D.FYLAKTOS

Basically what are you trying to do? You have some sort of problem? No fancy applications and smartphone for us the Felicians.

Update: Before the trip i made a Flow Meter Correction to the TC-6 by 2 clicks +, the correction has a range from -8% till +7% trying to match the results from the Gas Station pump test to the indications of the TC-6, i took some measurements via photo and notes. I didn't pay attention in purpose to the timer for all the cold starts of this trip, i just waited few seconds and start driving the car. So here is the AVERAGE fuel consumption in two moments of that trip: In between i took a note of TOTAL fuel consumption, i had 10,6 lt for 162,3 Km distance which means 6,53 ltr/100 Km or 43.25 Uk Mpg which is very close of what the TC-6 shows. This is while i am on highway, the indication is similar although some times i saw 6,4 or 6,5 ltr when the traffic increased approaching to Athens. This is the TOTAL fuel consumption, 22,7 ltr for 349,5 Km distance which means 6,49 ltr/ 100 Km or 43.52 Uk Mpg. Keep in mind that that there were 2 persons inside, the tank was full of gasoline (when i began) plus 5 baggages which means sort of heavy combination. If i was alone with lighter load the results could be better. I am i agony of what the Gas Station pump will show in few days, if the results be so good as the above then i will be relieved after so many months of suffering and anxiety.

I made a cold start test with my father's car (Nissan 2006 model) and i saw that it needed about 3.30-4 minutes to come to the proper idle rpm level so i must complain so much. The cold starts shown an tiny improvement in the country (maybe the NGK lambda helped) but i have to wait to see in city environment what's going to happen. A similar here in Greece is ''salt and water" (which means like ''all gone and forgotten'')

First of all i had to work for some kilometres and various conditions with the combination of factory Champion spark plugs and NKG lambda sensor identical to factory one. IF (i say IF) the results are excellent then (and only then) i will give a second chance to iridium, otherwise i will give them as a gift to someone else, keep in mind that i have an old design motor (Euro II) and yes the iridium rev up better that platinum BUT the cold starts plus the city traffic fuel consumption get worst (Bosch lambda sensor).

I can make gear changes with no problem but the clang sound (plus the idea that is not buttoned 100% in the rod as it should be) makes me nervous.

The T part is unbuttoned that's why the end of the shift rod is visible in the photo. One push with a lever, it buttons and everything looks fine but after few weeks "clang" again.

No problem so far with gear changes, the only issue is the "clang" noise while moving the stick left-right in N gear.

I am on 1st May vacations, so far for 170km distance the new NGK lambda and the Champion spark plugs combination work petfect (as for higway-mountain route fuel consumption) but i have to wait some days more. Bosch lambda sensor was a big mistake, i lost money in purchase plus in waisted fuel.

The ''real world'' inside the repair shop often is different than a blueprint and many times ETKA codes make things worst, keep in mund the mess with lambda sensors B C E (with the same prefix) and what this cost me in money ant time. I suggest for some wire or a tie-wrap as a temporary solution till the new part comes and the mechanic said no, i wish i had a lift available to make some repairs by myself. The new part has been bought from ebay.Uk, all i have to do is to wait 2 weeks while hearing on parking the ''clang'' noise from the gearshift rod.

No26 is like sponge, never seen it before. No27 is present, i saw it, has dropped down in the base of the T and it's not visible in my photos. The ring and the slot inside the cavity are one, posted separetely in one e-shop photo maybe for informational purposes, here are two examples: The No28 (the T) looks like bronze but i think is alloy with steel.

The end of the rod was covered wirh grease (to be honest i don't know why) and i couldn't see more about it. The ring is one, inside the ball cavity has only one groove, no space for 2 rings.

https://www.gsfcarparts.com/za020831 Vented, 236mm (as mine) and brake disc thickness 18mm. Am i lucky? 🤓

https://id-workz.co.uk/ebc-premium-plain-front-brake-discs-d808/ https://en.bsr.se/product/brake-discs-ebc-standard-218d808 Disc: Solid Total holes: 4 Diameter: 236mm Height: 46mm Thickness (new/min): 13mm/11mm Includes discs for left and right side _______________ I am confused.

Maybe it's 13mm each plus the gap means 29mm or so that's why one mechanic said "they won't fit". Almost every shop has the same style, in EBC Greece (for discs only) they shown these:

The car was parked for some days, due to the warm weather i am using the small motorcycle to go to work. Today i made a ''bad'' morning cold start (about 4 minutes) and later a refuelling because i will make a small trip the next days and here are the results of the 7th gas station pump: 7) 70,1 Km distance, 12,38 ltr / 100 km or 22,81 mpg (city traffic) but the 45 Km were with the previous (not proper) Bocsh Lambda sensor and the rest with the new NGK. The result totally is not good but compared to the 6th test is one click better which means the ECU ''likes" the factory Champion spark plugs and the factory NGK lambda sensor and does not want other type of spark plugs and lambda. I will make an about 400 Km trip and let's hope that the ECU will ''learn'' more the factory combination and the cold starts plus fuel consumption will improved.

I suggest that to the mechanic (using galvanized wire) and said ''No'' but deep inside me i thought it was a good temporary solution till the new part comes.

The above photo is not mine, found in web and posted for informational purposes. This is mine: Those 2 O-rings are in place, the bolt is tightened, OK till this point. Look higher the semi-sphere, is unbuttoned from the end of the rod, one push and is buttoned but since the inside metal ring is worned out after few weeks is poped out again.

The first (the factory one) was worn so i ordered via Ebay the same, TOPRAN and when came i saw that NO rings was inside, i email to the seller, blah blah and nothing happened so the mechanic make a patent which lasted few years. Now i ordered a new one with a note for that ring although almost every seller has the same photo. Let's hope that i will have the proper one this time and as for the Securing cap the mechanic said has not the strength to hold the joint if the ring inside ''is done''.

Another controversial thing, some say the B help better than A on water film removing while braking, the A say no we do, the B say the A may broke on intensive use, the A say no we remove heat better than B and so on. 😁 One mechanic here said will not fit and must find calipers from another model, risky job extra cost etc.

Dear Skodians, i have Brembo drilled disks and Brembo brake pads in my Felicia and since this combination has shown signs of wear in few months i will need a new set. While searching i saw that an EBC shop: https://www.ebcbrakeshop.co.uk/info-brake-parts?range=Kit|Pad|Shoe|OE-Replacement&make=SKODA&year=2000&model=Felicia&engineSelect=1.3&engine=1.3&bhp= Suggests the EBC OE-Replacement Brake Discs D808 which are these: Direct OE replacement Diameter : 236 mm Thickness : 13 mm Total height : 46 mm 4 holes Here we refer to them as ''Vented''. I wonder do these discs fit to my stock calipers or not? There must be a modification or a patent? Is there a real benefit (for an every day driver) from this kind of discs compared to others as the drilled or the stock? The other option is the stock-look https://static1.sidovski.com/pol_pl_D808-Tarcze-hamulcowe-Premium-Gladkie-Para-EBC-Brakes-SKODA-Felicia-SKODA-COMMERCIAL-Favorit-Foreman-Felicia-Pick-Up-22297_1.jpg but i have some other options if it's ''like the stock" from Ferodo etc.

I saw that part, was present but isn't this the problem. The rod does not secure in place inside the cavity, there is a round safety inside and maybe is worn. https://imgur.com/ncQDFpB You push the T part, plugs and after few days pop-up out, the plastic clip isn't so strong so it can not hold that metal part clipped.

Yes but i don't have a lift, i live in block of flats. Another weird thing is that the code from TORPAN for this part is 110 905 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/194908191374?hash=item2d616efa8e:g:d1oAAOSwSbxiL0B6 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114477374556?mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e11050.m43.l1123&mkcid=7&ch=osgood&euid=6c9777a954494d43bcff1d03ac5e3df5&bu=43791988159&osub=-1~1&crd=20220423121336&segname=11050&sojTags=ch%3Dch%2Cbu%3Dbu%2Cosub%3Dosub%2Ccrd%3Dcrd%2Csegname%3Dsegname%2Cchnl%3Dmkcid#vi-desc-maincntr https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255430440169?hash=item3b78d734e9:g:d1oAAOSwSbxiL0B6#vi-desc-maincntr but when i tried in a parts store that i am customer with the same code https://www.trodo.com/ball-head-gearshift-linkage-topran-110-905 they say: This product not suitable with you car! Please check other product for you car on Transmission Control. What a mess! 😠

Here is the guilty-guy. The mechanic said that only a new part will solve the plug-unplug problem, can not do any kind of patent.

The 6U0711460 (No 27) must hold that ''T'' to the gear shift lever, must be broken now. Tomorrow i will go to the mechanic to lift the car although due to Easter holidays must have already arrange other customers and explain to him (via the above chart) the situation. Maybe he can do a patent since this clip i don't think i can found it in the local market in the few remaining days till my trip for 1st of May.

This is the kit that i had bought. The gear shift lever was more stabilized with this but later start to be loose in N (moving in left-right). 6U0711965 (No 26) 6U0711460 (No 27, looks like a securing clip) The mechanic just pushed something with the lever and buttoned, the point is how to make it stay in the proper position without to be unbuttoned while shifting.