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Are you getting blue grey smoke which would point to rings. Maybe a compression test. Another thought would be if its doing short runs and too many failed dpf regens it will over time dilute oil with diesel which may be getting past turbo seals or getting dumped into intercooler. Once oil gets thin it disappears pretty quickly but I would assume car would be smoking badly Alasdair

Thank you nbramwell and Rafal78 (and some others) for your replies. Having received some answers from the service rep I now intend phoning VW Warranty people tomorrow. I also subscribe to the Which? Legal service who offer advice and help with consumer issues so I'll be booking a call. I will post updates because I do appreciate the advice various members have posted.

If the car is under some kind of warranty which covers the gearbox, it either works properly or it doesn't. If it doesn't work properly, it is irrelevant whether the solution is a clutch pack adjustment or a clutch pack replacement. I had a DSG fabia some years ago which needed a clutch pack replacement when it was around a year or so old. It was done under warranty by a Skoda dealer who said they needed the car for 2 days. At the end of day 1, they rang me to say the work had been done but it was too late for me to pick the car up that evening. For the dealer to say they need the car for a week is a joke as is their attitude in this case. Fight them as far as you can.

Are you changing to exact same baterry? If new one has the same parameters all you have to do is just put new serial number....You can use obd11, Car Scanner or other obd readers to code new baterry..

Solved: clunking from the front suspension turned out to be the bottom nut on the anti-roll bar/drop link. It wasn’t obvious when everything was bolted together because the joint was still being held under load, so the play was effectively hidden. Once I undid the top nut, the anti-roll bar/drop link could move freely and the fault became clear. If you have a metallic clunk or boing over bumps, it’s worth checking the anti-roll bar nuts are tight. Thanks to everyone who offered suggestions.

My skoda octavia 2.0L diesel has high oil consumption. It has no leaks and rocker cover replaced so that includes PCV valve replaced Uses approx10 or 12 litres between services. Engine has good power. Is the rings an issue here

What is your average mileage travelled between services?

I went for 5mm wide x 500mm long 110lm/m 12w/m led strip. So it'll be about 6w 'extra' over the existing rwo w5w bulbs.

Oil pan seal ?

Those are some nice figures too. Sorry I'm bit confused...are you stage 1+ or stage 2 yet? I'm thinking to go stage 3 maybe next year but i know it will not stay there...my dream build would be either fully forged engine or engine swap from RS3 😎 but that's lot of money. Maybe Powermax or Littco turbo upgrade with uprated LPFP and HPFP but time will tell. Dongle that Kalam sells fo £66 and Simos tool app will tell you horse power and torque during pulls which eliminates the need of a dyno runs. Kalam has explained to me that dyno figures can be misleading and not always accurate due to few factors....car being strapped too much or not enough, not calibrated dyno etc I have just noticed that yours is L&K which makes it even more or a sleeper 😁 Not sure if your engine has different torque limits than mine. Is yours DQ381? Mine says 600nm for stock internals but has been pushed to more. Not sure if you seen RE Performance Skoda Superb sleeper they done to 477hp with stock internals. Regarding induction kit i decided to keep standard airbox in but used Ramair panel filter. ECS tuning intake duct took care of that dreaded blocked intake and was only under £200 from Awesome GTI and still looks fairly OEM. I like what you've done to your car, very Q status i have to say, bet it surprises few unsuspecting wannabe racers 😁

RL says 430bhp and 550NM; it could be better as we cut out the front plastic trim for better induction airflow behind the grille - or it could be worse as it’s an average quote and it’s below average. Engine-wise; R600 and inlet pipe, Wagner intercooler and charge pipes (turbo to intercooler - intercooler to throttle body), upgraded plugs and coil packs just to make sure it’s a decent spark. RL ‘Stage 1+’. Stage 2 will be downpipe and then should be 450bhp and 588NM. Then Powermax2….🤪 Can’t go for loud as family car and will get it in the neck. Hence Trackslag downpipe with no GPF but with their additional silencer to keep noises subtle. At the point of getting the turbo in and finish playing with it physically it might be worth going to Kalam

Warrior193 is on the money here. I have no idea why Skoda - even now on brand new cars - are still fitting lights with W5W bulbs. Maybe they bought eleventy billion ten years ago. They're also guilty of changing the connector to the light unit randomly, too. With a bit of cunning the light fitting can be disassembled to get to the W5W bulb. Not all LED bulbs will fit, but they're cheap enough to try 2 or three models. These photos are from a 2020 Octavia 4. The 2026 Kamiq I have also done was even easier to dismantle - just a snap fit thin plastic cover. But I like also the 12V Led strip idea.

I routed mine (estate) via the wiring loom & rubber gaiter. I didn’t want anything hanging down if I’m shoving stuff in back door (no pun intended). It’s tricky getting the usb socket through the gaiter, and getting the trim back on the tailgate but it’s doable and a nice neat solution.

Hi, Our 67 plate Kodiaq's radio has today decided to keep turning itself on after a minute. Never happened before. It is occurring when the car is locked and unlocked. It's not been particularly hot today. We've had the car since 2019 and this has never happened before. Recent things happened which may not be related: For a few months the dashboard has stated 'replace battery key' and I have a new Google Pixel 9a phone that has recently connected to it. Bit concerned its going to drain the battery. Any ideas? Thanks Staro

Done a reset by holding the power button for 10 seconds and that seems to have cured it. Fingers crossed.

@JayLibove looking at your eBay link, the items being posted from Shenzhen, China, so more than likely the person is just reselling it from AliExpress quick Google on their site comes up with similar items for a lot cheaper but I don’t know how the price would change for your location

Hello mate, downpipe is BCS Powervalve with 200cell high flow cat Cat back system is custom made by German company called Friedrich Motorsport back in 2021 and it's fully valved just like the standard OEM system. Pops are activated by driving mode

I have same issue on my Dq381 gearbox. Intermittent "gearbox in emergency mode" message, limp mode only 2,4,6 and R available and couple of times got stuck in 2 gear.. Once on German Autobahn🤦. Repaired by Skoda - replaced one of the clutch control modules, service of the dsg gearbox done. Cost me £1200 but they gave me 2 years warranty for "whatever happens" with the gearbox. Every dealership is different and some trying to rob us. Be persistent, expect answers with details and don't let them ignore you.... Good luck!

As a purchaser of the one-handed nut setting tool I can support this recommendation. Think "pop rivet pliers" on steroids!

If possible, splash out a bit for the two-handed type of rivnut setter, rather than the type that looks like a regular pop riveter. You really want the rivnut to be 'set hard' so that there's less likelyhood of it rotating in the hole. The rivnuts have splines up the side to help prevent this, close hole size is important.

Yes

Skoda have recently resolved the issue. The Skoda dealership supported by Skoda identified that the car battery was being drained by a Kenwood camera that is recommended by Skoda and installed by a Skoda garage. The fix proposed by Kenwood was to connect by a proprietary interface and modify a voltage setting in the Camera.

Happend on an old van of mine. Solanoid stuck and starter stayed engaged. My father was driving and didnt notice. Totaled the starter. If the large cable is disconnected it shouldnt turn over but you should here a click as it engages and disengages. If the small cable is disconnected and it starts then its stuck open. I would remove starter and test on bench. plus check there is no voltage at small cable with ignition off in case its permanently live and the fault is in ignition switch or a short somewhere. Alasdair

Yep, there is bamboo in my boot right now! ;)

Thank you for the suggestions, everyone. Very, very much appreciated. The Rivnut makes sense. I have never used one before which is why it never occurred to me, I guess. Enjoy the rest of the weekend!

Olly Molly....that exhaust is spot on!! Great numbers with the tune! Well done in getting it sorted.

I bought these https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006419747360.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.26.21ef1802RN8g9I they fit in the rear of my boot near the back seat (2017 Superb Hatchback) and i got a spare set thinking about cutting a couple of holes in the tailgate trim and fitting them into the tailgate so once the tailgate is open light shines down i later realised that id need a switch, so started looking for 12v led lights with a built in switch, these look promising as cutting 2 round holes will be tidyer than trying to cut straight lines, but i dont know how bright they would be https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165754443736 i was thinking of wiring the led lights into the wiring for the numberplate lights, as the extra lights would be powered off during the day,

My bad - only just listened to this. Sounds right on the money. Agree 100% telling you what he's done is brilliant for those that want to know and are interested. The RL stuff is great but I've got no idea how they've achieved what they have - and I haven't RR'd it so no idea what its actually producing.

Cheers bro 🙏🏻 yes definitely knows his stuff and very very informative he will tell you what he did and what and how he wants you to do next thing. Real credit to car scene. Also got my pops and burbles detuned slightly so they are bit more civilised 😁 VID-20260715-WA0007.mp4

Just a small update, ran a last revision by Kalam @ Russell Road and Racing on the weekend and final numbers are 410hp and 554nm. Car is running sweet and no hiccups. He is happy with the results and so am i 😎💪🏻

Not misguided here... We've had an Octavia II 4x4 and now a Kodiaq 4x4 and always knew how it worked from day one... It's a great system. However you are slightly incorrect as with the newer versions of Haldex in the Kodiaq and other vehicles there is always some engagement of power to the rear wheels, but at a low percentage. Also the drive to the rear on the newer versions is to some degree predictive and will engage based on a variety of factors such as throttle position and steering angle etc.

Skoda Kamiq Workshop Manual - Maintenance Maintenance.pdf

The UK Grid needs to evolve as all Grids need to throughout the world due to massive home generation and also massive home battery storage. If there is any Black Outs or Brown Outs one will soon see which homes and businesses have invested in resilience by their lights still on. UK home generation is now estimated at over 3 GWs though this is of course dependent on good solar input. Storage, business and home, is over 10 GWh by many estimates and that figure is expected to increase several fold over the next 4 or 5 years. Projects like the Great Glen, 30 GWh, will add to Dinorwig's 9 GWh plus other slammer plants to increase resilience. Of course their are "Preference Trips" in place which trip out some business and loads such as street lights to maintain supply to homes and hospitals which could be running breathing assistance equipment though hospitals should have emergency gennies which I expect are being replaced with battery systems as a matter of course. Electricity is the only way forward though backup to Grid supplies are needed of course, even if that is ICE as no one if their right mind should object to ICE, or gas turbines as with power stations, being an emergency backup for a few hours.