SurreyJohn

Doesn't the Kamiq have different pressures front and rear in some scenarios (loaded etc). Are there three pressures on the sticker (either in fuel cap, or on a door jamb), and are they being set consistent with the usual load (number of passengers and luggage). However if you are losing a few psi every few weeks (and I mean a genuine loss, not measuring at different temperatures or a different gauge each time), then suggests tyres are not mounted well on the rims and fully sealed or valves are leaky etc. I would be inclined to stop looking for a fault in measuring system and looking at cause of pressures changing. Do the tyres have different tread depths (if so swap them around, you want tread depth as close as possible on both sides of each axle.

Correct, the on the road price includes the VED, the VED threshold is calculated by excluding this. But it does include price of any factory fitted options. Those that are in the accessory catalogue, can be fitted by the dealer and invoiced separately (even if fitted before collecting), it is silly to have something like a factory fit spare wheel if it just takes you over the £40k. Get it as an accessory on different invoice and it doesn't count towards VED. Here is link to everything that can be an accessory. https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/d0ba0841-dcb0-462f-9c23-21fe72de6185

The VED date is upon first registration, not initial order date. It is based on list price (& options) at registration date, not any negotiated price if different to list price. It is another fiscal drag back door tax rise, as £40k threshold hasn't been increased with inflation. Your price with the dealer is locked, (although might have small print clause that this doesn't apply to VED and VAT), dealer might absorb the extra first year VED, but will be stuck with the extra £390 for next 5 years.

Skoda no longer sell Scout version in UK, or a 1.5 4x4 https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/c63f4efb-a760-4a48-931f-baad88d42aa6 Whilst not directly relevant, always need to be aware if you get a niche model, availability of spare parts might be harder to get or more expensive. Won't really be a problem where same parts are used in other models, but can be problem if you damage some obscure trim part and need a replacement.

If you are looking at a 2019 1.5, make sure it has had software updates (although DSG versions never had same kangaroo problems of manual) All the 4x4 versions need a Haldex service around 38-40k miles, and those will be fitted with wet box DSG that needs fluid change. Apart from obvious that they were serviced on time (not more than 1000 miles late) and no visible damage, also worth checking the tyres for same date code and wear. How tyres are treated is often good indicator. If you ever come across a car with 4 random tyres then bet your life only minimum spent on maintenance when absolutely necessary. Have a look under boot floor, check if it has spare tyre and general cleanliness, will also give you a clue if it has had hard life or not. Not sure if you can still do it, but Skoda used to offer a free check for eligibility for all in one servicing, even if you had to buy it, always get check booked in straight away, that way if there are any problems you can go straight back to seller and ask for them to be rectified or discount to get them fixed (or even reject it if multiple faults).

Does the O4 have same hidden headrest release button as other VW group cars. About 50-60mm down from top of seat, in centre at back of seat (sit on back seat and you will be facing it), but it is under seat fabric, so just press there until you find it, using other hand to lift headrest.

235/50 R19 is too big for a Karoq 4x4 versions (with their raised ground clearances) can take slightly bigger tyre than the 2wd versions, but not as big as you are suggesting. This is official Skoda wheels catalogue, as you will see Karoq rims are 16, 17, 18, 19 inch, if you want comfort go for lower sizes, (and tyres will be much cheaper in those common sizes). But of course, don't have to have Skoda wheels, could fit alternatives if you can get good deal. https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/639a0118-4da5-446b-a786-86e1f789b57b

The 18 inch take 235/55 R18 on 7J ET 43 rims 17 inch use 215/65 R17 on 7J ET40, but the official Skoda wheel brochure (linked) also has Nanuq with winter tyres, these are 6.5J ET38 Of course don't have to buy Skoda wheels. https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/639a0118-4da5-446b-a786-86e1f789b57b I am finding I am using my winter tyres for a longer season, from late October until at least start of May, now I live in more rural area, as they deal with muddy field run off and rutted country roads so much better even at +10 to +15c than the summer tyres which are dreadful in wet below about +10c

I have just switched back from my 16 inch winter wheels to the 18 inch car came with, on resurfaced roads can't tell difference, but the 18s are lot more rumbly on most country roads and don't ride the imperfections as well. Photo of my Arona with 16 inch wheels on (rims are Borbet Y which fit perfectly with same bolts, no adaptors). Second photo is for comparison to 18 inch summer tyres

Although the different wheel and tyre sizes vary by a few mm as @Carlston has pointed out, also bear in mind that new tyres have more tread depth, a worn tread will be 4-5mm less (which is 8-10mm less diameter). So exact diameter will depend on tread depth, and worn tyres are around 1-1.5% different which affects speed by about 1mph at motorway speeds.

Not all the wheels will fit, the smaller models (Fabia, Scala, Kamiq) use 100mm PCD (bolt spacing), wheels for these won't fit the 112mm spaced bolts of the Karoq. You need wheels with 57.1mm centre bore (most VW group cars are), 5 bolt 112 PCD and an ET of about 43-45 ( this is offset, how far out the bolt plate is from being in line with middle of wheel), being couple of mm out is not much if that is all you can find. Look at VW, Audi, Seat and Skoda, can always change centre cap badges

Further info on new generation Will be petrol, diesel, mild hybrid and plug in hybrid https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/skoda-world/first-taster-a-glimpse-of-the-superb-and-kodiaq/

Skoda Storyboard carrying first glimpse of of Superb mk4 premiere later in 2023 will be built in VW plant in Bratislava, Slovakia Maybe the mods can move this later to mk4 section when it is created https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/skoda-world/first-taster-a-glimpse-of-the-superb-and-kodiaq/

You have been told half the story, at the front can adjust the tracking (are they pointing exactly forward when steering wheel is centred). That is usually what doing 2 front wheels, just the tracking. A full 4 wheel alignment should check lot more, camber, toe in etc. Lots more to do, and needs someone fully trained to get it right as aligning in multiple directions. If you have had no problems at back, I wouldn't do a 4 wheel align. Tyres wearing on a shoulder, might be wrong pressure, but roundabouts usually cause it, typically affects front left. That's why it is a good idea to swap tyres front-back around 8-14k miles to even out the wear. Probably wouldn't go Bridgestone for an all season tyre, the Michelin cross climate 2 tends to be expensive, personally I would choose Goodyear vector 4season gen 3, or Vredestein Quattrac.

On infotainment go into car, then settings, then should get long list. You can go into each one and change them or turn them on and off (by touching the tick box). I would suggest everyone scrolls down the list and looks at each one when first get the car, even if it takes 20 minutes (some categories even have multiple items, so got sub-lists to work through too). Good chance some settings are not to your preference. The other bonus of doing this is might not have even been aware that the item could be changed until you find it in the list.

My hunch is the accelerator pedal. Not sure if it same on that model, but there is a potentiometer (an electrical device) that pressing the pedal moves. Sounds to me like it has short circuited and instead of getting a build up as pedal is pressed, going to full power whatever the pedal position. Might also be pedal and electrical linkage is broken, so as pedal comes up not reducing power.

All season tyres have become more popular, remember we also had cold first half of December with many places seeing -8c or lower, so stocks are very low. Supply of tyres in UK is a fraction of Europe volume, factories will be geared to make summer tyres in first few months of the year ahead of the season, as logically not much point making a winter tyre in March that might not be bought for 6 months. What I think has happened is that production volumes of all season are too low, so stocks have not been replenished so prices are still high. It also takes few weeks from factory to stockists, will hopefully see a change in availability from May-June when production of summer tyres is reduced and factories can switch some production over. In 225/40 R19 size, there is a limited choice, probably going to be paying £175-220 for quality all season tyre. Unfortunately Skoda seems to have had fad in recent years of fitting silly (unpopular) tyre sizes which cost more.

On the assumption you want to stick with the large 19 inch rims. Will try and explain what to do in informative way. 1) As already mentioned check pressures, if there are 3 quoted (see label on door frame or inside fuel cap) use the lowest, not the Eco value, or heavily loaded value. The higher pressures make tyres firmer (thus rougher riding on poor quality tarmac which seems to have become common in parts of UK). 2) Turanza is Bridgestones more touring biased tyre, these are going to be softer than anything Sporty (which Bridgestone call Potenza) or Eco biased (which reduce fuel consumption by being fairly hard, firm is effectively opposite of comfort). So you already have a softer tyre, but clearly you or your wife wants even more softness. So when you come to change the tyres avoid anything sport or Eco biased. 3) Temperature, majority of people forget about this, basic physics will tell you rubber gets hard when cold and is more soft and squidgy when warmer. Modern tyres are made of compounds, and have other materials in the mix eg silica. The more elaborate compounds can widen ideal tyre operating temperature range. Cheaper tyres can't afford to use expensive compounds so will never be as good outside ideal temperature range. Also simpler compounds won't be as good as wear resistance (there is trade off between soft enough to be grippy, but firm enough not to wear quickly) 4) Seasonality. The tyres you have are officially summer tyres, there are rumours in recent years have been formulated to do well in WLTP emissions test (which I think are done about +23c). You don't have to be a genius to know this is well above UK average (the long term temperature you get in a cave in UK is nearer +12c so in blunt terms, although the factory fit summer tyres to new cars to suit the test, they don't suit UK climate (or more strictly only really suit UK weather from about April to mid November) 5) In last few year just about every major tyre manufacturer, have introduced all season (all year) tyres, these tend to have ideal temperature of -5c to about +25c (will still work with diminishing effectiveness outside this range). So are ideal for UK climate. Modern summer tyres (since WLTP testing) often have marked fall off in wet grip below about +10c (because they become harder in cold, as above). Big problem as rain in UK is often cold (and UK rain is normally below +10c for around 8 months a year, because clouds are cold at thousands of feet up. Putting all this together, if you pick a summer tyre, will be rubbish in cold rain, and very hard in colder weather, so unsuitable if finding tyre too firm. So pick an all season tyre, and try and get one that is less summer biased as will be bit softer (and still be soft colder months). Note that most all season tyres are directional, (will have 2 for left and 2 for right, same tyre, but they are mounted opposite way on the rim, can swap them front-back, but not change sides). I would suggest swapping them front-back around 11-14k miles (I think this is actually recommended in the handbook, not that many actually read it), will even out your tyre wear. One final piece of advice, all season tyre prices tend to jump around mid-late September, when everyone remembers weather is about to get cooler, and demand booms. So order them before price rise time (even if fitting few weeks later). Stick a reminder on your calendar for early September now.

Of the 3 car carrier ships at Emden few days ago, one has gone to Jacksonville (USA), other 2 called at Southampton, one then gone to Panama, other one of which Mallaca Highway now heading to Dublin, So none bringing VW group cars to UK There are now more vehicles carriers at or approaching Emden Elbe Highway, Weser Highway, San Martin, Siemens Confusius

Try and get a print out or pdf copy of the electronic service record. I have not heard of a VW fleet car with 130+k miles, would normally replace them lot lower mileage, so I am bit suspicious. Unfortunately if can't get any evidence of when things were done, often have to assume haven't been, or was while ago so possible overdue.

Sounds like fan running, possibly had been doing some emissions cleaning The other possibility is thermostat opened and some water circulated where there had been airlock (which explains the trickling). When it is cold check the coolant level and top up if required.

On the infotainment, go into car and settings, then go into each item in turn, scrolling down. Choosing your options. Probably take you 15 minutes, but only have to do it once. There might be some surprising settings (my car was delivered with a safety system off, either blind spot monitoring or front radar, I forget which). Had I not been through list I wouldn't have known.

What make and type (brand and name) does your car have ? My car (not an Octavia), I managed to do that with a 1.0tsi DSG (in normal not sport) when damp and cold. I subsequently bought set of winter wheels and tyres which I use early November until late April, never been able to spin them since. You are using wrong tyres for the weather. The factory usually fits Eco biased summer tyres, which due to their compounds designed to save fuel in WLTP tests (at warm temperatures), tend to be far to hard, and poor in the wet below about +10c. They are not all year tyres.

I have 2 possible thoughts. 1) As it is a 4x4 the Haldex needs full servicing (including cleaning the mesh sieve) 2) One of your wheels (probably at back if not feeling it through steering) is not perfectly balanced (close but not true), potentially one of the rims is not true and has slight buckle (but so slight not obvious looking at it)

Skoda Storyboard has a link to the new model portfolio preview presentation at 7pm CEST, (6pm UK) today, 25th April https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/skoda-world/lets-explore-2023/ Mentions 3 new electric models by 2026, but no idea what will be revealed (or timescale) when any of these will be delivered to customers