Yogi-Bear

Yeah… I have considerably less options.

Can't remember having it in the year I've had the new one... if I have, it's only been once or twice. Was every few weeks in my first bear.

I'm going off my (probably rather poor) memories of last winter. It hasn't got cold enough yet for me to turn either on so far, but give it a few more weeks. Edit: Hit post too early... meant to say that it may be because of coming from an Edition with leather seats, where they got really nice and toasty, to the vRS with fabric seats that I don't think stay hot as well as the leather ones 🙂

Mine too… it’s a good 5 minutes at least before it starts to feel vaguely warm. Same for the seats as well IMHO. And there’s absolutely no need for the lower settings because neither the wheel nor the seats get hotter than ‘comfortable’ before the heat starts cycling on/off.

There's a reason racing cars use 'slicks' when it's not wet... tyres with no tread give more grip on dry tarmac. However, they're useless on any other surface or if the tarmac isn't bone-dry. What's the minimum tread depth for tyres to be legal in Switzerland?

You did what the message asked, and checked the light... I usually ignore message the first couple of times (unless they tell me to stop right there and then) and worry about them if they become persistent. A bit like the wife nagging me to do things 🤣.

If it's worth more than the balloon payment, why would you do that!? The only circumstance in which it's worth handing the car back is if it is worth less than the balloon payment. In this case, with used prices as they are - never mind the lower mileage - doing that would be a really bad choice.

Yeah, but it definitely does something more than just the gearbox - on the VRS it turns the *%$^$* sound actuator on as well, which is more than a little annoying.

With the massive increases in prices over the last 3 years, and high interest rates, I very much doubt that any similar spec car is going to work out cheaper - even with the hopefully still very strong residuals in the current vehicle. At the end of the day - you still need to pay the whole amount back to VWFS. Whether that is through monthly payments or a larger balloon payment, it doesn't really make much difference. If you got them to agree to lower payments now, you'll just owe more in a year at the end of the agreement. So no, unless there is a compelling reason to renegotiate (and I think the difference it would make is minimal anyway), I'd stick and see what happens next year. Having said that... if you are wanting to swap the car at the end of the PCP, you probably need to start looking now in case order times are still an issue (and if you order before the end of the year, you'll beat the usual January price increase, which could be significant given how high inflation is at the moment).

I think you're experiencing exactly the same as I do in my vRS. The problem isn't one of power - it's the crappy fly-by-wire throttle and the response (or lack thereof) built into it. Not only is there an appreciable delay in any response, but it also appears to be a curved response - i.e. something like throttle/power mappings of 25%/10% 50%/30% 75%/60% 100%/100% (I'm not claiming that to be precise, just to illustrate what I mean). The 'tuning' of the gearbox isn't particular brilliant either, but it's not the main cause of the issue. I am led to believe that a pedal box can overcome some/most of the issue by changing the response to be a little more linear and predictable. I have also seen things to 'flash' the gearbox with a different 'tune' to make it better. I have tried neither of these options, but I may be tempted at some point. Edit: It's worth noting that VAG use the same systems/gearboxes across different marques - but you'll find Audi has more 'sporty' and 'responsive' mappings for the throttles and gearboxes. It's part of how they differentiate whilst still using the same parts.

You might be better off pointing in the Fabia forum... But, in any case, any replacement parts and work should be guaranteed for at least 12 months regardless of warranty status. If it is the same thing that has failed again, then I'd be straight back down the dealer to demand they fix their shoddy repair job.

Yeah - that was my next course of action... it's due a service next month so will get it sorted then.

Yes. Even tried pulling it down a bit and pushing it again to make sure I could actually move it... but each time it is opening all the way to the top. And then 🤬 beeping.

Nope. Didn't beep the first time after (re)setting it - but then started beeping again after that. Same every time I (re)set it.

It wasn't beeping from new, but started a few months ago... it's now not beeping again after resetting the opening height by holding the button when it's open. Let's see if that lasts...

@Deceased - might be a daft question, but what exactly is broken about the unit? I’m guessing it’s not even remotely fixable, given your question!

Didn't change the tyres on my last bear in 3.5 years, and only changed the front tyres on the Octavia vRS I had before that once in 3.5 years because of a puncture. Pretty sure they were Conti Sports on both, maybe... my memory isn't what it used to be! I'd suggest driving style and "the rare track day" might be at least partly the cause - they certainly shouldn't be showing that much wear after only 20,000km. Edit: My current vRS Kodiaq (new petrol version) has Conti Sport Contact, and I've done nearly 6,500 miles (roughly 10,000km) so far in just under a year... and they still look like they're new.

I’m really struggling to see your point… would you care to explain why that matters if the overall aerodynamics of the car are far better? If you don’t know why a teardrop / aerofoil (i.e. large frontal area and pointy back) is better, then maybe read up on the subject.

319 miles for the Enyaq 80x SportLine Plus 80x 339 for the 'regular' 80 is only about 15% or so. And it has 30% more power, and about 5% more weight. I'd suggest it's the weight of the extra motors, rather than the power, that reduces the range. Also, driving style... in theory, if you had two identical cars with different output motors, but they weighed the same, then you could get the same range from both. It's when you start using the extra power that you reduce the range.

The Enyaq Coupe has a significantly lower drag coefficient than your Mk3 Octavia, and it's also lower than the Mk4 Octavia. The problem is that the longer range you want, the more battery you need. Which adds weight, which means you need more battery...

If it looks anything like this*, sign me up for my next Kodiaq (if it retains the name). *it won’t. https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/press-releases/skoda-releases-first-exterior-sketches-of-vision-7s/ https://www.carmagazine.co.uk/car-news/first-official-pictures/skoda/vision-7s-concept-car/

You won't void the warranty by having a tow bar fitted by a third-party, but it will mean that you may have to prove any future issue isn't as a result of having the tow bar fitted (or, at least, that's how it works in the UK - I assume consumer law is vaguely similar in Ireland). But... the first thing to do is check and see if your car has a towing weight listed on the plate on the driver's door pillar - if not, then nowhere should fit a tow bar (even for bikes) as the car can't legally tow anything. There seems to be a whole lot of confusion around this, and it appears Skoda have not been listing towing weights unless the factory fit tow bar (or, at least, the tow bar prep) is fitted at the time of purchase.

iOS / iPadOS volume controls are a black art, these days. Each ‘thing’ seems to have a separate volume setting and unless you change it at just the right moment, you’re just changing the main volume setting. Try getting someone to call you while you’re sat in the car, and while the phone is ringing, change the volume. Being stationary is recommended, obviously 😉.

Welcome @Zakpaddy... unfortunately I think the lack on answers probably reflects a lack of knowledge of faults of this kind. Personally, I'd just be taking it to the dealer to sort out, especially if it is still within warranty.

I'm now curious as to whether anyone with a VRS has kept the aero covers on...