D.FYLAKTOS

We have that metal pipe also, i don't touch it. An older problem, the connection on that aluminium sensor got loose and the whole engine bay get full of hot coolant. That day was a nightmare.

Happened to me with an alternator regulator refurbish work, didn't last more than few days. If you have the knowledge and the tools then Go for it!

I have seen this in the past but i thought was for the ''racing guys''. The factory sends the emissions inside the combustion chamber (via throttle) to get burn. Some drivers don't like this because makes the throttle dirty after use so they guide those emissions to a small filter. Here is mine a year ago: Another ''surprise'' was that plastic part which was attached to the filter box, one night decide to escape, hit the belt and he drove it forward and got stuck in front of the pulley, thankfully it didn't jump back or didn't get inside the pulley-belt gap otherwise i would have a tragedy.

Many years back while returning home in a small uphill i heard a ''clang'' noise like something was dropped from below my car, i turn on the left road side with alarm, stopped checked with flash light and i saw nothing. When i parked i smell something like burned oil, i opened the hood and i saw that i had no engine oil cap! My mind went to that noise few minutes back, i took my motorcycle and returned to the same spot, first pass no luck, second and thank God i found it. By chance was dropped a little bit closer to the pavement (and weird) but none of the passing cars all these minutes step on the cap to broke it, i found it almost untouchable. Since in the past one day i saw that has loose with a tendency to ''escape'' i apply some aluminium tape to make things tighter but as i show you this didn't last long. After i installed a new oil cap another day while i was parking and when i was turning the key to ''Off'' position i heard a sound from the engine bay, i raise the hood and what i saw? The small filter for emissions decide to left the hose for Freedom but dropped on the pulley, few seconds more with the car running and i could have a disaster. PS: The photos are not good because was night and i had an old cellphone.

Cheap (chinese made) materials maybe?

After waiting so long the item never arrived so i had to order a new one from elsewere, i am outraged. Next week will arrive and then i had to go to the repair-shop for installation.

I send them email 3 days ago, i asked them if the P121S is proper for my car (due to ECU-chip, the custom exhaust etc) or if they have to suggest me another code and if i can buy it straight from them. No answer yet, maybe they don't have time for Felicia owners or they don't want more money from new customers.

Check your pm.

I asked a help from a friend of mine, soon will have some good news.

Here is the photo from the final procedure:

Oh yes, was not in my car archive but in Google Drive, i saw it when i was searching for another member to help him for A/C and there was a mixed-up and i thought was from the photos that the mechanic send me via Viber, also the fingers are not mine nor his. Sorry.

The remains of the old (original) are visible. I was confused by these remains:

@Pete_Ex-Wino said that about that wax thermostat https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/499328-how-much-time-do-you-warm-up-your-felicia/page/18/#elControls_5637280_menu When i opened it was like this: (older photo) Why disregard them? If the car was working with hot air only plus the fuel leak these would affect the fuel consumption.

I have it but the file is 38,8MB and the system here in pm allows for 20MB only.

Update: The Cold starts are getting ''weird'' which means i had the car parked for some days and at starting took about 3:40 to come from 1100 to 800 rpm, i went to work then back home, i park it for about 15 hours and when i get it it took about a minute. 9th Gas station pump test: 107,9 Km distance, 12,970 ltr fuel which means 12,02 ltr / 100 km or 23.50 Uk mpg (city traffic plus some kilometres in boulevard) The fuel consumption get Worst than previous and this i think because: 1) i found that the lever (clapet) was stacked in closed position which means only hot was coming inside the filter box and not cool 2) i had a fuel leak which one night get worst so i smell it hard and took the proper measures but i can't calculate how much gasoline i lost drop by drop all the other days. What's next? I will fix the clapet at opened position or i remove it permanently which means from the Cold start till the end of the day the car will get only air from the factory hose from the grille, for the last days i have just close the hot air hole with heat tape and the TC-6 shows in City traffic 10,1-10,2 ltr/ 100 Km which is sort of ''Good" but let's wait till the next gas station pump test.

I found a relative photo from the process that day, the mechanic used this Automotive primer DuPont BETAPRIME™ 5504G All-in-One Primer https://www.dupont.com/content/dam/dupont/amer/us/en/transportation-industrial/public/documents/en/BP5504G_SS_EN_001-20076-OIA0419_ESGR4168_.pdf Can be found in Ebay too.

When i aksed for a used part the answer was from all the sellers the same: ''when they disassembled the cars that rubber part plus those 2 on the front doors are damaged and throwed away, nodoby keep them separate'' This is not America with big scrapyard acres where you visit them and after making many cyrcles maybe you may find something interesting and take it, which seller will cut the wires and will give you this part intact? If you bought the 5th door then OK. Don't waist time with theories, if you can not find a new one buy a front and make the patent.

You keep the front part (which goes to the 5th door) from the original, you shorten the length of the Front door grommet You keep the back end (which goes to the body of the car) and the ''neck'' and you glue it with the original. After reinforcing the glued area for example with paper adhensive tape you make a test (up and down the 5th door few times) and Voila!

No, i couldn't find the rear (neither as used) so i bought one new for front and cut it to match. We are not the only ones, this is from a Greek BMW forum, a similar problem. Yes but produces more noise and i case you broke it you know the consequences.

Here is the mechanic's fingers removing my ''work'', as you can see after some months a cut show-up so i had to go to a professional to fix it permanently. You should have a heat-gun, for 16 euro you can buy one with temperatures till 500 'C which is enough for to many works that you can do as an amateur-hobbyist etc.

This is a photo before the modification from the mechanic, i had some silicone for aquarium on trying to reinforce the waterproofing. Later some extra cables must pass so i removed the grommet and the mechanic made things much better than me (proper materials as glues for plastic,windshield glue etc).

The link ask for access. You don't pull the whole thing inside, just the lower part. A gently heating from a heat-gun would help.

It's the Front door Grommet modified. Here it is ready to use. https://www.sinatec.com/en/electrical/wiring-harness-repair-kits/skoda/favorit-forman-felicia/wiring-harness-repair-kit-tailgate-skoda-1pc/a12861?c=737 Also make a search for 6U0971840 for example: https://www.autopotreby-liska.cz/?2705,pruchodka-kabelu-5dveri-favorit-felicia

I had the same problem, i couldn't find in the local market that part even as Used so i thought that i could make a patent. I bought one from the front door which is a little bit longer and my mechanic shorten it. I know does not look like the factory but it's not easily visible by everybody. No problem with water, tested multiple times in purpose with garden hose plus many heavy rains in winter.