D.FYLAKTOS

https://www.sprintfilter.net/automotive/products/skoda/1.3-mpi/15121

The spark plugs will be changed today, the lambda sensor https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/503246-confusion-with-bosch-lambda-sensors/ will take some days to come, meanwhile i will monitor the fuel consumption with the original spark plug.

I just saw (via the above link) that NTK i from NGK group. This one is Meat & Doria (Hoffer are from the same factor i think) which the front part looks the same to the original lambda sensor, has any one experience from this brand?

As i see it now in the morning light says NTK: JAPAN 9E29 I don't know what NTK means.

Gas station pump tests: 1) 99 Km distance, 13,23 ltr/ 100 Km or 21,35 mpg (city traffic) 2) 153 Km distance, 13,33 ltr/ 100 Km or 21,19 mpg (city traffic) 3) 248 Km distance, 12,9 ltr / 100 Km or 21,89 mpg (city traffic plus some km in boulevard and few round on a small mountain route) 4) 110,3 Km distance, 11,87 ltr / 100 Km or 23,79 mpg (city traffic plus a small trip in the highway) 5) 140,6 Km distance, 9,97 ltr/ 100 Km or 28,33 mpg (mixed routes) As the weather gets warmer (with the Iridium spark plugs) the cold starts getting Worst and the fuel consumption is gettin Worst so here is the proof. 6) 100,5 Km distance, 12,7 ltr / 100 km or 22,24 mpg (city traffic) Looks that hot weather-city traffic and iridium don't match in my Felicia and since is the second ''hard lesson'' with iridium spark plugs i don't even want to hear about them in the future. Should i give up the fight? NO WAY! I will replace them with new factory Champion platinum plus i will try to find a lambda sensor which is similar to the factory one because the old is a little bit rusty and has the cables cutted and i don't want to weld them.

While searching for a lambda sensor for my Felicia (1300cc, year 2000 model, 68PS AMH) https://nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/etka/skoda/fel/101/906000/ in the list are the 6U0906265 B, 6U0906265 C, 6U0906265 E. As for BOSCH take a look 2 of them in a store: https://www.todos.gr/bosch-aisthitiras-lamda-0258003666 https://www.todos.gr/bosch-aisthitiras-lamda-0258003745 the weird is that at the top says it's for 68PS model but at the bottom says 54 PS for both of them! My factory lambda sensor has the VW Audi symbol, says 6U0906265 E and below NF (i am not sure for the F because i am not at home now) and the word JAPAN and of course the front part is not like the BOSCH sensors. So let's say i want to replace it with a BOSCH is there a model to choose? Or should i look for another brand?

I have OBD plain or OBD1 not OBD2 so i can not connect smartphone with those fancy real-time applications. I have tested many times with OBD11 a scan tool that works with smartphone and my OBD1 port but no errors at all. Since i don't know anything abut ECU i wonder if there is a ''chip'' inside which controls the cold start only and has nothing to do with performance and relative matters.

It is supposed that the hotter spark plugs are for car engines that moving in city, in traffic, low speeds, etc. (they are not for sporty driving at high rpm). Now that the weather is getting warmer every day i see more increased consumption, today i had reached 11.3 l / 100 km which are 24.99 mpg far worst that winter days. I can not accept that those 3 days with high 'C temperature to have worst cold starts than days with low 'C temperatures-cold-rain etc.

The weather gets warmer, no cold or rain but the 1st cold start is getting worse and the fuel consumprion according to TC-6 is getting worst too. So we have voodoo magic? the hotter spark plugs are not working in my engine at summer weather? In Friday i will make a refuelling and i will make comparison with previous ones.

I just collect informations. I am on a test of "city traffic only" with "start & wait" to see the fuel consumption. I have reasons that i mention the electricity bill, due to the "ecological spirit" of our PM we pay the most expensive MwH from rhe whole Europe, the latest bill comes 300% more than previous! People lost all their savings, Cafe-restaurants,stores, small factories etc closed and the poor family men-elders are desperate. Plus we still have Covid resyrictions and the gasoline price is more than 2 euro per litre. These aren't funny.

When the electricity bill comes and IF i don't get a heart attack. On the other hand, the company suggests the P121S-WP for me but: should i keep the factory flap mechanism or not? since i have an ECU-chip and custom exhaust this would do or i need another model?

Scroll down and look to the left, it's the video about the girl and the icy car. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N8YW1YQ?ref=vse_pfo_vwdp A relative conversation from Bob is the Oil Guy: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/dei-heater-hotter.192164/ ''Your warm up time observation makes perfect sense based on the physics: fill the system with something that lowers the specific heat, the same waste heat causes a greater increase in temp....''

I just mention it for informational purposes only, in a promotional video for this product shows a car covered with ice which a girl try to start in the morning etc wich has nothing to do with Greece and my Felicia.

https://www.amazon.com/Design-Engineering-040206-Performance-Accelerate/dp/B001HYOO8W I have seen it some years ago but drivers mustn't buy it often because there are not relative videos with tests etc.

A guy few days ago suggest me the Simoni gauge filter https://www.amazon.co.uk/SIMONI-RACING-SR150-Air-Filter/dp/B06XTP394F as an alternative to K&N and BMC, betetr price etc but no matter what articles like this say https://www.carthrottle.com/post/what-are-cotton-air-filters-and-are-they-worth-it/ i don't want to risk it again, enough problems i had in the past.

No problem so far with iridium. A year? I thought that ECU will be adapted faster.

I am afraid to ''push things more'' because the summer is coming and we have here high temperatures, let's see those NGK 6 what can do in hot sunny days, in winter were Ok but...

To be honest i was expecting ''more'' from the iridium spark plugs since they are at least one number ''hotter'' than the factory. I thought that the fuel consumption in City traffic could be a little better than now but let's wait more time. We all are ordinary common mortals and vulnerable. Soon or latter any ''wise guy'' will face a problem and will start asking desperately a solution and yes maybe is a mechanic and can solve almost anything but in other aspects of life it would be just a simple member (in another forum with different nick name) asking with agony for help and that moment the ''attitude'' with flame posts that had will vanished in a blink of the eye.

Gas station pump test No5: 140,6 Km distance, 9,97 ltr/ 100 Km or 28,33 mpg (mixed routes) so every time i am getting better although i haven't reach yet exactly my old standards in City traffic. There were too many wrong things those 2,5 years (wrong valve gap, not good NGK spark plugs, faulty TC-6 sensor, dirty air intake manifold, damaged thermostat sensor cables, faulty gauge air filter, ECU-chip needed an update, defective coolant) plus some additions (iridium spark plugs, new MAP, new Lambda, new air box and air filter type) so i have lost the account. Today i have found another mistake, i must make a small correction (percent % scale) to the TC-6 Flow Meter so the Gas pump quantity to match exactly to the Total consumption on the TC-6 screen but this it's not affects the consume of the fuel, is for informational purpose. The weather would be steady the next few weeks, i will apply the ''crank & wait" technique for some days and i will record the results in the TC-6 and i hope then to close the whole matter because i know that i have cause you some tiredness.

Cars, tractor, mini-van, armoured vehicles, small and medium size motorcycles all with carburetors and manual chokes, yeah good old times. When the ''injection-ECU'' era started still had the habit to wait a little bit (not as before of course), never liked the ''crank & go'' style and i have done it only in extreme cases where i was in a big hurry but deep inside me i hated this. Today i done a small trip about 80Km distance, 30% highway and the rest mountain route with curbs (medium rpm) and light traffic till i return back home, the fuel consumption for this trip was 5,60 ltr/100 Km or or 50,44 mpg. Together with the kilometres that i had before (all of them home-work only) the total fuel consumption from the last refuelling is 8,61 ltr/100 Km or 32,80 mpg which makes me extremely happy! Here is a photo of average fuel consumption few kilometres before i arrived home.

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/mpbs/16413874 80 sha, in the Compatibility the Honda-MG-Rover are every day use models

Yesterday although the weather was better and the traffic was very light the fuel consumption was 10,91 ltr or 30,82 mpg so the ''crank & go'' does not work for my car. I don't like driving a cold car with 1100 rpm, i don't like the behaviour nor the sound of the motor and i will never do this again. I always waiting at least 30-60 seconds (depending on the outside temperature) before i start, this is my style for almost 40 years of driving and i don't want to change it no matter if a car manual suggest it. I test it (against my will) and never worked even before the TC-6 era, the ''crank and go" was always for me a hated way of starting a driving route. Tomorrow i will make a short trip to the highway (to exceed the 100Km on the odometer) later a refuelling to measure the fuel consumption and from Monday morning back to the ''crank & wait" technique.

No way, that was only for time testing. I never liked the "crank & go" habit. Today the fuel consumption rised to 10,99 ltr or 25.70 mpg, i will do another test but i am sure will be like this and End of Story with that.

Same spot on the same floor of the same garage parking, same hour, same route, same calm style of driving till the first traffic light. Keep in mind that i have a disadvantage, the exhaust manifold wrapping. https://donotdpfdelete.green/exhaust-wrap-pros-and-cons/#2-engine-takes-time-to-warm this is a saviour on summer temperatures but not at cold start in winter that's why i don't think that the ''crank & go" will work for me better than ''crank & wait 1 minute" but nevertheless i will make another 2 tests.

Today's "crank & go" fuel consumption results: 10,80 ltr or 26,16 mpg and 10,82 ltr or 26,11 mpg. I will make another two tests but i am not optimistic.