Tinbum

Mine was just the pully on the compressor.

How longs a piece of string? Ours failed at 250,000 ish but it was only the braided link between the solenoid and the motor- easy repair. New one greased up before fitting to stop corrosion on/in the braid.

It was the anti theft part- the bit that locks it up if it's tampered with.

We had this problem a few months ago. I removed the lock barrel and then the whole steering lock assembly. Took the assembly apart and removed the broken parts within it and reassembled. Been working fine ever since. (I did by a replacement on Amazon but the lock barrel wouldn't fit in it, poor quality, so sent it back).

A mk2 doesn't need coding as far as I know, they are not that advanced. Edit- I don't know why you've also spent so much on a start stop battery when a normal one would do.

Yes always don it and I did have the local garage check and adjust tracking. remained the same. It just doesn't do it with the winter set of tyres and tracking was done with it on the summer set..

Pretty sur my ball joints are ok- never been mentioned when mot'd and they are pretty thorough.

I have exactly the same on mine on the fronts. Strangely the winter wheels/tyre sets don't do it, they wear very evenly.

Remove the motor, put a 12v battery on it and test. Sure it will be faulty. Mine didn't click. When you test it, spin it by hand and it will probably continue to run but once stopped it won't start again without a manual spin. (Sometimes it will as it depends on where it stops as to whether it will restart by itself.)

Could well be a bad earth. I'd have a look at the one from the battery to the chassis first.

I bought a cheap complete unit on eBay and its been fine.

If its like my 2.0 TDi it's best to get the full oil filter housing as that was the problem and is very common. The plastic deforms so a new gasket doesn't fix it.

on the end of the bulb

I find the lead solder wears away on the bottom of my bulbs due to vibration on both my cars.

A chock block really isn't a suitable item to do a repair with. Strip the insulation off on each side a little bit and splice in another short length of cable and solder it. Buy a little bit of heat shrink to wrap the joint. Soldering is pretty easy and not expensive even if you don't have a soldering iron and have to buy one. You'll probably use it again for something else and probably cheaper than buying a new cable.

I think you need a new tester to start off. I can't see how you can get 43v on a 12v vehicle.

It was more than a couple with ours.

Whats the engine. Probably the oil filter housing if a 2.0 diesel. Or oil cooler.

Sounds like a new battery needed. Terminal 30 is on the relay itself.

Is that gaffer tape to the right? If so is it collapsing and not letting air into the engine?