langers2k

Yes, if I remember correct there is space for two standard rectangular microphones in the light done. There might be a plastic foam there but it just pulls out. What are you trying to do?

Nope, but I think there is space for two if I remember correctly. I think the idea is just to fit one closest to the driver.

Certainly looks like the ECU is out to lunch. Given the other modules (ie: abs) on the drive canbus are present, that suggests the can gateway and its wiring are good. I'd be verifying the power(s), ground(s) and both can high and low wires are happy. First with a multimeter to confirm continuity and then ideally load test too. If that checks out, it points to the ECU being dead. I've just arrived in Kos for a week so I can't check any wiring diagrams to suggest which pins to look at. Makes me wonder if there are some permanent and switched lives, but just one is sad stopping the ECU turning on?

That's very unlikely to be plug and play. Looking in the manual, it has a kenwood specific connector on the rear and includes a lead for standard ISO connectors. A MK2 Octavia will use a quadlock so you'll need an adaptor to convert between quadlock and ISO. You'll also need to run an extra wire as there is no switched ignition feed, the easiest thing is to run a wire to the fusebox and use a piggyback fuse from a switched ignition feed. If you don't, the radio won't turn on and off with the key. I have no idea if it can display parking sensors but the beeps should work regardless of which headunit you have. Finally, you'll also need some kind of facia adaptor as that's a rectangular headunit and the original Skoda headunits aren't

The OP has a MK2 1Z Octavia whereas that video is for a MK1 1U which is why the suspension is different The OP distance doesn't seem to different to this video: When I did this I also used spring compressors to take most tension. My car was also higher as I needed access to remove the seized concentric bolts and suspension arms which made it easier to get a jack and block of wood under the spring mount during reassembly. There is always a risk the spring can fly out but if it's properly seated, it should be OK... Just be mindful of where your fingers are compared to the spring!

Check if there are wires to pins 14 and 15 on the connector. Not sure about colours I'm afraid.

It's also memory as in different positions per key and even different dip amounts per key. I believe you just adjust them and it should remember the position for next time that key is used Non-memory mirrors have no positional feedback so can't do per key positioning and just dip a set amount.

Your son-on-laws VCDS is out of date so you should update and it's not an autoscan Your issue is: Until you can restore communications, you won't get the headlights working properly. You want it see both submodules, like this example: Only then will you be able recode and perform the basic settings. This generation of Superb is known to suffer water ingress so I'd suggest removing the left headlight then checking the control module on it's underside. Make sure the pins are clean and corrosion free. Hopefully that'll restore comms and let you fix this I think the official method is to remove the bumper but if you or your son-on-law are adventurous, it might be possible to get to the module from underneath with the bumper still fitted...

Start VCDS, press autoscan, press start then wait... Then hit copy and use CTRL+V (or right click, the paste) to insert the data in to a forum post: Otherwise, you can hit save to create a new file (make a note of where it saves to!!). Then attach the file to a post by either dragging the file or selecting "choose file" to find the file you saved

When you spec memory seats, you also get a different motor to move the mirrors (extra 4 wires for position) and highline door controllers (to support the extra wires). It's the memory motors and highline door controllers that make this possible, not the memory seats Below is an example of someone retrofitting the passenger side memory mirror to a MK3 Octavia .Obviously you'd need to do both sides and use Karoq appropriate part numbers but the process is the same...

Can you post a full autoscan from VCDS to give us some ideas what you're dealing with?

It's because the windows motor thinks there's an obstruction so stops and backs off... You need to find out what's causing the extra drag so it no longer trips the anti-trap function

Nope... I can't see how an MOT or tyre change could cause the symptoms you've described. An MOT really shouldn't damage anything. Obviously if something is about to fail, for example a brake hose, it could fail during the MOT but that's not really their fault. I guess ABS wiring/sensors can get damaged during tyre changes but that wouldn't explain your issues and is pretty unlikely unless they are super hamfisted.

Sounds like the CAN-bus gateway might be having issues or something lost it's coding/stopped communicating... You need to get VCDS or similar attached to see what's going on. A local member might be able to do an autoscan for you which will help us make more informed guesses.

Something is probably causing excess friction and triggering the anti-trap function so it doesn't chop off fingers... The plastic gears inside the window motor can wear otherwise, there might be something in the window channels. My Octavia's drivers window does it occationally in hot weather...

Check the fuses in the engine bay fusebox. The lighting one will probably have a micro fracture or have over heated causing oxidation 🙂

The indirect TPMS on a Yeti uses the rotation data from the ABS sensors, there are no actual pressures sesnors in the wheels. You just need to check/adjust the tyre pressues and hit the TPMS reset button.

If both the alloy and steel wheels are from Skoda, they should use the same bolts If the are aftermarket, you should check what bolt they need.

Might be worth checking the brakes have been serviced (fresh fluid, caliper seals/slides in good condition, decent pads/discs) before looking to upgrade them. Kenwood made a couple of VW/Skoda specific headunits: - https://www.kenwood.eu/car/navigation_multimedia/navigation/DNX521DAB - https://kenwood-electronics.co.uk/car/oem/vw/DNX525DAB/ Otherwise, the headunit out of a 2015+ Yeti is a good OEM option https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/409691-amundsen-mib-std2-infotainment-system-with-android-in-superb-ii/ Mostly depends on your budget

You'll need to compare the two wiring diagrams and see how much of the original wiring is useful. A quick flick through suggests you should be able to reuse power, ground, CAN-bus and the level sensor wires. You might need to make a couple of wiring looms for the headlights as the pre-FL looks to have 8 wires (4 to each headlight) for range control rather than 2 wires in the FL (CAN-bus).

A multimeter will tell you which are ignition switched pretty quickly Otherwise, you can get the wiring diagrams here: https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do

I believe it's the CAN gateway not sending a signal to the headunit to tell it to enter full standby. Instead it sits there booted ready to go :) The newer gateways send the extra message to make sure the newer headuntis fullyenter standby.

It's a CAN-bus gateway or CAN gateway. This page from rosstech gives the basics: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Navigation_System_(RNS510)_Retrofitting It will need coding in after fitting. The advantage is you don't need to mess with your wiring and create a custom switch. The problem is that most (all?) the stock switch are probably push-to-make or push-to-break. This means they can't stay in both the off and on positions so won't work are you'd like them to and will need modifying. You'd need a used stock switch with a random symbol (ASR, ESP, park assist, etc), take it apart and replace it's internals with a on-off switch that's capable of switching the 15-20A supply to the headunit. Otherwise, you can just grab a bog standard switch and hide it somewhere out of view. As memtioned by Mac11irl, the Bolero isn't designed to have it's power cut constantly so it might not like it.

£100!? Probably closer to £20 for a used one from eBay or a breakers yard :)

The unit in the glove box is the headunit and also contains the bluetooth module. The bit in the dashboard is just a touchscreen There are occationally updates for the headunit which can contain BT updates but I'm not sure if it'll help. Add a picture showing your headunit details to the following thread as Pab seems to have updates for most headunits: