is this normal?

[YellowCar]

That's the way to do it mate you've got plenty to think about, just make your way through the list. We'll get our thinking caps on give us a shout as you go along.

[dan281082]

dirty thottle body!! all cleaned smoother but still the issue and yes so say the car is mapped, ive no proof of paper work , he told me it was mapped to 205bhp.   maybe a dodgy map???

Edited 16 May, 2015 by dan281082

[YellowCar]

Crumbs that is dirty. Did you replace the gasket too? As for the map I was wondering about how the spark is effected so the gap is relevant. Mapped cars generally need a smaller gap so a tad cooler and it doesn't get blown out. As I said though I think the drop would be more sudden if it was spark related.

Do you know where it was mapped? Could be a software issue, bit of over boost and the ecu is retarding something or altering the n75, but I would have thought if the ecu recognises that it would go full limp mode. This would be a boost reduction rather than a drop in revs though...

Don't feel like I'm helping much, just thinking out loud really...I'm still tempted to think it's sensor related. Have you tried unplugging the MAF, this gives ecu a baseline reading so allows the car to run without the sensor mucking things up, so if it runs better without, your sensor us mucking things up.

[dan281082]

how far can i run without the maf plugged in?  im down to work tomorrow to fix rear door lock, so i can run it there unplugged , i was thinking maf but im no expert but done a lot of reading also i thought maf would throw up a code?

how will it run unplugged if the maf is ok?

 

does feel much smoother with a clean throttle body got a new gasket from the local vw van centre not one car dealership had one in my area,

 

oh and he said it was oldends engineering or something up birmingham way

Edited 16 May, 2015 by dan281082

[YellowCar]

Maf won't always throw a code but things as a result of it might. As far as the ecu is concerned it's doing what the MAF tells it to, pretty much everything on these is driven by intake and airflow.

You won't need to drive it for long to find out, so you could head off unplugged and plug it back in further down the road. You can drive for quite a while like it I suppose but for peace of mind just do a short run. If it happens frequently then go for long enough to know whether it's been effective. Tc light may come on when plugged back in, don't worry about that can clear it by disconnecting battery.

Throttle body clean can be one of the most effective maintenance things, mine wasn't that dirty but still impressed by the difference it made.

[dan281082]

your advice is much appreciated, ill unplug the maf tomorrow see what happens, ill get a spark plug gap thing and test them , they were changed at 77k its done 102k now,

[YellowCar]

No problem. Do you know what plugs they are? If ngk bkr7e (copper core or equivalent) a change would be due (overdue), 30,000 miles is also the limit of platinum and longer life ones (as advised by manufacturers anyway).

Maf is one of those things that costs nothing to check, let us know how you get on.

[dan281082]

then ill change them monday when autoparts is open, any recommendations?

[YellowCar]

You're on remap yes? I've just switched from longer life (platinum and lazer iridium, which were nice) to the shorter life but seemingly more efficient ngk bkr7e (copper core) following advice on this forum. They're a better conductor and dissipate heat more effectively, have to be gapped to 0.7 though if not pregapped. Had to do mine myself this time. They're also the cheapest, so annual or 2 yearly replacement isn't much of an issue. Probably get 4 for a tenner.

P.s been pleased with them, power pull feels more consistent. Prefer the previous plugs on cold start but as far as running goes I do like these.

As per earlier post if not mapped gap 0.8 and either bkr7e or platinum if standard.

[dan281082]

thanks , just been told the mapper was a aldon automotive in brieley hill,  birmingham, im hoping he can fine the paperwork maybe worth a call.

[YellowCar]

Have a sniff online see what people say about them (good or bad), they may agree to put it to standard for no charge so you can see if it cures it, if not they can just reload the existing one. If it turns out to be software they should adjust that for no charge as there is clearly a fault with it. Bit tricky to get mappers to admit that sometimes though I should imagine...

[kentphil1]

Have a sniff online see what people say about them (good or bad), they may agree to put it to standard for no charge so you can see if it cures it, if not they can just reload the existing one. If it turns out to be software they should adjust that for no charge as there is clearly a fault with it. Bit tricky to get mappers to admit that sometimes though I should imagine...

I would think you have more chance picking 6 good lottery numbers and the bonus ball than that one

[dan281082]

yes i fear its a long shot specially if previous owner cant find paperwork for the map.  so todays job will be unplug maf, see how she runs, maybe trip tp maplins get some cleaner to clean it, also rear door lock replacement what fun! 

 

the previous owner says he never felt the problem as he never drove the car hard, who maps a car then dnt test it every now and then with a big old right foot

[YellowCar]

Hmmm which probably translates to 'that's why I sold it'. Worth a try with the mapper, you've got to be in it to win it. They will have a record of it, just depends how approachable/helpful they are.

Door lock mechs aren't too bad to do, getting the barrel out is probably the hardest bit, takes some serious wiggling and perseverance sometimes. Check the stickied microswitch thread here for removal. Any problems give us a shout. Good luck with the MAF.

[dan281082]

So unplugged maf and it runs the same without it if not a bit exaggerated so bad maf?

[YellowCar]

If it just ran the same unplugged it doesn't seem to be a MAF issue. I wonder if as it was a little worse it points to another air issue as the baseline didn't agree with the air in the system? I'd be tempted to try a pressure or smoke test if the other cheap/free checks you're doing turn nothing up. Often pipework looks ok but you'll discover a leak under pressure, some places where splits or bad connections are likely are pretty hard to see. Just keep ticking things off the list mate.

[YellowCar]

Have you found anyone to help measure blocks yet by the way? Put that near the top of the list of things to do.

[dan281082]

No net yet tryjg to search.

Just fitted door lock all ok except I lock it and it won't open unless I whack from th outside any ideas?

[peter3197]

thanks , just been told the mapper was a aldon automotive in brieley hill,  birmingham, im hoping he can fine the paperwork maybe worth a call.

Aldon automotive used to be major tuners of minis, proper ones, that is, back in the day. Had an excellent reputation then. 

[YellowCar]

No net yet tryjg to search.

Just fitted door lock all ok except I lock it and it won't open unless I whack from th outside any ideas?

Could be a wiring thing, check loom (especially through door pillar), multiplug pins and socket on the mech. Was it a new or used mech? Did you grease the ****** up before fitting?

[YellowCar]

Oh hang on, did the little cable for the external handle go back in exactly the same teeth? Could be it's not tight enough to pull the catch although not sure why thumping it would work. Worth a check though.

[dan281082]

it was the little cable and what a little ****er he is!

 

 but done pretty sure i could do it blindfolded now!

 

anyway. i have found my cable to run my copy of vcds lite. will this give me any info from the blocks?

[dan281082]

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9u317tpvtebQU16YXZBc1NfSFk/view?usp=sharing

 

link to log off vcds lite not sure if its relevant

[dan281082]

**** pic but spent some time snow foaming and waxing today

 

[YellowCar]

Very nice, mines a bit poorly (cv joint) so treated mine to a polish and protect yesterday, see if it would help it feel better lol.

Anyway, can't open that link on phone, will have a look on laptop when I get chance. I had a dig in my old thread about power pull issues and found some blocks would be useful to measure (apologies if they're in that link):

Group 2 maf and injection timing

3 maf timing

31 lambda and fueling (need engine speed so log with 120 will also give torque reading from which you can calculate bhp)

26 knock sensor voltage

115 boost

N75 duty cycle could be useful but can't remember block number, quick Google search will tell you. As I said I can help with some numbers but not all. I have my charts for comparison, all were ok apart from boost and n75 (not plotted) but mine has been pinpointed to high intake temps and weak actuator. Sorted intake temps, still got actuator to fit. Anyway I'll dig the link out.