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Jevpls

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Everything posted by Jevpls

  1. And how better tyres on the rear axle helps in this case?
  2. It doesn't mean it's right either. The one and the only one reason to act that way I've heard is - car's back may become unstable, tyres may loose grip and all that may lead to an accident. Actually it's highly unlikely if you don't drive like a maniac. Driving in a large puddle or thick snow with nice rear tyres won't do much good if you are already screwed because of poor front tyres. I usually change front tyres to rear (and otherwise) each year, so they wear evenly and there's no point of arguing which ones should be where.
  3. In this forum many people will say that the best tyres go to the rear. It's beyond my mind, why should I do that way but I usually try to put the best tyres on the front axle. Why? For the front drive car the front axle needs the best grip and best tyres for braking (you know that front brakes do the most of job). If you are planning to drive in a snow, just in case, then definetely best tyres go to the front.
  4. I see that I have previosly responded to this thread with some weird text... I've noticed that my car increases revs to ~1k in 3 cases: 1) hot weather (with AC on - needs extra power for it). If you turn AC off, the revs should decrease (not immediately, though); 2) cold weather - while engine is cold, it's normal thing. Usually goes to normal after some warming up. 3) DPF regeneration on. So, in hot weather try to avoid AC in a test drive and watch revs then. In cold weather after certain warm up revs should be in the normal range. DPF thing - well, until it's finished. At least for my car these high revs are common thing in certain situations.
  5. Thanks! That picture is quite nice one. At first I thought that there is a leak in the connection place (rubber hose & metal pipe). Seems like it's not the case. Then it seemed to be that there might be a leak between the filter tank and the cover. I even retightened the bolts - didn't help. Finally there was idea that maybe one of the hoses have some kind of crack or so. I took my car to a garage for some brake work and they took a look here as well. According to their story, the top one is leaky (yellow one if I understood them right).
  6. I agree that it shouldn't be DPF related. Must be scanned. Otherwise it will be just a guess.
  7. A friend told me just to remove the end of the hose (if the length of it is sufficient) because of it getting old and hard. I'm willing to start with the ones providing the fuel from the tank. How do I determine which ones are that?
  8. Hey, Recently I changed my fuel filter. The last one was like 2 years old and somehow my car started to act way nicer than before. Previously there was some unstable idle and some stalling from time to time. Not anymore. But that's the good thing about that. The bad thing is there is some fuel leak. My fuel filter is UFI type (take a look below. I didn't make a picture of mine but this something like that, taken from the Internet). The fuel collects on the fuel filter cover and I assume that one of the hoses is loose and it might got that during the filter change (you know, I had to move it a bit). Any ideas what to do? Should I change these clamps just in case? What about air in the fuel system then (I have no VCDS)? Maybe I can change the clamps only for the hoses that supply the fuel from the tank to the filter (by the way, how do I know which ones are they?) because they are most likely to be the ones?

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