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The video the OP posted clearly shows the front wheels slipping and no engagement of the rears...

I had a painter in with a car in this style. Said that the car was not, registered, mot'd, taxed or insured. As long as you don't touch the system no one bothers you. Typically British, follow the rules and you get clobbered with the slightest infraction. Don't follow them at all and it's too much bother to catch you.

Hi As I saw nobody had this issue, I did not came back with the fix. There are two cooling fin modules at the back of the headlight, and the one at the side (exactly in line with the discoloured one) have to be removed where you will find the led chip. Mine had the paint on the led chip peeled off. You need to replace that module and the cost is not too high, under 100 euros compared to a new headlight price. Unfortunately I paid a lot more because went to dealer and paid for them to fix it. The operation in fact is not that simple as I thought because the bumper needs to be removed in order to remove the headlight unit all this because you don't have access to the module unless you remove the headlight. If I am not wrong the part number is 1420000690.

The last time I saw an issue like this, the underlying problem was a worn out lower ball joint at the affected side.

So the picky bits/nibbles wasn't quite as described to us...😃 Onion soup starter Legume cake.....nah me neither but it was good. Huge Wok with Beef casseroly thingy...everything but the kitchen sink in it! Cheese board and finally a Pear in pastry dessert Plus Sparkling, Rose and Red wine ....absolutely stuffed after eating a Plat du Jour lunch time...Burger, frites and salad. Tonight's is now a Pizza

Not wrong and you dont need a degree in Thermodynamics to realise, anyone who has owned petrol and diesel vehicles used for short urban journeys will know simply by how much they save at the fuel pumps. "even more de minimus on a diesel engine where there is no enrichment as soon as the compression ignition cycle is self sustaining," Are you going to say that is wrong on so many levels? A simple yes or no will suffice, save another demonstration of your extensive knowledge for someone that might be impressed by it. To explain for others a petrol engine runs an enriched mixture (choke = low MPG) until it reaches operating temperature, a diesel engine runs an enriched mixture only for starting on glowplugs, once it has started no further enrichment after a maximum of a couple of seconds. Modern petrol engine achieve impressive economy on long journeys, rivalling and even beating diesel but will never hold a candle to a diesel on short journeys, unfortunately for anything EU5 and onwards short journeys are a catastrophy for the DPF so petrol is better even though it will cost more on fuel.

Mine had done 79K miles and never been serviced, loads of schmoo on filter but no more than some of you who do frequent low mileage Haldex services. I have done another 53K miles and its still functioning correctly, I have been saying for ages that I must do it again but have so much other more important stuff going on like a roof above my head. It will be interesting to see how the filter looks this time. Re the OP, it sounds like the selling dealer has no idea other than competence in BS101 and that they and ultimately the OP have been taken for a ride by the transmission specialist who has removed a perfectly functioning differential needing at worst a service and a new Haldex pump and replaced it with one from a breakers yard that still does not engage the 4WD.

TV presenters and voice-over people that can’t speak proper English by inserting extra letters into words - burgERlar, smuggERlers, WembERley Petty gripe I know but it doesn’t take a lot to speak proply (sorry propERly 😏)

Squeezed a bit more stuff before work: Figuratively and literally. Got a lot of the stuff to be dumped into my work horse to be dumped later before lunch. I supposedly have a more practical car for these purposes ironically enough! I've left the struts for now. If anyone wants a possibly knackered set (they're rusty as hell), drop me a line, otherwise I'll set a bit of time to sort out their disposal (some drilling involved). Moving on, went to sort out the top rear strut bolts: Tightened to 50Nm, then marked up with a Sharpie to 45 degrees. Access is a little bit awkward: Didn't want to use extensions, but without them, there isn't enough clearance in the wheel arch to get the bolt tightened, and anything smaller was proving too much for my puny arms. Smaller wrenches would risk rounding (brute force can get clumsy, in my experience anyway) just as much as all these extensions if they're not on straight. Kept a hand firmly pushing against the extensions to the bolt, and gradually did it a few degrees at a time: So got the paint pen to mark it formally: Repeated for the other side: So with that, dry fitted the wheel liners: I think I'll need to get some washers to add to the bolts attaching the wheel arch just to give it some more spread, but it's getting there. Went to the front, and started to lift the lower arms with the jack: This then compresses the strut and eventually lets the anti roll bar bolt through: Slathered some copper grease and started the nut on it. Didn't take long before the bolt to spin with the nut. So went and raised the other side to attach that bolt: Once done, the raised anti roll bar had a holding effect on the other side, so just went with the impact wrench to buzz the nut in: Tried my best to not give it too many ugga duggas, regularly checking with a torque wrench to see if it clicked at 80Nm. Jacked up the other side to do the same process: I imagine I've probably overtightened them, but the torque wrench was still tightening them slightly when clicking, so I think it's not insanely so. Not too bothered, new shiny anti roll bar links are eventually needed (if not an entire replacement roll bar, it's looking as manky as the rear one). That's the big bits for the front suspension done. I'm waiting for some replacement nyloc nuts for the level sensor as they're a bit grotty, but otherwise, once those are done, that's the front suspension complete! Just need to clean up the Bilstein Damptronic wiring... Maintenance: £2217.41 Upgrades: £1322.97 Miscellaneous: £684.25

Thanks people, much appreciated for the replies. Going to take it to a trusted mechanic to check all steering and suspension parts, then possibly to my local ATS for tracking and tyres....

Is it a DQ381 7 speed wet clutch DSG with a Service Schedule of 80,000 miles? Sensible to have the DSG serviced before that miles, but those doing it need to know what they are doing, do they? ? Has the VAQ front diff been serviced at 3 years / 30,000 miles? so Twice now. Have the spark plugs been replaced, and the Air Filter? Has the brake fluid been changed? Actually has the Servicing History so far been to the Manufacturers Guidelines, recommendations, specification or Schedule?

Like you, I considered the Octavia as my final car in my retirement years as it seemed to offer what I wanted w/o breaking the bank. 19" rims are not standard on the vRS unless you opt for the Plus Pack at extra cost. This also brings the HUD (head up display), DCC adaptive suspension and heated F & R seats. The 19" wheels add to the appearance but spoil the ride as they make the car a shade jiggly whenever pot holes or wavy roads are encountered, making me request a wheel downgrade to the 18" items on mine. I am still a little miffed that the dealer did not offer me a credit for this swap. The DCC is a good option to have as you can adjust the settings for urban cruising or back road blasts. It still won't let you forget the presence of the 19" rims, though. You may also like to consider the pano roof if you go for the vRS as the all black cabin (even the headliner is black) is lightened up by this feature. Good luck with your choice and enjoy your ride.

According to the gknautomotive.com online spring catalogue, the Superb MK3 1.6TDI 120HP estate has the following standard ride height springs. Superb MK3 1.6TDI 120HP Standard ride height front springs L06 5Q0411105GL Sachs 993820 front springs (matches 5Q0411105GL) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/5q0411105gl?supplier[]=32 Standard ride height rear springs 1JA+0YC 3Q0511115AK Sachs 994977 rear springs (matches 3Q0511115AK) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/3q0511115ak?supplier[]=32 The Superb MK3 with sports/lowered ride height suspension, eg. Greenline, uses 55mm front buffers and 112mm rear buffers...so if changing to standard ride height springs you might want to change the buffers to 70mm front buffers and 127mm rear buffers...as shown below. Standard ride height front buffers 70mm 1K0412303B Standard ride height rear buffers 127mm 5Q0511357H Front bellows (all ride heights, ie. lowered/standard/increased ride heights) 5Q0413175C Rear protective pipes (all ride heights, ie. lowered/standard/increased ride heights) 5Q0513425J Sachs 900347 (70mm front buffers 1K0412303B and front bellows 5Q0413175C) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/sachs/7890477 Sachs 900358 (127mm rear buffers 5Q0511357H and rear protective pipes 5Q0513425J) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/sachs/7912428 If you want to change to standard ride height aftermarket shock absorbers you can use the following OEM part numbers to search for them: Standard ride height front shock absorbers G01 3Q0413031BF 3Q0413031BG 3Q0413031CQ 3Q0413031CR Note: These four OEM part numbers are also used on the sports/lowered ride height front suspension, eg. Greenline...so there is no need to change the front shock absorbers when changing from sports/lowered ride height front springs to standard ride height front springs. Sachs 317330 front shock absorbers (sold to replace 3Q0413031BF, 3Q0413031BG, and many other OEM part numbers) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/sachs/13785655?search=SACHS+Shock+absorber+(317+330) Standard ride height rear shock absorbers 1JA 3Q0513049FN 3Q0513049FP Note: These two OEM part numbers are also used on the sports/lowered ride height rear suspension, eg. Greenline...so there is no need to change the rear shock absorbers when changing from sports/lowered ride height rear springs to standard ride height rear springs. Sachs 318202 rear shock absorbers (sold to replace 3Q0513049FN, 3Q0513049FP, and many other OEM part numbers) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/sachs/14922297?search=SACHS+Shock+absorber+(318+202)

I'm wondering if that epoxy repair is actually hiding a crack in the casing suffered when the fin was broken off.

Just following up on the point @J.R. has made - I agree - the fundamental issue is the differential is not fit for purpose if it is leaking, regardless of the hole, and clearly you still have a non-functioning 4x4 system. Personally, I wouldn't be happy with a second hand differential that has had a 'hole drilled i it' either. I'd therefore be pushing for another replacement differential and for them to fully sort the 4x4 system. They've already had one go at fixing it and have failed so I think it's now a case of rejecting the car or taking some legal advice on what to do next.

Just purchased our third Skoda!!! In last 9 years, so felt compelled to join the club after having used it for occasional advice. My Phoenix Orange Fabia tsi110 colour edition is a big improvement on my past skodas so hopefully we will keep it for a while because I am not convinced that Electric cars are good value for money or convenience.

https://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg216.htm Also:

TFTD Thursday: Parents were invented to make children happy by giving them something to ignore - Ogden Nash

You could ask on the appropriate Octavia forum on this site if it's a known issue with your model. Porsche used to do the best alignment set ups as all their technicians had to be trained fully as Porsche model(s) at the time had problems that were difficult to resolve at the time but they are expensive. There are plenty of specialist suspension places about but some are better trained or knowledgeable about suspensions than others and garages that deal in general car mechanics might know more and better. Modifying, motorsport places places that deal with VW cars might not be as expensive as you think for proper four wheel alignment, they need to pay for the equipment and keep their staff with quick easy revenue work to do. For you taking your car to a trusted god mechanic is your first best move to check for worn or damaged parts (and very unlikely but it's possible to have a tyre that wears unevenly too). Many 'tyre places' can play around with alignment figures and suggest or show adjustments at a level that may not be possible to correct on a mass market street car or going down a few potholes or tap with a BFH could just about give the plus or minus increments they say are of concern.

Bit of petrol always work if you got any knocking about .

I would say it would be beautifully 'run-in' with a long hot run.

But do not have to stand there looking like I am mating with the car, I walk away, empty my bladder, go get a Starbucks, or Gregs or Maccie Ds etc. With UK unemployment going up perhaps we can go back to attendance service in filling stations ?

They will when the new batch of Dacia/Renaults come through and if we let the very cheap Chinese cars come in and not stick them with a whole not of Anti-Dumping Duty in addition to the 10% existing customs duty. The UK and EU government are here to protect EU businesses, not so much EU consumers. BYD seagull should be only around £10k so very cheap to lease, PCP etc. French have recently had a program for about 60 Euros a month for Dacia Spring and the like, massively oversubscribed . Like below, again might be a while before we see RHD version, link to French newspaper which your browser should translate approximately. https://www.frandroid.com/marques/byd/1958408_le-plus-grand-concurrent-de-tesla-reduit-le-prix-de-sa-voiture-electrique-la-plus-abordable-avant-son-arrivee-en-europe

^^^ While this might be an actuality so is the Millions and Millions that the UK are giving to France to enable this very thing. To Albania to supposedly have them discourage their citizens from doing it after they are back from being paid to leave the UK.

The Cops drive Skoda Superb here in NZ, so may not be able to run away from them...

I wasn't aware that the Ford ASBO was an accomplished figure skater.

Waffle waffle waffle............................., does the "actually" signify that somewhere in the waffle you are correcting something I have said that is incorrect? I'm surprised you didn't mention how much you earn and pay into your pension.

I'd suggest taking it to a more reputable tyre place than ATS, somewhere with a proper laser 4 wheel alignment tester and technicians properly trained how to use it. Too far for you but when I lived in Hampshire I would always go to Micheldever Tyres, but now they're part of Protyre I'm not so sure (had a bad experience with Protyre in Westbury).

I believe it is the dq381 👍 it would be done by bmw technician's so would of thought so! I'll ask about having the diff done and break fluid aswell 👍. Spark plugs/air filter were done last year, there is a gap in the service history from 35,000 to 55,000 which is a bit concerning!

@Stuart231 Welcome. They were not Tyre Garages were they, were they Tyre & Exhaust Fitting Centres with 'Fitters' or did the MOT tester have a look under the car to see if any work was needed? Best get any work done by a mechanic / Garage before and Checking or Adjustments are paid for. Adjusting worn suspension or steering is no 'simple clever'. Work first if needed. As to ATS Euromaster, First you best check their equipment is actually working. Then the trained staff member is available, then that they can actually make the required adjustment. & you need a new tyre or 2 or 4 most likely.

Engine is now mounted on its own in the car. Granted it's just sat on the chassis rails but I'm pretty excited about it. I think next job is to get it rolling so I can take it to home to do the welding

@Lee John McDonnell MP if it was him is the Ex Shadow Chancellor but very much a MP. So just another one guessing and if his lips move you know it is likely because he is blowing smoke up Jeremy Corbyn MP,s back end. He is also not an Ex MP. They stay on the gravy train until kicked off.

Don't let the cops get you. They're much stricter on speeding nowadays than five years ago.

Now come on, when have you ever known or heard a politician admit that they got anything wrong, the closest they get to it they always have some flowery way of phrasing it so it appear as if they passing the buck to a fall guy, some faceless bureaucrat or similar is normally their patsy. 😆

At a guess, fooked! 🤣

The price difference between the Style and RS is NZ$8000 (about AU$7300 or GBP 3800), so it does not seem as much as mentioned above. By paying that difference one gets a more powerful engine (2.0T 180kW vs 1.4T 110kW) paired with different gearbox (8sp AT vs DQ381 DSG), and one also gets an upgraded rear suspension, front diff lock, matrix head light, 1 inch larger alloy wheels and RS styling e.g. seats etc. The amount of kits for that extra cost is VERY attractive. In the past 15 years I have been driving the stereotypical reliable but boring Japanese cars due to my young family. Perhaps it is a midlife crisis, or perhaps because the kids are now older and I don't have to worry about fitting three car seats in the back row or having to taxi the kids everywhere, I really want to treat myself a car with better driving experience whilst still having the space and not breaking my bank. To this end, I have set eye on the Octavia accepting that being a VAG car it will probably be less reliable than my current soulless Toyota/Honda. It is perhaps for this same reason my heart really desires a RS over the Style. Having said that, I fully admit that I will very rarely need the kind of power that is in the RS considering how I have been driving in the past 15 years. The primary uses of the car will still be as a daily commuter to work and occasionally longer road trips between towns, so whilst it may not be as reliable my current Japanese car it still need to work most of the time. The reported problems with the. DQ381 are really giving me pause. As you can see, I am still rather torn between the Style and the RS. 😔

Thanks, you are indeed correct!!!! I've removed the A pillar trim and relocated the wires.

Finally got round to do this on my B16 DCCs and it has a made a difference!

I think there are some temporary blips and inflections in EV sales due to withdrawals of subsidies but just down the road, later this year, there are crops of EVs that will be similar RRP and aligned with cheaper running costs they should bump the EV numbers up. EV owners like me are also looking to chop and change and there could be some mega deals as manufacturers do everything ie sell new ones at cost or loss to make their 22% EV target and avoid the 15k per vehicle hit if short. They may do heaps of pre registering of course too.

Many thanks! I don't have OBD11/VCDS, but will investigate further!

I see VarioFlex seats are no longer standard on the SE-L; additional cost option.

The HALDEX 5 system is a good system as long as the fluid and filter in the transfer box is changed every 20k miles (and not 40k as recommended). Basically a lot of time the HALDEX system fails due to the pump trying to overcome the pressure of the fluid and failing due to a dirty filter. Now what happens is that when this occurs, it *does not* throw a code (ask me how I know - see my posting on this when I owned my 2019 Scout). So...you are left with no engagement on the 4 wheel drive system. It cost about £160 to get it done every 20k. What they don't tell you is *how* to engage the HALDEX 5 box. You have to loose traction on the front wheels for the system to engage. The garage is right when they say it is not a permanent 4x4 system.

Wrong link posted 🤦

@Aspman Please try. & Tesco,s are selling J.G. Ross the bakers (Aberdeen) . The same as were delivered to across the road from me each week. , there are ones in plain Tesco bags, 6 not well fired, or G.R. Ross 4 pack. Expensive.

why not ask the leasing company what service they expect to be carried out ?

@ApertureS actually LIN is yellow, 12V is purple and GND is black

Madness Edited: Don't know why it appeared twice the first time i posted

X relay switches off various current/power consumers that might be switched on during starter motor operation, to maximise energy availability for the starter.

Are you sure you don't like them.. I mean you seem to be sitting on the fence.