DrCorbyLee

You already have HIDs (xenon) headlamps? If so, surely you can only change the additional high beam bulb. From my own experience you will be better off putting new xenon bulbs in them. What no one tells you is that xenon bulb's performance decreases significantly with age. I've seen some bulb manufacturers recommend changing them every 3 years (but then they would ;-). I changed mine after 8 years / 110K miles and it was like night and day. The new standard bulbs restored what I thought were the best headlights ever when first got the car at 3 months old but had deteriorated so much was dangerous to drive at night, especially in bad weather. Adjustment to optimise aim also pays dividends, often set little too low exit the factory which self leveling doesn't correct, just keeps them level to this too low base setting. If an MOT tester spots you have LED bulbs in the headlamps then I think in theory you will be failed. Only a slight risk in them spotting this but nevertheless a risk. The fact that your mate's Vauxhall didn't throw a fault says more about their engineering than VAG's - I suspect they simply aren't monitoring that particular lamp circuit. Great for retrofitting with LED, not so great for knowing when a bulb has failed!

You'll definitely have the same issue with headlamps. Plus as far as I'm aware there aren't after aftermarket upgrade LED bulbs approved for use in the UK and LED (and HID) headlamps need to be equipped with washers and self-leveling functionality to avoid dazzling on-coming traffic. So even if you can get an LED headlamp bulb to not throw a lamp failed fault, you will very likely fail next MOT. WRT number plate light, I think you can only code out the fault on facelift cars (as these already LEDs for some lights) Have read that these are about the only guaranteed plug and play solution - https://www.kopacek.com/Skoda/SUPERB-II/Superb-II-Combi-MEGA-POWER-LED-licence-plate-lights-system-KI-R Not cheap but assume they have the resistors (and necessary passive cooling) to simulate the resistance (and henc current draw) of a traditional filament halogen bulb. Personally I can't see why you'd want to change the number plate lamp, quite a lot of trouble and cost to go to for a cosmetic change only. I've changed the reversing lamps and the lamps built into tailgate to LED and this make the car a lot more user friendly especially in dark wet winter nights and neither throw a lamp fail fault as I assume the circuits aren't monitored as not safety critical.

The £15.54 + VAT was 2 years ago and prices have obviously increased since then. Not Sure LLL would be the cheapest source of genuine bits, my VAG specialist must be getting a good deal from TPS and/or applying low margins as his sell prices are always less than you would pay from Skoda dealer parts department. Another option is Skoda Parts (www.skoda-parts.com) as even allowing for cost of UPS from CZ to UK, genuine parts come in significantly cheaper than in UK and as long the order value is less than £136, the price you see is the price you pay i.e. no custom charges or extra tax to pay despite Brexit. From my experience the quality of the standard backing plates is fine, my car is over 10 years old, has done 135K miles, gets covered in literal **** (I work a lot on sewage treatment works) and is lucky to get washed once or twice a year and I've only had to change one of these (although did both fronts at same time as fitting 2nd new set of front discs and pads)

Had my fronts done 2 years ago with genuine VAG ones and they were charged to me £15.54 + VAT each so not sure there will be a huge saving going for copy parts especially once you factor in delivery costs. And you can guarantee they will fit first time potentially saving labour (the VAG specialist I use won't consider using copy parts for anything as has had too many problems in the past and customers were less than please when savings on parts were wiped out by increased labour costs)

Sorry, pasted same link twice. This is the one with instructions

Basically you swap to Australia as country to unlock this using VCDS (or OBDeleven). The first link should help you find a local member who can help or if you search on VCDS on eBay there will likely be someone offering coding changes on a more commercial basis. The second link should provide whoever does the coding with the necessary information to implement the mod, 5 minute job

Sounds like faulty ballast on near side headlamp. If the ballasts on both sides are same part numbers then maybe try swapping them around and see if the fault follows the near side ballast. This may help

Not sure if this is of any help- And in terms of scanning for faults, has it been scanned with a tool that can interrogate all the control modules e.g. VCDS or a basic OBD scanner?

The diodes you need to search for are 1N4007. Now doubled in price to 4 quid for 50 with Amazon prime delivery but smaller quantities are available more cheaply if you search on eBay

EBay likely your friend here e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353409812433 Search RNS510 firmware for other options

7918 is V9 in plain English and was released November 2012 using data from Q1 2012. Have a recollection that this is what was on my 63 plate facelift car originally. So well out of date. Latest map that is available (and ever will be) is V17 which from recollection was released late 2019. Simplest option is to search on ebay for RNS510 map update V17. You may have problems reading a non-genuine home burnt dual layer DVD as you will be buying off eBay. Often a quick clean with a CD cleaning disc system cures the problem but you can unfortunately get into the situation where you can't access the old map on hard drive but can't load the new map into it (although can use the DVD map data directly). I had this happen on my V17 update (but not on previous 3 or 4 updates) but fortunately a quick clean with this got me out of the jam : https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000CM47KU

Could be down to faulty GPS aerial. Costly for a proper fix (part of shark's fin on roof), you can plug a cheap eBay aerial directly into the Columbus and mount under dash. Quick way is to check how many satellites you are locked to. Will sort out some more detail when I'm back at base and in my car, might be tomorrow

Even allowing for that period off the road that is still a pretty low annual mileage for a DPF Diesel. Before you go to trouble of looking at cleaning DPF, I'd think about sorting access to VAG DPF so you can see exactly the status of the DPF: Unfortunately, when I just checked Carista has gone up considerably since I got mine 4 years ago when I knew was going to be keeping my car and started to worry about DPF life. Was £10.99 on Amazon back then, now gone up to £34.99, damn COVID / Brexit / war in Ukraine / anything else manufacturers use as an excuse to make extortionate price increases! Less than 40 quid including the paid for version of VAG DPF is still a reasonable investment to put your mind at rest regarding current state of the DPF and if nothing else, the month free trial of the full version of the Carista software might also be useful to be monitoring for fault codes when this dropping out of cruise in 6th happens

Is this a diesel? I'm wondering if you're stuck in DPF regeneration which won't allow the car to hold the higher gear whilst it's trying maximise heat input for best DPF regen' efficiency? On my own car (DSG), a sure sign a regen' is active is when the car won't stay in 5th when pootling around town with cruise set at 30mph. With the DSG it simply drops you straight back to 4th soon as 5th is selected but cruise stays on at same set speed. Obviously a manual can't do that so maybe response is to drop you out of cruise. If that's correct and this is happening repeatedly, it sounds like your car could have blocked DPF and is constantly regenerating. I'd certainly be worried about the state of DPF on an 11 year old car that's only done 26K as unless the 40 miles per week average before your ownership were just from occasional long runs, it does sound like the car has maybe done lots of short journeys which are not good for a DPF equipped diesel. My own car is a year younger but has covered 126K with the majority long motorway cruises which is ideal for keeping DPF healthy although even mine is predicted to have problems just after 155K when the Oil Ash Residue (essentially the crap that doesn't burn off in a regen') will reach the theoretical loading limit for the DPF. Even if DPF regen isn't the cause of the cruise problem, I'd consider investing in the means to keep an eye on the DPF. Cheapest solution is an android app called VAG DPF which is a couple of quid from recollection (and there's a free version with limited functionality to try first so you can be 100% sure it works with your engine variant) although also needs hardware to plug it the OBD port. Cheapest "approved" hardware solution for that is the Carista dongle which also has its own diagnostic software included which, whilst isn't as powerful as VCDS, is still useful. VAG DPF allows you to monitor and log a myriad of parameters associated with the DPF and you soon get a feel for the performance of the DPF and learn the signs for when it's in a regen even without VAG DPF running. That's useful as means you can often prevent interrupted regen's simply by going once round the block rather than immediately parking at your destination.

I've no idea what particular hub is needed but this vendor would know if this is suitable https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5k0498621-front-rear-wheel-hub-with-bearing-fag-14398.html If you register for the skoda-parts.com website, you can add a single VIN to your "garage" and see whether specific parts will fit your car. And if you use the email address on homepage that goes to a UK based English speaking agent (Patrick Rice) who is extremely helpful and knowledgeable and can clarify if there are any ambiguities as to whether the parts fit your exact car. They are far cheaper than you can buy in the UK even allowing for cost of delivery and often offer full range of options from Chinese knock-offs to genuine manufacturer original parts via various OEM manufactured parts. Just need to be careful you keep order value for parts below £136 (from recollection) limit. Below that, no extra customs charges to pay, the price you see (plus carriage) is what you pay to get it door to door. Above the limit you will be hit with additional customs charges, import duty etc (not VAT, that's already paid for at source which is why there is this initial "duty free" band). So, with likely cost of two hubs might be cheaper to place two separate orders despite the second €14,52 delivery charge (which can get delivery next day if you catch it right)

That's the mechanical / manual adjustment I mentioned in my first post, hex headed plastic screws for left/right and up/down adjustment on the rear of each lamp. I tried this mechanical adjustment without using VCDS to set headlamps to correct setting mode after HID lamps were changed and despite using a laser level to try and ensure they were at correct slight downward slope, still ended up failing MOT on headlamp aim. Think unfortunately this is one of those jobs that needs the correct tools to do properly (unless you are in a position like the post @superbdreams referenced where headlamps are aiming 6 foot in front of the car and certainly does no harm to crank them up a little without risk of blinding others)

WRT Cruise set speed display, I've successfully enabled this on my car but does only work with certain combinations of instrument cluster and engine ECU versions: So no guarantee it will work on your car and only way to know is to try it. Is extremely useful though especially in setting exact speed to safely negotiate sections of motorway average and variable speed limits

Can help with #1 and #3. By default you can't display cruise set speed but it is possible to enable it in VCDS: Enable Cruise control setpoint display in MaxiDOT – https://translate.google.co.uk/translate?sl=de&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.stemei.de%2Fpages%2Fcoding%2Fskoda-superb-3t%2Fgra-geschwindigkeit-anzeigen.php&edit-text=&act=url Unfortunately, a German website but link should take you to google translate English version, the main thing is that it shows exact what controller and parameter needs adjusting which is the main thing. If you don't have VCDS, plenty of friendly Briskoda members willing to make such changes in exchange for some petrol/diesel/beer tokens - WRT adjusting adaptive headlamp levels. No way for user to do this, these essentially use the level sensors on suspension to automatically adjust the aim against a mechanically set baseline level. Needs the headlamps putting into a specific mode and then the headlamps manually adjusting and level checking with headlamp aim tool as used for MOT. Mine were done FOC at main stealers when it failed last MOT on headlamp aim having changed the HID lamps earlier in the year. It's a 5 minute job if you have all the kit and they weren't being that generous as they were also changing full set of glow plugs which certainly wasn't FOC 😞

A thought to quickly identify if your spurious temperature readings are correct or not. How you monitored the oil temperature at same time as you are seeing the low water temperature that then rises to normal 90C after a shutdown? You can view digital value for oil temperature on MFD (although you may need to enable its display in the MFD settings). With the car up to temperature (i.e. water displaying 90C), normally see oil temperatures higher than that, the difference depending on the load e.g pootling around town will be low 90s, constant 75 on motorway high 90s and possibly a little higher when under constant heavy load e.g. going up a long steady incline. If the oil is in 90s when water is in 70s in scenario you describe then you can't trust the water temperature reading. If it's similar to water temperature then you still have a genuine over-cooling issue. Still doesn't explain the low temperature / shutoff fix you describe. I wonder if the new DSG 'stat is suspect and isn't operating exactly as it should? Unfortunately, the only way to know would be to try another one. It looks like you can get the same Amazon supplied Febi 'stat for 11 quid on ebay (www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174960689427) so suggest that might be the simplest and cheapest next step.

Be worth double checking you installed the new DSG 'stat with correct flow direction. Can't 100% see how it would cause your symptoms but got to be worth a quick check. The main 'stat can cause problems. I had all the classic symptoms of DSG 'stat over-cooling when my car was still covered by Skoda extended warranty at just over 97K. Main stealer were pretty much ignorant of the DSG 'stat and reckoned my problem was something to do with secondary water pump. Never quite got to the bottom of what was the primary cause of the over-cooling, certainly wasn't the secondary water pump but they billed multiple hours (fortunately covered by warranty claim) for troubleshooting the issue including testing the main 'stat on the bench (I assume using the workshop canteen kettle to heat it and watch it open and comparing water temperature with design opening and closing temperatures) which they decided was faulty and swapped out but was still over-cooling. Spookily enough was only cured once they took my advice (thanks to Briskoda) and swapped the DSG 'stat. So if they are to be believed (possible they were just covering their arses to get everything covered by warranty?) then both my 'stats were faulty. So certainly worth considering swapping the main 'stat as it's a relatively low cost part and if you still have problems then, I guess it could simply be that you are getting spurious temperature readings. If that is the case be worth using VCDS or similar to monitor the raw temperature data around the engine to get a better feel for what is going on temperature management wise

In the nine years I've owned mine, I've had this message numerous times. Doesn't seem to be related to the status of the battery (otherwise it wouldn't have used Stop/Start to switch engine off in the first place and if system senses battery is starting to deplete when engine is off (headlights on etc) it simply restarts the car without any such message). What it looks to be related to, in my case at least, is length of time you've been sat with the engine off. Never had it appear when sat in normal traffic. Always been when sat parked up waiting to pick up kids or stuck behind motorway closure (both of which happen far too often ;-). So, it's like there is a timer somewhere in the logic controlling stop/start functionality that says if the engine has been stopped for longer than X, it's now no longer a normal stop/start and essentially the engine is now fully stopped rather than waiting to automatically restart once you release the brake pedal (with a DSG car). No idea why, there will be a reason why the programmers thought it necessary but not for us mere mortals to know why :-) So I think it's essentially an undocumented feature of the car and nothing particularly to worry about (other than the inconvenience of having to stick it in N or P to restart and then back to D to drive off). When you say "my vehicle was accepting the code" did you mean wasn't? Need to make sure you change the current serial number of battery to fool it into knowing for sure it's a new battery. Doesn't need to be from BEM code on the battery (which generic batteries don't seem to have), just increment the existing serial number by 1. Some interesting background here if you are using VCDS to code in the battery - https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/5037/ I don't have VCDS but that's what I had my friendly local VCDS owing Briskoda member do with the two new batteries I've fitted.

Certainly on my FL car the reversing lights aren't monitored for bulb failure (as I guess they aren't a safety requirement) so you can basically use any bulb that fits the holder (or even no bulb) and still not cause a build failure warning

No worries, glad to be of help. The website lets you put in VIN for 1 vehicle free of charge so you can double check the fitment, yours should be the same as mine but stranger things have happened. If you do any home maintenance on your car worth potentially adding anything like filters etc to the order because as long as you keep below the £136 duty free limit and 10kg limit of standard carriage, costs nothing extra other than cost of the bits which is always far cheaper than UK even allowing for current crap exchange rate. And they list copy and genuine Skoda options for most maintenance parts.

You've done well if those are the originals, I'm on my third set on my 63 plate car and this white worm effect is such a common problem that even Skoda themselves acknowledge that it's an inherrent problem with them and my first replacement set were done under original new car warranty. Unfortunately, you will need complete replacement centre caps. They are stupidly expensive from UK main stealers - over £60 for a set of four. Cheapest way to buy them is from skoda-parts.com. When I had my alloys refurbished last summer, I bought a set of centre caps (https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5e0601151fod-wheel-hub-centre-cap-with-a-skoda-logo-skoda-19744.html), 2 sets of wheel bolts covers and a centre console phone holder and even with the carriage was still more than a fiver less than just the set of centre caps would cost over here. Excellent service as well, no extra import fees to pay as long as total order value is less than £136 as they already charge VAT, the price you see on the website (in Euros) is the total price you pay. And with standard delivery I ordered on Thursday afternoon and the parcel made it to my local Fedex depot on the Friday Monday but then sat there until Monday morning when it was delivered. Still not bad for coming all the way from the Czech Republic. They have a UK based sales representative if you have any questions: Patrick Rice sales representative e *****@*****.tld t +44 20 8089 8075

Have a look at this thread: The auxito bulbs I fitted 15 months ago are still going strong and provide excellent illumination. Still available from eBay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185099563838 but just noticed gone up almost 50% since my purchase (but then what hasn't!). A tip. If you watch anything from auxito eBay shop you are almost guaranteed to get an reduced price offer email come through which helps to soften the blow a little.