Jevpls

Sometimes revs might rise to 1k rpm just because of the weather. Really. If it's too hot outside and AC is on - it needs power for that and revs rise. If it's too cold then revs also rise.

I come from a country where snow is a common thing for a rather long period. It's a well known thing that summer tyres ARE NOT suitable for such winter. Not at all. It doesn't matter if it's MK1 Octavia, MK2 Octavia, some sports car, 4x4 Range Rover or some old Audi A80 Quattro. I've seen quite a lot of occasions with driving with summer tyres in winter (snow came faster than the tyres were on) and usually it looks funny - wheels spinning and not moving, very poor braking etc. So, your text about being superior in the snow with the old car sounds like boasting. Maybe you hade some tyres that were more or less suitable for winter and now not. Anyway, you shouldn't expect much from car with summer tyres in snowy weather. In certain snow slush car handling might be difficult even with winter tyres.

About that oil warning. I remember once I had some problems and the car couldn't be started (the throttle flap didn't open). Starter was turning but the car didn't start. And after some while the oil warning appeared. I called the mechanic and in the end asked also about that warning. He asked - did you try to start it for a longer period? Well, yes. Such things happen. So, maybe this might be completely not related to your problem.

195/65/15 here. Actually Rycka, you are the only person I know that has put wider tyres for winter. The rule for winter is - the narrower the tyres is, the better you drive. Sure, it's for the places with snow. If you don't have that - probably it's not for you.

Not always. I had some problems went to a garage. VCDS showed some strange values for 2 of injectors, especially for one. If the car couldn't had another "Fuel rail pressure sensor" error then we all probably would think about injector and only injector fault. So, injectors were taken out and were tested and found to be OK. That sensor was faulty and VCDS showed strange values for injectors.

About glow plugs. This winter I realized that my car starts weird. At -5 it started with great juddering (idle was also very unstable) for some seconds and then it went to normal. I got the suspicion that one or more glowplugs might be out of order. One was. After change car starts smoothly. If you got 3 faulty ones then it might be worse. If the fault is really in glowplugs then it's not a big deal. They aren't expensive.

Btw, another sign of regeneration is a rather awful smell like something (like rubber) is burning. When I bought my car and visited a friend, he said - seems like you have been driving rather fast. I asked - why? He said - don't you feel the smell? Then I started worrying about some possible overheating etc. After some while I read about DPF things Actually it's a problem. Many people feel worried about strange behaviour of the car (high idle, smell, higher fuel consumption etc.) but it's the common things for DPF equipped car. Not known to the user, though.

You should scan the car for errors. That coil might appear for various reasons that can be far from the failed injectors. Maybe dirty EGR valve or whatever. When the coil appeared, the car went into so called "limp mode" - the car feels powerless (probably limited turbo action or so). Maybe it's easier to try to find somebody with the VCDS software in the neighbourhood (I think that there was some topic with VCDS owner locations). Maybe some OBDII adapter and Carista (or similar) app on phone could do the thing.

True. I remember that I had such issues but they disappeared in seconds - I didn't start even driving and they were gone.

Changed battery for my 2011 TDI recently in the usual way (disconnect the old one and connect the new one) and haven't seen any odd things after that. I didn't know even about that window reset but I think I've used them without any trouble.

Well, if the usual journey is 4 miles only then what do you expect? You get higher mpg only when the engine has been warmed up but it doesn't in 4 miles (OK, it might warm up but only in hot summer).

Usually I see high idle at 3 cases: 1) DPF regeneration; 2) hot weather (AC on. Ends when car has driven for some while. Might appear again if you are in a traffic jam and not move much); 3) cold weather (ends when engine has warmed up). So, if such situation appeared previously from time to time, it could be connected to temperature cases. If it's happening now all the time? Maybe some sensor shows wrong temperature (for example, it thinks that it's rather cold outside). That's just a guess, though.

Disappeared in the evening. Car starts fine, driveable as usually. Probably caused by rain/humid weather. Will continue to watch.

After creating the topic I started thinking hard about what was done last year during those nasty months. And I guess that this specific device was changed because I had problems with that. At least the garage guy said it was some fuel pressure regulator or so. Somehow it's a great coincidence that these problems appear only when the weather is bad (usually wet). Somehow I don't believe that fuel pressure is affected by that. Probably there are some faulty wires or so... I remember the last year and it was quite a nightmare. That mentioned thing changed, throttle as well. Checked even ECU - was found to be fine.

Hey, My wife just called me and said that she had Check engine warning on and the OBD reader showed P0191 fault (Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance). Otherwise everything was OK - car started fine and it was driveable as usually. Tried to search on the Internet but found rather different experience - one had poor wiring, another had faulty fuel tank pump etc. I guess that in my case it could be some wiring or something similar because today there's a heavy rain and last year I had some nasty experience with electronics and all that usually happened in such a weather but. I didn't solve that because everything luckily ended. But... Recently I changed the battery. OK, I've driven some 500 km after that but could that be the cause?

I agree. That's the best you can do right now. Especially if you can't return the car to the seller. In fact, you haven't removed the DPF and you have bought the car in good faith - how are you supposed to know whether there is one or not? If it fails on the MOT then you could think but it didn't last year

I've had a few such occasions with bad bulb warning but actually all bulbs being fine. I guess these things might not be connected.

Glad that everything seems to be fine. " i always thought its better for the car to drive slowly to prevent things breaking so a blow out once a month or fortnight i think is needed from now on " - well, I think that balance is what you really do. I don't like driving in rather low rpm or unnecessary driving in high rpm. Out of the city/town I try to drive at ~2k rpm. If you drive mostly short distances in city/town then DPF/EGR problems could be common - these modern diesels are designed more for longer distances.

1) It was. When the coil warning appeared then it went into the limp mode. Tried turning ignition off/on for a few times - no luck. 2) I believe so. When I googled the information it said that it's the time you have to visit the dealer because the car won't manage without assistance. 3) I believe so. If it's not too late. 4) Same here. I had the DPF light and had only a few trips. I was willing to go fishing and deal with DPF in the same time. When I was leaving the city - baaah, warning appeared. Basically be aware that at cartain amount of DPF fullness you might even not be able to do the forced regeneration. I think you shouldn't drive around and not think about some solution soon. Maybe phone the dealer or some serious garage - it's possible that the forced regeneration won't you cost a fortune. But it will be done and one problem less.

If you have this condition, no normal regeneration will happen. I believe that forced regeneration can be done only by VCDS software... be aware that if you drive for quite a long time then your DPF might get too full to even perform that (it's said that the car might burn). But... once I had your situation but the service guy couldn't do the forced regeneration. Tried it twice but both times it ended because of some reason. Finally he deleted the fault and suggested me to drive hard for some time. Did it for some time but anyway DPF light showed (without coils, though). And then I managed to clear it while driving in suggested style - at least 60kph, 2-2,5 k rpm. So, I guess that without removing the fault, you won't be able to clear the DPF.

Higher revs can be seen only when the car is on idle - you won't notice that while driving. Then you might see higher fuel consumption on the screen (for example, for my 2.0 TDI it might rise from 4,0 l/100km to 5,0). Also ~1k rpm on idle doesn't mean DPF regeneration - it also happens on cold and hot weather as well. No fault warnings will be shown if DPF manages to regenerate succesfully. I believe you can buy a OBDII bluetooth adapter and install some software in your phone to see DPF things.

If I had a brand new car then probably I would do servicing at the dealer (or another serious garage) just to have some history record. But I don't so I do the basics myself. Oil (+filter) - I have place to do it ~twice per year. Air + pollen filter usually once per year and it's a very easy thing to do. Fuel filter also is simple thing and it's done once in two years. Also things like wipers, liquids etc. Sometimes I visit a friend to do some other things - brakes (some repair works or brake fluid change) but sometimes not - depends on free time and how complex is the thing. I would never try to change the timing belt or something like that

OK, I have CR not PD car but my situation was as follows. Had problems with fuel supply sometimes. VCDS showed that 2 injectors were working fine, one worse and one was rather suspicious. Or there was a possibility that some device called fuel pressure regulator (or something like that) could be the case. Injectors were taken out and tested with a special device and they all were found to be fine. In the end the regulator was the problem. So, I think that it's possible that removing them and testing elsewhere might be needed

The fix might be or not the cause of this thing. It's also possible that DPF is simply full with ash and it could do regenerations without fix as well. The less free space is left there, the sooner it regenerates. The cause of that? Bad driving, using wrong oil, high mileage.

Depends on your engine. Could be one or could be another. Get the engine code (in the service book or on the sticker in the boot) and find out in the link below. https://catalog.mann-filter.com/EU/eng/vehicle/MANN-FILTER Katalog Europa/Vehicles/CARS %2B TRANSPORTERS/SKODA/Octavia II/2.0 TDI RS ( (1Z3, 1Z5)) BMN, CEGA, CFGB (T68979)