TheWanderer

I would have done it incrementally, 1896, 1941, 1969, 1985, it would have taken longer but it would be less likely to throw up random/spurious faults like several people have experienced.

This to me says that you should apply the old adage. "If it ain't broke, don't fix". I've got it in the car on a USB stick, but am I going to apply it? NO. For the simple reason my infotainment system is working perfectly well and I've had enough of the wretched thing going screwy over the last few months.

Best batteries to use are Duracell IMHO, they seem to have the edge on any others out there.

You're asking in the wrong place, this thread is for Octavia Mk4 owners.

That's one you're probably going to have to get a dealer to do.

I think that the system will download the logos, but they're downloadable from various sources including the Skoda Update Portal.

You may find that you'd be replacing them quite regularly.

If you're not going for the RS then I would suggest that you go for the 1.5 petrol because it gives you just that little bit more, I've noted that there have been quite a few posts regarding the hybrid with battery problems being the main bugbear. I don't seem to recall that many adverse posts regarding the 1.5 engined cars and they've generally been very favourable.

I've not done it yet and I'm increasingly inclined not to, my system is working fine using 1969, so am applying the rule if it ain't broke don't fix.

I had 5 oil sensors replaced on my last RS (Mk3), I don't know what the hell was wrong with the damned thing, also the infotainment system & cockpit went blank, and a whole host of very irritating & irrational faults kept popping up on a regular basis. In the end the "jury rigged" the wiring harnesses to stop the faults, but I was quite glad to get rid of it in the end. This one has had some odd faults, like parking distance and others which have come & gone with software updates. But I think this one will be dispatched early next year for something that doesn't have as much tech on it.

It shouldn't make any difference. If it works well then the old adage "If it ain't broke, don't fix" applies.

Basically yet another reason NOT to get a hybrid or electric car then.

Just out of curiosity, and this is going to sound a bit odd but would putting the car under a "blanket"/cover to reduce the cold actually help it?

No, just clunking under the car. I didn't It was like a long & flat and shiny piece of metal about 6ft long I just saw it flying out from the wheel of the lorry at the last second. No damage to the rims as far as I can see or tyres. No damage to the front spoiler, front wing, headlights they work perfectly as when I select the automatic headlight you can see them adjust themselves as cars approach or disappear from the sensor/cameras view. The car handles fine, no significant change to the handling of it, it's not as sharp as normal, but if there's a damper fault or damaged then I would expect that. Yes you are correct in that I have DCC.

No other faults are present showing on the infotainment system. I don't have OBD11 to scan it properly. There are NO RED fault lights showing. I'm hopeful that the dashcam has picked it up, although the last couple of times the card has been corrupted when it came to downloading.

Hi. This afternoon had a near miss with the grimreaper when a length of steel came off the back of a lorry, unfortunately I wasn't able to avoid without causing a collision with either a bank or another vehicle going the other way. So it went under the nearside front wheel and the next thing the car flags up Damper error & Cornering light error, neither can be cleared by "keying off & on" again. Any ideas of what it this length of steel may have done, no bodywork damage, no damage to the headlights or foglights or wheels/tyres either, it left quite shaken but OK to continue. The lorry driver just carried on going blissfully unaware of what happened behind him. Any idea what the sort of bill I'm likely to get out of it. I can't afford another insurance claim after that debacle last year, so I'll have to pay for it myself.

My Octy mechanically has been spot on, it has done just under 10k miles now. The only thing that's let it down is the software/firmware.

There's no retrograde step available as far as I know due to software security policies. Once you go forward you can't go backwards. I don't really understand what you mean when you say "wireless Android Auto keeps disconnecting from the car in the places it didn't before", are you getting what I experience with my car where I know my AA disconnects & reconnects at certain locations on the A29 in West Sussex if it's setup?

Try changing the fob batteries first, then reintroduce them to the car as if you were setting it up for the first time.

I'd seek advice before doing such a large jump. It might need to be done in two or three stages & may need a hardware change, so check before doing anything.

You can buy USB-C to C but you may need to buy a small adapter like I did for my Nextbase 622GW, it cost about 65p or so on Temu or AliExpress, I just bought them with a load of bits. Why oh why they don't standardise the connections to USB-C I don't know. But it works perfectly of the mirror usb socket.

That's what I did with the update to 1941, left the car running and all went well.

A bit of security advice, be VERY wary about using ANY websites or links which have anything to do with Russia. Unless you have beefy security and a VPN in the current climate it could expose you & your machine to something nasty.

But do use decent screenwash, you can use a mild antibacterial thing like some white vinegar in the solution. I've used Halfords premixed for years and Prestone screen wash which you can get in larger Tescos and Costco.

Thanks for uploading that. Most appreciated.