Snapper1725

My issue was my side ( drivers started blowing cold), thought wife altered temperature but hadn’t. absolutely done my head in, basically had dash stripped out like yourself. turned out to be flap motor on passenger side, and that was a bit of a gamble after a lot of swearing and banging my head seemed to cure fault

Watch the live data readings on temperatures and flap positions. I basically had the dash stripped, operating and watching the flaps to see how it all works. I kept getting defroster flap stuck fault every now and then but it was working fine

The brake sensor is on the inner pad on passenger side only. If you follow the Abs cable by the strut it splits to pad and abs sensor ( if pad warning fitted) If not you could just cut the cable off the pad if they are correct. Could be possible someone as joined the cable if broken the connector. That would trick the warning light. Pic shows where the cable splits in to two. The part with insulation tape on goes to abs sensor. ( new cable ran in, got a break in harness causing abs fault)

Hi I’ve a temperature fault between passenger/drivers side on a 2013 Superb. spent ages stripping/checking things etc and all seems ok with the motors/sensors ( even put two new sensors in which didn’t make any difference) You say you got the refrigerant refilled and all was ok. So will this effect the temperature if using heaters normally without aircon. My heads battered with this fault 🙄 Showing no faults on Obdeleven apart from a temp difference on live reading

Am lost 😤😤 Heaters are at different temperatures, drivers/passenger side even though set at same temp Tried all sorts today, stripped glove box out and knee air bag on drivers side etc to watch all the flaps while doing reset. All seem to be working fine Had all four temp sensors out and checked with multi metre and again all seem fine Anyone any idea what could be the cause ? It suddenly happened ( drivers side went cold) drivers side is cold or just seems to get hotter and hotter if you seem to go above 20 on dial 🤔

I’d be fearing the worst. I would imagine you’ve got bent valves, The car stalled and you’ve tried restarting it. The valves would have made contact with the pistons right away . could be worth putting a new belt on and turning over manually 1st to see if the engine turns ok

Think I’ve got this right from memory been mentioned before about a filter that clogs up but skoda don’t recognise it as a service part and doesn’t get changed when the Haldex system is due. might be worth doing a search

The wear indicator is only on the passenger side front inner pad. so it is possible to get the pads down to metal on drivers side beforehand. Another indication is if your fluid gets low ( warning light will come on) because the pads are badly. Kept telling a lad years ago to stop topping fluid up on service because when the pistons are pushed back it used to just flood out

Hi Flickyspinny ive got an issue with my car. Something happened and the heater started blowing cold ( thought wife had altered it) More into the journey I realised that something was wrong. I reset the flaps before making return trip Temp set at 22 but blowing cold misting screen up, turn up slightly (24) and it was blowing red hot ( fan on two). Then next day playing about with it noticed drivers side blowing cold but passenger warm. Does this sound like a sensor fault you had Need to see guy at work to scan it Any help appreciated cheers

I’am sure mine hasn’t got them dust covers on. When I broke the sensor trying to get it out I didn’t have to remove the hub to knock it out ( but would have to if it had that cover fitted) and that’s how I seen the abs ring was knackered.

Right I’ll try to explain it as best as I can Just got back home Done flap reset before setting off Temp set at 22 but blowing cold and misting windscreen up adjust to 24 and it’s red hot Blower on two outside temp appears to be reading ok no sudden jumps etc to strange reading Temp set at 22 used to be warm and having to turn it down Something appears to have happened this morning because I thought wife turned heater down but she hadn’t touched it 🤔 Been a pain coming home trying to juggle to keep screen clear and car at a decent temperature I also think it’s blowing different temps on either side even after doing flap reset It’s a 2ltr diesel 170bhp manual

No idea, haven’t taken notice of that. Would that cause an issue 🤔

Just travelled 2hrs temp set on 22 but one minute heaters blowing warm and then cold the next minute Very erratic 🤔 water level ok and temp gauge sitting bang on 90 Any ideas ?

Looks like some sort of mount bolt as though it goes through a rubber mounting and torqued tight

If I’ve read this properly if it’s the part on the hub you are on about I don’t think you can get it separately. It’s a hub replacement, I looked because it was the fault on my car

No it’s i just don’t seem to have any oil lights Red oil can or yellow low level when I had sump drained

Hi I think I’ve asked this before but I done an oil change today ( 2013 170bhp diesel) When I normally knock the ignition on I don’t have an oil pressure light ( is this correct ?, one is shown in hand book ) When I had the oil drained I knocked the ignition on but am sure it didn’t show the low oil level light as shown in hand book. Just doesn’t make sense not seeing the oil pressure light when you knock ignition on and going out when you start the car can anyone confirm this please Cheers

I don’t sorry. As I said I disabled mine one winter, don’t know if it had anything to do with the lights staying on but sometimes it wouldn’t start. Disabled the function and touch wood alls been ok since. Saved me buying a battery

Yes just works like your auto headlights. if it thinks it’s dark enough, they will come on when opening or stay on when locking. You can disable it if you want on the MFD

Thank you 🙏

Search for Glow Plug light flashing on this forum its got pictures I posted and a YouTube link to changing valve with what it looks like inside

Trying to do a link 😤 and can’t delete

My advice would be to replace it, I done it laying on my back on drive. Its not really a bad job if yer mechanical minded but to go through it all to clean it and put it back isn’t worth it in my eyes. It’s full of small tubes through the cooler when you split it ( that’s a gasket required) don’t know if it would be available separately. I posted some pictures on this forum when I done it

That is not the valve its a big unit ( water cooled ) that goes right across back of the engine block. unless you’ve just used that as an example

My sons was rattling on his Seat Ibiza. Its held on the same and was rotten loose like that. What I done was cut four squares out of an old thinish door mat ( felt/wire type and quite stiff) and just poked a knife through middle. put one piece either side of heat shield and refitted the spring washers. Worked a treat 👍