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I got frustrated listening to the Football so nipped out and snapped the sunset.................

In Kent for a week. Went along to Dungeness.

links in head post have been updated MQB2_Europe_v1.10.66 MQB3_JND_Europe_v1.31.66 MQB3_LGe_Europe_v1.31.66 ICAS3_LGe_Europe_v1.31.66

LEDs typically draw lower current than filament lamps, plus I'm pretty sure the trunk lighting circuit isn't monitored on the canbus lamp failure system. LEDs will typically be at least 3 to 5 times brighter for the same wattage filament lamp. I have occasionally seen posts where some very cheap LEDs have caused issues with flickering or not switching off correctly, but if sourced from a reputable supplier, this shouldn't be a problem.

no real updates as had family things taking up life and lost motivation i guess, but have fitted the black silicone coolant hoses 😁 and have a new genuine landing panel to drop at the body shop for colour matched paint , new radiator , condenser and receiver dryer as well as new rad mounts so a/c can work again and she can keep cool 😎

Just a small update, ran a last revision by Kalam @ Russell Road and Racing on the weekend and final numbers are 410hp and 554nm. Car is running sweet and no hiccups. He is happy with the results and so am i 😎💪🏻

This was clocked on the last MOT (Sept 2025) and listed under Minor Defects. Got it back to the same garage today to have it done as I didn't fancy the job myself after watching a few Youtube videos. The bill was £102, which I thought was reasonable and happy that it's done now and one less thing to worry about. Hope the price helps others to decide what to do.

Little update since i posted about my Superb 280 going stage 2 back in may. I have questioned the high torque figure ( 618nm) with the tuner and was assured that it's a safe map, ok i left it at that. Three days after remap, car starts burning oil without even being pushed hard. So i switched to thicker 5w40 Castrol Edge ( issue rectified) Week later i pinned it from traffic lights and car cut power after 5000rpm. Gear changes felt really rough and jerky. Questioned it with the tuner, got nowhere.... Then i found on here someone who had similar issues after going to stage 2 and they recommended speaking to Kalam at Russell Road & Racing. From start he was very helpful and informative. I decided to buy one of his dongles and run few logs for him. I was really unhappy when he run me through all the issues he found after my not so professional stage 2 remap.... 1- huge overboost in midrange that went beyond sensor capacity so we couldn't tell how much it was actually putting out 2- car running lean at certain scenarios 3- all the injectors were maxxed out to the point where one started dosing less than others 4- in other scenarios it was over fueling 5- LPFP wasn't configured properly and not providing adequate amount of fuel 6- during overboost it would loose traction in 3rd gear So yeah it hasn't been greatest of experiences and i would certainly advise anyone to do a proper research and before they give their pride and joy to some amateur who doesn't know what they doing. Luckily nothing serious happened to my superb while having the original map. Kalam has provided me fresh ECU and TCU files then with few more updated calibration maps the car is running sweet as anything, power delivery is smooth and linear, no rough upshifts or downshifts, no overheating. Best £431 spent so far 💪🏻 Old power output 390bhp and 618nm New figures after few tweaks some major some minor 405hp 550nm Also added some pops and burbles switchable by driving mode ( this is a first version of pops, they have now been brought down a bit to more OEM sound )VID_20260703_180850~4.mp4

Hello, Here are a few thoughts after 60,000 kilometres, for anyone thinking of buying an Octavia 4. I bought a second-hand car (Octavia 4 estate, TDI 150 hp (110 kW), DSG). It had almost all the features I was looking for. The car had clocked up almost 60,000 kilometres over four years when I bought it. It’s safe and economical to drive (3.7 l/100 at 110 km/h on the motorway and in low/medium mountain terrain, 4.2 at 120). I like the car for its practical features and its comfort. In short, the best car I’ve ever owned. I drive between 20,000 and 30,000 km a year. I did, however, experience a few niggles: - the infotainment system was completely buggy in 1810, until I applied the updates found on this forum; - airbag and oil sensors (fault codes cleared at the dealership); - DSG gearbox making a cracking noise when shifting to P in very hot weather (resolved with recall 37VQ); - battery died after 6 months (it was 4 years old); - A ‘POP’ sound near the wing mirror pillar, causing an error that resolves itself on the next start-up; - A dried-up water droplet just in front of the front-facing camera. The dried residue sometimes triggers an error when the sun shines on it, blocking the adaptive cruise control: an error that resolves itself on the next start-up; - the boot does not open automatically when activated with the key (a problem that is apparently well-known here). The front tyres (Michelin CC2) were replaced at 60,000 km; I plan to replace the rear ones at around 110–120,000 km. So, despite these minor issues, it’s a reliable model, and economical on fuel and tyres.

Are you getting blue grey smoke which would point to rings. Maybe a compression test. Another thought would be if its doing short runs and too many failed dpf regens it will over time dilute oil with diesel which may be getting past turbo seals or getting dumped into intercooler. Once oil gets thin it disappears pretty quickly but I would assume car would be smoking badly Alasdair

Thank you nbramwell and Rafal78 (and some others) for your replies. Having received some answers from the service rep I now intend phoning VW Warranty people tomorrow. I also subscribe to the Which? Legal service who offer advice and help with consumer issues so I'll be booking a call. I will post updates because I do appreciate the advice various members have posted.

If the car is under some kind of warranty which covers the gearbox, it either works properly or it doesn't. If it doesn't work properly, it is irrelevant whether the solution is a clutch pack adjustment or a clutch pack replacement. I had a DSG fabia some years ago which needed a clutch pack replacement when it was around a year or so old. It was done under warranty by a Skoda dealer who said they needed the car for 2 days. At the end of day 1, they rang me to say the work had been done but it was too late for me to pick the car up that evening. For the dealer to say they need the car for a week is a joke as is their attitude in this case. Fight them as far as you can.

If possible, splash out a bit for the two-handed type of rivnut setter, rather than the type that looks like a regular pop riveter. You really want the rivnut to be 'set hard' so that there's less likelyhood of it rotating in the hole. The rivnuts have splines up the side to help prevent this, close hole size is important.

Are you changing to exact same baterry? If new one has the same parameters all you have to do is just put new serial number....You can use obd11, Car Scanner or other obd readers to code new baterry..

Yes

Skoda have recently resolved the issue. The Skoda dealership supported by Skoda identified that the car battery was being drained by a Kenwood camera that is recommended by Skoda and installed by a Skoda garage. The fix proposed by Kenwood was to connect by a proprietary interface and modify a voltage setting in the Camera.

Solved: clunking from the front suspension turned out to be the bottom nut on the anti-roll bar/drop link. It wasn’t obvious when everything was bolted together because the joint was still being held under load, so the play was effectively hidden. Once I undid the top nut, the anti-roll bar/drop link could move freely and the fault became clear. If you have a metallic clunk or boing over bumps, it’s worth checking the anti-roll bar nuts are tight. Thanks to everyone who offered suggestions.

Rivnut. I would’ve used one when my mk1 Octavia shed a hatch strut, except when it failed it stretched/ bent the metal around the mounting point. I just measured a stick to use as a prop until I traded in the car 🤣

Yes, it’s the drive mode selected. On my manual ‘box 2020 1.5tsi SEL FE, I get these modes… Normal Eco Sport Individual Selectable from this screen… As yours is a hybrid I assume you’ll have a few different drives modes as well as DSG modes; symbols may vary too depending on s/ware revision levels. I usually select Individual, which I have configured to put the climate control in eco mode but leave the rest at default settings.

Ideally as soon as you can, use something like Car Scanner ELM OBD2 to register the new battery, and change the type back to EFB if needed. Be surprised if it's actually been registered as AGM in the first place, they probably just slapped it in - which may well be why it's died.

She Who Must Be Obeyed.

Try the Kopacek bulbs - they are REALLY bright! (And don't cause any unrelated bulb failure warning like some cheap Chinese ones do...)

Exactly. It's well known glitch on Matrix Headlights documented on few Internet forums. Hopefully I will get to the bottom of this. 👌

As an executive summary - this is where essentially, instead of lighting up the left side of the road and keeping it low on the right (to stop the other side being dazzled), the car does the opposite and keeps the light low on the left and lights up the right-hand side of the road?

ACTION NEEDED!!! As I'm handing car to Skoda for diagnostic to invastigate Full LED Matrix glitch on UK motorway on 24th of August and I need your help. I am fighting for pernament software patch or fixed TPI Buletin Number so everyone else can get their car fixed. Can you please reply to me with make and model of your car if experiencing same issue with Matrix headlights and your location? This list will be handed to technicians in UK and Czech who are receiving data logs from my car and also Senior management in Skoda UK and Volkswagen Group UK to flag this as not individual issue but glitch affecting thousands of drivers.. They already received my appendix with technical risk assessment and corporate product liability. Once my car being fixed I will post case reference number, software versions and how to escalate this and get your car fixed for free!

Hi, Turns out it wasn't an air lock, the mechanic showed me on his code reader the temp figures and all was normal for this engine - which he said always runs hot. The warning triangle and dash alerts were a separate issue and another common Skoda fault he said, which is the worn selector switch under the gear lever - a white plastic piece which wears out in the middle. So thankfully car is all good now and I will have the switch done in August along with my 40k DSG service. Water Pump and thermostat was replaced last week due to increased coolant loss which I'd been topping up every few weeks..

Cheers bro 🙏🏻 yes definitely knows his stuff and very very informative he will tell you what he did and what and how he wants you to do next thing. Real credit to car scene. Also got my pops and burbles detuned slightly so they are bit more civilised 😁 VID-20260715-WA0007.mp4

To me, given the description and the errors you quote I think it's not actually a gearbox or clutch issue but actually a brake sensor or hub bearing issue... Especially at that mileage.

Oil on top of cap could have been some spilt during oil change. Was there any signs of oil actually in coolant or inside expansion vessel? The white crystals are probably antifreeze thats dried out. I would top up to max and monitor it regularly. If there was oil inside vessel it may be due to oil cooler failing. Alasdair

Yellow triangle is normally a non critical fault and should be ok to drive short distances. If it turns red then stop immediately. As previously said needs scanned to pin point but normally a message is displayed. The message Put in P could be a pointer to bad switch in gear selector. Try moving through all the gears multiple times. There are I believe microswitches that can wear out or become sticky so the car doesnt reckognise it being in park when you switch engine off. Alasdair

https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/skoda/karoq/369551/new-2028-skoda-karoq-mid-size-suv-aiming-take-chinese-surprise tom

Have tested for clutch slip but none evident.

Seems like the way to go. Hope you don't have to take head off. Alasdair

No spike in revs when flooring throttle to induce any possible clutch slip

Further update: The Kamiq went in for investigation on 30th June. Verdict was "requires clutch pack adjustment as TP1 & workshop manual." Inspection report said 'covered under warranty'. However, today 13th July VW Warranty have told me that this will not be covered as it is an adjustment, not a fault being repaired. They will need the car for a week to remove the gearbox and the cost is in the region of £3k. The fact that this same Gearbox warning appeared last Sept and they replaced an oil pressure valve is irrelevant! The service staff at the dealers are being very helpful and I appreciate that it is not their decision. I am going to challenge this. Even if I pay up there's no guarantee that it won't happen again.

But you have to remember how difficult and energy sapping it is for some to flick that switch with a single finger, I recall my early days of thumping the bodywork to get the semaphore indicators both out and back in

No surprise there at all, electric should dominate, certainly on the hill climb, but speed is not the only thrill factor at play which is why so many electric performance cars have fake sounds in their speakers to replicate the missing ingredient.

I was going to have first downpipe fitted last year in Austria and the bloke couldn't fit it cos he said that they are different for LHD cars. He showed me it and the one he got was straight not bend at the turbo end if that makes sense....

Could the noise be from the clutch slipping - does the Tacho rise in sync with the noise? I assume the 'until late 2013' is a typo and you meant 2023?

I would highly recommend “Quicksilver 2-4-C marine grease”. The only grease I use on my boat and for trailer bearings - after trying many brands/ types years ago. It will stick well, remain flexible and repel water on the towball pivots, maybe a little messy putting on by hand as theres no spray can version.

Now more common Adverts saying 500 miles and plus range. eg Volvo EX60. £56,860-£70,360. Lease deals currently around £720 a month. If 400 miles is achieved without even trying that is pretty damn good. 4 miles a kWh, 100 kWh @ 7 pence a kWh, £7.00 to go 400 miles.

There is no dash indication for AC refrigerant level, you have to use a diagnostic tool to check the pressures before and after the compressor with the AC on.

It would not be a 'Recall' Unless vehicles were being 'Recalled' or Keepers notified. it would be a TPI or TSB. Technical Product Information or Technical Service Bulletin.

Hi, I live down in Cornwall with a 2021 Skoda Octavia. Im hoping to find out interesting stuff answers for keeping the car running sweetly!

Hi Everyone, My name is Sam and I recently acquired a 2017 Superb 206TSI Sportline in Carrida Red. I am happy to not only have this beautiful car but to also join this community!

i was under the impression that Lane Assist "pulls you back" into your lane if you unintentionally drift out of your lane, so if you intend to cross into another lane and indicate before starting to move into the next lane it will allow you to complete the manovure

The invoice is in the post..................

Not a car change as such, just a Superb doing what it's great at, 4 people, a boot full of luggage and two bikes going on holiday in complete comfort and still managed mid 40's mpg.

Done a reset by holding the power button for 10 seconds and that seems to have cured it. Fingers crossed.

Are you sure the original battery is AGM... They are usually quite expensive and not normally used a original equipment. I'd therefore guess the existing one, if the car has stop-start, will be EFB already.