D.FYLAKTOS

The car was parked for some days, due to the warm weather i am using the small motorcycle to go to work. Today i made a ''bad'' morning cold start (about 4 minutes) and later a refuelling because i will make a small trip the next days and here are the results of the 7th gas station pump: 7) 70,1 Km distance, 12,38 ltr / 100 km or 22,81 mpg (city traffic) but the 45 Km were with the previous (not proper) Bocsh Lambda sensor and the rest with the new NGK. The result totally is not good but compared to the 6th test is one click better which means the ECU ''likes" the factory Champion spark plugs and the factory NGK lambda sensor and does not want other type of spark plugs and lambda. I will make an about 400 Km trip and let's hope that the ECU will ''learn'' more the factory combination and the cold starts plus fuel consumption will improved.

I suggest that to the mechanic (using galvanized wire) and said ''No'' but deep inside me i thought it was a good temporary solution till the new part comes.

The above photo is not mine, found in web and posted for informational purposes. This is mine: Those 2 O-rings are in place, the bolt is tightened, OK till this point. Look higher the semi-sphere, is unbuttoned from the end of the rod, one push and is buttoned but since the inside metal ring is worned out after few weeks is poped out again.

The first (the factory one) was worn so i ordered via Ebay the same, TOPRAN and when came i saw that NO rings was inside, i email to the seller, blah blah and nothing happened so the mechanic make a patent which lasted few years. Now i ordered a new one with a note for that ring although almost every seller has the same photo. Let's hope that i will have the proper one this time and as for the Securing cap the mechanic said has not the strength to hold the joint if the ring inside ''is done''.

Another controversial thing, some say the B help better than A on water film removing while braking, the A say no we do, the B say the A may broke on intensive use, the A say no we remove heat better than B and so on. 😁 One mechanic here said will not fit and must find calipers from another model, risky job extra cost etc.

Dear Skodians, i have Brembo drilled disks and Brembo brake pads in my Felicia and since this combination has shown signs of wear in few months i will need a new set. While searching i saw that an EBC shop: https://www.ebcbrakeshop.co.uk/info-brake-parts?range=Kit|Pad|Shoe|OE-Replacement&make=SKODA&year=2000&model=Felicia&engineSelect=1.3&engine=1.3&bhp= Suggests the EBC OE-Replacement Brake Discs D808 which are these: Direct OE replacement Diameter : 236 mm Thickness : 13 mm Total height : 46 mm 4 holes Here we refer to them as ''Vented''. I wonder do these discs fit to my stock calipers or not? There must be a modification or a patent? Is there a real benefit (for an every day driver) from this kind of discs compared to others as the drilled or the stock? The other option is the stock-look https://static1.sidovski.com/pol_pl_D808-Tarcze-hamulcowe-Premium-Gladkie-Para-EBC-Brakes-SKODA-Felicia-SKODA-COMMERCIAL-Favorit-Foreman-Felicia-Pick-Up-22297_1.jpg but i have some other options if it's ''like the stock" from Ferodo etc.

I saw that part, was present but isn't this the problem. The rod does not secure in place inside the cavity, there is a round safety inside and maybe is worn. https://imgur.com/ncQDFpB You push the T part, plugs and after few days pop-up out, the plastic clip isn't so strong so it can not hold that metal part clipped.

Yes but i don't have a lift, i live in block of flats. Another weird thing is that the code from TORPAN for this part is 110 905 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/194908191374?hash=item2d616efa8e:g:d1oAAOSwSbxiL0B6 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114477374556?mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e11050.m43.l1123&mkcid=7&ch=osgood&euid=6c9777a954494d43bcff1d03ac5e3df5&bu=43791988159&osub=-1~1&crd=20220423121336&segname=11050&sojTags=ch%3Dch%2Cbu%3Dbu%2Cosub%3Dosub%2Ccrd%3Dcrd%2Csegname%3Dsegname%2Cchnl%3Dmkcid#vi-desc-maincntr https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255430440169?hash=item3b78d734e9:g:d1oAAOSwSbxiL0B6#vi-desc-maincntr but when i tried in a parts store that i am customer with the same code https://www.trodo.com/ball-head-gearshift-linkage-topran-110-905 they say: This product not suitable with you car! Please check other product for you car on Transmission Control. What a mess! 😠

Here is the guilty-guy. The mechanic said that only a new part will solve the plug-unplug problem, can not do any kind of patent.

The 6U0711460 (No 27) must hold that ''T'' to the gear shift lever, must be broken now. Tomorrow i will go to the mechanic to lift the car although due to Easter holidays must have already arrange other customers and explain to him (via the above chart) the situation. Maybe he can do a patent since this clip i don't think i can found it in the local market in the few remaining days till my trip for 1st of May.

This is the kit that i had bought. The gear shift lever was more stabilized with this but later start to be loose in N (moving in left-right). 6U0711965 (No 26) 6U0711460 (No 27, looks like a securing clip) The mechanic just pushed something with the lever and buttoned, the point is how to make it stay in the proper position without to be unbuttoned while shifting.

Gentlemen, i have a problem with my gear shift lever, it's too lose some times and when i am in Neutral and move it left-right makes a clang noise. I have bought the whole kit and went it to the mechanic to install it, for 1,5 year everything was fine but suddenly it get loose again. I saw when the car was on the lift for the lambda sensor that the other mechanic took a piece of iron (lever) and push it back, now it's Ok but i wonder for how long? The VW code for that part is 6U0711605A, below is the No 29. Here is the part, inside the round cavity is the problem. What must i do so the rod don't pop-up often?

I didn't knew if he had the proper thread tap and i didn't said anything watching him trying to fix the problem (in the beginning he told me that i had to go to a exhaust repair-shop) otherwise i would told him to use a small magnet for the small raspings. The first minutes when i left the repair shop i had a bad smell, must be from the spray that he used (WD-40 or something relative) which was ''burning". Before the trip i will try to make some kilometres in city traffic because i am curious if thing have changed to better although after the reset the ECU needs some time. At 2:20 what he did is wrong, first must screw the sensor with the cable ''free" and then connect the plug, see how the cable is twisted. I had a similar problem 2 times in the past with the oil drain plug, i had to use Helicoil.

I wonder, some small raspings from the thread tap which end up inside the catalyst can do any damage?

@nta16: the sloppy mechanic must be on my ignore list, that was@Pete_Ex-Wino meant, not you.

For sure. ECU reset (from the battery).

Today i changed the lambda sensor, here is the previous Bosch and as you can see has abused thread (slopy work from the other mechanic). As you can see the look has nothing to do with the NGK, ''my bad'' which cost me money in gasoline and for a new part. The new mechanic used a rethreader (thread tap) to fit the new (NGK). No errors, the car started normally but of course i had to run some Kilometres to see the difference in fuel consumption. I wonder should i make a reset or not?

Same gasket of the factory glasses? or a new one?

Yes @Papez mention about the Bosch lambda sensors that have reported with some issues but the problem was that i had already installed a Bosch. I trusted the Skoda parts store which gave me the 0258003745 although the same guy some months later suggest me the 0258003666 (both weren't the proper ones). When the next day i got in my hands the old and i saw the NTK and checked the VW specifications (C instead of E) i said to myself ''oh, you step on it".

I can not find anything on the internet about OZA457-EI1A/01. The new sensor is almost identical to the old one and this makes me extremely happy!

https://m.facebook.com/skodafavoritclub/posts/946837022003733/?refsrc=deprecated&_rdr

An opportunity suddenly show up, due to the Easter or the 1st May i found that i can arrange a small trip to the country and that means: national road and sport driving in mountain routes so what's best to test the new lambda sensor plus to make it work with the factory spark plugs for many kilometres? 400 Km in a row would be far better than the few kilometres of home->work. That's why i was under pressure, i had to find a NGK lambda sensor according to 6U0906265E specification and have it in my hands shortly. @Pete_Ex-Wino : thank you very much sir but the whole procedure plus the delay of paypal confirmation-delay from the seller to ship the item-you must go to post office--delay for the parcel to come to Greece etc very easily could get me off schedule. If i was not under pressure things would be different. @nta16 : thank you very much sir for the suggestion of the Uk store but i couldn't risk to have in my hands a different sensor than the original, that mess of 2 different codes and the lack of information from the seller make me hesitate to buy plus i had the fear that the whole procedure with Royal Mail could take more than 2 weeks. Gentlemen, from the bottom of my heart a big ''thanks", i feel much obliged to you both! As for the record: Till Monday i will have the NGK OZA457-I1 lambda sensor in my hands and i will install it to the car the next days so i would be ready for that trip, first i will measure the fuel consumption on national road-mountain route and later will come the moment of truth, the fuel consumption on city traffic. I have ''bet all of my money'' on this NGk sensor, if the combination of factory specifications lambda and spark plugs won't work as it should be them i think that for 99% i can not find the solution to my problem.

Euro II emissions have one lambda, Euro III have two. The Uk store gave me 2 codes without saying which NGK is in each code. I need to know the full name of the lambda not just a code which only applies to the store's stock. I have the E as factory from the first day 2000 till 2021, the chip was on from 2003 and no problems at all with the E lambda. My mistake was that i replace it with a C (they gave it to me from local Skoda parts store) and i think due to this i have bad cold start issues.

I wrote all the details of my car and initially the Uk shop said to buy the LP-42481 (but did not wrote me which NGK is), when asked in the second mail IF this is the NGK OZA457-I1 then said to me to buy the LC-9586 (although again did not gave any details of which NGK is this). If they don't want to give the specifications and have their own codes it's their problem and not mine. I refuse to buy a lambda sensor without to know exactly things about it because something similar happened here in Greece, last year he gave me a Bosch lamda sensors and few months later the same employee-same Skoda parts store he suggested me another Bosch (not the previous) and after research i saw that both weren't the proper for my car! The programmer was sceptical about the Bosch and suggested me to buy the original (which was NTK) so i bought today from an e-store the NGK OZA457-I1 which covers the 6U0906265E plus it had some photos to check that is the same that my car had from the factory. EAN 087295104149 Trade numbers OZA457-I1 Manufacturer Part Number 0414 If an e-store does not have pictures and does not clarify which NGK is of their own codes then he can keep the LT-4593 or the CD-6789 or the DR-9821 or the NB-2940 etc product as a precious secret same as the coca-cola receipt.

I asked the shop, the NGK OZA457-I1 is on the 6U0906265E but which is? LP-42481 or LC-9856? No answer, so what must i choose? Why the store does not clarifies which NGK has? There is anothe NGK in the market which covers the 6U0906265E is the No: 92142 (the OZA457 is No: 0414) On the other hand, i asked 2 shops from Poland even the Ngk.pl which has a e-shop and i got no answer (they are rich as it seams and don't need my money).