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RicardoM

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Everything posted by RicardoM

  1. Recommend BUGIAD BSP22032. Second option, VIKA. https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/007040270-cooling-motor-8971.html
  2. Before buying an "universal" fuel pump, you have to check the specifications: max. fuel flow and output pressure. For carburetor Felicia, too high output pressure will overcome the float needle valve and flood the engine.
  3. Felicia factory manuals are the reference for repairs. Haynes is full of mistakes and SSP brochures are only generic.
  4. Usually they are scrapped, not repaired. I know that money is scarce today for a Felicia owner, but sometimes it is easier to buy new parts.
  5. I presume that you need a specific answer, not generic videos from the Internet. My answer for you is this: 1) If it is not broken, don't fix it. Relax. Fan motors don't need maintenance other than changing brushes (if you are lucky to find suitable ones) 2) You may open it, but I advise you not. The small metal catches have a high chance to break. 3) When the fan motor will break, buy another available replacement motor. Meanwhile, check the market using the part number. Use the pinned topic about online catalogs for Felicia.
  6. 1) It is a stupid test. Inertia still works. 2) Run over the moose.
  7. No, other than having the confirmation the rpm is 'hunting". The most common cause is dirty throttle body.
  8. You are making the same mistake again and again. You are not the exponent of the rest of the forum members. You don't know what everybody thinks, so you are creating statistics out of thin air, based only on your hatred and envy. Rest assured, I know exactly where my value stands, and I don't need any confirmation from you. Moreover, I have a life full of accomplishments outside this forum, and I am neither desperate after recognition, nor paranoid if something insignificant happened to my "trusty" car. What you are saying negative about me are in fact projections of your own insecurity and feeble ego. It is very easy to see that you are obsessed with being the first and most active member in this section. You crave for having a high number of replies. Sadly, it is not the quantity of replies that counts, but the quality. Having hundreds of replies on the same topic in a never ending ping pong with the same member is hilarious. The longer a topic about one technical issue, the lower the value of the topic is because that shows that no common solution was found. Efficiency is zero at the expense of pure amateurism. Try to exercise more modesty and don't give up on anger management classes. Being loud and vulgar does not make you a man. Enjoy.
  9. The interpretation of my initial statement is only coming from YOUR level of understanding. That does not make you the spoke person of "all Skodians". It is just you and your level of knowledge. I would like also to add that I prefer you to stop interacting with me on any level. I really don't care what you think you know about cars or how big of a tragedy is any minute issue.
  10. Old cars suffer from corrosion of the wiring and connectors. Rain water can get to the relay box quite often. I would dismantle the relay box and check for damage. Then I would check every connector in the engine bay area for corrosion. WD-40 is your friend.
  11. An OBD II scanner will never show specific Felicia error codes. Only generic error codes. The software VAG-COM R409 that comes on a CD with the OBD I scanners is everything you need for Felicia. Better than that is the original VAS software and interface made by VW. It is more expensive and usually delivered only to VAG dealers.
  12. Yes. Remember, there are two thermistors inside. One for the gauge and one for the ECU. Wrong coolant temperature signal, inefficient operation of the engine. I mean, not to the point the pistons will fly out the bonnet, but possible rough idle, higher consumption, etc.
  13. There is a section dedicated to OBD in this forum. Skoda Felicia is not OBD2 compliant. Only OBD1. You will need either VCDS-Lite or VAG-COM R409 as software on Windows, As a "cable" aka scanner, you need a Chinese knock-off OBD-USB interface with a CD software because original cables are discontinued. It is hard to guarantee for any of those OBD-USB cables on the market. It is a gamble.
  14. Mike, you are a wise man at your age. Why telling them how much money they can steal from you? The normal process is this: pay for a thorough diagnosis (in your case, that would be to check for errors in the computer/ECU, compression test, cylinder leak down test, eventually use a borescope to look at piston and valves) then assess the damage, then come with a quote. Just listening the engine is no diagnosis. As for the noise, unless there is a loud mechanical noise (like bangs, rattling, screeching, etc.) or there are coolant/oil leaks, you don't have to worry YET. Your car should last another 100,000 miles easily if proper maintained. PS I hope the timing chain is OK. Have you ever changed it?
  15. The engine no start and running rough when it starts is potentially related to a bad coolant sensor. As Ken said, engine start is highly dependent on the coolant temperature. Wrong sensor, bad for the engine. Mike, can you record a video of the "lot of noise" part? Or at least describe it better? Compare it with other noises. That is the important part of the problem the engine has. One other thing. Was the issue at hand sudden? Or did it progressively develop in time through a harder and harder to start problem?
  16. @Larry97 If you had sent me the photo I have asked for, I would have drawn for you how to repair the circuit.
  17. How about doing a diagnose with a VAG-COM interface to look for stored errors? I think you will find concrete evidence for faults.
  18. You don't know anything about my > 4300 replies in this section, otherwise you would have known that being a jerk doesn't make you smarter.
  19. It is all about pollution. Rubber industry is highly pollutant. China has no issues with pollution, yet. So almost all polluting industries are outsourced to China.
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