Paul52

A rather expensive trip to the DIY centre. When I left home I shut the tailgate and I had a Skoda badge. Walking back to the car in the car park I was greeted with a black plastic disc! The badge had gone. As it was a busy car park I have to assume it fell off during the journey as I think the craze for collecting car badges (fortunately) passed a few years back. And there's no sign of damage. I've ordered a new one from Caffyns (£27 including the postage) but before it arrives has this happened to other people and, for when it arrives, is it a simple push fit over the plastic moulding, does it need fixing with double sided tape (although there's no sign of this on the moulding) or is it the worst case scenario of the whole badge has to be replaced with the tailgate trim having to come off etc. On the plus side, the car is now 8 years old and I've had to spend very little on it in those years and I've still no intention of getting rid of it.

What is it they say? "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". We will look forward to your next post at 200,000 miles.

"The local garage has been either too lazy or didn't want me to know what was done on the service". On the basis of that if it was my car even with only 30,000 miles on the clock I'd be looking for a better garage and then paying for "the works" and know I'd done all I reasonably could to prevent future problems. If money's a bit tight I might skip or delay the various filter changes and air con service but if I had any doubt whether it had been done before or not I'd definitely have the brake fluid changed - it could be fine for another year but why risk it?

Also had my screen replaced a while back. I think it was Autoglass. Took about an hour to replace on my drive and no problems afterwards.

"The local Skoda dealership said a new loom is required and suggested that writing off the car is the most economic solution". Am I the only one who finds it slightly worrying that a main dealer tells you to write off what is probable £8000+ of car and then someone on this forum suggests "splicing in can be done some distance either side of the break, at a place where the loom is easier to get at". (Well spotted Austin 7). You try it, it takes you perhaps half a day (once you know what you are doing) and less than £5 in materials and you've fixed the problem. I appreciate that you don't have a new loom but then - do you care? It's a cost effective repair to a 6 year old car and can't be seen anyway. It makes you wonder what other expensive repairs carried out by main dealers might have cheaper, effective alternatives. Glad to hear everything seems to have worked out well for you. Now, can I sell you a cat? Good mouser........

"I never posted about me having a different feel". No, you absolutely didn't. I'm having one of those days I'm afraid. "The EV is the fun car, just like driving a Kart @ a Karting Track or a Dodgem". My only experience of electric cars is driving the only electric Peugeot 106 outside of Coventry which my then team had as a pool car during one of the European Union funded transport projects. It was about as exciting as it sounds and I avoided it if I possibly could because of the constant fear of running over an unwary pedestrian. It wasn't completely fossil fuel free as it needed 1/2 gal of petrol once in a while to run the heater - when it worked, which was usually late May to early September when it would retire for the winter. Things have come on a long way since then.

Eight years of ownership and I did not know that. Always something to learn on this forum.

I agree with the advice get a competent mechanic to take a look and be safe - the last thing you want is a sudden failure to tell you what the problem was. One thought but you say you use the e-Corsa for the day-to-day driving and your other cars for the fun stuff. Just a thought but could the different "feel" be anything to do with using the fun cars less during Covid?

As the above. Your Yeti seems to be from the lower end of the range (in 2013 it was E, S, SE, SE+,Elegance) so didn't come with all the toys of the higher end models (or the price tag). If everything's working just be be grateful.

Mine is a 2013 Elegance so pre facelift and wipers and wash/wipe work when stationary and engine off.

I'm surprised you are having problems because I replaced my struts with SGS ones a couple of years ago and whilst I've had no rust problems one of them did keep popping off its pin (with the risk of the tailgate coming down). I e-mailed them, explained the problem and they sent me a set of alternative fittings which solved the problem and there was no hassle at all. Small Claims Court (I think it's Money Claim On Line you use) is an option and it's not complicated - I used it when a client decided having had the service he didn't like the bill. You do need to be absolutely precise on who you are issuing the summons against (I missed off one "Ltd" and had to start again with an additional fee) and if it is contested you may have to attend court which is time consuming but not as grand as it sounds as in my case it was a meeting in an office which could have been anywhere - very informal. If you get a judgement (which may include your fees) then you are relying on the defendant actually paying you. Mine didn't (it was for around £5000 and he was a property developer) preferring to just sit on the CCJ. Your option then is to get a High Court writ to enforce the CCJ but be very careful here. I was cold called by a very convincing firm of bailiffs, was persuaded to engage them and not only didn't I get the judgement owed me but once they had my fee became increasingly difficult to contact. In the end I took them to court, secured a CCJ and then received a string of threats about what they would do if I didn't ask to Court to dismiss. It turned out this particular company had a history of this sort of behaviour and in fact even made it to the Daily Mirror. The company was closed down but the director immediately started up another company I assume doing exactly the same thing. Apparently this is legal. The point I'm leading to is if you do have to go down that route make sure any debt recovery company or bailiffs are members of a recognised association - I believe there are two but don't have the details. And if you've read this far, there was a finally a good outcome because a couple of years later out of the blue I got an offer to settle the debt from someone I'd never heard of; I assume finally the CCJ had become an embarrassment or issue that had to be addressed. I think a (polite) registered letter is a good idea, good luck with making any progress with Trading Standards but for £40 I really wouldn't bother with MCOL. Even if you eventually succeed how much do you value your time?

I originally posted this in the Yeti forum (where there is a lot of content about leaking sunroofs) but the information might be useful to owners of other models. Talking to the garage where I have my car serving and MOTs done the topic of leaking sunroofs came up. and I said how expensive it seemed to be to get a repair let alone a new roof fitted. I was told they had fixed a few of these, most recently on another Yeti. They took it to pieces, identified and repaired the problem and put it all back together for a total bill of around £500. I don't know if that included stripping out carpets etc. and I was told this was the bill for this specific job and if a different repair then then the cost might be different. Of course I've no way of knowing if the fix was successful or whether it has lasted but if the repair hadn't been successful I don't think I would have been told about it. It's an independent garage specialising in German cars in Rowlands Castle (about 15 miles north-east of Portsmouth) and helpfully is only about two minutes walk from the station on the Portsmouth-Waterloo line. They've been doing my servicing and MOTs for a couple of years and last year did about £800 of work on brakes and front suspension. I've found them reasonably priced and reliable. Here's a link to their web-site - https://www.hallsgarageservices.co.uk/ in case they may be able to help others with this problem.

Just brought my Yeti back from it's MOT (2 advisories, a tiny oil leak picked up each year and some stone chips in the windscreen so not bad for an 8 year old car. I had planned to drop it in Sunday night so it was there for first thing in the morning but the weather yesterday was appalling and I decided with the regular reports of sunroofs leaking (and had a small ingress once a couple of years ago - just stained a small area on the headlining so I was lucky) it was better left under my car port than in the open in their yard area. I explained the change of plans and why to the Ashley the receptionist (who seems to know rather more about cars than I do) and how expensive it seems to be to remedy the problem and she replied that they had fixed one on a Yeti a little while back. Apparently they charged a few hours labour to take it to pieces, identified and repaired the problem and put it all back together for a total bill of around £500. I don't know if that included stripping out carpets etc. and she was clear that this was a specific job and if a car came in with a leak from a different problem then the cost might be different. If I understood her correctly they've fixed leaks from sunroof on a few other cars. It's an independent garage specialising in German cars in Rowlands Castle (about 15 miles north-east of Portsmouth) and helpfully is about two minutes walk from the station on the Portsmouth-Waterloo line. They've been doing my servicing and MOTs for a couple of years and last year did about £800 of work on brakes and front suspension. I've found them reasonably priced and reliable. Here's a link to their web-site - https://www.hallsgarageservices.co.uk/ in case they may be able to help some of those with this problem.

So Pixu gave you 9 years of faithful and reliable service and you are just going to let anyone who walks off the street buy her? How can you sleep at night? (Probably very well cuddled up to the keys of your new Mercedes).

Old Yeti topics never die they just fade away only to come back with a vengeance months or years later. My understanding was that CD quality was inferior to vinyl so really for the best listening pleasure surely a record deck and amp fitted into the Yeti is a must. Now there's a project. But not for me I'm fine with MP3 on an SD card. But then I'm of a generation where when we were young having more than just MW on the car radio was pretty neat and later on if you could play a cassette all the way through without being it chewed up you said a prayer to the gods of in car entertainment. As regards buying from Ama### my experience has been that when playing an Autorip CD or a downloaded album the time to the end of each track isn't shown on the display, just VBR, whereas if I rip the same CD as an MP3 it does show time elapsed and left. I find this strangely disturbing which may suggest I don't have enough to worry about in my life.

I'll start by saying car electrics (or increasingly electronics) is a compete dark art to me. But having been on this forum for several years one thing is clear - a drop in battery voltage can cause all sorts of strange and apparently unrelated problems and often one of the cheapest "diagnostics" is to have the battery checked by a competent technician or, where the age of the battery makes it appropriate, replace the battery. With car keys now so complex in their functions it could be that when you press the button it is doing things in the background that aren't immediately obvious. (It a bit like when you have a computer problem the best advice has always been switch it off and back on again - 90% of the time whatever was causing the problem has reset itself). So if it's only happening with your wife's key fob I think the first thing I'd do is have the battery in the suspect key fob changed - unless it's been done in the past its now eight years old. If it solves the problem a nice, cheap fix and at least if it doesn't solve the problem it is one thing you can eliminate. I would suggest just swapping keys with your wife and see what happens but if it is a key problem and you use the car much more than your wife you don't want to risk a complete loss of function and being stranded. If this is something that is happening pretty regularly you could of course both share the your key for a while and see if you still have the problem. If not you will know it is specific to her key, try a new battery and if that isn't successful buy a new key. If your wife uses your key and this still occurs even with that key I think you are left with garage bill to trace a mysterious fault change car change wife Unfortunately all three options could be expensive .

Can I join the club please? In May my Yeti will be 8 years new (how time flies, when I picked it up my hair was brown. Now, let's say a distinguished silver). It's been reliable, economical (for a car shaped like a brick) and very flexible for the uses it's been put to. I'd definitely have another for the same reason as others but with even the last off the production line now coming up for four years old I probably will just keep this one until it's uneconomic to repair or the parts aren't available. (Perhaps that's why Skoda stopped making them - once we'd bought one we didn't want to part with it?)

Hi. I'm not able to help with your immediate problem but seeing it is a 2011 car and we are now in 2021 it must be close to its 10 year anniversary, an age where warranties on lots of things, not just cars, can get "interesting". Clearly the warranty company isn't keen to spend out £3,000 on a car that's probably not worth a lot more than that. If you haven't already done so I would get a letter off to the warranty company documenting the problem and what you are expecting of them, whether that is a repair of the existing box (pointing out your mechanic says it is not possible) or fitting a refurbished or even second hand unit. I would also include a specific timeframe that you want this resolved in pointing out the problems not having the car on the road is causing you. Send it by registered letter requiring a signature and keep a copy of the letter and print off the delivery receipt to keep with it. (my practice is never to rely on being able to get it later "if I need it"). This way if the car passes its 10 year anniversary or the warranty expires you have it clearly documented when the problem was identified and you won't be relying on any emails or notes from phone calls and that should help you if you have to start a formal dispute. Sorry about your problem, it's probably taken the shine off what have been for many people a very good and reliable car.

I've got a 1.2TSI Elegance which came with 16" wheels (at my request - let's not go there) rather than the standard 17". The wheels are the 16" Moon alloys as fitted to the Greenline in 2013. The car came on ContiPremium Contact 2 tyres and when the time came I replaced them with the then newly introduced but well reviewed Michelin Cross Climate. I'd not been unhappy with the Contact 2s (I had nothing to compare them with) but the Cross Climates were a subtle but appreciable upgrade - I felt they gave a better grip, there was less tyre noise and the "ride" just felt better. I couldn't quantify any of these but when the time came to replace the Michelins it was an easy decision to replace them with a new set and these haven't disappointed. I only mention this in my usual long-winded way to say it might not be the wheels but the tyres that are the root of your problem. For completeness because my wheels were fitted at the original build the tyre size is 216/60R16. Whilst these might fit your wheels they might affect the accuracy of your speedometer; others will be more knowledgeable about this and whether it's likely to be significant. Hope you get it sorted.

You can only ask but like others I'd be surprised if Skoda came through. When I bought mine I bought the extended warranty, taking it from three to five years. The sunroof is explicitly excluded as it is from the subsequent renewals I've paid for so clearly Skoda themselves do have an inkling that all is not well becasue otherwise why exclude something that you don't expect to cause any problems? I been really pleased with my Yeti but the fairly widespread problem of leaking sunroofs has always been at the back of my mind and with hindsight I probably would have saved the (considerable) cost and not specced it. Rather worried at that figure of £3500 for a replacement. My car is coming up for 8 years old with 60,000 miles on the clock so if it develops a leak and "the fix" doesn't work my options seem to be transparent tape across the roof (or perhaps generous amounts of that nice silver stuff printed with "Skoda - Simply Clever. Unfortunately not Waterproof) or to scrap it. Let's just hope it doesn't come to that.

I also have the heated windscreen. Being on the South Coast and gratefully retired I don't actually use mine very much and now wish I hadn't specced it - along with the park assist which I've barely used once the novelty wore off. I don't like being able to see the heating element under certain lighting conditions and - and this could be me being paranoid - I seem to have a lot more chips in the windscreen than I've ever had with other cars (and that's after a replacement screen about four years ago, so not even the original screen and nearly eight years driving). This could of course simply be the shape of the Yeti and the angle of the screen - perhaps a more raked screen is less susceptible to anything thrown up from the road. I'd be interested to hear what others have experienced, particularly those members who have has Yetis both with and without the heated windscreen. Sorry, I seem to be hijacking the OP's thread!

I may be wrong but I think the need to accept or modify cookies is a legal requirement that came in a couple of years ago. Until then companies just downloaded them to your computer etc. and you were never the wiser. Now we are told about them and worry. Such is progress. But on a related subject the one that gets me hot under the collar is where simply to find out the price of something a company expects you to register, fill in name, address, email etc., stopping short only of sacrificing your first born (all presumably to enable them to send you lots of unwanted advertising in the future) before telling you either the item is out of stock or is wildly over-priced. My attitude is if you make it this difficult for a potential customer at the enquiry stage what will you be like if, having bought it, it goes wrong and I have to deal with you. I then look elsewhere. And back to the thread........

Depending on how long you have had you PIR lights this might be a good option. I've just this week put up a new PIR security light to cover a dark area in the garden behind my garage. (It's only taken me 35 years to get round to it). Deliberated for ages on which solar power one to buy before - doh, I've got power in the garage the other side of a 4" brick wall right where I wanted the light! I bought a NightSearcher Fast Star from the local hardware shop for about £20. It's 10W LED, gives 800 lumens, guaranteed three years and is ideal for what I wanted easily covering the whole area (around 4m*4m) with a clear but soft light more than sufficient to see anything going on and to stop me walking into things on the way to the compost bins but without it looking like a prison. The range includes lights in higher wattages if needed. I mention this modest DIY accomplishment only because I was amazed at how these small LED lights have come on in just a few years. (Tip: If you decide to buy the one I bought the sensitivity, time and dusk/dawn adjustments are in a panel on the back behind four screws, presumably to keep everything watertight. It will be easier to make any adjustments before you mount the light; I adjusted the dusk to dawn to minimum and the time to it's maximum of 5 minutes as with the default settings the light came on pretty much throughout the day and night but only stayed on a few seconds each time.

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I'd hoped that with the advice you received from others your problem would now be sorted. Have you definitely eliminated a dodgy plug lead? You say you have changed the spark plugs. Many years ago my now retired mechanic told me about a customer who was going grey (and into bankruptcy) trying to chase down a fault and had worked his way through the obvious and obscure options replacing parts as he went. In desperation he took it to Ron who started by checking the spark plugs the owner had fitted as part of a routine service. One was faulty. Apparently it was known in the trade that there would be small number of new but below-quality plugs in circulation all the time so garages routinely would test them as soon as they came out of the packaging. Problem solved. This probably isn't the root of your problems but if you have a friendly garage might be worth asking if they could test them for you.