SurreyJohn

Try the spare parts Department, the parts numbers are in the brochure In theory should be able to give you a price and check availability for each. Might be sales teams were offering limited selection of expensive ones. Oddly Skoda sometimes has 2 parts numbers, one for accessories, one for spares, for same item, and prices are different. Might also find prices are different if you drive to Germany or Italy etc. Obviously not worth it for small difference but if it is €100 per wheel then might be.

Do you have one of the goes to sleep if not moved type keys. presumably if just sitting there in parked car will shut down

Our roomster had similar problems with boot lock, ours wouldn't unlock, and lots of other electrical gremlins, including rear wiper randomly going when starting. Happened when car was about 8 years old. Tailgate wiring loom was changed and everything worked ok after that. The wires are prone to breaking and causing shorts, especially at the hinge in tailgate. Tailgate wiring seems to be a weakness on roomsters.

So looking like it is nearer 210,000km (about 130,000 miles) No specific time interval, but supposed to be inspected at major services for wear which will guide, and estimates seem to be 10-15 years, so let's use about 12 years as prediction Slightly over double the old suggestion of 5 years or 60,000 miles Which suggests realistically only really need to start worrying about the replacement cost at >8 years or >90,000 miles

@Gabbo This link has all the wheels with photos, it is 2022 version, but I have never found a 2023 version. https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/639a0118-4da5-446b-a786-86e1f789b57b Personally I think the black wheels look better than the silver colours when you have smaller wheels and bigger winter tyres.

I suspect you will find that if you reverse towards a wall or your garage door, when you get a red, if you stop car immediately, and handbrake on, you will discover still about 0.5m (19 inches) before you hit it. It is useful to check this so know how much reserve distance you have.

No, there were two different brochures, the June version has changes, eg L&K spec marked as only available from stock. There is no change of spec, a replacement model, Kodiaq mark 2 is on its way, so not likely to get significant further updates to old model.

I don't think one exists. The strap type ones shouldn't be fitted because the tailgate hinges and spoilers are not designed for the loads. And even if you fitted one, would need to plug in a trailer light board because otherwise would obscure some lights or numberplate which is illegal in most (possibly all) European countries. That leaves fitting to the roof rails, or to the towbar. The only other option is to put back seats down and carry bike inside.

If the battery was fully charged, and down to 11.9v in morning then probably not the battery failing, but something draining it. Common ones are boot light switch bent or faulty so light stays on, interior light similarly staying on (try turning off manually at switch instead of doors setting, to check), something plugged in (usb or lighter socket, or socket in boot), a cable fault (broken insulation) causing something to turn on etc

Which battery has been replaced, the normal 12v one, or the mild hybrid 48v version. Sorry if I am misunderstanding but reads like main battery was changed, but you have low voltage in hybrid battery. I thought this charged up from the electric motor becoming an alternator during regenerative braking. Was this automatically disconnected during the accident (it is like fuel cut off, as don't want motor still running after the crash). It sounds to me like hybrid system is still isolated or faulty and shutting down the car. I know some things are triggered if airbags deploy, and I wonder if your crash repairers only fixed fuel cut off and not mild hybrid motor cut off too (or whatever bit that controls it is called) I suspect the advice about changing alternator was wrong as they didn't understand you had a mild hybrid system which hadn't been fully reinstated. I am also wondering if changing the battery was also required.

I don't understand the opening post, never been R line trim on Karoq I have similar 1.0tsi DSG on our Arona, and never had problems pulling away (although I always turn off start-stop), only ever use S mode for overtaking. Front sensors are £415 option on Kamiq Monte Carlo, if Op wanted them why didn't he/she specify them Who gets told to swap cars from a fictional spec. Feels like a troll post to me, especially as all done in bold type.

Use Goodyear ultragrip 9+ on our Arona (obviously not in mid summer), and after 3 winters (and about 18k miles) still got well over 6mm of tread on all 4. Brilliant tyres in cold rain, frost, and good in snow too (got me around a big jam on A46 and M5 via some untreated snow covered hilly roads through Cotswolds).

They are both optional, you do not need to buy them if you can live without them (and you probably didn't have them before you bought the car, so might not miss them)

@Toolie Sometimes people forget what a warranty is, it is form of insurance. The fact that it is pushed for sale is because it makes good profit for the seller. In other words the premiums far exceed the payouts. You will know how well you have maintained your vehicle, if you have never abused it, stretched service intervals, skimped on replacing parts with advisories etc then you are at much lower risk of failures and breakdowns. But there is no risk assessment (unlike car insurance) where your premium is lower, it's flat fee, so if you have maintained it properly then subsidising those who don't. And of course on average your claim will be less than premium (because part of the premium covers providers costs and admin) You need to decide if you want to pay for peace of mind for rare big claims, whilst knowing statistically premiums will be more than ever likely to claim back on average. On average will save by not taking it out.

A drawbar trailer would have wheels at both front and back, not going to find these for cars, they are farm trailers and truck trailers 18.3 is standard trailer or caravan with wheels roughly in middle, showing as max 1500kg (doesn't matter if it is single axle or double axle, but wheels would be near middle, not in each corner 18.4 is unbraked trailer (usually small camping and general purpose trailers), max 670kg (loaded weight), lower as only have car brakes to stop it. 19 is the max weight on tow hitch (sometimes called nose weight), this is because trailers are slightly heavier at front than back. But many would say 50kg is better max.

It is a bit of an odd one, the exclusion is brake fluid, not the changing of the fluid which is a recommended service requirement every 2 years. Therefore could argue have to pay for the new fluid, but not the Labour time to do it under the all in one (where cost of doing the service is included). The wording is quite loose, especially as the standard major service includes remove wheels and check brakes (per Skoda schedule as quoted by @toot above), so a chunk of the required labour is included anyway. It should at the very least be cheaper than stand alone job, because no one will put wheels on, then take them off again to do both jobs separately.

Quite common. The float doesn't really move until about 70-100 miles if tank is filled, then will drop. If you ever put in few litres (forget amount, but upto about 5 litres) doesn't always notice the change either, and shows same as before, when you restart.

You are correct that it seems a bum price compared to Europe, in Germany Fabia range starts at €15,350 (£13,165) for easy spec (basic entry spec) But to get a spec that is similar to SEL with DSG gearbox then your deal looks quite good to me. Not quite sure what you get with alloy and tyre insurance, but if excludes kerb and pothole damage then not much more than virtually worthless marketing gimmick, I would try and get it swapped to the 5 year factory warranty.

Skoda storyboard mentioned month ago the new replacement on article about Enyaq L&K which will be in new Superb and revised Kodiaq https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/emobility/enyaq-lk-technical-upgrades-and-extra-elegance/ The full press kit info on revised Kodiaq is here, (info on new Superb not yet released), but fair to assume much of the infotainment and controls etc will be same so this will give approx preview of Superb 4 equipment https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/press-kits/the-all-new-skoda-kodiaq-press-kit/

Details of new Kodiaq engines now released https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/press-kits/the-all-new-skoda-kodiaq-press-kit/ 1.5 mild hybrid tsi 150hp 2.0 tsi 204hp with 4x4 2.0 diesel 150hp 2.0 diesel 193hp with 4x4 all these with 7speed DSG also 1.5 Plug in hybrid 204hp (combined petrol and electric) 6speed DSG all engines meet euro 6e standard

Lots more information Skoda has released press kit on revised Kodiaq https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/press-kits/the-all-new-skoda-kodiaq-press-kit/ Sections on interior and exterior, engines, safety and connectivity etc.

Wouldn't bother with latest summer tyres, unless you swap to winter tyres November-April, they are simply too summer biased nowadays, since all season tyres have been introduced and become common (think about it, why would tyre manufacturers want them to seriously overlap with their new all season ranges). You will find wet grip falls off rapidly below about +10c (and we get lots of cold rain in UK), by time temperature has fallen to +5c they are often skittish in wet, and on rare occasions of snow will be useless and leave you stranded. Look at some of the recently launched all season tyres (probably will be available July or August), from Continental, Pirelli, Bridgestone). Tend to hear good things about Vredestein Quattrac, Goodyear vector Gen3, Falken AS210 too Many tyre websites now let you filter on season, but some UK sites default to summer as that is what manufacturers fit to be tested for WLTP at about +23c (UK average is nearer 12c the same as you get it caves etc)

I have done it 4 years ago on our roomster, not difficult. The replacement is similar size to jam jar lid, seemed to be a standard unit that fitted multiple small VW group cars from polo to Audi A1, from memory I ordered it from an internet motor factor, was about £8 delivered The hardest part, was I needed a very long handled screwdriver to undo very tight screws at back of glovebox as couldn't get good enough grip with a standard one as handle was bumping edge of glovebox opening.

Also remember since the mk3 Octavia was built, tyre manufacturers have generally introduced new summer tyres with formulations that are more summer biased so as not to overlap with their new all season (all year) tyres. So unless you change to winter tyres November-April, go for all seasons as you will find latest summer tyres tend to have grip that falls off rapidly below +10c in wet (and we get cold rain in UK), are often skittish by +5c, and completely useless and will leave you stranded on rare days of snow. Modern summer tyres are often also poor on damp salted roads at low temperatures. Many tyre websites now allow you to choose season, so just filter on all season.

Wouldn't bother with latest summer tyres, unless you swap to winter tyres, they are simply too summer biased nowadays, since all season tyres have become common. You will find wet grip falls off rapidly below about +10c (and we get lots of cold rain in UK), by time temperature has fallen to +5c they are often skittish in wet, and on rare occasions of snow will be useless and leave you stranded. Plenty of all seasons in 225/40 R18 Look at some of the recently launched ones (probably will be available July or August), from Continental, Pirelli, Bridgestone). Tend to hear good things about Vredestein, Goodyear vector Gen3, Falken AS210 too