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Hi all The Superb Mk3 AWD is fitted with a 5th generation Haldex. Regarding VAG Group, and Skoda in particular, it also equips: Octavia 3, Superb 2, Karoq, Kodiaq. It may also apply to Scala and Kamiq, unless they're equipped with 6th generation. I actually don't know for these latter. Since I have limited trust in garages in my neighborhood and because I like 'DIYing' on my car, I've decided to change the oil of my Haldex system on my own. If one follows Skoda recommendations, workshop manuals (see cardiagn.com) only mention a simple oil replacement every 3 years and that's it! But when you start diving into documentations or in youtube videos about 5th gen Haldex, you can notice that the oil pump has an intern strainer, which trends to get really dirty, whereas it's never cleaned ! Hence, here is this humble tutorial ! I apologize, if there are any vocabulary issues... I'm French. Firstly, here are all elements, that we're going to look at: #13 : Bleeder screw (M10x30) - P/N N 910 827 01 (tightening torque 38 Nm for Superb Mk3, but on other VAG model it may be 32Nm - Have a look to the workshop manual corresponding to your car. See cardiagn.com) #14 : Filler screw (M10x1x10) - P/N N 902 818 02 (tightening torque 15 Nm) #3 : Retaining screw (M6X35) for the Haldex Control Unit - P/N N 105 540 05 (tightening torque 9,5 Nm) #11 : Retaining screw (M6X35) for the Haldex hydraulic pump - P/N N 105 540 05 (tightening torque 9,5 Nm) #9 : O-rings for the pump - P/N 0CQ 598 305 (⚠️Note : This P/N is a kit, which includes both O-rings, but also both retaining screw #11! Don't by these screws twice!) Gear Oil : According to ifinterface.com: P/N G 065 175 A2 or According to what dealer sold me: P/N G 60 175 A2 - 850 ml (~29.9 fl oz) By the way, don't forget to check that the oil can actually contains 850ml through the gauge on the side of the can. Indeed, just for the short story, the oil can I had bought only contained 750ml, though brand new and still crimped . I had to go back to the dealer to exchange the oil can. The requested volume for the maintenance operation is usually around 700-720 ml (24.6-25.3 fl oz), thus it leaves little room for error (and even less if the can is not filled correctly). The total bill was ~75 € for all parts (without screws #3, which you don't need to change). - Difficulty : 2 - Time needed : 1h30 approx. - Number of person needed : 1 - Necessary tools : ¤ Screws #3 and #11 : Torx T30 or 10mm Hex socket, if you don't have Torx ¤ Screw #13 : 8mm Hex ¤ Screw #14 : 5 mm Hex ¤ For Hydraulic pump strainer screws : Torx T10 ¤ Ratchet or classic wrenches for disassembly ¤ Torque wrench(es) to apply specified torques: (9,5 / 15 / 38 Nm) ¤ Short and intermediate extensions for ratchet or torque wrenches to enable easier access to screws ¤ A small flat screwdriver ¤ Oil drip tray ¤ Rags ¤ 1 wooden toothpick ¤ Lifting means ¤ Syringe for oil filling Dealing with the syringe, I've bought this one for 20-25€ on Amazon. It makes the job perfectly! Step #0 : Preparation You need to lift the car high enough to get under the car and to get enough space to move your arms comfortably. In my case, 370mm (~14.5") of ground clearance were enough. Note: Though you've lifted the car, it needs to remain horizontal to make a proper filling with right oil level (see step 5). If this case, I had to compensate the natural slope of the ground. Step #1 : Oil draining Start with the filler screw (#14 / blue square) removal for more safety. Indeed, if it's stuck, you won't be "snooked", with a completely empty Haldex oil tank and no way to refill it. Once you've removed the filler screw. Don't get rid of it immediately. You'll need it again temporarily for Step #4! Now, you can remove the bleeder screw (#13 / red circle). There's no difficulty to remove these 2 screws. There are 2 good news for this step: - The drain screw is long enough, so that you won't get surprised, when the thread gets totally disengaged from the housing. - Even if the drain screw has an horizontal axis, there's only a small quantity of oil, and since it is very fluid, it flows well vertically from the edge of the hole. Little chance of getting trapped with the oil, which flows suddenly and farther than the drip tray. Phew! However, it takes several minutes to really let all the oil drain: Step #2 : Hydraulic pump removal Whereas oil is still dripping, start removing 2 retaining screws (#3) for the Haldex Control Unit. They are quite easy to access with a small 1/4'" ratchet. After that, you can rotate the Haldex Control Unit, to bring the connectors on the top upside down. This simple operation will help you saving a huuuuuuge amount of time ! But this tip is explained / told nowhere!!! Otherwise, you will have to disconnect the pump connector 'blind'... And if you do this operation for the first time, You hardly understand how to proceed. Decency leads me to shut up the time that I spent trying to remove this µ%£$@&# connector before I changed my mind on the operating process. Pump connector before Control Unit removal : Once the 2 retaining screws of the Control Unit have been removed, you can easily access to the connector: Now simply insert a small screwdriver in the notch (red circle) and push in the arrow direction. Very simple... Then, you need to unclip the black plastic wire protection, which keeps the pump wiring away from the propeller shaft. It's clipped in 2 locations on each side of the shaft, You just need to pinch the 2 lugs at their end to make them go back through the hole in the housing. Left side (Control Unit side) : The upper red circle in the mirror shows what you hardly see in the lower dotted circle... It's clearly the circled part, that has to be pinched and then pushed/pulled in the arrow direction. Right side (pump side), just proceed the same way : The pump wire is now fully free. You can now remove the 2 retaining screws (#11) of the hydraulic pump (#10). Very easy too. Warning from this point, it will be 'Apocalypse pump' ! Please keep children and sensitive souls away from following pictures! Pull in the pump axis direction, while rotating it around its axis in one direction and then the other to ease the removal. Be very careful, when the pump is about to get out completely, not to strike the contact surface of the housing, nor to strike the pump strainer. FYI, the strainer is not sold alone. It's sold with the pump, which approximately costs 180-200 € (w/o VAT) ! And there, under your dumbfounded eyes , here is the sinister spectacle that awaits you: A strainer almost entirely clogged with sh**t! And the pump housing is not even better... FYI, this Haldex is only 2.5 years old and has only 45000 km (~28000 mi) on the clock. And considering the way I use my car, I don't think the Haldex faces a heavy duty use. Therefore, as I already mentioned somewhere on this forum, one can only notice that the oil replacement process in the maintenance manual for the Haldex 5th generation is clearly incomplete ! By the way, look at this video below from ~28 mn, you'll see the impact of the strainer cleaning on the pump demand signal ... It's clearly a proof that w/o a strainer cleaning, the pump unnecessarily faces severe conditions and that sooner or latter there's a risk of pump failure... Step #3 : Pump cleaning and reassembly Since the pump is now removed, you need to remove the strainer. Use a Torx T10 for both screws: Then wipe the pump dry with a rag, being careful not to get the dirt into the ports. Fort the strainer, a cleaning with some white spirit and a soft paintbrush. But be careful, not to brush to hard to avoid tearing the strainer mesh, which is very thin!!! Eventually, a simple soaking in a small glass of white wine ... sorry , I mean... White Spirit should help removing most of the dirt and finishing finely with the paintbrush. Let the strainer dry, while you remove both O-rings around the pump, using a wooden toothpick as a lever. It will avoid hurting the grooves. You can now, clean the area between both grooves with white spirit. Once everything is clean, you can mount the strainer back onto the pump. Be careful ⚠️ ! I didn't find any information about their tightening torque. Thus be sure to tighten enough to firmly place the strainer on the pump body (to make a good seal against dirt), but not too hard to avoid risks of cracking the plastic. Shall I remind you the price of the pump, just in case ?!? Now, pour some drops of fresh oil in a small container. By the way, FYI : Haldex used Oil 2.5 years old & 28000 mi on the clock / Haldex fresh oil Put few oil drops on both O-rings to lubricate them and install them onto the pump. Keep using the wooden toothpick if needed. The pump is now ready to be mounted back onto the car : Now, you can clean the housing with rags before putting the pump back in place: Don't forget the bearing surface, where the threads of the retaining screws are located. Here you can see some dirt left, that I removed right after taking the picture... You can now put the pump back into the housing. Be careful, not to pinch both O-rings . Once there's only 5-6mm (1/5 -1/4") between bearing surfaces of the pump and the housing, it gets a bit harder to push in by hand. This is probably caused by O-rings, which may act as a slight "bead" to efficiently seal. You now realize how clever it is, to lubricate both O-rings to prevent them from rolling inside out and to make this operation even more difficult. When the pump stops into the housing, you can put 2 retaining screws back in place (#3 - tightening torque = 9,5 mm) Put the black palstic pump wire protection in the correction position and clip it into both holes. Be careful, you still work 'blind' (unless you have a small mirror) . Reconnect the pump connector on the Haldex Control Unit and rotate the Haldex in its normal position. Watch out to rotate the Control Unit in the correct direction not to twist unnecessarily the pump wire. Put both retaining screws to fix the control unit (#3 - tightening torque = 9,5 Nm). For the lower screw, the propeller shaft flector is slightly in the way and leads you to put the bit with a small angle. But you can still manage to have enough grip with the bit to tighten. You can now install the new bleeder screw (#13 - tightening torque = 38 Nm). Step #4 : Oil filling According to the workshop manual, the filling shall be performed with an oil temperature between 20°C and 40°C (68°F / 104°F). If the ambient temperature is to low, put the oil can in a bucket filled with hot water for a while to bring the oil at the right temperature. You can now inject fresh oil in the filling hole (see blue square, on the 5th picture) with the syringe. You have to fill with oil, until it overflows. This should be approximately 650ml (~22 fl oz). Put the OLD filler screw back in place temporarily and tight it slightly. Yes, you've been told to keep it upon removal at step #1! Do you remember? ! Etape 5 : Oil level adjustment and ending Start the engine and let it run for ~1mn, to let the hydraulic pump fill with oil correctly. Shut the engine down, then remove the old filler screw again (#14 / still the blue square on the 5th picture ). Top up with oil until it overflows again, and you can put the new filler screw to finalize the operation (#14 - tightening torque 15 Nm). That's it! Fresh oil! Clean pump strainer! Happy Skoda owner! ... You can put the car back onto the floor now ! Now it's up to you!

That's the usual setting for DRL, I know it's possible to change the adaptation channel sin the #09 module on an Octavia III to get the rear sidelights on also but nt sure about on the Karoq.

Less than 25 actually. 22 on a good day. mostly short trips to school, shopping, parents etc and popping on charge. rarely do much motorway mileage but then when I do it can be long journeys. I put in 18 litres last week (because I’ve started driving to work again - 50 mile trip - but not every day). the last time I put fuel in before then was in December (31 litres) and I’d done nearly 2300 miles in that period of 6 months using 31 litres and mostly electric. car takes 7.5kWh (allowing for including any inefficiencies) and I tend to charge at less than 5p/kWh because of the tariff I’m on. (I also have access to free charging which I regularly do 2-3 times a week but let’s not include that as it’s not permanent). so 37.5p for a full charge. Divided by 20 miles gives me 1.9p/mile. If factor in the regular free charging and the often sub 5p/kWh tariff and I’m nearly at 1p/mile. if I do the work commute, OBC tells me my 50 mile round trip, mostly on motorway with 50-60 speed restrictions, is about 60-70mpg. Definitely not 1p/mmile there!

In this forum many people will say that the best tyres go to the rear. It's beyond my mind, why should I do that way but I usually try to put the best tyres on the front axle. Why? For the front drive car the front axle needs the best grip and best tyres for braking (you know that front brakes do the most of job). If you are planning to drive in a snow, just in case, then definetely best tyres go to the front.

Not sure what part of the UK you are situated but checking my local Skoda dealer, Marshalls Leicester brings just 2 Kodiaq 7 seaters which seem to have quite a premium over the cheaper 5 seaters. £17,800 Sept 2017 2.0 TDi 150bhp 4 x 4 with 38,562 miles (0116) 231 7060. £20,490 April 2017 1.4TSi 150bhp DSG with 21,520 miles number as above. Think you are going to struggle with your £16,000 budget however.

There is no capacity increase on the 1.5 vs. the 1.4. The combustion cycle has changed and with it brought a whole host of issues that Skoda and VAG are still trying to resolve. Most have been fixed with software updates but there is still a large proportion of 1.5 TSI engines out there that aren't right. Personally I'd buy new and hope they've prioritised fixing factory production and avoid used ones, or do as I did and buy a 1.4 TSI, a far better engine. To make a non-SportLine look like a SportLine you'll need new front and rear bumpers (painted), new plastic panels for the lower doors (again painted), black window surrounds (no chrome), black mirror caps, black roof rails, black grill surround and a set of 19" Vega alloy wheels. For 8,000 miles a year I'd avoid diesel, but as you like the torque of a diesel then I'd go for the 150PS and map it. The 190PS is rumoured to not be as smooth. Your £16,000 budget really limits you. I'd be tempted to wait and save enough to get the car you really want.

Picked my 2018 Superb Sportline Estate up a couple of days ago... already love it!

😔 bugger. Professional job I reckon. Always worth trying hot water, as it’s a free go!

At the drive-in "Film on the farm" last night, shown to position so that we can see the screen. Engine off, settle down, wait for the film. A few minutes after it starts there's a few raindrops. Ignition on (push-button, as it's keyless). Wipe screen, ignition off. Odd - after a few minutes the low-level lights are still on. Thinks - the car senses that we are in it so keeps them on for a bit. These things are sooooo clever. After a few more minutes, man appears - we've had trouble with a few new Beamers, lights go off after about 15 minutes. Oh, OK then. After a lot more minutes another man appears (I have now lost the plot of Jurassic Park). He asks if the keys are in - no, they don't go in. Then - bright idea! What if you turn that switch to off? Yes, that did it. I should have thought of that - the rotary light switch. Sorry to the car behind, and the one in front ...

He said as useful as a Toc H Lamp, meaning that they are crap 😛 Toc H Lamp...

The VIN does not hold information as to the paint code. I believe the paint code forms part of the Vehicle Data Sticker, one of which is usually found affixed into the 2nd inside back page of the Owners Manual and another stuck in the vehicle luggage compartment.

Keep meaning to actually try out the one I bought 18 months ago ☺️

You could try the very cheap glue gun/sticks and a kind of bridge, with screw things on (Dent puller)... You hot glue the feet to the car, in the dent and then use the bridge bit to tighten the foot bit by bit, pulling it slowly. This kind of thing, I mean. (see below, copy and paste into eBay). there are many other types and models to choose from, success is by no means guaranteed! Car Body Dent Repair Kit Paintless Dent Puller Tool with Hot Melt Glue Gun Stick

Big-a55 dents, yes, but not had any success with small dings / dents using boiling water.

Cheers, just joined.

You might find how to rebuild yours properly and sell it on again, given the colour rarity.

I've managed to find a dark grey one from a guy breaking a Fabia on one of the Facebook groups. Costing me £32 delivered mind....I guess the extra is down to the relative rarity compared to the light grey ones. I did try offering him £20, but he clearly knows they're worth a little more lol.

Brilliant. Thank you so much. IT WORKS!!!

I have a Focus RS for fun and the Superb 280 estate (which I bought 2nd hand). The Superb obviously isn't as quick, nor as sharp in corners (than the Focus) but it's pretty good for such a massive car. My car is a L&K 280 with DCC (DCC makes a big difference). I did consider the Golf R Estate but the Superb was a better option for me given that: - it's more practical for children / car seats (mostly due to sheer size) - it's less nickable (and therefore much cheaper insurance) - it's also slightly cheaper and much easier to find with heated windscreen (finding a Golf R with the windscreen is hard). I think this is an essential option for the UK. I'm delighted with my purchase. For reference I'm in my low 30s with 2 children and the space in the Superb is wonderful for massive car seats! Some good thoughts above!

No bad, keep talking

As Jevpls above PLUS battery needs recharging for multiple reasons, including a battery nearing end of life.

Booked in for mine to be changed at independent VW specialist in Sheffield Tomorrow, peace of mind.

Note all new Skodas will have Petrol Particulate Filters, which are a petrol DPF. Simpler than the DPF, but a bit of an unknown quantity just now. Also known as GPF (gasoline) and OPF (Otto)

Thanks all for your answers. I've decided to move new tyres to the rear as safety is my main priority. I won't be driving on snow except for a couple of days per year. Bad thing, this swap comes with a cost. Halfords Autocentre West Ealing charges 7.50GBP per wheel, so that will be 15 GBP both. I need to do this asap so I'll pay this. Next time I'll do it myself. Thanks again!

I have a trolley jack and rotate the tyres on both our Skoda's myself in my drive but appreciate not eveyone has the equipment or the space. You could ask them very nicely to move them for FREE (if you don't ask you never know) to the front axle if they are using a lift which is very easy for them as they use pneumatic guns to remove the wheel bolts and it will only take them 5 minutes more. Once had a free puncture repair done on the wife's Karoq at my local National tyres and to thank the guys that worked there went across the road and bought them a case of Bud as a thank you.

Loofer, if you think you might need 4WD for winter weather, it's far better to have FWD with all-season tyres than 4WD with summer tyres (and you'll get a quieter, more compliant ride as a bonus). Interesting to see the comments on tyre wear: my previous car, Golf Alltrack, had fairly even tyre wear F&R, fronts wearing only marginally quicker.

BMW 225XE. the Outlander PHEV is only in 5 seat guise and I don’t think can be converted due to floor pan containing batteries etc. the XC90 and Tesla S/X are out of my budget. so I’m looking at regular 7 seaters and the bear took my fancy over some of the others.

@Stuart-h sorry no help to your question just a question. What is wrong with just keeping an eye on the brake pad wear, as in you know how good the pads are, how many miles you do and when checking tyres etc look at the pads and discs and see who things are going. Service the brakes annually maybe pre winter or post winter.

@newbie69 Fair enough. Just let them know that it is fitted then so that there is no confusion at the Service Desk or in the workshop. Let them know that Non Factory approved components fitted.

I agree. Was there a reason you mentioned that @Roottoot?

Mpg doesn’t sound that bad with that sort of run With the extra weight of 4 x 4,but the FIX did appear to effect the lower powered 2.0l the most, in more ways than mpg from reading the posts at the time.

3 year old ex lease cars and ones on Motability are getting handed back in numbers and going to auction now and in the next few months so cars going out of Manufacturers Warranty will be appearing in great numbers and dealers / traders will be keen to shift current stock and the new stock of 3 year old cars arriving.

Ah.... @JR RS does appear to have them without the headlights being on. Maybe that's down to the retrofit coding?

No. Only with the main lights.

Same block different head, most 1.5 versions fitted with ACT (Active Cylinder Technology) which disables 2 cylinders under light loads.

A tape measure? One is 1 1/2 times the size of the other.🙂

Interesting to read of the economy you are all getting from the petrol engines & to hear of someone whos diesel MPG dropped significantly possibly after the emissions fix, does anyone else have any experience of this? I have just moved to a 2.0 TDi 105hp Yeti from an Octavia 2 1.9 Tdi 105hp & before that a MK1 1.9 Tdi 110hp and both of them always returned 55-65 mpg. The Yeti by comparison has been a real dissapointment, it had the emissions fix before I owned it and is also a 4x4, there is also a greater frontal area but if anything I drive this one much slower and with an even lighter right foot. I do the same regular 20 mile round trips to the running club and the MPG was always within 2 or 3 each time, the Yeti does note even come close, the maxidot shows the average over 4 or more tankfulls at 47.3mpg but knowing they are often overoptimistic I also measure & calculate on a brim to brim basis as I did with the previous cars and the calculations are a consistent 43.5 mpg. One thing that I have noticed is that on local short journeys around town the economy is probably better than the previous TDi's and I can do a 6 mile return trip under 30 mph in traffic, roundabouts etc and it will be up to 43 mpg (better than the Octavias) but get out on the open road at a constant 50 mph where the MPG should start really climbing and it does not change one bit. I am really beginning to question if its due to the emissions fix or that the EGR etc is clagged up, the car feel fine so I dont really know if its worse after the emissions fix, its very nippy through the gears but mid range overtaking is poor by comparison but that may be due to it being underpowered at 105hp and the extra gear ratio making it feel nippier through the gears at lower speeds than the Octavias. Has anyone else seen a significant drop in MPG after the emissions fix and does anybody get significantly better MPG from a 4x4 Yeti? I will get it remapped one day by Celtic tuning and if I have it done at their workshop they can roll back the emissions fix, has anyone else done this and was there a benefit?

You can stick with what you have, just remember to give it a decent long run frequently to avoid any DPF problems. If you choose to change to a newer 1.2 petrol you will not be disappointed and not have to worry about DPF or any emission associated problems. The manual version is likely to be a “safer” buy if you believe the concerns expressed about the 7 speed DSG box (do a quick search on this Forum and Google), however, no one I know has ever had any problems and I certainly haven’t had the slightest qualm about the DSG box. The pros of the DSG box is that it is simply less tiring to drive in traffic and everyday motoring, personally I would only have an automatic car as I don’t see the attraction of clutch in, clutch out repeatedly in traffic - maybe my 74 year old knees would complain! You just put it into D-rive when you set off and that’s it until you arrive at your destination. If it was me I would be tempted to look for the highest spec 1.2 petrol SEL Drive DSG I could find with a reversing camera, power drivers seat and variable boot floor. Reversing camera because until you have one you don’t know what you’re missing, power drivers seat because you can set the seat, mirrors etc just where you like them and then the seat remembers that setting, your partner can do the same and it remembers their settings and you can swap between the 2 (or 3) at the touch of a button. Variable boot floor because it gives you 33% more luggage space than one with a spare tyre yet has a flat loading bay floor for everyday use.

This is all information that you should have posted in the OP. If the ECU doesn't know what the methanol kit is doing, it's dangerous as the engine is effectively out of control. This is also a question that should be put to your tuner rather than asking here, as the tuner (assuming they're competent and familiar with what you're trying to do) is going to have a better idea of how to do this. If the tuner has already suggested that this is a bad idea, it would be a good idea to listen to them.

The lesson that should be learned from this event is "FIRST remove negative battery cable when you work on the electrical system of the car".

We just use my wife’s Citigo for the very short trips to shops etc. The Yeti doesn’t get used now unless it is a decent trip or I need the space. It can’t soot up if not used for short trips, but is great for going out on trips, on holiday etc. When you consider the cost to change why not just pick up a Citigo instead? We paid £8k last year for a 5 month old preregistration one with 25 miles on the clock. I enjoy driving it as well, handles like a go cart!

Skoda told me Age - 5 years or Mileage - 140,000 however id never go near those, its a big bill if it breaks

Right, I'll give it another go tomorrow. The rad didn't but I have some already. Car currently looks like I've ran somebody over and am trying to cover it up lol...

Hi, My wife and I have a 2.0L diesel Yeti SE L bought in 2016. Our mileage is around 6,000 per year but until the virus we used to do a decent run of 50 miles or so each week which kept the car in good order and prevented sooting of the exhaust; it's the Adblue model. Now the Yeti is just used for very local supermarket trips and as the virus lockdown got into about the third week the exhaust icon lit up on the dashboard? I opened a police chatline and was granted permission to take the Yeti for a drive long enough to clear the exhaust on condition I didn't stop anywhere or take a passenger. Now still mostly used for the supermarkets we have a run in the countryside of 20 miles once each week. We've got our diesel Yeti and we love it; being bought new we know it hasn't been abused; it's excellent on fuel and road tax at only £30 per year; servicing might cost a bit more than servicing a petrol Yeti but we don't care. In January 2018 we had four new Michelin Cross Climate tyres fitted and since then it hasn't snowed. I'll never forget our wonderful government about 8 years ago condemning petrol cars as being dirty and price of diesel was reduced to encourage a swap to diesel; with diesels now promoted petrol cars were traded in so we certainly won't be parting with our lovely Yeti. We don't want an electric car either because we feel to buy electric cars is is heading the way white goods have gone; once the battery is no longer serviceable will such cars too become disposable items? Electric isn't clean it has to be generated and if everyone changed to electric the power grid couldn't cope; during heavy winter we lose power? If everyone went for electric cars could we trust our government to keep electricity prices as they are; I certainly wouldn't; I could see a new high tax tariff being introduced. I'm just biased because the only person I trust is my wife. Had brand new Yeti's still been manufactured we'd already have traded in a year ago but we wouldn't trade in our Yeti against a second hand Yeti. We could easily afford to buy a brand new Yeti but Skoda let faithful Yeti owners down; we'll keep our Yeti unless it starts to cost a lot for repairs then might swap to a Duster these not having lots of electronics to go wrong. I can well understand your caution because to get it wrong could prove expensive. Good luck. Kind regards, Colin.

I have had 2 Yeti’s, both 1.2 Tsi DSG’s. First bought in 2012 and second in 2017 when I knew they were being discontinued and couldn’t find anything I wanted to replace the Yeti with. The latest 4 cylinder 1.2 engine - I assume you are looking at a fairly recent model - is excellent, smooth, powerful, quiet and economical, I am getting a true 44+ MPG since new. The DSG on my 2017 Yeti is much smoother than on my 2012 car - particularly noticeable when quickly entering roundabouts for instance - but I suppose that is to be expected as it had a further 5 years technical development. I like automatics but if you prefer manual gear changing then the manual gearbox is reputed to be excellent. Though why anyone would want a manual transmission with our congested roads is beyond me, clutch-in clutch-out, clutch-in clutch-out ad infinitum -Why! If you can find one I suggest you look for an SEL Drive model - the run out Drive models had a host of useful extras - heated windscreen etc. I changed from a 2 litre diesel to the 1.2 Yeti in 2012 and didn’t miss the diesel power at all - the 1.2 petrol is so much quieter and smoother than a diesel - and unless you are planning to tow or fill the car with heavy passengers and luggage regularly then the 1.2 will be perfect for you. Incidentally I got the car with 16” wheels which provide a smoother drive and have since fitted it with Goodyear Vector All season tyres which are much quieter than the original tyres and being All Season tyres provide an extra degree of security in colder seasons.

lots of people fit the cheap chinese units etc etc and then realise how bad they are, they are cheap though..............albeit for a reason. You say you want apple play ??? for what exactly ? music or satnav or ??

Tnx for clarifying that💪

UK importer specifies every 4 years or 100000 miles. Skoda CZ says at 210000 km without a time limit.

Over the last few weeks mine had been getting more "rattly" on cold start and had started to rattle slightly on a warm start too. Got it booked in and sorted out, it had the chains, tensioners guides, VVT bridge and many many more associated bolts and gaskets etc. The engine is now rattle free (apart from normal Tsi type noises) and feels lots smoother than before. Car is a 2010 VRS TSi on 85k miles, was still on the original timing gear. I've also had higher oil consumption than i'd deem acceptable but an oil flush and moving to 5w40 oil appears to have stopped/slowed this down dramatically! Its not been a cheap month, that's for sure!