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Fuel filter change - wont start!


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Hi people.

Right, I decided to have my car (2.5 tdi) serviced at a local garage as it was most convenient. Asked them to change the diesel filter.

Went to pick up car last night - car wouldn't start. After cranking for ages and rebleeding the system, fired. They insisted they took it for a test drive and it was fine. They also said it took the technician ages to get it going (!) after filter change.

Drove home OK (7 miles).

This morning spluttered a bit but started.

Drove to work (7 miles).

Now stuck at work as it would not start.

What could it be? I hope they have not knackered the injection pump by inadequate bleeding and running dry. Thats my main concern.

But more likely ti could be a simple thing such as they cracked the plastic T piece on to of filter.

Any ideas?

I am literally waiting for the AA to turn up, and have a trip planned for the weekend, but not sure if the car will be ready. Help please.

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I always fill the new filter with fuel before installing it and never had a problem. If the filter is the same as mine (2 pipe connections on the top), it may be worth seeing if the pipes can be swapped to each others connection. I'm not saying that's what the problem is, but the filter change is a simple job that my wife could do, and has never been a concern for me.

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All I can say is that your symptoms exactly mirror my 2.5. Approaching 4 years old and had starting problems (exactly like yours). If I got it started or recovery started it then it wouldnt start next day. Resulted in me being stuck at work. Initially dealer said tank sender unit had failed (common VAG prob). They fixed that but no go because as you obviously know the injection pump needs fuel for lubrication (and of course fuel hadnt been reaching it so it was knackered). So that had to be replaced as well. Only bright spot was that as they had to strip down engine they did belts and water pump (they were due at next service) and total bill for everything was just over £550. Still a big ouch but given main dealer, out of warranty and standard cost of belts/pump replacement I came away satisfied. Did have to get Skoda UK involved re contribution and a couple of letters to Honest John Daily Telegraph Motoring section helped along the way.

Not technical so hope your theory is right but nature of you problem was all too familiar. Otherwise car has been brilliant.

Best of luck

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I feel sorry for you, but I hope it all turns out ok. If what you suspect is true (FIP knackered), then it was probably a trainee or someone of similar knowledge who fitted the filter in the first place, then cranked it over and starved the FIP of fuel. I hope this works out for you mate, just beware the garage may try to cover their tracks.

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All I can say is that your symptoms exactly mirror my 2.5. Approaching 4 years old and had starting problems (exactly like yours). If I got it started or recovery started it then it wouldnt start next day. Resulted in me being stuck at work. Initially dealer said tank sender unit had failed (common VAG prob). They fixed that but no go because as you obviously know the injection pump needs fuel for lubrication (and of course fuel hadnt been reaching it so it was knackered). So that had to be replaced as well. Only bright spot was that as they had to strip down engine they did belts and water pump (they were due at next service) and total bill for everything was just over £550. Still a big ouch but given main dealer, out of warranty and standard cost of belts/pump replacement I came away satisfied. Did have to get Skoda UK involved re contribution and a couple of letters to Honest John Daily Telegraph Motoring section helped along the way.

Not technical so hope your theory is right but nature of you problem was all too familiar. Otherwise car has been brilliant.

Best of luck

Been recovered by the AA TWICE this weekend, first time the guy didn't want to touch anything (legalities of "blame") despite it being quite clear diesel was bubbling underneath the plastic T piece on top of diesel filter. Second time round the guy was more helpful and took the T piece off (after hearing loud hissing during vacuum application to suck the diesel up thru the filter and still refusing to start) - pulled the T piece off, the o ring was too big, slack fit in the groove. On re-installating the T piece there was no more hissing on application of vacuum and the priming of the fuel system worked with the engine firing up quickly! Filter and seals are FRAM. Will insist on OEM next time!!

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Been recovered by the AA TWICE this weekend, first time the guy didn't want to touch anything (legalities of "blame") despite it being quite clear diesel was bubbling underneath the plastic T piece on top of diesel filter. Second time round the guy was more helpful and took the T piece off (after hearing loud hissing during vacuum application to suck the diesel up thru the filter and still refusing to start) - pulled the T piece off, the o ring was too big, slack fit in the groove. On re-installating the T piece there was no more hissing on application of vacuum and the priming of the fuel system worked with the engine firing up quickly! Filter and seals are FRAM. Will insist on OEM next time!!

Glad to hear you got it sorted! :yes: :thumbup:

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Been recovered by the AA TWICE this weekend, first time the guy didn't want to touch anything (legalities of "blame") despite it being quite clear diesel was bubbling underneath the plastic T piece on top of diesel filter. Second time round the guy was more helpful and took the T piece off (after hearing loud hissing during vacuum application to suck the diesel up thru the filter and still refusing to start) - pulled the T piece off, the o ring was too big, slack fit in the groove. On re-installating the T piece there was no more hissing on application of vacuum and the priming of the fuel system worked with the engine firing up quickly! Filter and seals are FRAM. Will insist on OEM next time!!

did a fuel filter change on my octy 1.9 last weekend , used a non OEM , started engine up , diesel pouring out of the bottom , were the drain valve is . Took it out and had to put the original back in ,which fortunatly i had not thrown on the floor , Now refitted with an original part , and alls fine . Moral save time not money go OEM always thats what i learnt .

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did a fuel filter change on my octy 1.9 last weekend , used a non OEM , started engine up , diesel pouring out of the bottom , were the drain valve is . Took it out and had to put the original back in ,which fortunatly i had not thrown on the floor , Now refitted with an original part , and alls fine . Moral save time not money go OEM always thats what i learnt .

My issue is the dealer is too far away 25 miles. And local VW dealer is useless as soon as I say I have a skoda they look for "equivalent" VW model, and then even though they know its the Passat, still cannot give me service or parts prices as they need to use a "code" or something, and never get back to me. So went for a local garage, have used them before they are OK, but this O ring is clearly the wrong one (not their fault probably - it just comes in a kit).

Car started this morning.

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I used to have a job which included testing diesel fuel filters. Although it was years ago, the only fuel filters worth using in my opinion were Mann & Hummel and Bosch. These are the only makes I will ever buy.

Some VAG OE filters are now Chinese and are prone to leaking at the bore for the plastic thermostatic "T". This bore is sometimes not circular or properly formed on these filters and air leaks here will always cause starting problems.

All filters fitted with the plastic "T" should have 2 "O" rings, one blue and one black fitted to the "T". Lubricate these with engine oil before fitting and make absolutely sure they are not twisted.

After changing a filter, use a vac pump to prime the new filter by applying suction to the filter outlet - I use a 1 litre Wanner oil gun in reverse. The engine will then start instantly.

rotodiesel.

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My issue is the dealer is too far away 25 miles. And local VW dealer is useless as soon as I say I have a skoda they look for "equivalent" VW model, and then even though they know its the Passat, still cannot give me service or parts prices as they need to use a "code" or something, and never get back to me. So went for a local garage, have used them before they are OK, but this O ring is clearly the wrong one (not their fault probably - it just comes in a kit).

Car started this morning.

Eurocarparts , do free shipping , and you can do it all online !!

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Eurocarparts , do free shipping , and you can do it all online !!

I will probably invest in a suitable priming pump and do it myself next year, I wish I'd done it myself this time too, would have done a better job, as I have never had any issues before with DIY diesel filter replacements. First time I took a car to someone else for this job. And last I reckon.

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  • 9 months later...

Had a similar problem, Engine did not start after changing diesel filter, had filled up the filter,tried bleeding,checked for o ring leaks....the works....engine wouldn't budge, got fed up & just changed the new filter again with a VW/VAG OE diesel filter....engine started the first instant.....my guess defective diesel filter.

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  • 1 year later...

I used to have a job which included testing diesel fuel filters. Although it was years ago, the only fuel filters worth using in my opinion were Mann & Hummel and Bosch. These are the only makes I will ever buy.

Some VAG OE filters are now Chinese and are prone to leaking at the bore for the plastic thermostatic "T". This bore is sometimes not circular or properly formed on these filters and air leaks here will always cause starting problems.

All filters fitted with the plastic "T" should have 2 "O" rings, one blue and one black fitted to the "T". Lubricate these with engine oil before fitting and make absolutely sure they are not twisted.

After changing a filter, use a vac pump to prime the new filter by applying suction to the filter outlet - I use a 1 litre Wanner oil gun in reverse. The engine will then start instantly.

rotodiesel.

Roto, would you be able to elaborate on this please? I'm planning on doing mine this evening. I have a Hengst Fuel Filter (Superb mk1, 1.9tdi, '02). I'm worried about this 'priiming' bit?

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The last Hengst filter I saw had two identical (black) "O" rings - not correct. There should be a black one and a blue one. An air leak at the Tee will give you misery in terms of intermittent starting.

Fit your replacement filter (8mm triple square driver needed - VAG why?) leaving the outlet disconnected. Apply vacuum (I use a big oil gun) until fuel flows from the filter outlet. Connect the hose to the tandem pump, start the engine and allow it to run at fast idle for a few minutes to purge the air. Check for leaks.

Do not forget or omit the plastic spacer ring under the filter can flange. It sets the height of the filter in its clamp which is critical.

The whole setup is a stupidly detailed design which is likely to be messed up by the trade. No wonder Japanese cars are more reliable in the real world. Do the job carefully and meticulously to avoid any dirt entry at the filter outlet, then there will be no consequential problems. Cheap filters can be death to a good diesel engine.

rotodiesel.

Edited by rotodiesel
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The last Hengst filter I saw had two identical (black) "O" rings - not correct. There should be a black one and a blue one. An air leak at the Tee will give you misery in terms of intermittent starting.

Fit your replacement filter (8mm triple square driver needed - VAG why?) leaving the outlet disconnected. Apply vacuum (I use a big oil gun) until fuel flows from the filter outlet. Connect the hose to the tandem pump, start the engine and allow it to run at fast idle for a few minutes to purge the air. Check for leaks.

Do not forget or omit the plastic spacer ring under the filter can flange. It sets the height of the filter in its clamp which is critical.

The whole setup is a stupidly detailed design which is likely to be messed up by the trade. No wonder Japanese cars are more reliable in the real world. Do the job carefully and meticulously to avoid any dirt entry at the filter outlet, then there will be no consequential problems. Cheap filters can be death to a good diesel engine.

rotodiesel.

Thanks rotodiesel,

Really nervous now - thought Hengst were a good make! Bought the most expensive one I could find on the site. Anyway, I'll check when I get home to see if there are black and blue or two blacks...

As for the sucking - What am I likely to have lying around that I can use? I don't think I have an oil gun. I do, however, have a brand new Mannesmann thingy to suck the oil out. Could I use that first (ie, before I change the oil) or is that overkill?

Thanks

Kam

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Just checked... 2 black 'o' rings same size, in the box. Is this a no-goer?

Might just leave the fuel filter for now and do the oil and other filters. Have done 18k miles since last change, bit i'd rather leave it, rather than **** it up!

Edited by syanide
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I have fitted a Hengst filter with the 2 black "O" rings - not to my car though. It worked OK but fitting the Tee was not easy because the "O" rings supplied are too hard.

Fit the rings carefully remembering that the plastic Tee is brittle and will break if stressed. After checking that they are not twisted in their grooves, lubricate generously with engine oil. Do not use silicone grease which is insoluble in fuel and will cause trouble. Unless you get the Tee fully engaged, the "Mickey Mouse" clip will not fit.

The correctly specified "O" rings make fitting the Tee very easy.

To minimise the risk of dirt ingress when you do this job, pull the outlet hose half off the filter stub and then spray with WD-40. This will wash off the dirt.

The injectors in your PD are probably the most accurately made objects you will ever own - more tightly specified for tolerance than a Rolex.

rotodiesel.

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Like so many other guys in this thread, I cannot stress the importance when touching anything in the fueling system of making sure every seal is where it should be, and any push and click connections are pushed fully home and properly seated. A diesel pump will draw air even through the tiniest gap, and play havoc with starting. Must confess as I read the OP, I was saying, air leak, air leak, air leak. Why so certain? Been there, got the t-shirt!

Also, if you really love your diesel car, you will always fill the filter full of clean diesel (via the inlet) before you fit it. Crank a CR pump (I know this doesn't apply to the OP) the amount it would take to fill a filter, and you will most likely have a failed pump, and iron filings in all your injectors at some point in the future. (That, by the way, is not from experience, but it is a warning!)

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