MotorsportFinland

Hi, have you replaced any tyres recently, are they the same size in all four wheels?

Hi, there are three types: 22mm for cars with front drums and no booster 19mm for cars with front discs and booster, A-series ->1983 (big line connector "nut-type-of-thingy") 19mm for cars with front discs and booster, A-series 1983-> and M-series Two of these are available for you locally from mainland http://warreteam.com/varaosat2/index.htm You could also ask Riku if he is able to get the first model for you if necessary. Thre are some parts that are hard to get but I recommend asking. BR, Timo

Here in Finland nearly all Favorits and Formans have been deleted.. Occasionally one or two appears for sale. Two common places to seek from Finland are these marketplaces: https://www.nettiauto.com/skoda/forman/9424171 https://www.tori.fi/satakunta/Skoda_forman_42967081.htm?ca=18&w=3

Replacing fuse 15 did the job.. Thanks everyone!

The manifold with insert ring is most likely designed to help vacuum operated secondary butterfly work better. Skodas have Jikov EDSR and SEDR type carburettors, and both of them use vacuum operation, however in Wartburgs Jikovs are SEDR -type but mechanically operated secondary butterfly. Wartburg manifolds are simply oval shaped. There are also Skoda manifolds with steel plates, hole shaped with kind of a star for secondary choke (similar shape that is used in pastry bags/piping bags for baking purposes). I think that perforated hole is designed to work similarly in conjunction with vacuum operation?

What kind of problems has there been with TYM? I think Kalmar is most likely the manufacturer of transmission parts for TYM, I have bought one set of dog box gears some time ago and the quality of parts is super good.

TYM Motorsport, Kalmar Motorsport and of course speedpro.cz are the companies you should be checking at first. If you are building just a sportster not a competition car, things are more easier..

"two versions".. Do you mean left or right, or 1994-1998/1998-2001?

NO NO NO!!!! Never ever put WD or CRC or any other brand light penetrating oil or similar fluid in to a lock barrel, you will flush all dirt inside the lock deeper and eventually jam the parts solid! If one wants to lubricate a lock barrel, please use good quality gun oil and apply it 1 drop on to the key and wipe it off with a clean cloth once key is inserted in lock barrel once or twice. This could be repeated no more than once a year. If the lock is already jamming while in use, there is a good chance one might have to dismantle it and clean all the parts.

Some pumps are with three hole pattern.. although interchangeable with two hole ones.

Hi, here you can see how the mounts are attached on to the front part: http://skoda-virt.cz/cz/auta/specialy/10183-favorit-136l-a/ They are just pieces of tube with welded thread inserts.

Jos perävälityksen hammaskosketus on ollut kohdallaan tähän asti, niin ei sitä tarvinne korjailla kun et ole tehnyt mitään muutoksia jotka vaikuttaisivat siihen. Jos haluat tarkastaa hammaskosketuksen, niin tarvitset siniväriä jota sivelet pariin putsattuun lautaspyörän hampaaseen ja pyörität sitten sen kohdan läpi. Jos kosketuskohta on lautasen hampaan kärjessä tai tyvessä, pitää perää siirtää ja jos kosketus on etu- tai takaosassa, niin vastaavasti akselia. Siniväriä saa esim. paikallisesta Teollisuuspalvelusta tai vast., mutta voit hätätilassa korvata sinivärin vaikkapa MoS rasvalla tai jollain muulla jäykällä mutta ohuella tahmalla, johon jää kosketusjälki mutta kuitenkaan ei ole niin paksua että haittaisi hampaiden liukumista toisiaan vasten. Käytännön syistä kannattaa värjätty kohta merkitä siihen vetarin kolon luo koska joudut laittamaan kotelon kiinni kun pyörität vaihteistoa. For the majority of english speaking readers, I am deeply sorry for writing this in finnish..

I have no direct replacement, but I think you would need something like these parts? http://131abarth.com/shop/uniball/fi/35-bumpsteer-raidetangot

Hi, two basic questions: Is the gearbox IRS-type or swing axle type one? The gearbox main housing is made of two longitudinal halves. Look at the separate front (nose) part, is there an extra piece between it and gearbox housing?

Lada flywheel and clutch assembly will not fit inside Skoda bellhousing without major modifications. Why not use the Lada engine as a unit? Make an adaptor plate between engine and gearbox, extend the clutch shaft and bolt the new starter on the adaptor plate. If you want to use Skoda engine and make a use of Lada starter, I suggest you to make a sandwich plate as pictured. Adapt the flywheel to accept Lada starter by moving the starter ring to the opposite side of flywheel. If the flywheel friction surface is deeply cracked (in most cases it is), you might consider to make a new flywheel out of blank steel plate. What is your original friction plate size? 180mm or 190mm? If 180mm, you could use Wartburg and if 190mm, you might use Lada 2108 friction material if those are easily available?

Install rockers and everything else exept those two pushrods conjunction with longer valves. Then try to turn the engine without spark plugs. If it moves freely you have problem with the operation angles between rocker and valve.

See Tym Motorsport in CZ, they could be willing to send you a one..

The grill itself might but aren't the bonnet and headlights different?

If you want to safely (continuously) rev the engine over 6000 rpm you will have to change springs to avoid harmful vibrations, and also need forged pistons since cast pistons will eventually crack due stress. I dont recall are the pushrods all steel or are they different between inlet and exhaust. It might be better to run all steel in engine which is continuously on higher rpm.. Other thing is to be considered that raising too much useful rpm will cause problems when using std transmission ratios -> no low end torque + large gap between gears =

Here is a one ready bolt-on option: http://www.speedpro.eu/vyfukove-svody-sport-skoda-favorit-felicia-p-382.html For valves you can reshape and polish them, then have the valve seats cut either in three angle or radius shaped.

What do you want to do? Do you wish to have a little sportier engine, or get brutal power unit? Do you have a spare engine to tune or just this one you will use in everyday driving? What kind of money are you thinking to be able to spend on modifications? Perhaps smoothing the ports, a valve job, skimming the head, aligning inlet manifold to ports, a good tubular exhaust manifold and a sportier camshaft should give you a good start. Lightening the flywheel will give you a bit faster revving engine characteristics, and polishing crankshaft&conrods will prevent oil clinging on to them too much (no extra rotating mass).

You will have to synchronize multiple carbs so that they work ie. open and close simultaneously, otherwise one or some cylinders get leaner/richer mixture than others. You will get about nil more horsepower with bike carbs compared to well working standard carburation which is set right. You DO get beefier sound and mpg goes worse since you will open throttle more listening that sound.. I dont think you will gain anything by just changing the carbs without other modifications to the engine. Are you thinking to put them to 1,3?

1. Remove the original inlet system from cylinder head. 2. Fabricate new flanges and weld short tubes into them, or if you are able to turn ones from a single pieces its even better. 3. Attach bike carbs using either their original rubber grommets or just pieces of rubber hoses, tighten with hose clamps. 4. Fabricate a new linkage for the new carbs and remember to adjust them that they are synchronized properly. 5. Fix a proper air filter. You DO need it. 6. Start the engine, spend dozens and dozens of hours to set the mixture right. 7. Buy a A/F ratio meter, NOT the cheap chinese one.. 8. Spend yet a lot more hours to try set the mixture right. 9. Go to a rolling road specialist. 10. Drive happily since its finally ready.. You can skip phases 7 and 8.. ☺

How can you tell what has been the ignition timing if you wont check it? You can't really trust only on dirtmarks as checking ignition timing correctly isn't that difficult thing to do.. Btw.. did you perform any timing on cam belt assembly or did you just throw the parts in and tried if the crankshaft turns fully around without hitting the valves..?

ObedP, what kind of method would you use to even the head surface after the epoxy has cured? Simple brushing wont do because the material is quite hard with those metal filled epoxies. I think milling or at least sanding should be done afterwards. Are there pitting all the way under metal rings or just about? These following chemicals have been used succesfully in some difficult cases when there has been situations where a head gasket had to be used second time or even third time (not in Skoda engines but in water cooled engines both cast iron blocks with iron or aluminium heads and aluminium blocks with aluminium heads) without refacing the surfaces. Just cleaned with knives and chisels, washed with brake cleaner. VHT Copper gasket cement Blue Hylomar aerosol Permatex Copper spray-a-gasket Please note, that these repairs had not been meant to be permanent solutions, but they have been useful in those conditions.