RicardoM

@nta16 For somebody who admits has no technical knowledge, just knew once upon a time very few mechanics who performed miracles by scratching their head for a while, you have quite a bad attitude. Your only contributions seem to be 1) doing a great job trolling with thousands of messages many sections of Briskoda forum, 2) spreading your woke opinions, and 3) being a jerk although I explained to you politely how harmful is your behavior to the quality of information in this otherwise very well organized Skoda forum. I am sure the OP will understand that if he wants relevant help, about a car that, by the way, is NOT a Skoda, he has to provide accurate information, otherwise we can equally chat about what you like the most, generic rubbish in a pub, from the good ol' times when the metal sheet of the car was thicker and British mechanical engineers were greasier and more helpful. I am sorry if my pragmatic, to the point replies don't satisfy your trolling wish and your obvious appetite to stir trouble, but where I come from you have two reasonable options: either offer better technical advice than I do, or avoid making a fool out of yourself.

They are on your forehead 😅😎

In your first post you said that spark plugs on 1 and 4 are black and dry. Having black, dry soot on them is one thing, being wet and oily is another thing. So you have to decide which is which and give us consistent information. A bad valve stem seal will not boost the compression value. On the contrary. Compression values: opposed to what you said initially, they are rather low, with one cylinder (no. 4) having more than 10% difference from the other ones. What you believe to sound like "working in 3 good cylinders" at cold start, it is in fact working in 3 low compression cylinders and the 4th slightly better. The galloping sound comes from one cylinder having better compression. Of course it is hard to diagnose correctly an engine remotely, based on incorrect or insufficient information. But based on what you shared in your last post, the engine has mechanical issues.

@mikefelicia Relax Mike, you're maintaining your car very well. You can disregard the endless, useless frustrations and obsessions in this topic. "...not hearing my wife" LOL

Try these links too: https://www.ruddies-berlin.de/se175cdt.htm https://www.ruddies-berlin.de/se175cdtu.htm

4683138-saab-carburettors.pdf

Just give me the exact type of the Pierburg you have. It is stamped on its body.

Have a vacuum leak test ASAP. I hope you know how to do it.

Obviously. The OP has very different combustion in 2 cylinders. It has nothing to do with the carburetor. I know myself too a lot of stories about "smart old school wizards" who in reality are a bunch of amateurs with zero knowledge about understanding engine diagnose and the effects of "miracle" solutions. Usually the effects are higher consumption and higher pollution. Irrelevant for street garage tinkerers.

People dumped easily Pierburg carburetors because they are more sensitive to vacuum leaks. Any vacuum leak makes you wanna dump the car i a ditch and set it on fire. Sealing perfectly the underbody of the carburetor makes you love your very economical car. So, no need of any Weber carb from my part.

One more relevant question is related to the history of the fault. Since you got the car, is this the first time you checked the color of the spark plugs? Which one is true? the engine had even combustion for years, then suddenly deteriorated. the engine had uneven combustion all the time for years.

I subscribe to what @Thefeliciahackersays. This section of the forum has been poisoned by an individual who is aggressive, stubborn in his lack of knowledge, very frustrated by critical opinions, vengeful, rude, and definitely insecure. Every now and then he invents a new topic to address his doubts about unimportant things or to show off with cheap, pathetic parts he is using to "tune" his unhappy car, although he has no clue whatsoever about the financial consequences and lack of security he will have to pay from his own very poor pockets. My suggestion is to let him talk to the walls, because anyone who makes the mistake to take him seriously and reply to his ignorant calls will be attacked by a rabid rhetoric. No moderator will stop him embarrassing himself. Andreas, give him enough rope to hang himself because he has zero credibility. Although you are younger, you have a more balanced way to see technical things. Do not let yourself poisoned by an amateur in great need of a psychiatric evaluation and anger management classes.

Andreas, you're talking to the walls. Let him destroy his car piece by piece, topic by topic😐 while dreaming to a real rally car he will never have.

My Felicia has HP Sporting shock absorbers. They are designed in Czechia specifically for Felicia, they are adjustable (normal and sport in steps), and they are very reliable (90K km so far). I use them most of the time on normal mode for best handling in the city. http://www.hpsporting.cz/9._typ_mcpherson_32-22.php The best investment I have made.

Not to the extent described by the OP. Two black and two white is FAR from being a result of shape and length of the inlet tract. Now let us wait for the OP collect relevant information. The ball is in his yard. Remember that he has full access to his car, while we decide based on breadcrumbs of information.

OK then. So we are looking for a variable in the engine combustion. Since you said that the engine is mechanically fine, we have to address the fuel/air mixture in each cylinder and the spark. The carburetor delivers the same mixture to all cylinders. From your description, the mixture is rich. You will have to address the carburetor issue separately, otherwise the fuel consumption will be excessive and the engine will run like crap. So we are left with two variables: extraneous air in cylinders 2 and 3, making the mixture lean OR bad spark on cylinders 1 and 4, or both. If the spark plugs are all identical and in working condition (forget the multiple electrodes spark plugs, stick to the factory recommendation) the conclusions are: vacuum leaks in intake manifold bad distributor cap bad high voltage leads a combination of the above I like the Gunson Colortune gizmo to see what is going on combustion wise.

@hzoltaanAre you sure your car has a carburetor and not a single-point injector? The service manual for B201 on Saab 900 mentions only fuel injection. If it has a carburetor indeed, what Pierburg model ?

That is exactly how Skoda Felicia cold starts when the owner has no obsessions and nightmares about engine oils and does not all kind of stupid experiments doomed to kill the engine. The only exception is when the outside temperature is below -10°C. The engine has a deeper, rumbling noise initially, the low oil pressure indicator goes off in a second, the idle is around 1300 rpm for a minute or two then starts to purr at 800 rpm as usual. Your car works great, Andreas.

Nothing abnormal. It all depends on who starts the engine😎 Since you asked, the abnormal part in this topic can only be cured by a good psychiatrist.

Any idea what company is the manufacturer of the windscreen?

@JussiG7Any progress? Please post new photos.

It all depends on how long you want to have your car. If you rev it to the bone, you will kill the engine faster or smth. You can use alien oil engine from Mars, the engine will start to run $h|ttier and the fuel consumption will go to the roof. It is over.

Well, the map sensor intermittent is a possible cause. I guess it had something like "implausible signal'. Usually that issue gets solved by cleaning the sensor and the connector, not by replacing the sensor. Felicia has some connector corrosion when they age, especially in humid environments. So how much did you pay for the whole job?