RicardoM

Intermittent missing and cutting out are the most complex issues to diagnose. I am very curious what will the mechanics discover and if they will be able to solve it without any comeback...

All conditions are created for destroying the engine and getting a more disastrous fuel consumption. Enjoy.

That was 3 years ago. My colleagues worked in the UK for 15+ years.

Oh yes, VIKA and their Chinese $hitty rubber quality and cheap steel. That part of the gear linkage was used on cars before October 1996 according to ETKA.

Nigel, let's keep it specific. We are talking about who would steal a Skoda Classic and why. My information comes from British mechanics I was colleague with while I worked in Spain. They said that Skoda Classics and similar are not sought after for selling them as a whole or as parts, not for being vintage cars that rich people dream to own, and certainly not for showing off in the neighborhood. They are easy to break into, and easy to start. Then the thieves use them for all kind of petty felonies. Obviously not for robbing banks, unless you watched too many cheap movies or you want to chip in to feel important. One other reason the UK-ies shared with me was that young punks start learning the fine art of car thefts on such old cars, then they drive it till they run out of petrol and abandon them and/or set them on fire for fun. The thief who tried to start the car of the OP must have been a dropout.

Snobby or not, the car thieves from the UK target old cars not for their financial value, but for being easy to start, then to commit felonies using them, or just for having a ride then abandon them in a ditch. So I reiterate my advice to install an alarm.

You're welcome. We are here to help on our own free time to the best of our abilities, from passion for these classic Czech cars. Enjoy Rita. Please install a (better) theft alarm system.

According to wiring diagrams,the only orange wire related to ignition contact is the radio casette player power supply. It is the wire having a fuse on it.

Terminal 30 has one black wire and one orange wire, not red.

Ignition switch pins 30 - one black wire (to battery) and one orange wire (to radio) 15 - two black wires (to fuse/relay box and ignition coil) P - N/C 50 - yellow (to starter) 16 - two red wires (brake fluid level sensor and lamp)

Are you sure that all wires come from the ignition barrel? Have a look under the dashboard to see what else was cut. By the way, what engine code has your Favorit?

https://www.catcar.info/en/

His initial reply had other, hateful content. It was deleted after I reported it.

First look for the straightness of the links. I've seen gear linkages hit by boulders and deformed. Then you have to assess the play in each link. There are repair kits that have new bushings and parts of the gear linkage. Or be creative and build your own new parts.

Thank you for the translation of an unrelated example. If you have anything constructive to share that will help the OP fix his issue on the master brake cylinder, enlighten us. But if you are interested only in bickering, talking semantics, or throwing hateful comments, better stay away. The forum is for helping people, not a platform for people who need anger management classes.

That was exactly what I said too. Nobody talked about caliper. 6 speed concentric clutch cylinder ??? What are you talking about? The topic is about the MC on Felicia and a simple, logical observation that fluid goes out when pushing the brake pedal, then air gets in when releasing the brake pedal.

Then it looks like a seal has failed and the brake fluid is seeping out through the end of the MC. Remember that if fluid leaks out, air gets in.

https://webautocats.com/etka/skoda/fel/101/

The photo is not from the right angle to see if it is indeed a leak from the master cylinder (MC) unions or between the reservoir and MC. Rebuild kit for the MC: yes, there is on eBay. I recommend a new MC, especially if you didn't change the brake fluid periodically.

If the world will not become a radioactive desert next year, I might turn 60. But I don't see myself turning 80, unless somebody invents organs cloning or the vaccine for becoming eternal 😎 Stay strong, Mike!

Do you think you can find a new one? Or do you think to refurbish it?

If the car had only one owner, you, or the car has been repaired only in authorized garages with full service documents, then you are a good driver who took care of his car. Nevertheless, the clutch disc performance degraded over time. A stronger clutch disc on a stock flywheel will chew it faster. Regular clutch disks are created to wear themselves instead of the flywheel. I mean, when two different parts are in contact, one of them got to give faster in the process of operation. So the question is: what do you prefer? A stronger clutch disc and replace the flywheel? Or a regular clutch disc, and you change it periodically?