langers2k

Assuming you have a MK2 Octavia, this guide might help:

It's possible, but as I say it's not something I'm aware of, nor can I see any obvious mentions online from other Skoda owners. I think there is a coolant temperature warning though

What are you actually trying to achieve or understand? As others have said, I'm also not aware of any oil temperature warning alarm. The sender will give the current temperature and it'll probably be the engine ECU or the instrument cluster that decide if it's 'too hot'...

Based on the post linked below, the pre-FL maxidot is not compatible with a FL MFSW.

Not in a car I'm familiar with but given there are a few options for number of gears and reverse placement, it maybe helpful if others drive it. That and it looks much neater if the legend is clearly visible

Nothing so fancy in a MK2 Superb I'm afraid, the legend has simply worn away but you can probably replace the insert You need something similar to this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183853012062 but check it's compatible with your Superb before buying. edit: Not sure what style you have, it may need a replacement gearknob rather than just an insert...

You might want to add more information as there are plenty of different Octavia's through out the years. At a guess, I'm assuming a MK2 Octavia and I'd start by checking the battery voltage, fuses, engine bay fuse holder contacts, relays and the ignition switch

Might be worth talking to these guys: https://www.need4street.de/ACC-option-predictive-control-MQB

Pretty sure only the vRS models get the sound generator

PCC uses satnav data to choose an appropriate speed for upcoming corners, roundabouts etc. It's on some of the VW Arteons I've not heard of anyone retrofitting it yet. To start with, you need to compare modules HW/SW versions and coding with a car that does support PCC. The next problem will be SWaP/FeC codes as I expect you'll need some extra ones installing. This may not be possible via VW/Skoda...

@Martyf - standard fakra colour codes apply. double white is AM/FM blue is GPS black is DAB

I'd be tempted to remove the rest of the mount as it'll be easier to do it on a workbench than upwards against a window. I've not removed this style but this video makes it look very easy: On the plus, this style should be pretty cheap if you can't get it back together

You should try and keep your posts in one place. In your other thread you've added a picture with paint codes that appear to tally with 1K0 511 115 BS. @Carlston - you suggested BS in his other thread, which I'd agree with assuming the springs/paint codes are original

On the MK2 Superb, it's not uncommon for water ingress to cause corrosion on the AFS slave pins. They are stuck on the underside of each headlight so not the easiest to get at.

Should be assuming it was fine before you unplugged the seat and you've plugged it back in

It'll need the fault code clearing with VCDS or similar. Although I'm also in England, I may not be close! You might find someone more local on the VCDS map in the VCDS section

The two wires from the white section on the 40 pin side to the blue block on the 52 pin side should be the mic. However, looking at a RNS-510 wiring diagram, it seems they are in the wrong place? On the 40 pin side, it should be pins 1 and 7 on connector C: On the 52 pin side, it should be pins 1 and 7 on connector B: It's probably worth checking the adaptor actually does that... As for coding, I can't check with VCDS for individual bits/bytes but I used lcode 03130601FF00000051110201008800002F0100D60120010046 on my unit looking at old scans

Basically it depends what the car was originally equipt with. If you had the Columbus/RNS-510 with voice control, the mic should already be wired to the quadlock so assuming the 40-52 pin quadlock adaptor has the two wires, it'll just work. If you had a Columbus/RNS-510 without voice control or any other headunit and a bluetooth module, the mic is directly wired to the BT module. You'll need to tweak the wiring to move the mic to the new headunit.

Disconnect the old Bluetooth module, it's no longer needed. Neither 37 or 56 exist as the new unit is at 5f 😉

Just remember that when you unlock the car or open a door/bonnet, it will cause various systems to turn on and the current consumption to increase. This is why the correct method includes fooling the door/bonnet switches and waiting for all system to shutdown or enter 'sleep' mode. That's the only way to get a true idea of whats happening when the car is still locked and shutdown or 'sleeping'.

Follow the "current draw diag.pdf" I posted earlier in this thread... In short, fool the door/bonnet open sensors, lock the car and wait two hours, check the mV over each fuse to confirm the current draw

We should get a batsignal for @Rustynuts at some point To the OP, you can either PM him or if you use an @ symbol before typing someones name, they should get a notification they've been mentioned (as above).

That's only valid for vehicles with stop-start technology. Looking at the scan, I'm pretty sure this Yeti doesn't have stop-start so it's both impossible and not necessary to recode after battery replacement

That's very very low for the battery. I'd start by getting it charged and ideally tested, if it's a cheaper brand it maybe faulty. If you want to trace a battery drain, you should follow the VW instructions that I've attached. Yes. Yes - I can't remember which they are but I think they are both in the engine bay fuse box? Guide to load/volt testing wires: Current draw diag.pdf

The 37: Navigation errors are nothing to do with the 03: ABS issues as it's most likely to be a corroded roof antenna For me, the most interesting fault code is: 00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent That suggests the ABS module is unexpectedly losing power: - check the ABS connectors (plug and socket) are clean and correctly connected - I'd probably replace both ABS fuses to rule out corrosion or micro fractures, check the fuse board connectors are clean and tight - if it continues, load test all power and ground connections to the ABS module and check for any obvious chaffing