D.FYLAKTOS

I didn't knew that, they told me many times that only a ''second hand'' can be found, thank you !

Yes but this way after parking the car some days will drain your battery and especially at winter in a cold start "you are done".

Bob is the Oil Guy since 2003 https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/

Update For those who haven't bought a mirror like this here are some first impressions of mine: The mirror looks a little bit ''bluish" but you can adjust the brightness. With sunglasses things get a little bit worst so in very bright days and when i am wearing polarized sunglasses i turn the mirror off. If you want to have him on ''parking mode" you need a extra hardware kit otherwise will drain you car battery (his own won't last other than few hours). Mine does not has a memory when turned Off which means every time gets On shows the view from both cameras and i had to slide to see the rear view. The lines when the R is selected in my model are not adjustable, for me it's not a problem.I have a separate button for reverse view when it's time to park and i can open the camera any time i want. The main issue is the trembling when the car is on the idle for example traffic light, i have tested the double stripe gripe plus some adhesive tape on the back but the problem never solved 100% , it's just one click better.

In one case that i had a similar problem (the brake pedal was stuck in the low position on traffic lights) they told my that i had to buy a used one because there aren't any original or OEM parts for my Felicia. I didn't knew that brand, thanks for the information. Almost everything can be repaired but it's 100% positive that the ''hiss" comes from the drum? Alone you can do anything,at least 2 persons must be involved, you in the pedal and the other on the engine bay because the source of the noise maybe it's a hose leak (happened to my case). As for the clutch wire you should do some tests static and then few blocks around the repair shop before pay him and leave although he must have done this before deliver the car to you. It's a common question here in Greece to the mechanics: ''you have tested it?" and if he says ''No" then ''Go and do it now".

It's was some kind of "package" before the advent of Fabia. Front electric windows, A/C, power steering wheel, central console, protection stripes on doors, central lock and a simple car alarm system.

They are OK now.

Unfortunately, there is something that drivers do not count: it is the time that the engine is idling (for example traffic light, preheating, etc). It is not only the kilometers that we travel on the road, the engine works in other hours as well, so the 7500 km in the counter are essentially more operating hours thar rolling in the road. Some guys say'' i change the oils every 7500 km but they live in the country which many times means nice and easy kilometres, the 7500 km in a city means more load for the motor (plus worst cooling). Those idling waisted hours make the ''city guy'' to change the oils sooner.

Some guys use it.

The first time i thought was a coincidence but when i saw it for second time (different repair shop) i decide that every 3-4000 km one click tightening the oil filter is a precautionary measure for leaks. @mikefelicia : No need to be a genuine VW, a MANN for example can do the job perfectly. I buy sometimes not genuine Skoda parts but not "crucial" ones.

It's white colour and days VW genuine on the label? The Ebay isn't the safest way for buying, an example you order a MANN 712/43 oil filter white colour and you get a black but not made in germany (maybe spain or brasil etc). By personal experience it's wise to make an inspection to the tolerance of the oil filter after few months, sometimes needs one click more tightening.

Additional I had in the past an oil pressure gauge with custom made base on lathe machine together with the factory oil pressure switch my initial thought was to replace that switch and have that gauge in the dashboard for ''real time" informations but the mechanic said loud NO WAY! He insisted that i case that something went wrong at high rpm on national road that red light could save my car and my life and i could step aside but the needle of the gauge no. I heard his advice and done it additional with the factory switch.

Older drivers taught us that Felicia (even early Octavia models) have a tendency to overheating so we must be prepared because the ''boom'' one day will come so: Quality thermostat and sensor (not cheap ones) 1 even 2 scales lower radiator switch (from 85-90 to 80-85 even 75-80) Every 2 years coolant change after cleaning the whole system with little pressure Extra attention to the reservoir blue cap Keep the hoses soft and the clamps tight Extra gauge for coolant temperature or paying often attention to the factory on the dashboard. Sorry but the links don't work.

When a company does not admits that their product don't work properly and prevents the customer to send it back then we have a bad After Sales policy. So what's the warranty that SP-EL says that gives?

Since the level on the oil stick is OK and you have no oil leaks let it as is till the new switch arrives. 2 times that light gave me nightmares and i hate it because turning back the time i remembered that was finally were 3 times. The last one was when i was returning home from vacations, i knew that there was no problem with the oil level and the mechanic had already ordered a new one but the damned switch decide that for last time he wanted to give me multiple on-off ref light blinks. I was reviling him all the time till arrive back home.

Update Below is the answer from SP-EL about those ''pores" on the back of the sensor: " Yes, it´s normal. Because the sensors are manufactured without vacuuming, it makes this surface during the phase the black compound goes hard and the bubbles of the air are leaving it. No influence on the function of the sensor. There´s no need to send the old sensor back to us, save the shipping costs. " So the faulty sensor is my idea only, can not send it back and let's pray to God for the new sensor to last many years.

Happened to me few year ago twice: first on curbs while driving ''sport style" especially on S style which means the car was turning left-right-left abruptly but after a while stopped second while driving in straight line few minutes before i go to the mandatory technical inspection (it's every 2 years here in Greece), my eyes goggled and i said to my self ''that's it, they will cut me and send me back for inspection" but after few minutes nothing happened and i pass the test. Guess what? after few days while driving calmly the same thing happened ! I checked the oil level, for leaks, the filter etc and everything were OK, i called my mechanic and explained everything and he said to me ''bring it here to change the oil pressure switch" and after changing it 4 years now the red light never blinked while driving.

I also have the factory radiator, i don't know if it could help more to add a different one. Isn't for very old models?

You are right. I send the photos to SP-EL waiting for their answer, by the way they claim that 1st time in their life heard about a faulty sensor (as i claim that i have) Let's hope that the new one will last as it should be.

As for the record: i had a similar problem few months ago, when you buy a ''universal'' hose (made in Italy for example) pay attention to the specifications ! Many brands claim that their product is ''for hot water'' but the limit is 90'C if you search it in the factory web site so i am will strongly advise any one who want to buy a radiator hose for his car first of all to search the specifications so the hose can stand 120 'C. If he puts the 1st radiator hose after a while would be very soft and will get lose in the clamp connection. Keep also in mind that many Cz-Poland e-shops sell Vika hoses as ''Skoda part" no matter if the VAG number is correct and NO, not all the universal hoses (as they are) can copy the shape of a pre-curved hose.

Update I replaced the old sensor with a new one, the car started immediately with no problems and finally the fuel consumption started show up on the LCD screen. I feel that i had to test it few days more to be sure because the first one worked for 3 days before start giving me problems. Take a look at the back of the part of the sensor that the cable ''steals" signal from the injector and gives it to the monitor, my electrician insists that this is not normal and it's sign of fault (overheating). What's your opinion about those ''pores" ?

In the panel's gauge is one notch above 90 which means it's 91-92 'C but with another gauge (digital for example) you could measure it exactly and it could be one click less. This car should working beyond this point (as some French cars do) but not in too low temperatures. I have Mahle 80-85 a 10 points scale as 82-92 will raise the fuel consumption especially on traffic with high temperatures as we have here in Mediterranean area because the fan may never stop working (personal experience).

From VW TL774C (G11) to VW TL774D (G12) and then to TL774F (G12+) ?

Tar spray won't help?