bspman

Located down the side somewhere, plugged in, started, EML gone. Locking Thread - will post up a new one with pics at some point on how I removed the intake manifold.

Just checked my pics.. I forgot to plug in a connector 😅 Not sure where to find it - but I'll probably have to pull my airbox out again.

Just to add - I had a look at performing the manifold manner basic settings ( 01 - engine, 04 - basic, group 142, go , on/off/next) but saw that Runner Flap B1 adaption just showed error. It did, however, correctly report runner position if I manually moved the flaps. I'm a bit unsure on this one but likely cause seems a missed wire?

Hi, So recently following a bunch of guides (and some very useful advice from @TheClient I managed to remove my intake manifold and clean my inlet valves (and put 4 new injectors in). It runs SO much better now.. except for the engine management light. Tried to scan and clear but still got the EML. The relevant bit: Address 01: Engine Labels: 06J-907-115-CCZ.clb Control Module Part Number: 1Z0 907 115 AF HW: 1Z0 907 115 F Component and/or Version: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0010 Software Coding: 0203000C1C070160 Work Shop Code: WSC 73430 790 00999 VCID: 79FE6174307CCD4106-802C 1 Fault Found: 008200 - Intake Manifold Flap; Bank 1 P2008 - 000 - Electrical Malfunction - MIL ON Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 11100000 Fault Priority: 0 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 255 Mileage: 198952 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2063.14.31 Time: 08:17:45 Freeze Frame: RPM: 1420 /min Load: 13.3 % Speed: 0.0 km/h Temperature: 38.0°C Temperature: 15.0°C Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar Voltage: 11.430 V Readiness: 0100 0000 The full dump:

Do it - it'll cost money. If it goes wrong it'll cost a WHOLE lot more. I'm not going to say anything else except go look at this thread and decide if you want to become another statistic. Guess who didn't and had to pay a whole lot more and still has issues to this day?

Our local shell ran out last week, Filled up both mine and my wife's car when they were back in stock after speaking with the owner and finding out about the delivery delays. Mine was under a quarter and wife's was on red and beeping angrily at her. Anyway.... we're good for another 2 - 3 weeks. Mum's car was written off with a full tank of fuel, new car had none so much fun was had trying to siphon. End result was a shorted relay and a pipe out the fuel filter to empty out 3/4 of the tank into her new car.

oh and from another thread:

IIRC means "if I recall correctly". As for how to do this... go to 09 (central electronics) then change the coding/long coding. There will be a series of hexidecimal fields value would be anywhere from 00-FF IIRC. The 17th or 18th one along will probably have some check boxes below where you can enable the function. Remember to take note of any changes you make. If you are still quite new to this - look up some VCDS tutorial videos on youtube and don't do something you're not confident doing and understand that there are risks involved (that could result in you breaking something).

This echoes my experience too 😞

I JUST did my rear wiper motor as well. Do you want me to take a picture as I haven't put the cover back on yet @Papfox ?

You don't necessarily need the soldering iron - A replacement resistor will be fine. They're like £8.

Maybe worth a scan, clear and scan again after a week of driving and vehicle use. issue #3 - fan resistor?

Sometimes it's not an error but just the temp readings themselves that are iffy. Check VCDS measurements for temp sensors and see if anything looks iffy. Solid advice from @MicMac as well

Update: It's reading bad figures again - I may change it as it's only £20 and then tape it in place.

Just in case anyone else runs into this one. Turns out this may not be a very vehicle specific solution so read on! The drivers side vent on my skoda (mk2 octavia FL) was blowing cold air on climate control. Scan with VCDS showed that the driver side footwell was reporting 87 deg. C, drivers vent was reporting 11 (likely due to the car trying to bring down the footwell temp). Other 2 vents were fairly normal. I pulled the dash down from below (5 torx screws - 2 at the bottom, 2 behind silver panels and 1 in the fuse box). Then a further screw for some plastic venting. I got to the sensor as as I tried to remove it (unclip then 90 degree turn) I heard a click. Turns out the clip had come out of the sensor a little bit resulting in a mis-reported temp. Now the sensor reads a much more normal value! I do have 2 weird rubber fin-type things that fell out though and I'm not sure where they fell out of but I've kept them.

I used to change with 4-6mm tread depth because I used to do a lot of motorway miles with country lanes too and didn't want to chance my safety. For local town driving I'll hit close to the legal limit As for your choice of all season tyre, my 2p was that vector 4season G2s were a bit wafty on my 16s (felt a bit imprecise). used Crossclimates on the mrs' fabia (14s) and my mk2 vrs (18s) and the crossclimates felt far more precise on both. I believe someone else echo'd the same sentiment when it came to 4seasons vs crossclimates in a thread from some time ago.

I feel like I'm nearing this point now. It's just too much hassle. The limits around here are 20mph and there's usually a lot of traffic. It was a different story when I drove lots of twisty country roads.. but I'm local now.. and in retrospect going for a mk2 VRS was a silly idea. Should've just bough a people carrier

I've replaced coilpacks, fuel filter, spark plugs and air filter For me It's likely the injectors not spraying well/intake being coked up.

Not just me. I was just silly enough not to get my tensioner changed when symptoms started showing: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/28-skoda-octavia-mk-ii-2004-2013/ Also I know people with golfs with the same/similar engine having issues too. EA888 mk3 engines aren't prone to intake manifolds coking up either. the Mk2 may need an intake carbon clean which require complete removal of the intake manifold.

My honest opinion.. if I had a chance to go back I would have waited and saved extra for the mk3 since the extra costs on this have already added up to over the cost of a mk3.

A bit of thread necromancy - before deciding to get everything opened up - I considered my injectors being potentially being gummed up. I added some forte injector cleaner with a full tank of vpower and took it for an italian tune up. There is a definite improvement with the cold misfire (less often) but it definitely feels more pronounced when it does happen. Using a heavier foot for now when coolant isn't up to temp.

Are you sure it's the brakes and pads? I had an issue with with clunking. Replaced front shocks and rear pads. Still no joy. After replacing the rear bearing the clunking stopped!

So with the 2010 it should be a facelift (engine code CCZA) and have a chain rather than a belt. There have been a few revisions since the original one but I cannot for the life of me remember the date of the last revision. May be worth budgeting for it in the future.

You should be sorted then, I hope! It was only a case of replacing due to early versions failing. How long ago did they replace it?

That may help, but I imagine it won't solve the issue of excessive smoke from a rich map.