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The old girl still polishes up well ....

The end of a very hot day 🥵

At the Res earlier................

A couple of jobs done today. Replaced the drivers door inner seal as the original one had worn from driver getting in and out. The second hand one I got from eBay had a little wear but hadn’t split so I just rotated it about 45 degrees so the wear was on the back edge where it won’t wear any more. Pretty simple fit, you just have to take a couple of trim pieces off. As I had already had some of the trim off and it was finally a sunny afternoon I thought I would tackle installing the black roof rails. Thanks to @Kosin for the install tips. Pretty much remove anything attached to headliner around the edges, all pillar trims and top boot trims. To remove the sun visors and handles you need the OEM/Laser long nose flat pliers at £60 to £30. Luckily Ali express to the rescue again with a cheap tool that does the job perfectly for £3 https://a.aliexpress.com/_EHRShvy To access the rear of the front pair of bolts you have to disconnect the plug from the curtain airbag igniter. Not too much bother with the battery disconnected and an appropriate wait time to make sure everything is powered down. Apart from when I had fully reinstalled the liner and trims and got an airbag error warning and realised I had forgotten to reconnect the passenger side! Doh! So that half all got disassembled again to reconnect it. Now all done everything back in its place and all fault codes cleared with no issue. All in about 3hrs work. It would have been 2.5 without my airbag mistake! So that’s the last of the dechrome jobs done and now full Sportline-ish exterior spec (apart from wheels and stance both of which are outside the budget for now!)

Brake fluid used to be first @ 2 years then each 2. About 2010 changed to first @ 3 years then each 2. Since the VW Emissions Scandal things changed to First @ 2 years then every 2 years. Customers are the Goose that keep laying Golden Eggs.

This is for a 1.4l, but might be of help to you.

I tend to take photos with either a Minolta Dimage F100 or an S304, depending on the situation. However, my Mum's Kodak EasyShare I found in a drawer. It's not that bad, it kept overexposing slightly in automatic mode, so I've compensated for that when loading the images into Ulead PhotoExpress 3.0 (yeah it's about 25 years old but works bob on).

Duly noted. 👍

The Cygnets were paddling flat out to keep up with Mum! 1070898~2.mp4 And a few others we spotted......... 1070802~3.mp4

I bought some black/white Skoda badges from AliExpress but the white wasnt quite right (more like candy white rather than Moon White of my car) and wasn't the clean look I was hoping for. I refuse to pay £100 for two Skoda badges from Kopacek so decided to make my own. I ordered another pair of Black/White badges from AliExpress. I thought I would use the White background ones so that the paint had a pale base layer to go onto. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009424974993.html I then ordered some colour matched spray paint including clear lacquer. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166899014624 And finally some specialist hard plastic glue as SuperGlue doesn't work well on the ABS plastic these badges are made from https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0001OZI5C First step was to dissasemble the badges. These come off quite easily with a slight bend of the back plate and gentle pry from a trim tool. I labelled each badge A/B and put the black parts in labelled bags so that they would reassemble properly. The whole of the white area of the badge as roughed up with some fine sandpaper and then wiped over with Isopropyl alcohol to remove any dust and residue. These then had 3 gentle coats of basecoat At this point I was slightly concerned that the colour didnt look much different so I painted a small portion of the cardboard with OEM touch up paint as comparison and it was spot on. This can be seen at the bottom right of the above picture, so I was happy to crack on. Next was two gentle coats of clear lacquer and this really brought out the colour and the metallic in the base coat. The photos really don't do it justice. Then came reassembly. The glue is the type that gets applied to both parts separately, allowed to dry for a few minutes and then assembled. These went back together well and will be left for a couple of days to fully cure. In between the rain showers I had to have a quick comparison with what I started with. It looks brilliant in person and hopefully shows up on the photo below. With the car clean, and not covered in rain, I think the colour match will be perfect and a certain improvement over the standard AliExpress badge. Total cost was just under £30 so cheaper than one Kopacek badge without delivery and took approx half an hour of work and a couple of hours of drying time all in. No real skill required other than a gentle hand on dissasembly and ensuring light coats of paint to avoid runs. Im not sure if OEM badges dissasemble in the same way, so this could potentially be done with an OEM Monte Carlo badge to ensure fitment to the car is perfect. I shall await some better weather and get them installed on the car and update with further pictures when that's done.

2nd job was to fit the dog guard and divider. I was marvelling at how big the boot was and then I put the dog in the car.

So, it's about time I introduced my personal vehicle: Seat Leon 5F ST Facelift FR Year of manufacture 2017, 150 hp TSI A little about me: I'm 38 years old and from beautiful Styria, Austria. What I've done to the Leon so far: Retrofit for the assistant camera Retrofit for the lane change assist Retrofit for the tow bar Retrofit for Area View, which was never available from the factory on the 5F Leon. Retrofit for Area View, which was never offered as standard on the 5F Leon. Retrofit Virtual Cockpit Retrofit MIB2 Standard Navigation with MOST and DAB+ Retrofit Fabric Trim such as Glove Box, Door Pockets, etc. Retrofit Skoda Octavia 4VRs Massage Seats Retrofit Focal Speakers; the vehicle was originally equipped with the Seat sound system, but I'm now very satisfied with the sound quality. Retrofit Trunk Spare Cargo Area Carpet Retrofit Seat Leon KL Heated Steering Wheel Retrofit Door Handle Exterior Lighting (front only) Retrofit Red OEM Brake Calipers (front and rear) Retrofit Ateca Rotary Knob for Driving Profile Selection Retrofit 18" Cupra Cup Wheels These are some of the major retrofits. Other modifications included: Chrome Roof Rack replaced with Gloss Black Gloss Black Rear Bumper Insert Gloss Black Rieger Diffuser Second LED Lighting in the Left Side of the Trunk Rear Seat Upgraded with Illuminated OEM Audi Seatbelt Buckles Rear Doors Equipped with ambient lighting, controllable via MIB Rear footwell lighting retrofitted Ambient lighting extended to the front storage compartment for the mobile phone, as well as the ring around the 12V socket. Additional lighting added to the dashboard. Climatronic unit replaced with a VW unit due to the white lighting and the ability to activate the steering wheel heating simultaneously with the seat heating. Passenger sun visor replaced with a driver's sun visor (UK) to avoid the airbag markings. Light switch replaced with a white version; this will be implemented throughout the entire vehicle. Red switches will be replaced with white. Fog light bezels replaced with gloss black ones. Frameless rearview mirror installed. Of course, a few projects remain: Replace front seatbelt buckles with illuminated ones; parts are on order. Replace grille with OEM Cupra black grille. Install side skirts. Install rear spoiler. Install OPS 360° with Park Assist. Parts are ready for installation. Retrofit seatbelt height adjustment; it's inconvenient. I'm quite surprised, especially as a previous Skoda driver... Yes, that's pretty much it. Maybe @Binx1310 or @JR RS or @Bap33 or @travs or other colleagues will stop by here. A few quick snapshots from the not-so-clean, tidy car.

Had the car 10 Years from new and the car is now at 97500 miles. 10th Service and Seventh MOT done last year ( 2025 ) with nothing to report. 11th Service and Eighth Mot done last week (2026 ) with nothing to report. Still only had one MOT advisory in its life. Car is still on original brakes all round, original clutch, & battery. Apart from normal servicing it has wanted: - Lower front suspension arm rear bushes. ( the MOT advisory ) Passenger front electric window fuse! A look at / fix the AC recirculation flap motor housing. Lower front grill, that was both chewed by a rodent and head butted by a pheasant. Inner wing O-S-F plastic cover for access to headlight bulb that went AWOL. 3 AC re gas refills. Tyres, which do about 30K miles on the front. Some headlight bulbs. H7 Osram Nightbreaker's. Wipers front and rear. Engine consumes no oil between services and can still do above 60MPG on a good tank. Still like and plan to keep the car. Thanks. AG Falco

Not true - all versions of the Mk3.5 vRS came with 18” Gemini wheels as standard. Both 230ps and 245ps variants also had 340mm front brakes - the difference is that the 245 has 310mm vented rear, rather than 272mm solid. The easiest way to tell a 230 vs a 245 is to take a look at the rear brakes. The interior stitching on the 230 is also white, whereas the 245 is red - this is probably the most useful when looking at an advert. You can also check the door sticker for the engine code. 230ps models will be CHHA or DKTA, whereas 245ps will be DLBA, DHGA or DKTB. The DKTA and DKTB variants are Euro 6 with the GPF. You’ll find people claiming that the 245 has black exhaust tips - this isn’t true. They were, technically, meant to, but a lot of them didn’t. The 230 was phased out around 2018, but build dates and dealer stock means some do exist with later registrations. You want to get the 245. The extra power is irrelevant, along with the rear brakes - but you want it for the LSD and DQ381. Nothing wrong with the 250, but the 7-speed ratios are just that bit more friendly. The LSD, frankly, makes the car what it is. You’ll find that the prices are pretty much the same - whether it’s a 230, 245, 245 Challenge or whatever. The base build spec of both cars was the same - that’s how my 2020 car has ACC, the digi dash and £600 worth of black paint on the spoiler, but manual folding mirrors and no heated seats. If you want to do some research on the 230 versus the 245, you can compare the GTI to the GTI PP. It’s the same thing. There are lots and lots of posts about this - just use the search function.

Hello guys, I am Nic from France. I have a bright red Skoda Scala. I always joke to my girlfriend that "in the fog, it looks like a Ferrari...". Thankfully she loves me for more than my sense of humour as I have other qualities (I look like Brad Pitt... in the fog). Anyway, nice to meet you all, nice day and safe travels!

The system can trigger unexpectedly and can be quite sensitive.Two examples from my own experience / one annoying and one superb. As I exit my driveway, the path dips toward the road causing the front of the Car to drop. At any speed over a few mph it will see the road as a danger and Brake. Last year I was waiting at a Mini Roundabout for an opportunity to go straight across. There was car crossing from my right and a car waiting on the road from the left. The car on the right passed me and there was no further traffic so I looked over at the car on the other side. It started to move , there were no indicators to show that it was turning right so I assumed that it was going straight on. So I started to slowly move straight ahead. Then the Car suddenly did a u turn and crossed in front of my Car. The autonomous brake sensed it and slammed on the anchors and we stopped dead.There was no contact between the cars but it was close. The Car in front then shot off down the road.All caught on my Dashcam. I spoke to a Road Traffic Officer some days later and he said as described it was a 'Baiting' technique for crash for cash , he said that if it wasn't for the fact that I was going so slow (4mph on the dashcam) and the Braking that I would be involved in an accident that would have been deemed to be my fault. Automatic Emergency Braking does have its uses.

There was a member posting about spurious oil level warnings on a new car of about the same vintage, a few years ago, I think. Dealer had several goes at fixing it. Wish I could remember the member's name. Don't worry about the cold level, just remember how it relates to operating temperature level, for convenience. Some people swear the level will be higher when cold. My experience is the opposite.

Yes Bap, I contacted the dealer today about the registration docs, only to be told that the they had yet to receive the docs themselves from the previous owner! But they assure me that I will have the registration doc by next wednesday..... In any case, a very helpful Briskoda member named Pete, deciphered the VIN, and now I have proof that my Kodiak is indeed a front wheel drive, code 1XO. Next stop, contact the insurance again, and persuade them that the car is a FWD instead of their listed AWD. Fun times ahead!! Thanks and Best Regards, Jim

TBH I'd be changing insurer if they can't even get vehicle details correct from a registration plate or VIN

Before anything else, check the 12v battery condition. Even a slight drop in voltage can cause a variety of intermittent electrical gremlins in these cars.

The time has come to bid farewell to my Superb, shes served me well with only servicing/tyres costs for the last 5 years. I usually move when a car hits 100k but kept until 123k. Its a move thats not come easy but time to make a leap of extreme faith into an Audi EV (don't hate please),

Oulton Park Yesterday, a mate was racing. Weather wasn’t so good.

First visit of the year to Coningsby.... 1440078~3.mp4 1440077~3.mp4

That’s a wrap! pause for applause and general mirth A nice bit of morning sunshine and no plans with the family meant I could finally finish wrapping the passenger side chrome strip. The rear quarter light has some dings on the chrome from an unknown event with the previous owner so that took about 4 failed attempts to get right. Eventually got it looking good enough with the only tiny crease of the whole project. It looks great from a distance, just don’t look too closely! As I say with a lot of my projects “Stevie Wonder would be pleased to see it” Just the roof rails to swap out and then the full dechrome is complete. They require a guaranteed dry day so may be some time before I attempt that!

Just a quick point: the transfer case for the rear axle of the 4x4 is a Haldex Gen 6, manufactured by BorgWarner. As a former supplier of the complete transfer case, I can tell you that VW themselves extend the maintenance interval. BorgWarner has completely different recommendations 😜

I had a sense last night's Sunset might be a decent one 🌞

That’s just the trouble, People don’t think! I’m always super paranoid working around airbags and routing cables. It takes no more than a few minutes extra and some small Cable ties to be sure.

Seems to like a regen....probably, it was some kind of interruption during this process

That'll be one person in this thread... 🤣

Little Donkey meets the basic criteria, and tbh an EV is what really suits my needs now.

It looks something like this.

Opening the bonnet can cancel the warning for 62 miles / 100 km.

Depends if there was any load on it when you measured that voltage. Open circuit voltage doesn't give much clue about what it does when there is a draw on it.

As above, they started showing up from MY19 onwards, with the 280/272 Superb. Though in some markets, they continued to get the DQ250 for a few more years. DQ250 is DSG-6 wet clutch. DQ381 is DSG-7 wet clutch

@Jim Reire No 8 speed DSG,s in Europe unless you count 7 forward and reverse. 1.5 or 1.4 FWD do not use the DQ200 7 speed twin dry clutch DSG, they get a 7 speed wet clutch DSG.

Lot of work going on Engine and all out Front off Shed load of parts to go on 6 speed has been taken from the vrsdi Spare 5 speed box from another monte gone in, bolts straight in etc, provided you swap EVERYTHING, works just fine. New shafts and all going in this. Finally the Cr170 turbo ive been sitting on for years being put to use Took some bits down to powerwash, intercooler came up insanely well, bit of polish and itll be golden. Subframe being stripped and repainted, again. Be touching up some bits of rust etc, very slight but its all apart so its being done. Turbo off. Box off. Currently at 188k miles. Clutch has had its day anyhow, never slipped never gave me any trouble, original clutch all along. Springs rattling around in it so was due in anycase. New rad and condensor. Rad was weeping slightly and not had working ac in years, used compressor going on also.

Short answer - depends on what the issues are doing - is the car actually faulty just because the systems aren't fully funtioning. You need to check with someone, that really knows, (a properly trained person in these matters) at your insurers. This you can also use to hopefully speed up getting the issue(s) sorted. Longer answer - first, 'blokes' on the internet can give their opinions and (remembered) experience, such as I'm doing, but what about knowlege, training and qualifications, personally I (ETA) don't have any in this area but how would you check if I said I did. If these systems can, freely, be turned off by the driver, usually going through driver computer menus or on switches near the driver then obviously there is a choice about their use so they're not mandatory - but - if your insurance is based on their use that would be another matter, and no doubt (ETA) anyway if there was an accident the non-use would be noted. Any system, whether used or not, doesn't take away the driver's responsibility to actually driver and control the car. If the faults in the system(s) doesn't interfere or hinder with the car being driven properly by the driver then them not working (if not mandatory) doesn't matter. Good piont about recording anything on an open public (or any) website, if you need to ask about anything that you think might (I don't think it will) get you into any trouble then contact the correct appropriate people non-publicily, it might still be recorded of course. Good luck.

Yes - truly wonderful. Didn't see an Albatross unfortunately. Very pleased to have seen this. Very distant and not the best photo, but chuffed nonetheless 👍

Hi. It would be better for yourself if you started a new topic in the correct forum for your model (Octavia MkIII) Here's a link to direct you there where other MkIII owners can hopefully help out. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/235-skoda-octavia-mk3-2013-2020/

Hi folks, Had a call from my local dealer yesterday to confirm that my new Elroq has arrived (ordered start of February), and it’s due for collection on Thursday. Really looking forward to it! It’ll be my first EV, and I’m coming from a 66‑plate Skoda Superb L&K 2.0 TDI with just over 141,000 miles on it. I've had it almost 10 years, love it. I’ve already had a Hypervolt 3 charger installed, so everything’s ready to go. Pretty buzzing! For those who already own an Elroq: Do you have any advice for a first‑time EV owner? Anything I should check, set up, or be aware of when I pick it up (other than just enjoying it 😄)? I’ve got a feeling the standard tyres might not be the best—bit disappointing from Skoda on a car at this price point—but I’m not quite ready to drop nearly £1k on a set of Continental all‑seasons just yet. Car: Škoda Elroq SportLine 85 Added Equipment: Graphite Grey Metallic Front aluminium door‑sill covers Front & rear mud flaps Foldable tow bar Winter Package Maxx Package Heat pump Driver Package 5‑year / 100,000‑mile extended warranty

A few from this evening........ 1440152~3.mp4

Now if they would make an electric Octavia estate..... that would be my sweet spot.

Now installed. Forgot to get a “before” picture of the back! Before: After:

Sounds very much a lemon.

As a little extra, even the VW R models, Audi RS3, and Mercedes A-Class AMG, Cupra etc...have a multi-plate friction clutch; only the high-performance models have two of them, and the preload is achieved differently. However, the complete system isn't a VW or Audi development. It also comes from our company. Currently, we're offering the electrification of this model. 😜

Gen 5

VAQ diff was @ 3 years / 30,000 miles and Awsome GTI and others recommended 2 years / 20,000 miles, then Skoda changed to 2 years / 20,000 miles with Mk4,s. As it is many a Dealers Service Desk person with no mechanical knowledge says 'Optional'. This is VAQ,s i am speaking of.

Under the impression? Usually? Or told definitely by multiple dealers and Skoda UK? Can't see anything that says they're lifetime on the internet.

A mod might merge the 2 post / threads asking the same thing.

You Guys are amazing! Thank You for all. Everything Works perfect! Keep up the good work