luck in fixing it.

Thanks - and what a STUPID place to put a fuel filter, eh? :thumbdwn:

I'll do all the other fuel checks too (now )

OMG! 120 posts on this thread :eek:

Im not to sure about the filter. Would that make it die so suddenly. From running just fine to stopping in one day.

But change it anyway. =)

I would really suspect the fuel pump relay. The felicia is a VAG car. And i have had 2 fuel relays die on me.

Searched online and its a veryvery usual problem with older audis and vws.

The thing you could do is just jump the pump. Find the fuel pump relay (should be some kind of index of the relays in haynes or in the box over fuses and stuff).

Open it and then jump between the hole with 30 next to it and 87 i think.

http://www.freeengineinfo.com/wp-includes/images/relay.jpg

Then you should hear the pump buzzing.

If it doesnt it means you have a dead pump, or bad wiring to the pump.

But if it works then try to start the car with the jumped.

I suspect the fuel relay might be kicking in in the beginning (it usually runs for a couple of secs when you turn on the ignition), but then it might cut out when the car starts.

The thing is that this relay feels for ignition and wont pump fuel without it (good if you crash and your catches on fire), but this also means they somehow are really sensitive.

I had a problem with the relay and a bad earthing connection once on my 82' audi coupe. I changed everything. Even the whole pump, filter and etc. But turned out to be a bad earth and a fuel pump relay working only when it wanted to.

Best of luck to ya.

I'll check output from fuse 4 with the ignition on to test the relay It definitely clicks when the ign is turned on.

Hmmm... if its not running then you will not get any output there i think. As i said. The fuel pump (usually at least) is only allowed to run for a couple of seconds upon turning the ignition and when it feels ignition on the engine.

But you say it clics? No buzzing of the pump? Thats a bit wierd.

Try to measure like you wanted to. If not. Make two male plugs on a little wire and jump 30 and 87 on where the fuel relay is. If that doesnt work. Feel for 12v + in the hole marked 30. Its supposed to be 12v + i think at all times or at least with ignition on.

If you read no current there try running a wire directly from the battery + terminal and into 87. If the pump doesnt run then. Then its your pump that died on you (or wiring).

------

But if you could get the car to start and run for a while on starting gas then you will have identified the problem as being fuel related. Without playing around with the wires that much.

:iagree:

...long before anything serious happened to the machinery in my beloved Citroën GS it was corroded to a heap of rusty dust :rofl:

No such issues with a BX or a 306 and nothing major went wrong either.

Engine was fine at 250k, just a shame the ULSD had fooked the internal seals on the fuel pump. ******* environmentalist... sulphur lubricated well and acid rain was a worthy side effect.:P