langers2k

I think it's these two screws to start with, then the painted outer case should come off. Just be careful of the plastic clips near each screw.

It to let air in to the jumbo box from the AC system 😉 If I remember correctly, you can either heat or cool it.

A breakers or scrap yard with a few crashed vRS' would be the cheapest place for the interior/exterior parts and suspension/brakes. You can also check eBay and similar? A dealer could sell you new parts but I'd expect this to be very very expensive. A remap would need doing by a decent local tuner.

I'd probably start by putting the original BCM and steering control modules back in. 1) I think there is an adaption channel to specify where the steering angle sensor is, possibly in 03 ABS or 44 steering assistance. 2) I'd agree it's likely wiring given the tell tail works. Check T52aa/5 and T52ac/46 on the BCM go the left and right main beam bulbs. 3) The 16 steering controller coding is definitely wrong, maybe try 0000034 as that might get CC back - the ABS issue could also cause this. 4) This is down to the 09 BCM coding, byte 14, bit 0 should be 1 to enable front fogs. 5) Check the blower fan is free to move? 6) You need to pair both remotes. VCDS can do this but not sure about OBDeleven.

Easiest and cheapest way is to sell it and buy a vRS It depends in what way you want it to be like a vRS though. Obvious options: - exterior styling (front/rear bumpers, spoiler, alloys etc) - interior styling (seats, steering wheel etc) - remap, suspension and brake upgrades to 'match' vRS performance

The op has not been online since they made that post. As mentioned above, you should start by getting the car scanned for fault codes as that should give some clues 🙂

Not all countries get the option in the maxidot. VCDS or a dealer said be able to change the adaption channel.

Turn off travel mode either via the maxidot or the AFS master adaption channel.

I think they are pretty much the same as the Octavia. In which case, the mirror comes off first. Then there are two screws and clips holding the coloured outer case on which can be tricky. Then two more screws and clips holding the indicator. Due to the screws, I don't think the credit card method with get you anywhere...

There are lots of fake and low quality xenon bulbs on the market. If you didn't buy a reputable brand from an authorised reseller, they could just be dodgy bulbs

An MFD2 is not a Columbus... A Columbus would be an RNS-510

That's because it's not actually a relay despite being described as one. A better description is a canbus translator/convertor? It has two can bus connections, one that speaks can 1.6 to the car and one that speaks can 2.0 to the headunit. It translates the messages from one to the other. It just happens to be the same form factor as a standard relay but the function/pins are completely different.

The older CAN-HEX interfaces were never VIN limited so there were no VIN's to use up. They are great for helping people with compatible cars but it's become more difficult since the newer cars are incompatible with older interfaces. Personally, i don't think it's unreasonable to ask for payment on VIN-limited interfaces as long as you're upfront about the costs. On a side note, this is why I prefer the 10-VIN edition as it's much better value: - 3-VIN £225 or £75 per VIN - 10-VIN £299 or £30 per VIN The 10-VIN also only needs one 'upgrade' to become unlimited. Currently, upgrades are £169 or $169 (~£130 at today's exchange rate), it means to get an unlimited version is: - £485 if you start with a 3-VIN (225+130+130) - £429 is you start with a 10-VIN (299+130) - £450 is you go straight for unlimited Assuming you start with a 10-VIN and charge £10-15 per VIN will pretty much pay for the 10 to unlimited upgrade cost as you run out of VIN's. Once you're unlimited you can still charge £10 to recoup the initial VCDS costs

Pretty sure that's a Skoda Nexus, also known as a MFD2. They are pretty old and I don't think they've had a map update for a while. You might need a new facia depending what headunit you currently have?

From Rosstechs FAQ (https://forums.ross-tech.com/showthread.php?8869): It's worth considering a 10-VIN version as at least when I upgraded to a HEX-V2, it worked out as better value for money. Plus you're also only one upgrade away from unlimited VINs

The shocks shouldn't effect the ride height. It's more likely to be the springs. You might have snapped one end off the spring on the lower side 🙂

Nope. Rns510 maps only work with an rns510 😉

@Colinn500 - can you explain your problem and exactly what device you're using? If you have an AUX socket, I would not expect it to connect to the 4 'Tel' pins. Instead, it should go to the 3 'Aux' pins (1, 2, 7) in section 'B'.

Yup, if you're switching key fobs, you'll have immobiliser problems. However, if you're only replacing the coil on the end of the ignition lock, you'll be fine. If you're swapping the ignition barrel, coil and switch the key blades to match on your existing keys, you'll be fine. At least until the battery goes flat and you can't use the keys to unlock the drivers door

As far as I know... - The MK3 pre-FL gets bi-xenons with a similar AFS2 system to the FL MK2, although I think it has the AFS2 modes enabled by default (city, highway, rain modes) - The MK3 FL gets LED headlights but drops back to AFS1 as there is no sideways/cornering movement of the LED projector. Instead, I think it has static cornering lights to help make up the difference, not sure they are as good

The CR engines (aka EA189) are the ones caught up in the VW emissions scandal. That depends who you believe. They probably put out too much NOx as it appears the software was designed to cheat during the emissions test. Skoda/VW claim it's not an issue but various govening bodies around the world disagree. At least in the UK, there is an optional software update and some engines also have flow smoothing devices added. I think the flow smoothing is specific to the smaller 1.6l engines. Currently it's completely optional and it makes no different for the MOT. Not to my knowledge, it's specifically EA189 engines and PD's are EA188's I think? The reason I mention the fix is because various people have reported issues with fuel economy, performance and reliability after having the update. Basically, the engine has to make more use of the EGR valve to change the combustion characteristics to produce less NOx. A side effect is it will produce more soot causing the DPF to regeneration more often. On older vehicles, it can also cause EGR issues due to carbon build up prior to the update. All of which has left some owners very disappointed since having the fix applied. As an FYI, depending on which PD engines you're looking at, it may come with a DPF which have also been known to be problematic as the PD wasn't really designed with a DPF in mind. I know it all seems a bit gloomy... On the plus, I've had zero issues with my 'unfixed' 2011 CR140 that's almost on 200k. At the end of the day, it mostly comes down to how many miles your doing a year and what style of journey to whether a TDi is the right choice.

If you're looking at CR engines, ideally you want to know if it's had the emissions fix or not

Tilt relative to the road surface will be done by the suspension level sensors. Something similar to the longitudinal acceleration sensor found in ABS modules for hill hold control could be used for incline detection (absolute). I'm not aware of one being fitted in the AFS master so I don't think it's used. At least on the PQ35 generation of car... When I get a MK3 I'll take a look through the measuring blocks for the AFS controller as it'll have led headlights with leveling. Should give an idea of what data is available and therefore what's plausible 😉

As mentioned before, I'm pretty sure you need Skoda part number 5J0 035 751. That's the converter/adaptor between CAN 1.6 and 2.0 which looks like this: https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5j0035751-relay-487-skoda-24938.html

What did you actually ask as they seem to be discussing amplifiers?