D.FYLAKTOS

No, the front door has 1 and the rear 1, the front fender has 1.

Online catalog with PART NUMBERS and ILLUSTRATIONS (thread) https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/358204-online-catalog-with-part-numbers-and-illustrations/page/2/

No steam, may damage some soft plastics and bring moisture in contacts-cable connections. Use a tough pair of gloves (not cheap one-use nitrile) and baby wipes, in difficult spots throw some alcohol lotion 93 'C and use a long paint brush, in hard areas a degrease spray with caution, then wipe the excess. When all are clean use a cloth and a plastic-care product and apply a light coat on them. NO water in pressure via garden hose inside the engine bay !

This i had i mind, to buy a drain plug and send it to a lathe machine, then fit a neodymium magnet (cylinder). I don't trust the cheap magnetic oil drain plugs in e-stores. Some use magnets in oils filters (external plate) for this reason. Your comes out clean after oil change?

A magnetic oil drain plug would help?

No offence but previous post was 16 years old, i doubt if the member is still here in the forum to read about it. 🤔

No. Those with Yellow ring never-ever worked properly for me, i had issues with higher coolant temperatures. https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/6u0919501b-dual-temperature-sensor-germany-9741.html https://www.auto-doc.ie/vemo/2290499 Haynes gives pressure after regulator for MPI 2,5 bar. In the past i asked for a check on the Fuel Pressure Control Valve (OE Number: 047 133 035) and told me that the pressure was 2,7 bar and stable. @Papez said : Workshop manuals says around 2.5 bar. More important is, whether presure rises to around 3bar, when vacuum tube to the regulator is disconnected? I answered: Yes, 3.1 was when the vacum tube was off With the plastic cover plus the tube from the filter removed (the throttle was ''naked'') shown 2.7 ..............................

The pressure isn't 2,5 bar in the regulator? https://www.euspares.co.uk/parts/pierburg/965133 Pressure from [bar]: 0,3 Pressure [psi] from: 3,2 Pressure [psi] to: 5,5 I am confused with this one, 5,5 psi = 0,3 bar 3 bar = 43,51 psi

This? https://www.ebay.com/itm/144240337855 https://www.euspares.co.uk/parts/pierburg/965133 We need a gasket too? https://www.myparto.com/en/m4075-c261/skoda-felicia-ii-6u1-fuel-pumps https://kritosparts.gr/Part/LASTIXO-Flantza-antlia-kausimou-V102562/e162V102562

When i do the start step-by-step always work good, a last year example: cold start.mp4 still at January 2026 the same but i will have the thought in the back of my head. We are talking about the whole mechanism or just the pump motor?

Update: I just remembered another 2 times that i was in a hurry and didn't follow the proper procedure. After 5-6 hours that my Felicia was parked (low level, underground parking) i want to move it close to Exit so when i finish my shift to don't lose time to return home. Key insert, 1st scale and immediately crank, the car started the ''brough-brough" (trembling) and i turn it off with agony. Scenarios started in my head ''3 cylinder, damager spark plug, the coil, the pump or the gasoline pressure regulator" etc. I waited few seconds, fingers crossed and then did the start in two steps, thankfully everything went OK and the car started normally. Few months later i did the same mistake, the car start trembling and i turn it off, the next second i slander myself ''you @%&#* ,you already know that this does not work, don't brake the rule" ,waited few second i did the engine start step-by step and the car start ''nice and easy". So, for me now it's a rule: "No matter what, follow the protocol".

Every Summer i have the same issue: If i leave the car for 2 weeks out in the street with alarm, then can not start at 16th day in the morning, the battery hasn't drop dramatically but just enough to don't allow the ''crank".

''Wintering'' as say in North America-Canada?

If i remember correct Skoda in the owners manual says that in case that a car turn-off while it's hot and does not start immediately then turn the key to Off then 1st scale, pump the gas pedal few times, let it and then crank.

With Felicia in 1st (cold) start sometimes i forgot it and crank immediately then i always have a ''brough-brough'' rough start, at least 3 times in the past as far as i can remember (2 times was with iridium spark plugs) the car turned-off itself. I was in a hurry because other cars horning and restart very fast and yes i had the same phenomenon, the third time i raise my hand out of the window and start wave it as i sign ''something is happening" i did a 2 scale process and the car started normally, since then no matter what i turn once wait (even the car is hot) 2 seconds and then crank. Yes when the car is hot the lines are pressured with gasoline but the bad experience says to act different, maybe it's for my car only.

357 919 501 B This for 1.3 and 68HP model, don't buy a cheap one.

See in the first seconds? Waiting for the pump to stop, then i crank and after few seconds the engine is in idle.

I do this for 20+ years, the gear stick in N and the pedal pressed, reduces the initial ''load'' for the engine to start in cold. @TonyW1967 When you turn the key to the 1st as i saw twice that you don't wait for the pump to make it's work and you crank immediately, why? This is wrong especially in a cold engine.

For future viewers, as we look the engine bay and the coolant sensor pins: the first two (in front) are for Dash and the other two (in the back) are for ECU. For sure can we make the Ω test in our bench at house huh?

I wonder, what the indications could be in a Summer day with 18 'C for example? The part code is 357919754 but we measure in the pins (male) or in the other side (female, on the coolant switch) ?

For GR the O 'C measurement can be achieved.

In the center of 2 dents part of colour is missing.

A coolant sensor with debris on it or with damaged cables (both have happened to me) does not make the light bulb to turn on. A faulty sensor can make the cluster gauge to show''fake'' results for the coolant temperature and make the needle to go up-down unpredictably (also happened to me) .

I had time pressure,the car must be ready at noon to take it to go to work (2nd shift),i went to the Upholsering shop early in the morning as 1st client. Now when the time comes would be a Bondo (stucco) job.

Impressions: the ceiling is more ''robust'', the sound was reduced to minimum while travelling and the noise from the rain drops almost vanished, before the ''doung-doung'' sound was present and the whole results is that the ''tin effect'' that other cars had does not apply to mine. I am happy, i wish i have done it years ago but as we say here ''Better late than never". 😉