FinerDetails

well done mate, the 5 looks well

the hard wax soft wax thing is something I do to certain cars. Firstly add the collinite, either 476s or 915. then use a soft wax over this, and just re-layer the soft wax every couple of months. Works very well and performs good too

I can also travel if you wish.

yes they most definately have gone Marrwood took lots and lots of pics too. The shots of the rear shoulders and bonnet are where halograms were....

let me start with post with two links: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/new-octavia/marwoods-paintwork-problems-disaster/82742/ Detailing World Didn't take too many befores as the links contain enough. Washing and Cleaning Preparation The first task for me is to start to clean, and prepare the car for the Detailing work. As always, I begin by washing the wheels. I washed the wheels first to ensure that any splashes or dirt which may spray onto the bodywork and paintwork can be cleaned away afterwards. First I rinsed the wheels and wheel arches using a pressure washer. Next I used Pinnnacle Wheel Gel to clean the wheels, before spraying the wheels and wheels arches with snowfoam in order to ensure they rinse to a streak free finish. With the wheels clean, I now started the process of cleaning the paintwork and upper sections of the vehicle. The next task is to pre-soak the upper section with snowfoam. The aim of this is to loosen any surface dirt and dust, before using the pressure washer to rinse the vehicle. This first stage of the upper vehicle wash can in some cases clean the car to almost 98% without any contact. I then applied a second snowfoam layer to the car, and with a lambs wool washmitt and the Pinnacle Bucket with grit guard and dolly he works he way from top to bottom, around the car gently cleaning the upper car panels. All areas likely to carry the greatest amount of dirt and contamination will be cleaned last. This way the car will have the cleanest water, and least likelihood of any surface contamination becoming trapped and/or in contact with the paintwork again. Once the vehicle has been thoroughly cleaned, I then used the pressure washer to rinse the snow foam away. I used a Cobra Guzzler Drying towel to pat, and drag the water from the car. The next two tasks of the detail are the final two of the washing and preparation, Firstly I applied a specialised automotive low tack masking tape to all plastics, rubbers and any areas which require protection from the machine polishing stage. Once fully protected I then used a Digital Paint Depth gauge to check the paintwork on the vehicle, and records all readings on a Hand written Detail Report which will be presented with at the end of the Detail to the owner. Paint correction The first task for me is to establish the level of abrasion required to correct the paintwork to a safe and acceptable level. I always work with safety as the main directive. I will

just 7 little words from me: light at the end of the tunnel Not saying anything more, I'll let the photos do the talking very soon.

Paul I have your email, and shall call your this evening when I have time to discuss. I've also looked through the pics you last captured of the car. Its great to see you now have defects on panels that did not require any work when I visited you last week. I am utterly shocked and totally lost for words at the overwhelming lack of quality you have had to endure. Speak later today.

good to see the progress you've been able to make, and at lkast the nightmare you have been travelling through appears to be coming to an end! Start to enjoy the car now!

When I said better, it was part of the durabilty sentence, and I was referring to better durabilty than DC3. My example given, being a paste wax has improved durability over the DC3. I agree that appearance is difficult IF the preparation is correct - but as a professional full time Detailer I know the difference, and so do my customers.

to test you need contrast. Either at night, orin a garage dark area, then shine a bright light on the paint, look around the light for any defects.

not wanting to contradict here, merely open discussions. NXT contains cleansers, so using as the LSP will remove anything layered before it. DC3 isnt very durable at all, and hazing has been found by its use. If I were using separate products, for the same money far better waxes are readily available, use Natty's, or natty's blue for example.

for silver cars a wax almost a waste of time, yes there are waxes that will look good, but you are into spending serious money. A sealant is the way to go. Any acrylic sealant will last and look good for some time. The Klasse Twins are idea on silver cars, very crisp clear results, and great durability.

Hi Neil if you are working by hand you need a paint cleanser/cleaner to prep the surface ready for the wax. Something like Megs Deep Crystal Stage one will work fine. Apply one section at a time, work in straight lines, do not allow to dry and wipe off, do whole car, then apply wax as per instructions on said wax container. Hope this helps. Iain

thanks for your comments T, cars do look top dollar. Oh, BTW, the motorhome was 22 years old lol. Thansk Gents Iain

try wiping down with QD at the end to remove any residue

Stage one is a chemical paint cleaner. It will clean the paint of any deep ground in dirt. Use panel at a time, do not let it dry/haze, and use in thin applications. Stage 2 is a glaze really, not a polish. Use as per stage 1. It contains fillers so will help to maks any swirls, but thats not one of its best qualities. Stage 3, the wax. Apply this so thin you can hardly see it. It is a real pain to use, not a good wax IMHO. Its very low on durability, and can be streaky. I'd be more inclined to top with AG gloss enhencer (sealant) and get far better durabilty. (thinking about what Halfruads sell )... have fun. Iain

go to Aldi, buy some all prupose cleaner, dilute 3 to 1, spray on, wipe off, rinse clean, then a light spray with a tyre cleaner, job done. As a tip cover any electrics with nappy bags (they have tie handles)

I use baby wipes on mine, works very well, leaving a clean surface without residue, tack or grease. Nice matt finish

as best I can, why have a clean car and live, eat and sleep in a dump

received, replied look forward to it

My car nov 04 Fabia vrS black magic v.v. lite swirls. From new- 2buckets, mags GC weekly, GC wax monthly. Mileage-6300 Next week i want to give the furby a proper clean my problem is the more i look into what i need the more confused i get was going to claybar, polish, wax start of brain damage- 1- Do i need to claybar & or use paint cleaner ? ie mags paint cleaner step1 clay removes surface contamination, paint cleaner can remove those below. 2- Whats the difference between polish & glaze for the swirls ? a polish is used to correct defects, a glaze is used to add oils to the paint, and in some case mask and fill the defects which cannot be removed 3- Sealers after polishing do ineed to seal & wax or just wax ? sealants give the wet silk look, waxes the deep warm reflections. Use a sealant, and follow with a wax to get both wet, deep and durable finish I have read zillions of how to's :confused: you guys have done it all before on SKODA paint so any help would be gratefully appreciated. All i want is to get the BEST out of the paint. VAG paint is very hard, so patience, and lots of it Hope this helps get you started at least. What products do you have, including applicators etc? I can help suggest some/fill the gaps as best as possible. regards Iain

warm soapy water first to help, soften and loosen the crushed baked carcus too

Wash car, 2 bucket method, dry with MF cloth. Next - claying.. 1) I use a quarter of a meg's clay bar i got from helfrauds. 2) Warm in 750W microwave for 10 secs (or dump in warm water for abit), and mould to roughly 4 fingers width - it shouldn't be really thin. 3) Apply lube/spray to 2 ft section of car. (bonnet or roof is nice place to test your skills, because clay won't fall on the floor...). 4) Place clay on car, and fingers onto the clay to secure/hold it. 5) Now IN STRAIGHT LINES, move fingers/clay across the lube'd section. 6) You will feel the clay catching now and again as it picks up crud in each clay pass across the lube'd section. 7) If the clay sticks (ie you'll know when it sticks... it's similar to when you move the clay off the lube'd section onto dry paint)... if the clay sticks, spray the section with lube, always keep the working area lube'd. 8) PERIODICALLY, say, when you arm is tired, or clay is too thin... pick up the clay (DO NOT DROP !!!!) and look at the crud, re-mould / fold the clay to get a nice clean section of clay, and repeat (4) onwards. (clay becomes thin, becuase the mild pressure spreads to clay out towards edges or fingers, so you need to re-mould/shape for a better grip/hold). When that section does not catch any more, move onto new section and repeat (3) onwards. Points to note:- a) If you drop the clay, cry, cos it's ruined (will contain nice grit from the floor, which will scratch the car), grab another quarter of clay, and be more careful. It's not about huge amounts of pressure when claying, just enough not to let it fly off when you're passing the clay across the lube'd section. c) Stubborn bits, like near the door sills, that might have tar marks, just lube and keep claying, it'll come out, or increase pressure ever-so-slightly... (you could use tar remover, i have, but Iain might think it's wrong). d) When re-moulding - a great tip that Iain/Andy pointed out, re-mould over the bucket of warm water. That way, it won't fall on the floor, becuase you hand's are covered in lube, and it might slip. e) Use microfiber to mop up the lube after, and feel the difference. f) You can't use too much lube (no dodgy comments please). g) The first time a car is clayed, it normally takes longer, since it's full of 'crud'. h) Always easier in the shade, since the lube won't dry up. Iain uses 10% car wash solution, so the car's completely soaked, so little chance of it drying up. I only hand a squirty bottle, so claying in one hand, and squirty action in other... i) Keep clay in a sandwich bag, in an air tight box after use, and do not freeze... (all in instructions....). I moisen the clay with lube before I close the lid to stop it drying out.... just in case. j) You can clay your windscreen if it has tree-sap stains on it, use the same methods.

say what! How bad is it? got any pics?

he's got a BMW 330 D M-Sport and a Renaults Grand Scenic.....