TheWanderer

TBQH I wouldn't use the unlock on approach system, it's a security risk. I don't often use keyless either, preferring to use the fob buttons instead.

I believe that it's a combination of both

Apparently in the latest version of Waze it can appear on the virtual cockpit display if there's an option to display 3rd party apps.

I'm only paying for the phone app at the moment. Not doing the Infotainment thing for a month as I can't afford to due to a speight of £50-150 bills, it's not vital as I have Waze & Google maps to hand and I'm not doing any long distance journeys where I don't know where I'm going.

IIRC the rear wiper fuse has been mentioned before, as has a couple of others on switched circuits.

It drives me nuts that I can't get rid of London radio stations from the memory. Yes logos have also disappeared too.

I know that a Nextbase GW622 works, it's what I have. The only issue being that it's a bit of a pain as the mount has a power input that's USB Micro B & the mirror is USB C so you'd need a small adapter which is a couple of quid on Temu, or you may be able to find a USB C to Micro B cable

I just did a check on MIB3 Evo and it's a full infotainment system. I never use any of it other than radio & clima control, it's just too much faffing around to get things done.

It should come with it.

Use an extension lead at £7 from the bay it's not going to break the bank. It's what I've had to do and it's annoying but it solves the problem.

I'd be looking at the ECU, Infotainment system firmware, F533 & wiring harnesses, plus having the windscreen camera alignment checked as well, then any suspension/levelling sensors

My advice extends to whenever you're buying a secondhand car & in particular an "insurance write off" to get it professionally examined by an engineer from the AA or RAC and get a full written report from them before you even consider the vehicle. I hope you can get this resolved & hope you can get all of the problems resolved to your satisfaction, but you may well have got your fingers burnt.

I wouldn't have thought so because I had low battery when my steering wheel (stoplock) knocked the parking lights on overnight & whilst I got battery level low + another warning it wasn't any of the aforementioned ones.

You might need the front camera recalibrating for front assist, but I had a whole list of stuff go haywire when the dealer replaced a module, I think you might need a new F533 module which seems to be one of the culprits. I would take it to an independent and get them to run a diagnostic cycle, they're often cheaper than a main dealer. However I believe a new F533 module is somewhere in the region of £600 to replace & program, the modifications my not help the matter either because I believe that the module is put on a computer and programmed by the Skoda servers to what the cars original specifications were. TBQH you could be throwing your money away and I don't know what you paid for it, but in the short term you could pay not far off of what you paid for it, by the time you have all of the parts, labour, VAT added to the overall cost. You may want to investigate what your legal rights are as a buyer, but it being an insurance write off you may find that "Caveat Emptor" applies.

Simple solution Ebay £6.99 for a 3.6m cable.

I've got Heko wind deflectors on my RS they were relatively cheap and you can often find them on eBay for about £35. Are they any good? I find that they don't stop rain drips but when it's raining and I want fresh air I can have it without getting wet. Roof bars I don't have as I have a hatchback.

Always found that Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 5's tyres very good for grip, in the wet & cold, pretty good for road noise too. Not cheap but good and if you use some of the online retailers you can get some good deals and if you use a cashback site (TopCashBack or Quidco) you get a nice chunk of change back.

Might just be the parking brake and pin dropping in.

Not interested.

You better get used to LED headlights and the automatic functionality of them, with the evolution of EVs you're going to find them increasingly common. That functionality includes AHO, automatic leveling and other functionality checks. They (LEDs) are pretty much standard fitment to all EVs due to the low power draw (compared to HID, Halogen or traditional filament bulbs) due to their light weight and zero maintenance as well as improved range and road visibility. They don't bother me in the slightest and these headlights are a bit stronger than what I used to have to put up with at work and there I was in charge of things that make your 44t lorry look like a dinky toy in fact anywhere between 140/280 or 173 & 520 imperial tons and do anywhere between 15 & 100mph in ZERO visibility with a set of brilliant headlights that made it like a wall of exceptionally white bright light. Just look slightly away from them not difficult it's not difficult, my headlights are set to auto, they've been checked for alignment and are correctly set. If people think my lights are high I give them a demonstration of what high beam is actually like, it's grockles from town that have the most difficulty with them and they're the ones who regularly forget to switch them on or forget to drop them to dipped beam.

High beam is a nice touch where it takes care of itself. It's on my RS and I just activate it before I move away and leave it. I still get the little wimps flash me because of my lights, even though they're auto and they dip themselves. Ultimately it depends on how much night/early morning driving you do will more or less dictate whether you're going to find it VFM. I used to be a train driver before retirement and I used to drive mostly either early mornings (0300-0500) or late shifts (1200-0200) so anything after 1600 was dusk or dark in the autumn/winter, so it was useful. Now I'm retired I don't do much night time driving, so its value has somewhat diminished, but it's still a very good thing to have as I don't have to constantly dip or raise my lights at night or twilight/dusk.

I think you can make the jump from your current revision, but it may well be better to do it incrementally, first to 1941, 1969 then 1985, just to make sure that there's no unexpected glitches.

You buy it and it puts an electronic licence on the car, just check it does what you want it to do before purchasing.

When you get home install Skoda Connect app on your phone or visit https://www.skoda-connect.com/ on your tablet,PC,Mac and set up an account and you may be able to buy High Beam Assist amongst other things in the shop.

I've not had any issues whatsoever with it bar 2 occasions when a software update by the dealer when awry, and the other was early on and it resolved itself. Sat Nav updates have always been timely and trouble free.