D.FYLAKTOS

I didn't want to install an aftermarket one because: there would be difference in colour with the original on right side plus they have told me that due to cheap ABS plastic and not proper molding may not fir proper and water could come inside the trunk so i start searching for original in good condition. 3 shops and nothing happened, i was disappointed because the cost for 2 new original fro UK would be around 120 euro with the shipping-Customs fee (not in EU any more) and i didn't want to order a used one from local market without see it first because in the photo of the e-shop looks good but in real may differs. In the 4th shop (VW group parts) told me that they have new aftermarket for 30 euro and new original Hella for 40 euro, i was surprised and i asked: How come? They answered that have them in shelf for years and offered them in a good price to get rid of them. What's the reason to pay to have one new and one used? So i bought two of them (left-right side), in front of me brought the box cut the seal-tape and show them to me. I paid and went home very happy. Here are in factory wrapping but when i went to the car to installed them i noticed some things.

One of the scourges of Greek roads are abandoned motorcycles. Some they have suffered major damage and are not being repaired, some because owners have abandoned them because they no longer want them, other they are stolen, etc. The process to be removed from the from the State takes from 3 months to 3 years. All of that time this motorcycle it pollutes the environment and also takes up parking space. You can't park your car because such an abandoned bicycle is standing there often rotting and some of them are on the sidewalk ! Some sneaky locals use them to reserve space for themselves, some with shops put them in front so that no cars are parked and the storefront is not visible, some Cafe owners put them in front of the sidewalk to make it appear that they have other motorcyclists as their customers. If you try to remove it by yourself sometimes they shout ''leave it as is, it's mine" and other lies so you have to wait for the Municipality to take it or you have to act by yourself with other ways. Few nights ago we had mud-rain here, i was returning from work it was late, i was tired and i wanted to find a place to park my car to go home. I found one but there was a huge scooter which didn't allow me to park properly, was sone of the ones that i have described you above. Came out of the car, tried to move it a bit but was heavy, i was sin a hurry the ground and my hand were slippery so the disaster came. That damned scooter rolled back, i didn't manage to catch it at once so it hit my rear left rear light (or tail light), a ''craaack'' was heard and immediately i knew that i was in trouble. Chane my day schedule, search to find another, pay money which i had for other purposes, install by myself etc. I have changed them both in the past with original Hella and i knew how to do it but in the procedure i notice 2 weird things that's why i opened this topic.

The two gauges are installed and i have changed the switches with a pair in square shape. Is this the final stage? No... 😉

After made the marks i start to drill-cut-using rasp etc. For buttons i put this style although i don't like them so much. The middle part cause me a lot of effort but i remove it. The cut may look rough and ugly but keep in mind that the gauges and the switches have a ''rim'' outside that will cover everything.

This is the ashtray in a Felicia (not mine, photo by Google) and since i don't smoke inside the car and strictly forbid the passengers to smoke (even the rear door ashtrays are sealed) i had in the past the thought to use it for other purpose. This is how it look inside when you pull it out. In the beginning i attached a parallelogram-shaped gauge (in-out temperature, voltage) and you can see how the central console was modified back then. I wasn't completely happy but those days i didn't had the money and the time to do something more but after few years i have changed the console design and modified the astray completely. I will show you the whole project step by step.

Mine also were in bad condition due to age: Air intake manifold sensor. ECU.

Vacuum hose in my 1.3 look a bit weird, it's stiff not soft. I haven't experience from aftermarket like these: https://www.llracing.eu/silicone-vacuum-hose-turboworks-pro-12mm-black-mg-rd-024 https://www.ebay.com/itm/236000175771

I have installed Goodridge and EBC parts and i have bought from UK shops plus ebay.co.uk ana amazon.co.uk many products related to car and not only. No problems at all.

If you buy a used harness you have to clean every connector and check with multimeter every single pin and check every cable if it's OK (maybe some are bent and broken,not visible from outside), use a pin extractor,replace it etc... Making your own harness there would be an assurance that in the future you will never again have problems as long the car exists.

Turning back the time: back in the beginning of the 90's there was a need for Scart but much more longer than the 2m of the local market, the Electronic guy of the company had the idea so they bought me the connectors and the cable with lot of clones inside (that was a nightmare) and i spend many days welding pin-by-pin after checking the compatibility with multimeter (beep sound so OK the No1 cable in the first connector was also the No1 in the 2nd etc), for example: I had a pin extractor and a cell pin welder and i manage to make very long Scart. In car companies the Electrician has a board on the wall or in a desk and according to diagram is embroidering (here we call it also as Sewing) the harness. Nowadays with cables with colours or even numbers on them things are much more easier.

Key Aspects of the 1.6 AEE Engine Valve System: Valve Clearance: Self-adjusting (Hydraulic lifters). Engine Design: 4-cylinder, 8-valve, Single Overhead Camshaft (SOHC). Maintenance: If tapping noise occurs, check for worn lifters, low oil pressure, or blocked oilways. If the engine is noisy, it is likely a faulty hydraulic lifter needing replacement rather than manual clearance adjustment.

You can buy a set of used ones from a donor car, check for corrosion signs and clean them. Nevertheless can not be abused since they are not a plug-unplug often item. Connectors can be found in ebay, each oart number is available in ETKA. You can buy aftermarket colour cables from a shop and you or a friend of your can do the welding job, thus you will hava an almost brand new harness. 🙂

https://www.sp-el.cz/Ostatni-elektronika-c22_0_1.htm https://www.sp-el.cz/Ostatni-elektronika-c22_0_1.htm If you want new contact housing: https://www.skoda-parts.com/catalog/felicia/spare-parts/electrical-equipment/wiring-harness-terminals-490.html?strana=3&sort=default&query= https://www.skoda-parts.com/catalog/felicia/spare-parts/electrical-equipment/wiring-harness-terminals-490.html?strana=4&sort=default&query=

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/369187-13l-engine-compression-tolerance/ "10 - 15 bar compression for injection engines" Skoda Felicia II 1.6 (75 Hp) Compression ratio 9.8:1

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/447354-felicia-16-coolant-drain-out-valve/ "Open the filler cap of the coolant expansion reservoir. Drain coolant at the bottom hose of the radiator".

So it's ''safer'' the inside the cabin-continious opened spray-air recycle ON and wait till all the content of the spray circulated method?

Oh no, so since a ''dedicated'' a/c spary can do some damage what are our options?

What do you see? it's missing from many Felicia. https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcR4O-1arEBcXIzphWIvGjNtU_uD92TcBgHwRw&s Including mine because after few years every small bumper hit will make it pop out sometimes drop down in the street, that's why many Felicias here haven't it on. The 2 clips in the bottom after few clip-unclip are prone to brake or bent. If you find a used one in the same colour and glue it you can not remove it in case you want to tow someone else, if you go to a repair-shop can stitch it from in the back with some Π style upholstery nails but also in case like above you can not remove it. As i see it and since you want to be removable 2 layers of Tesa strong self-adhesive tape in the back of the bumper is the best solution, will keep it steady till you need it one day.

You mean the No4? parallelogram cover? https://www.catcar.info/

With the a/c spray you damage it?

Except the notice from the label about metal corrosion i also found this notification from another user: ''Do not use on non-stainless steel, aluminum, silver, or chipped enamel''.

Οh my God,thank you for the notice! Even a small amount od Dettol insise the air vent (interior) can hurt something else e.g. plastics?

80 'C has the sauna. I have measured 47 'C in mine (the car was outside under the hot summer sun) and till i open both windows and start rolling the car the situation was awful.

This is not good, will take from the engine precious temperature that it needs to reach the level to work properly. The 80 'C is for Middle East, in our countries at Winter the heat will take lot of time to be ready for the cabin, the sensor will pass that info to the ECU and the ratio fuel-air would be richer.