D.FYLAKTOS

Here is the BMC that i had for some years,maybe 15.000 km which i cleaned-oiled properly, not abuse it and trying to glue with specific glue the sides. Yesterday i decide that ''enough is enough" and removed it, i don't think that i will use again a gauze air filter after the ''lesson" from K%N and this BMC.

This apply for paper filters too, better when are lightly used than brand new. I had a K&N filter and then a BMC (plus a cleaning kit with that red oil inside) but they had the same problem, the plastic on the sides start separating from the main body, i tried to glue it but this didn't last long. Was not a matter of abuse by me but it's not a coincidence that both filters had the same drawback.

No upset, i am just searching things deeper but few minutes ago a hammer struck my forehead. Price for the Sprint Filter for my Felicia: P121S-WP 151,20 Euro (without shipping), 151,20 € for an air filter? Oh God mercy me!

This guy with Skoda does the test better and at 8:02 says something very interesting: "People are not buying filters like these for their particle retention capabilities"

Do performance air filters like BMC, K&N, Sprint let more sand and dust than OEM and is it worth it? We looked at automotive air filters and their efficiency on the Alfa Romeo Giulia and how the OEM paper filter compares to the cotton gauze style K&N or BMC filters and the single layer synthetic filter like the Sprint filter. Although hitting a filter in a hard surface isn't the best way to test the permeability the results were unexpectable. For sure in different conditions the results would be different (more scientific) but i think you will get the idea.

You are right. No oil on the surface no blocking dust etc but this is ''double-edged sword''. I will post some photos from my BMC filters that i have removed today, i am very disappointed and i don't want to use the same brand again (either the K&N).

https://issuu.com/sprintfilter/docs/air-filter-element-flow-analysis_wa_b9b4f7976f1b38 Trinity Saint David University of Wales Report about all performance air filters analysis and comparison: Sprint Filter, K&N, K&N Race, BMC air filter, BMC Race, air filter, Pipercross, MWR. Patented P08 and P08 waterproof polyester against cotton and sponge air filters

Looks very ''cheap" video but the guy at 3:29 till 3:32 says the truth. Mine as i have noticed is dry which means i had to oil it BUT i must be cautious otherwise the MAP will get dirty.

https://www.sprintfilter.net/automotive/products/skoda/1.3-mpi/15121 I was impressed by this:

But i already have installed the original Skoda flap mechanism, feeds the air box with hot air from the exhaust manifold. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/499328-how-much-time-do-you-warm-up-your-felicia/page/19/?tab=comments#comment-5638614 Sometimes i wonder if gauze filters as K&N (and BMC that i have now) don't help that process or the factory paper filter does.

So far i had 2 problems with my gear stick only and after replacing some parts is better than ever. No transmission jumps Into Neutral, all the gear can engaged, no problem with Reverse, no hard to move the shift lever feeling etc. By the way the fuel consumption all these days is 10,60 ltr or 26.64 Uk mpg, same hard city traffic conditions.

No ABS: hen you drive at straight line you simply push the pedal with force and keep your steering wheel tight but when you drive at mountain routs you can not brake efficiently with a pedal with ''rubber feeling". After the first cm (you can hear the sound from the disc brakes depending how hard are the brake pads) the pedal must get stiff, if there is a gap between those senses then you lose precious seconds and you can get out or course. A lose pedal (as i had with LPR) gives you nothing more that trouble even in a city traffic, yes 5 brands by pressing all the way down the pedal in a highway braking will give you the same brake result but we don't drive is US highways. The feeling can be different even when you change brake pads (soft-hard) so your whole braking at sport driving.

I have use that brand-type for about 50.000 km (first time for about 30.000Km and now i have the second change for 20.000 and going) so if there was a problem the "synchronize" (as they call it here in GR) would have fail so far?

Unfortunately i got no measures in cm of that but the feeling was terrible with the LPR, i wouldn't dare to drive fast in a mountain road wearing this. Even in city traffic i was very cautious for a possible fender-bender. As a percentage i could say 30% worst at least.

Is it possible to make a call or send an email to a local Uk Motul distributor and ask him about their GL-5/GL-5 gear oil in a old car as is Felicia on which the manufacturer says GL-4? @Thefeliciahacker : No i haven't see here and i don't want to use E10 https://club.autodoc.gr/magazin/benzinh-e10-epiptwseis-synepeies-kindynoi#lwptoc

The best feeling was with factory brake pump (brake master cylinder), the worst was with LPR and with Ferodo the feeling was one click lower than the stock (same type of brake pads with the 3). After replacing the factory (NOT my idea) i had lot of pedal travel with LPR (new brake fluids, no air inside the system) so with first chance i put the Ferodo, the pedal travel is better although it's not as i had with the stock in which things were more ''tight''.

"Net, eto ne Russkiy, a Ukrainskiy" (No, it is not Russian but Ukrainian). 😁

In Greece, such a thing does not seem to happen, even immediately, because, among other things, there is strong suspicion. Where is the problem; The fact that many vehicles in the country have engines that can not handle the doubling of the ethanol content, since it absorbs moisture from the atmosphere. Result, minor damage to fuel pipes, tanks, burnt head flanges, damage to metals and plastics. Especially the models with year of manufacture before 2011 are not compatible with E10. The numbers hide a hesitation in the market. Making the reduction in Greece, if we take into account the age of the cars and the non-encouraging research numbers, then the introduction of E10 gasoline in the country is a very distant scenario. https://autoagora.gr/news/data/cool-news/Poia-einai-h-Benzinh-E10-Giati-den-perpataei_210001.asp (part of the text via Google translation).

Usually in Cz forums you can find such modifications, also in Youtube have videos with such lights, a question in the comments or an email can provide you the necessary infos. I think from older Polo models you can find a solution.

E10 petrol is cleared for use in all following Škoda vehicles with petrol engines with the following exception: • Felicia 1.3 litre OHV (40kw and 50kW) engines used in Felicia models in the production years 1994 to 2001 and in car models before. A retrofit option exists for these engines to make them compatible with the use of E10 petrol – owners are advised to consult their dealer. https://www.acea.auto/files/E10_petrol_fuel-vehicle_compatibility_list-2021_update.pdf Yesterday i use Heat resistance (till 200'C or 392 'F) aluminium tape to cover half of the hose that feeds hot air the air filter box ''just in case". Yesterday i had 10.54 ltr or 26.80 Uk mpg, with current traffic condition i don't thing i will get down from this point now at winter.

I have seen those numbers for many years in a row but with old fashion way (liters of gas pump x 100 / Odometer km = fuel consumption) but the road conditions were much better and not so "restricted" as now.

My next project is to shield the air intake manifold and the side of the filter box but still is cold outside, i don't want to risk to catch a cold working in the side of the road. Yesterday except the morning cold start i had another 2 and of course the last at night, except the 1st in ALL the other had the phenomenon of high rpm standing which means that i can not do anything to help the situation, maybe is VW's interfere at electronics when the car isn't completely cold. With that ''cold start, move few blocks and park-cold start, move back home-cold start, go to work-cold start, return home" yesterday low speed moving i had fuel consumption 10.51 ltr or 26.87 Uk mpg, i don't know how but if i manage to have in normal city traffic (not hard) 9,9 ltr or 28.53 Uk mpg i would be extremely happy.

Unfortunately it's a habit for us here to make modifications to our cars/motorcycles, the stock (original) we call it ''motherish'' (mother) which means ''it's as came from the factory" (from his mother). Back those years there were no videos or internet forums so maybe we have done some mistakes maybe not.Wrapping the exhaust is a controversial thing but after 19 years i have learn to live with it, especially at summer is a ''savior" for the plastics of engine bay also reduces the temperature of the piece of floor which is beneath the pedals. Yesterday night with cold and light rain so according to this: https://www.omnicalculator.com/conversion/fueld-economy-converter i had one click better 10,42 ltr so it's 22.57 mpg (US) and 27.10 mpg (Uk)

Yesterday noon and a night photo with flash, no black sludge on the top of the plastic tank, i think i was lucky and the whole system didn't affected.

I have wrapped my exhaust manifold since 2003, few years back i replace the tape with quality titanium. Yes i think it was protecting the air intake from the heat but one of my next projects is to install a new shield (to the air intake) from embossed aluminum with tremendous 500+ 'C heat resistance. The fuel consumption for home to work today was 10,46 ltr or 22,49 mpg.