Taede

I'm having the same issue. both the bigger bits are broken, in my case probably because I appear to be missing one of the 3 screws holding it on to the door. If your car is LHD, you may find suitable items on ebay, if it's a UK RHD car, you're probably best off to the local skoda dealer. It's where I'll be trying my hand soon.

Whether the headlight needs to come off depends, but it does make it a lot easier. You will indeed need to (re)move the bumper in order to remove the unit. Personally, I have only changed the sidelights once, and that's when I replaced the head unit with replacements and put all new bulbs in. The sidelights were a nightmare to get at even with the units removed, but then I also have big hands. I've gotten away with removing the top screws of the bumper and then pulling the bumper outward enough to get at the hidden screw for the headlight unit, but it may be just as easy to remove all and just take the bumper off completely especially if you need to do both sides. Either way, make sure you mark the position of the screw in the bracket, as this affects the up/down angle of the headlight unit as a whole.

Me and the other half tend to visit the Bo'ness Hill climb. Here's a wee sampling of some that I took with my Nikon D3200 in September this year.

2 pictures nearly 20 years in the making. (Yes I should've cleaned the cluster)

Getting close to that 100k

I'd check the carpet just to be on the safe side. That said, your car will be around 14 years old. It could be that the insulation around a wire has worn in a way that it only shorts in certain conditions. Wiring in in the door-hinge area will be most suspect there. It could also be that electronics in the actual lock units have given up the ghost, given intermittent faults. Lastly, I'd check the convenience control unit under the passenger seat carpet, though I'd imagine the VAG would be able to tell if that's knackered. As for the fuel filler flap, you can always open the boot with your key. There's a manual fuel flap opener accessible from inside the boot. You'll find it behind the bit you also look when you need to replace a bulb on that side at the rear.

Drove behind W33 POO today in Falkirk. Big silver Mercedes probably with leather seats

After a call to the nearby skoda dealer I've found the alarm siren. Turns out it is located in the plenum chamber, wedged between the battery and the brake servo. (I have also finally ordered a new scuttle panel as I was on the phone to them anyway, meant to do that for ages) (Pics are of an RHD model, LHD models will be mirrored here) Removal necessitates removal of battery first. Once the battery is out, undo the nut circled in red, preferably without dropping it. The nut has a captive washer. Once this nut is loose, wiggle the unit as a whole out. It has a lip at the bottom which catches on the battery tray for security, so you'll need to pull and twist at the same time until it comes out. Once it is free, you can undo the plug which is located on the side facing the brake servo, with the plug facing straight down. Et voila, it is removed. Currently the battery is on the charger. I will reinstall it later and see how much it has deteriorated before trying to get it replaced under warranty.

Thanks, I will. Just to confirm though, it is located in the convenience module under the passenger seat?

My Superb seems to destroy batteries, It's had about 4 in the last 5 years. The last one has lasted less than 6 months before not holding its voltage, they seem to last less and less long. The car is mainly used for sort journeys, but not so short that the battery should deteriorate *that* quickly. The car does have a dash-cam hardwired and an aftermarket radio installed. The dash-cam feed is set to cut off when battery voltage drops below 12.4 or after 12hours after ignition is turned off, whichever comes first. The voltage just after turning off is ~12.4-12.7v, and with the engine running its 13.8-14.3v. The alternator has a fixed pulley so is always turning with the engine on. Early last week it refused to start so I used a lighter-socket voltmeter for a quick check and sure enough it was low (11.1 or something). I took the wife's car to work, and had left the car unlocked and the voltmeter on. Came back from work to find that voltage hadn't dropped at all. Locked the car, came back a few hours later to find that voltage had dropped from 11something to 9v. This may be a coincidence but I'm now wondering if its the alarm that's draining the battery when armed. Sometime last year I used a multi meter between the battery post and lead to check for currents. Iirc the current dropped to something like .01A (the smallest it can measure at the required setting) a few seconds after turning off the ignition. Pulling the fuse for the dash cam or radio made no difference. I did not check for what happens if I lock the car, I shall have to see if I can do that sometime Once I charge the battery I'm going to lock the car without arming the alarm (I believe using the key in the door lock achieves that) and see what happens. Is the alarm integrated in the convenience module under the passenger seat? How would I go about finding out why this drainage is happening if this is indeed the cause? PS: the car should not be suffering from water ingress. The filter area was sealed before I got the car, and I sealed the door panels a long time ago. There is no sunroof.

The MK1 superb was never sold as an estate version. Given that you've owned the car since 2010, yours is probably a MK2. You'll have more chance of an answer in the MK2 subforum

Thanks, I may just leave them out. The front ones seem solid enough and can't really go anywhere. I'll try the rear ones once I fix the window regulator on the rear passenger side.

I've decided to put some wind deflectors on my Superb, and I have a few questions regarding how to fit them Theyve come with these clips and an instruction sheet. The clips have a small punch in one side, whilst the other side is smooth. Presumably this is to lock them in place. Does it matter whether this notch faces into or out of the car? Here's a quick shot of a dry-fitting of the front one:

I couldn't say for sure, I've only ever had a Mk1. It might be better to ask this in the Mk2 subforum here

I was about to post, but then noticed you mention its a 2012 superb. This forum is for the mk1 superb, which was produced from 2002-2008. Is yours a MK2 perhaps?

Not sure its possible. It would probably require replacing the wiring loom. The symphony's steering wheel controls are connected through the 3part connector thats plugged in in the same place as the 2 main audio connectors. (C1/2/3 in the below image, I cannot remember the pins offhand) Iirc, the DX navi has a separate non-compatible plug for steering wheel controls.

I've only dealt with halogen units, but access to the rear should be similar if not the same. There is a bit of air intake ducting which should just pull off (no clamps or anything). Just pull up at end closest to the nose of the car, and then forwards the nose to pull it off of the air filter housing. This should give you some working space behind the light unit. If you need more space, you can take the front bumper off, and unscrew the 5 bolts that hold the unit in place (2 at the top, 2 facing the same direction at the bottom back, and one hiding behind the bumper each). Make sure you mark the last one, as these can affect height adjustment.

I'll be storing my Superb off road for a while at a colleagues home. The main battery will be disconnected, but I want to make sure the alarm won't go off a few days after I park it up when it turns out the alarm has a separate battery that has drained. What is the best way (short of snipping wires) to make sure the alarm won't go off after I disconnect the main battery? The car is a 2002 Mk1 Superb 1.9Td comfort.

Date and time could be because the battery power and ignition wire are mixed up. This means that rather than simply getting a signal to go turn off, all power is cut instead, and the headunit loses all settings (probably the remembered radio stations too). If your Mk1 Fabia has the older style iso connectors (2 separate plugs for basic functionality, possibly 3rd or more for cd-changer or other additions), VAG swapped battery feed and ignition compared to the standard. It also means the radio will receive all its power through your ignition, which may not be up to the task. Best to remedy this sooner rather than later. Depending on the radio, you may be able to get a wiring harnass for your brand of stereo to connect to your car's connector. Worst case, you could get an extension for the one plug that contains these 2 wires, and modify that to cross them over. If your car is new enough to be equipped with the newer fakra/quadlock connector (single big square), this does not apply. If this is the case, something else is causing your issue.

'97 Citroen Xantia 1.9Td estate (My only car I owned in the Netherlands, before moving to Scotland) '98 Citroen Xantia 2.1Td estate '94 Citroen Xantia 1.9Td hatch '96 CItroen Synergy 1.9Td '03 Citroen C5 2.0HPi hatch '02 Skoda Superb Pd130

Have you had it hooked up to VCDS? Faultcodes or live reading when braking at <20mph may shed some light on what is happening. Alternatively, take it back to the place that fitted the bearing to have the abs and brakes checked.

Can't be of much help without more information. Do you have any paperwork or a link to the item you bought?

So I came across this today. Didn't want to beep horn, though they seemed oblivious to me flashing lights. Whilst waiting at the roundabout, the car that's behind them then tried the same also to no avail that I could make out. Surely that car has a 'boot open' warning? I can only hope they were just trying to find a spot to safely close the tailgate.

It should be on the floor just in front of the passenger front seat underneath the carpet. Afaik it has not moved during the Mk1's production run.

I assume you're talking about the Convenience Control Module which lives under the passenger seat carpet? I'd imagine disconnecting this module will have the similar symptoms as a wet one, most notable no interior lights when doors are open (correct me if I'm wrong). Either way, this thread may be of use. It might be worth checking underneath the carpets anyway, given that you've only just bought the car. Couldn't comment on the DX system, as my car came with a different head-unit. Easiest way to check is to check whether the battery goes flat at a similar rate with the radio disconnected/fuse removed. Good luck with your new ride.