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The old girl still polishes up well ....

The end of a very hot day 🥵

At the Res earlier................

Brake fluid used to be first @ 2 years then each 2. About 2010 changed to first @ 3 years then each 2. Since the VW Emissions Scandal things changed to First @ 2 years then every 2 years. Customers are the Goose that keep laying Golden Eggs.

This is for a 1.4l, but might be of help to you.

I tend to take photos with either a Minolta Dimage F100 or an S304, depending on the situation. However, my Mum's Kodak EasyShare I found in a drawer. It's not that bad, it kept overexposing slightly in automatic mode, so I've compensated for that when loading the images into Ulead PhotoExpress 3.0 (yeah it's about 25 years old but works bob on).

Duly noted. 👍

The Cygnets were paddling flat out to keep up with Mum! 1070898~2.mp4 And a few others we spotted......... 1070802~3.mp4

I bought some black/white Skoda badges from AliExpress but the white wasnt quite right (more like candy white rather than Moon White of my car) and wasn't the clean look I was hoping for. I refuse to pay £100 for two Skoda badges from Kopacek so decided to make my own. I ordered another pair of Black/White badges from AliExpress. I thought I would use the White background ones so that the paint had a pale base layer to go onto. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009424974993.html I then ordered some colour matched spray paint including clear lacquer. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166899014624 And finally some specialist hard plastic glue as SuperGlue doesn't work well on the ABS plastic these badges are made from https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0001OZI5C First step was to dissasemble the badges. These come off quite easily with a slight bend of the back plate and gentle pry from a trim tool. I labelled each badge A/B and put the black parts in labelled bags so that they would reassemble properly. The whole of the white area of the badge as roughed up with some fine sandpaper and then wiped over with Isopropyl alcohol to remove any dust and residue. These then had 3 gentle coats of basecoat At this point I was slightly concerned that the colour didnt look much different so I painted a small portion of the cardboard with OEM touch up paint as comparison and it was spot on. This can be seen at the bottom right of the above picture, so I was happy to crack on. Next was two gentle coats of clear lacquer and this really brought out the colour and the metallic in the base coat. The photos really don't do it justice. Then came reassembly. The glue is the type that gets applied to both parts separately, allowed to dry for a few minutes and then assembled. These went back together well and will be left for a couple of days to fully cure. In between the rain showers I had to have a quick comparison with what I started with. It looks brilliant in person and hopefully shows up on the photo below. With the car clean, and not covered in rain, I think the colour match will be perfect and a certain improvement over the standard AliExpress badge. Total cost was just under £30 so cheaper than one Kopacek badge without delivery and took approx half an hour of work and a couple of hours of drying time all in. No real skill required other than a gentle hand on dissasembly and ensuring light coats of paint to avoid runs. Im not sure if OEM badges dissasemble in the same way, so this could potentially be done with an OEM Monte Carlo badge to ensure fitment to the car is perfect. I shall await some better weather and get them installed on the car and update with further pictures when that's done.

2nd job was to fit the dog guard and divider. I was marvelling at how big the boot was and then I put the dog in the car.

Hello guys, I am Nic from France. I have a bright red Skoda Scala. I always joke to my girlfriend that "in the fog, it looks like a Ferrari...". Thankfully she loves me for more than my sense of humour as I have other qualities (I look like Brad Pitt... in the fog). Anyway, nice to meet you all, nice day and safe travels!

There was a member posting about spurious oil level warnings on a new car of about the same vintage, a few years ago, I think. Dealer had several goes at fixing it. Wish I could remember the member's name. Don't worry about the cold level, just remember how it relates to operating temperature level, for convenience. Some people swear the level will be higher when cold. My experience is the opposite.

Yes Bap, I contacted the dealer today about the registration docs, only to be told that the they had yet to receive the docs themselves from the previous owner! But they assure me that I will have the registration doc by next wednesday..... In any case, a very helpful Briskoda member named Pete, deciphered the VIN, and now I have proof that my Kodiak is indeed a front wheel drive, code 1XO. Next stop, contact the insurance again, and persuade them that the car is a FWD instead of their listed AWD. Fun times ahead!! Thanks and Best Regards, Jim

TBH I'd be changing insurer if they can't even get vehicle details correct from a registration plate or VIN

Before anything else, check the 12v battery condition. Even a slight drop in voltage can cause a variety of intermittent electrical gremlins in these cars.

The time has come to bid farewell to my Superb, shes served me well with only servicing/tyres costs for the last 5 years. I usually move when a car hits 100k but kept until 123k. Its a move thats not come easy but time to make a leap of extreme faith into an Audi EV (don't hate please),

Oulton Park Yesterday, a mate was racing. Weather wasn’t so good.

First visit of the year to Coningsby.... 1440078~3.mp4 1440077~3.mp4

That’s a wrap! pause for applause and general mirth A nice bit of morning sunshine and no plans with the family meant I could finally finish wrapping the passenger side chrome strip. The rear quarter light has some dings on the chrome from an unknown event with the previous owner so that took about 4 failed attempts to get right. Eventually got it looking good enough with the only tiny crease of the whole project. It looks great from a distance, just don’t look too closely! As I say with a lot of my projects “Stevie Wonder would be pleased to see it” Just the roof rails to swap out and then the full dechrome is complete. They require a guaranteed dry day so may be some time before I attempt that!

Just a quick point: the transfer case for the rear axle of the 4x4 is a Haldex Gen 6, manufactured by BorgWarner. As a former supplier of the complete transfer case, I can tell you that VW themselves extend the maintenance interval. BorgWarner has completely different recommendations 😜

I had a sense last night's Sunset might be a decent one 🌞

That’s just the trouble, People don’t think! I’m always super paranoid working around airbags and routing cables. It takes no more than a few minutes extra and some small Cable ties to be sure.

Hello there. Freshly downloaded. Take a piece if you need ;) https://1drv.ms/f/c/d868f7f8e8ece8e8/Eh7N58_7gyZCtogSIt8kgisB4ZszuIGLrZTSSsdabNOtZw?e=5mWfuG

Took a wheel off to test fit the new black centre caps. Non OEM so expected they would need some fettling. Nothing a few rounds of insulation tape on the back side won’t fix. First time using positioning pins for installing the wheels. What a game changer! I also ordered a 1/2” drive adaptor for my drill as I don’t own an impact. That’s a revelation too. Very useful for running nuts in once started by hand, and out and also operating scissor jack. Effortless to lift the car

Love is in the air 😍 1430349~4.mp4 And a few others from today.........

Surely it doesn't really matter either way if you treat zero as zero... Which is what most sensible people do

The dealer I use was so mortified by me refusing the 2yr brake fluid change that they did it anyway FOC. They also replaced the a/c compressor under warranty as it was noisy, so I didn;t get asked about having it regassed. The new one is just as noisy mechanically but doesn't screech (which I think may have just been the gas being low), and the one on the courtesy car (same car as ours) was noisy too. Our Ateca and Kamiq have silent a/c. Anyway, it's going in next week for its 4yr service and I was contacted today and asked about having them done for the bargain price of £199. Gulp. On it's own they said they'd do the brake fluid for £80 instead of the normal £100. Where on earth do these price come from - £100 to change the brake fluid seems insane! It also really hacks me off that the car has All In, and yet All In is anything but!

So i did 120 miles for £3. Then i put in £7 charging. Then another £19 and have done 170 miles. Now at 98%. Showing 175 mile range but in my 160 miles to get home i will put in a £5 charge on the way. So £34 for 330 miles and there will be maybe 30 miles range once home. No charging issues with last 2 chsrges @ 65 pence and 55 pence a kWh. Real life EV travel like this maybe half the time, or more when using familiar charging places. When it is crap experiences is often when in a hurry ,or during bad weather and when i lesst want the hsssle. A 300 mile plus range and home charging is obviously more sensible than a low range BEV. EDIT. Stopped for dogs to stretch legs, plugged in for 5 minutes and put in 4 kWh. £2.69. Got home with 30 miles range. (Average speed including stop 50 mph. Half was Motorway.)

How soon after stopping the engine did you check the level and was the car on level ground? If you did it too quick there could be too much in. I would be worried if my reading was over max when cold whatever the instructions on filling it were. Run the engine until at temp, park on level ground, wait at least 5 min then check the level. If it is still more than 1mm or 2 above max i would be looking for a way to get some out 1:The danger is that if you overfill it hot. when you check it cold the level could read lower 2: It should be lower when cold because liquids expand when heated. The confusion in all this is the drain down factor. Overnight a lot more drains down than in 5 minutes so the manufacturer wants the parts lubricated and below the max as a goal. Too much oil can be as bad as too little. Filling to max is not necessary the reading needs to be "Between" under the circumstance explained in the handbook that's the point of the dipstick and the instructions. It will say check the level is between and don't go over max it doesn't say check the level and fill to the max.

Opening the hood will temporarily cancel the low oil warning even if nothing is added. You say oil level 'seems fine' but whereabouts between the dipstick marks is it? If the warnings persists while oil level is fully at the max. level mark. it is probably a faulty sensor. Good practice to regularly check all fluid levels manually - not rely on warning indicators.

Depends if there was any load on it when you measured that voltage. Open circuit voltage doesn't give much clue about what it does when there is a draw on it.

As above, they started showing up from MY19 onwards, with the 280/272 Superb. Though in some markets, they continued to get the DQ250 for a few more years. DQ250 is DSG-6 wet clutch. DQ381 is DSG-7 wet clutch

Well... Based on previous experience bugger all... Except the pride In knowing you guessed correctly. 😉 If you're lucky I'll post a picture of it tomorrow as a reward.

Quite old for a hire car I didn't stand a chance 😁 G

Thanks. As you predict, Skoda are being no help at all. Dismissive even. I am so angry at the lack of customer service. Their website says Skoda website says “"Tow bar preparation" for the Škoda Superb IV means the vehicle is equipped with the necessary fittings and wiring to easily attach a tow bar, but the actual tow bar is not installed. This allows for the tow bar to be fitted later, either by a dealer or specialist garage, without major modifications. This preparation includes mounting points and electrical connections needed for towing, making it simpler and quicker to add a tow bar when required. It ensures the vehicle is ready for safe towing once the tow bar is installed and properly secured.” Nowhere does this state that the towbar must be a Skoda manufactured one. I am not giving up...

Now if they would make an electric Octavia estate..... that would be my sweet spot.

My 2024 Octavia has now been back to the dealer multiple times for this exact issue, most recently for a three-week period of diagnosis and road testing with Skoda technical involved after we rejected the vehicle. Skoda have emailed the dealer to say the issue is caused by the engine ECU shutting down the engine in order to protect the dual mass flywheel when it detects a potential stall condition at low RPM. So it's working as designed and there is no fault. Their official guidance is to modify your driving style to avoid low RPM in higher gears. I have searched through the user manual and on Skoda's website but can find no mention of this. Learner drivers have been taught the "brakes to slow, gears to go" mantra and to use block gear changes for decades (as per DVSA guidance), so for VW Group to tell us otherwise is astonishing. I have kept a detailed log of incidents and I will now be submitting a report to DVSA.

Now fitted on the car and much better clean look I was after.

Now installed. Forgot to get a “before” picture of the back! Before: After:

Definitely a lemon, I've wasted my money on new cars since 2002 and never had one with faults like these. I would take it back to be sorted out ASAP and insist on a courtesy car for the duration of the repairs.

What you have on screen is the Adaptive Cruise Control modes. These determine how fast/slow the car accelerates again after slowing down when ACC detects that the reason for slowing down is gone. These are different to the Driving modes which are Eco, Normal, Sport and Individual.

good news it was just completely low on gas. so only £100 to sort out. phew!! thanks for everyone's help!

VAQ diff was @ 3 years / 30,000 miles and Awsome GTI and others recommended 2 years / 20,000 miles, then Skoda changed to 2 years / 20,000 miles with Mk4,s. As it is many a Dealers Service Desk person with no mechanical knowledge says 'Optional'. This is VAQ,s i am speaking of.

Under the impression? Usually? Or told definitely by multiple dealers and Skoda UK? Can't see anything that says they're lifetime on the internet.

Again, absolutely not, under any circumstances - not even close. The only “lifetime” thing from VW is the DQ200 box, and even that has two oils you want to be changing circa 100k. Again, in the previous generation of cars, the VAQ wants doing at a maximum of 30,000 miles or 3 years. In MQB Evo models, this has been reduced to 20,000 miles or 2 years. It’s a similar interval for Haldex AWD systems. You will want the fluid changed, and the pump screen/gauze cleaned. I do mine every year, and have just done the gearbox at 40k - 80k is no good. Ditto with the gearbox, there is a filter to change too, even if the dealer often doesn’t do it.

Had my superb stage 2 tuned and so far i love it 😁 Work and parts fitted BCS Powervalve downpipe with sport cat 200 cell Wagner Intercooler ECS tuning intake duct Ramair panel filter Ramair turbo elbow Ramair inlet pipe NGK R7437-9 plugs Stage 2 engine tune Stage 2 DSG tune Prior to this i also had all the fluids changed and full service carried out. More photos and videos to follow

As already mentioned, check your tyre pressures when you get home. Before you leave the dealership, check for any damage to bodywork or interior trim. Take someone with you that can go over the car whilst you're doing the paperwork. The excitement of collecting a new car can give you rose tinted glasses so let someone else check it. Also be sure to check under the car as well especially side sills (rocker panels) for damage.

Not today, but finally found the way how to convert seat unit from 5Q0959760B/C/D/E/F to 3Q0 with lumbar massage About an hour of soldering, then firmware, and we get a unit with a massage

Many thanks for the comments. We went ahead and simply got the battery changed at a different branch of Halfords. The guy there didn't quibble at all. All now seems good, stop-start working properly, no warning lights. Fingers crossed! Cheers.

Yes don,t do anything before speaking to them. I would tell them that the keys were stolen/cloned and someone is accessing car. They will probably have an approved auto locksmith that they use and if you do anything yourself will probably not pay out. Might be worth explaining situation to them. As far as I know cloning keys and accessing a vehicle without permission and causing damage are all criminal offences and the police should do something. Hope you get it sorted. Alasdair